Delidding my 7700K

If you would have told me I was going to be doing this a month ago I would have though you were crazy but here I am with Liquid metal and a delidding kit.



I plan on following this video.



After reading a bit I'm going to do two things different.
1. I don't wan to use superglue.
2. I'm only going to put LM on the CPU and rub off the extra from the brush on the heat sink.

I was thinking of leaving some of the old glue on and softening with some alcohol hoping that it would re stick. I read where someone just put it back on and it re stuck itself without the alcohol.

Any thoughts?

@bloodhawk @Talon @Galm

 

As long as your careful it should be doable.

I would guess the user with the most delids is @woodzstack so maybe he would have some advice.

 

Sweet.
Do not use super glue. It's a pain to remove later on. Just in case.

All my delidded processors , and the ones I did for my friends are floating ( not stuck back) .
The socket clamp applies more than enough pressure to hold everything in place , even during travel. Just put some electric tape / kapton tape/ nail polish, on the exposed contacts around the die. Just as a precaution.

Also remove every single bit of the old glue, it will cause uneveness and might prevent the die from making proper contact.

As for CLU on the CPU , its always good practice to use as little as possible and never too much. You can always add more, but removing is much more of a hassle.

Also there is a difference between mainstream delids in bulk and person delids. With the former you want to glue it down to avoid someone else messing things up. With a person delid, you can leave it un glued for future options. Like an after market IHS (Something me and a bunch of others have just started using - http://imgur.com/a/36Ger). Also maybe in the future if you want to change from CLU to a better Liquid Metal TIM, things will be much easier.

I carry my floating IHS DM1 to work and back almost 2-3 times a week on the metro, and it never had a single problem, obviously to be perfectly safe (and since i prefer Conductonaut over CLU) im using traditional paste on the IHS and LM only on the die.

End of the day, please be careful and take your time.

 

I literally have a delid hour everyday... I grab a tea and get to my office and delidd under the spot lights...

I always dab a weak glue or some super glue on a corner or two... or where the previous glue was, after removing it, it won;t stick tightly, and can easily be removed, in cases where I relid permanently I use an epoxy.

if this is your first time, make sure to observe the behaviour of the liquid metal afetr it's heated up or after being squished by the IHS once back in contact. If you put too much, it will splat out everywhere and roll all over the place like a hot pocket on a skating rink... (sorry I'm Canadian..)

 

Not very good to use Epoxy or Super glue , unless you are ABSOLUTELY sure that you wont take it apart ever again. Both of them easily come off of the IHS, but they stick to the PCB real hard. Speaking from personal experience.
It was so hard to scrub it off, not to mention risky, i had to sand the glue off until it the PCB was flat.

 

super glue is molecularly very small and seaps into things. I wouldn't recommend it either. I use it on the glue thats already there a tiny bit, because it won't spread much and thats where it would hold well, but I remove the glue from the IHS always too.

 

It's my first time using CLM and de lidding. I was able to remove the IHS easily, it popped off. I removed all the old glue, taped off the areas and applied a small amount, it wasn't very smooth though, on either of the parts, I'm almost worried I didn't put enough. I applied a small amount gasket material to the IHS and put it back in the base and screwed the relidding tool on. Tonight ti should be dry enough to install and we shall see how it goes.

This is what I used.

 

You can just place it in the socket after a couple of hours. It will easily dry inside the socket it self.
And i have used this one in the past -

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002UEN1U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also if you do decide it place it in early, just make sure it doesn't slide around, hold with your finger while clamping down.

 

knoww hat would be easy to clean and stick okay - contact cement

 

Where did you get these? I would like one. I used CLU inside my chip and outside as its not as viscous as other Liquid metals, Will open again in a few days and see if any of it leaking/spreading around. Still annoyed with my wonky heatsink

 

http://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=322_323&products_id=4381

 

is there a thread about these? results etc? they look great can imagine they'd help a lot with the poor contact on my heatsink.

 

I put the CPU back in and gave it some tests. I think my idle temps went up a degree or two but my load went down about 10. I'll try to to gather some screenies of data to post. I used the last of my Thermal Grissly Kyronaut, if I had more I would have made a slightly larger dot. I'll have to order some more and re apply. At least I didn't fry anything, that would have been a shame to receive my 1080Ti next week and not have a rig to put it in.

 

http://www.overclock.net/t/1622289/bitspower-intel-ihs

More of a desktop thread, but you will find me and Fox there as well.

Idle temps shoudnt being going up like that. You sure you did not use too much glue to seal it back?
That is one of the reasons i leave it un glued, is because it avoid these uncertainty issues and even un evenness sometimes.

