Well I bit the bullet and opted to build a desktop instead of buying a new laptop. Most of the stuff should be arriving today. Its a modest build. Here are the specs. Tell me what you think.
Ryzen 7 1700x
MSI X370 Gaming carbon pro motherboard
16 gb corsair 3200 RGB
Asus RX580 8gb overclocked
EVGA 850w Gold series full modular power supply
CoolerMaster Master box 5
Samsung 512gb 960 Evo for OS
Toshiba 3tb 7200 rpm for DATA
MSI Core Frozr L for a cooler
I decided to not go with a 4k monitor, mostly because they are so expensive, so I went with the MSI 27" curved screen with 1920x1080
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Modest my ass, it's a good machine, it's not ultra hardcore but it's still high end.
It's a nice system, really like it, I did build a similair one a couple of weeks ago. It's performing great, however I had some issues with the M2. SSD. Let us know once u got it up and running, do some benchmarks and let us know about some issues which might have happened.Raiderman likes this. -
The core frozr comes with some arctic silver I believe.
I was thinking it was modest, because everything is not top of the line. Like the Ryzen, and the video card. First time in a long time that I am doing a build for myself. I will post more pics and maybe do some benching.Papusan likes this. -
What were the issues? Installing the OS? I have heard some things about this.
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It suddenly wouldnt want to read the SSD anymore. It just randomly decided to not want to read it anymore. Asus 370 pro board.Raiderman likes this.
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Known issue with Samsung NVMe driver. Suddenly a reboot would render boot drive inaccessible. Usually hitting Ctrl+Alt+Del to soft reset system works. You can use MSFT standard NVMe with Samsung NVMe like tweaks to enjoy low latency and super snappy app launching and OS is buttery smooth.
@Raiderman Use this link for more info Intel ME Firmware (SA-00086) security flaw
Clean arctic silver paste and use better paste mentioned in this thread. http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...nd-apply-traditional-and-liquid-metal.806840/
Personally I use Cooler Master Maker gel nano. You can use GELID extreme or Kryonaut or Phobya(very expensive but works on warped heatsinks). Use surface method for best thermals.Raiderman likes this. -
Wrong, in my case the drive was simply posintioned really poorly. The M2.sata slot is right next to the CPU and the GPU, which cause the drive to overheat and bluescreen under windows, the board would shut it off before it would get damaged. A complete powerdrain is needed in order to get the drive working again. I fixed this issue by doing a really stupid workaround, which prove to be really effective. I took an adapter which would make the M2. port to a PCI-E4x port (motherboard didnt have 4x ports), then a PCI-E 4x port to the M2.sata port on top of the PCI-E 4x adapter. I used a thermal pad between the PCI-E 4x adapter and the M2. sata drive so that the PCB is acting now as a heatsink, the drive is cool now and it works flawlessly again. Asus don't only design their notebooks poorly but apparently their mainboards as well.
@Raiderman
No worries tho, your M2.sata port is right between the 2 PCI-E 16x ports, which is far far away from the CPU. So you likely won't have these heatink issues like I did.Raiderman likes this. -
Yeah your drive shut down due to overheat. PCIe adapter to M.2 is the only logical choice.
What I said is true, Samsung NVMe drivers sometimes causes boot drive inaccessible error. There are 100s of threads on the W10 forums.Raiderman likes this. -
Oh yeah, an adapter somehow made the drivers work and the 85+c in HWinfo before it would bluescreen and shutdown are completely normal right?
Apparently the adapter I bought got drivers for the SSD then, good to know.Raiderman likes this. -
85C is bad and SSD is throttle itself or shutdown. Max operating temps is 70C.Raiderman likes this.
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Max Operating temp is different from each SSD, but yes, some are at 70s others at 80s, anything close to that is bad, really bad. Hence the adapter as heatsink method which dropped it to 45c on load. Since then no bluescreen, no shutdown, nothing but pure awesomeness.
Lesson:
Don't put your M2. Slot right next to the CPU and GPU.Raiderman likes this. -
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Well crap, it looks like the rest of the build will not be here until tomorrow. I received the monitor, case, and speakers today. Looks like the power supply, video card, motherboard, and hard drive wont arrive today. Oh well. Since when did Newegg require signature confirmation for deliveries?
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Well everything arrived, and put most of it together, and I have no power? I will have to do some digging to see what the heck is going on. I have not installed the big mechanical drive yet, and only have one stick of ram in. Flipped the power switch header to the other side, with no affect. Double checked the cpu power plug, motherboard plug. Dont know yet/ I know I have power from the power supply, as an LED shines on the video card. I wonder if the MB is DOA
Last edited: Nov 30, 2017hmscott likes this. -
Most typically it's a short from the case stand-off's to some point on the motherboard, usually an extra stand-off that doesn't have a hole-through in the motherboard. It can also be a trace near a stand-off. I use insulating washers on the top and bottom of the motherboard when attaching it to the case.
It can also be a trace around the edge of the motherboard touching / resting on a case ridge or other protuberence. I've even had metal parts or screw's sticking out or free rolling that short the MB. Eyeball it installed and uninstalled, and then do a sanity check build outside the case if you can't find the case short(s).
Usually I will plug in the basic single stick of RAM, dGPU if required (no onboard video), and power it up to make sure the CPU / motherboard are lighting up, and then continue to build it outside the case, on top of a box - it can be the box the motherboard came in, or another conveniently sized box.
There are open build rigs too, but most of us don't need them for our single computer build live's, the boxes work great, just watch out for metalized embossed graphics - those are conductive.
Then when I've got all the parts working outside the case, and I am happy with the mix of components for the build, only then do I bolt it all into the case.
Good luck
Last edited: Nov 30, 2017Raiderman likes this. -
Thanks buddy, I will poke around a bit and see if I can spot anything. Been through this many times. I know the case comes with two preinstalled stand offs, one of which is a centering stand off. I really love it when it posts the first push of the button. I will remove the video card, and see if I can spot anything. As of now, I have no lights coming on the motherboard
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Well I cant see anything. I do have insulating washers, but I have never used them before in any build I have done. Since the power supply is modular, and has two outlets for the cpu power, I switched to the other with no luck. I think I will remove the MB, and reinstall it, to see if that will do any good. I am thinking the MB is DOA. Some of the reviews on newegg did say that they received some that were DOA. At this point I am bummed as usual, but that is part of the system building process. You would think that at least the diagnostic LEDS would shine when pressing the power button.
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Well HM, you were right! Took it out and set it on the box, and shorted the two pins for the power switch....voila! Power! I know this MB has an active south bridge heat sink, with screws that stick out a little. I wonder if those are setting against the case?
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Yup, use a flat surface to eyeball what is sticking out lower than the stand-off and dike it off, or file it down, or get spacers to add to the stand-off'under the motherboard in that area, raising it all over will make the cut outs for back panels not match up.
You can get hard core and nibble case metal if it's not the outside skin, or get ceramic insulation to put between case and motherboard.
Or, get a different case.
Quick tip, look for scratches in case coating under the motherboard - gently press down and scratch a millimeter or two to see better if you've got a good feel / touch, but don't let the stand-off'scratch your motherboard - if it comes to this remove all the stand-off's to be on the safe side.
I've always wanted some kind of non-conductive layer between the motherboard and case held down by the stand-offs, for those times when you press in a board or the weight of a heat sink presses down and the long points under the motherboard can get close enough to short.
A nice non-conductive slippery surface to keep those pesky dropped screws from finding a way to wedge under the motherboard shorting it out.
Last edited: Nov 30, 2017 -
Up and running now. Just updating Win 7 using simplix pack. Install of 7 is very easy on new hardware, as long as you have integrated USB 3 drivers, and just place the NVME driver on the root of the installation media. Need to catch up on Ryzen tweaks. Need to get ram up to speed!
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It looks like everyone is waiting for AGESA 1.0.0.7
Any news of AGESA 1.0.0.7?
https://www.reddit.com/r/Amd/comments/71c9w9/any_news_of_agesa_1007/
It's been a couple of months since 1.0.0.6b came out:
Version
7A32v19
Release Date
2017-09-19
File Size
8.02 MB
Description
- Improved memory compatibility.
- Update AGESA Code 1.0.0.6b
https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/support/X370-GAMING-PRO-CARBON.htmlLast edited: Nov 30, 2017 -
Well I have the memory at 3200mhz, and running stock clocks on the cpu. Downloaded Ryzen master, and not sure how well that works. Tried 4 ghz, but it wont even get past a windows 7 experience index. Just havent had the time yet to play with it.
Ryzen Build
Discussion in 'Desktop Hardware' started by Raiderman, Nov 29, 2017.