 

I definitely didn't use too much glue, I put some on a plastic card and used the pointy stick that came with the delidding kit to apply thin spots around the IHS, there were several gaps too. My CLM wasn't a shinny pool like on some of the videos, it had brush strokes in it, the coverage seemed good enough though. I wish I had taken a picture of the application. I ran realbench again and the temps at load are in the upper 60's and peak lower 70's before the delid they were in the upper 70's peaking in the lower 80's. Below is a comparison, the averages are off because I hit the reset on after the benchmark started..

 

This is how mine looked with Condutonaut -

 

I had less then that, Perhaps I'll redo it all. It looks like you put a wider patch on the IHS, aren't you concerned about it netting onto those 4 spots close to the core?

 

I dont have that much excess tbh, the surface tension keeps it in place. I took it apart the other day and it went no where. Maybe it will if i fling the laptop far onto the bed or something. But otherwise its not going anywhere.
Also if you look at the condition of the 6700k i have you will understand how concerned i am xD - https://onedrive.live.com/?authkey=!AD_Q30y1AKPFWkU&id=583FD1D87B63EFD1!6826&cid=583FD1D87B63EFD1

Even then im super careful, and kind of know the limits by now, of what stays in place and what doesn't. Sealing the IHS for one, is not necessary, but it is always better to cover up those contacts. Just in case.
By not resealing , i avoid any and all unevenness concerns.

 

That is interesting, I think I will reapply it at a later date, first I'll see if I can get to 5.1, tomorrow when I'm no so jet lagged I'll try to up the voltage to get there, if my temps are ok I may just keep it as is. Now it's time to see how the temps are after a few rounds of BF1.

Thanks again for all the help.

I just couldn't resist. I just ran Realbench stress for 15 minutes, peak temperature was 76, it was 90 before, a definite improvement.

 

nice !

I will be honest with you, I've never seen less then 20C improvement in a 7700K.. usually 25C+

so you might have more room to go !

 

When I get my Kyronaut from Amazon I'll remove the CPU cooler and see if I had enough paste, I think it may have been too little, if it look normal I'll re do the delid.

 

with normal grease, you want to make 100% perfect contact but go as thin as possible. The grease is there to fill in microscopic gaps on a molecular level almost. Replacing Air thats caught on the surface due to surface tension and jammed inbetween the IHS and CPU etc.. and heatsink etc.. the paste moves and draws that away, allowing much better conductivity thermally. Grizzly pastes should almost be see through if you have an ideal perfect setup (if everything is perfectly flat)

 

You guys always have me doubting my work lol. I've delidded and I'm happy with results but I'm wishing I'd cleaned off the glue from delid and I'm wanting to try the simple pressure under heatsink mod to get better contact. Very tempted to get one of those custom IHS just for the need not to glue down IHS and the chance of improving heatsink contact with it being thicker. I'm worried my CLU is all over inside my IHS and my GPU now lol. I'm taped up and don't think I used too much LM at all but everytime I see someone's pics of theirs I doubt my own

 

I used the pea method but now that I think about it I had spread it out before, tomorrow it should arrive and I will re paste properly.

 

I delidded my i7-7700k straight out of the box. I chose not to brush the CLU onto the IHS though, only the die itself. Reattached the IHS via high temp silicon. Then I used Gelid GC Extreme on the top of the IHS to the liquid cooler.

 

How were the results?

 

Well I redid my delid, the result weren't so good, my temps were higher and I can't run the OC I had before.
Here are the shots of what I had when I removed the ihs and the reapplication. I have core differences as well as higher temps.

 

Try without glue. Also polish down the edges from IHS who hit the PCB for better contact between die and IHS.

 

I'll give that a try, does it look like I had the right amount of TIM?

 

Could be. Test with a bit more. If the results is still bad, try what I suggested. Remember electrical tape over the golden contacts near the die if you put on more LM.

 

I polished the IHS a bit and removed the ol TIM and replaced it the temps are better but not quite like the first shot. I'll have to see what I can do to get 5.1 again, its not stable.

Thanks for the input.

 

Update. I took a fresh look at my 5.1 settings and for some reason I think they had been reset so I tweaked them a bit and was able to pass several RelaBench stress tests as well as a few rounds of BF1. The CPU temps in the stress test were a few degrees hotter then the first delid but are still cool enough to run at 5.1, the peak was 80, I think I can drop the voltage a bit more to get closer. Overall a worth wile endeavor.

 

I just delidded mine tonight. I'm so worried now that I didn't put enough or that it just won't work. 330 bucks down the drain.

 

Eh?

Its weird that your temps went up, any idea if the IHS was not properly making contact with the Die?
Also did you try just floating it this time, instead of resealing ?

 

I did a dry fit and there was some play in it, it looked like the PCB was warped a bit, that led me to believe that maybe the first time with all the glue may have held it better then the clip, at this point I'm leaving it, 5.1 is a good OC and my temps are still very good.

Now if I could only get my 1080Ti to OC, so far I'm at +35/+75.

So how did it work?

 

Tonight after I get back from work I'll put it back in.

 

It's works temps drop by 15-20 c

 

Do you have any pictures of testing or temps through hwinfo?

 

Sorry I don't have before and after pics. I can do after pics.

 

I'm gonna delid my 6700K. I bought all the items today, they'll be delivered this week, and I'll probably do it next week sometime. I'll let you know how it goes with before & after temperatures.

This is what I bought:
der8auer delid-die-mate-2 + Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra:
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/der8auer-delid-die-mate-2-hs-003-dr.html
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/coollaboratory-liquid-ultra-thermal-paste-th-013-cl.html

Kapton Tape for covering some of the gold contacts on the CPU PCB, safety measure to prevent liquid ultra coming into contact with them:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Haobase-0-05mm-100ft-Resistant-Kaptop/dp/B01JLMULXS/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1494352618&sr=1-1-fkmr0&keywords=Haobase+20mm33m0.05mm+(100ft)+Heat+Resistant+Kaptop+Tape

Silicon Adhesive Sealant for reattaching IHS:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/K2-High-T...222849?hash=item1a11f20301:g:s2EAAOSwYmZXENVT

Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut, for the interface between heatsink & IHS, I'm thinking this is safer than using liquid ultra - to prevent leakage onto motherboard & prevent staining of heat sink - thinking it's most important for largest gains to just use Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra between the chip & IHS:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Thermal-Gr...2572&sr=1-1&keywords=thermal+grizzly+kryonaut

Not necessarily expecting higher overclocks, unless I go for 1.4V, but will be fun to have super low temperatures, at the moment I've got temperatures in the 40's & 50's when playing Titanfall 2, I'm expecting it to be in the 30's & 40's after the delid! I'm also expecting the delid to even up the temperatures between the different cores, at the moment I have up to about 13 degC difference between cores under extreme loading such as Prime95.

EDIT: and finally for useful Delid & Relidding information on the process & results I'm using some of these for reference:
https://www.hardocp.com/article/2017/01/19/intel_kaby_lake_i77700k_cpu_delid_relid_results/
https://www.hardocp.com/article/2017/02/02/intel_kaby_lake_i57600k_cpu_delid_relid_temp_results/
He recommends gluing down the IHS when under pressure from the relidding tool, and by using sealant around the entire border of the IHS except for one spot to allow for air to escape during thermal expansion when the CPU is in use - he got better temperatures by gluing it down securely vs not gluing it down properly (see end of 7600K article above).

 

If I were going to do it a fourth I would glue it down all the way just as I did the first time. I still have great temps though, I game at 5.1 and average temp is below 60.

 

Yes, that's interesting that you also have results that point to gluing down securely equals better temperatures - matches what they say in that HardOCP review. I'll do my best to glue it down securely using the least amount of glue possible, while at the same time ensuring it's glued around the whole perimeter (with one small spot free from glue to allow for thermal expansion). A good overclock you've got there, there's really not anymore sensible headroom in those 7700K's beyond that overclock you have.

 

Had the opposite experience over multiple processors. I just dont glue them down anymore. Much easier and hassle free.

 

As I understand is this mentioned with the 7600K. And we know 7700K will run hotter. With glue on, we all know the IHS will get a tiny bit less contact with the die. And we want the opposite.

"He recommends gluing down the IHS when under pressure from the relidding tool, and by using sealant around the entire border of the IHS except for one spot to allow for air to escape during thermal expansion when the CPU is in use - he got better temperatures by gluing it down securely vs not gluing it down properly (see end of 7600K article above)."

As for thermal expansion when the CPU is in use... You could mod your IHS.

 

@solat152

It may be a side effect of removing the old glue to put down the new glue, and that gives better IHS / die contact.

I'd skip the new glue - clean off the old glue, and double up on the tape protection for board components so you can increase the LM on the die / IHS - you do coat both with LM before assembly, right?

 

Yeah, I would skip the glue and as well use LM between IHS and HS. See also what I said regarding thermal expansion.

 

Before I glued my IHS the last time I tried a dry fit of the IHS and there was a bit of a wobble, I'm wondering if the full glue I applied the first was what made the difference by holding it in place despite the wobble, on the other hand, I wonder if the pressure of the socket clamp and CPU cooler make the glue a moot point. At this point I'm going to leave it in place but if I do remove it I will look closely at the fit.

 

Interesting. I'm gonna try gluing it down first, if temperatures are rubbish I'll remove the glue.

 

I would leave it unglued first. It's easier to apply glue than remove it.

Was the wobble as in sliding around? Or tilting wobble?
Either ways, till the time the contact details die to IHS is good, there won't be any difference between the 2. Unless too much glue is used.

 

Thanks for the advice, I'll take it into consideration, I'm not doing it until next week, so I can mull it over!