7811 overclocking help

I'll get some paste anyway. Listen, I'm going to leave this for now. I don't have any gloves. I do have saran wrap, but there's something you need to understand about me. I'm like a boarder-line retarded chimpanzee that's missing a few fingers when it comes to performing delicate tasks, and it doesn't help that I now have to hold the saran wrap as well as use it to peel off the thermal pad. I'll wait to get home (at a friends house), and then I might do the procedure. While I'm hear, I might as well give undervolting a try. If I undervolt, do I need to underclock as well? And to underclock the cpu, do I just change the fbs speed?

 

yeah..gotta pull the MOBO to access the GPU. It's really a pain, just too many screws to keep up with. They did a great job on my GPU paste, but hey..can't hurt to do it yourself. Just don't lose any screws. If you got the palmrest off, takes about 15 more minutes.

 

You don't have to underclock to undervolt, you can probably lower the voltage even more by underclocking but its not necessary. If you use RMClock you'll be underclocking by 166 mhz anyways (you drop from 9.5 to 9x because it doesn't recognize .5 multipliers) but you can use crystal cpuid and you won't lose that .5 mutliplier.

 

Yeah there's a lot more screws between separating the MB from the case after doing the palm rest. We'll see if I have a modding attack when I get it apart again I guess, lol. I have no real reason to do it as my GPU temps are fine and the 7805u doesn't seem to have Tzs0 issues like the 7811 does either. I dunno if cooling the GPU better would even have an effect on that but regardless it doesn't really need any help.

 

you can undervolt the CPU, it wont help with fixing TZS0. Undervolting and underclocking are 2 different beasts. Undervolting won't hurt performance, unless in this case..where your CPU uses a 9.5 multiplier and will only run at x9 when using RMClock to undervolt..then it automatically underclocks your CPU too. So you will hurt performance, slightly. But typically, undervolting is for temps and longevity without affecting performance. Don't waste your time, there's no need with a P8400. Just fix that thermal pad, and some new AS5 and you're golden.

 

By "some new AS5", you mean on the CPU, right? I want to make perfectly sure of what I'm going to do, as I do not want to screw myself over right now.

Edit: I've been worrying about this all day... I'm going to go relax for now. This is the last weekend before classes start actually giving out work, and I feel like playing some Mario Kart while I still can

 

if you want to run the .5 multiplier you have to tick the "IDA" slot... then you can run it @ the .5 multipliers. I am running mine @ max performance @ 2.79 ghz by ticking the IDA and undervolting it... no more tzs0 spiking up to 98C... i ran 3dmarks06 5 times just to make sure LOL

 

Ok, new pics. I have a bit of a problem. I took the heatsink off again, and it made the tear worse:




I then peeled the pad off with gloves, and applied it to the heatsink, like you told me to E-Wrecked. I tried to move the torn part of the pad back into place and here are the results:





I havent turned it back on yet. And sorry about the quality of some of the shots. I took these ones myself with a normal camera, while the others were taken by my photographer friend with a camera that I am pretty sure is worth more then the actual computer.

 

I removed the pad and used AS5, seems to working well so far. I used a liberal amount. I don't recomend this as there is no way for me to garenty this but if you do this just be sure when tighting the screw you can see the HS stops moving and the spring is being compressed by the screw. This ensures preasure on the chip from the HS.

 

I don't want to use AS5, as E-Wrecked said it can heat up very fast that way. I'm not saying that it absolutely won't work, I'm just saying that I don't want to risk it.

Edit: Do I have the pad placed right? It's rectangular, so I'm not sure if it should be placed the way I placed it, or the other possible way.

 

Alright, I decide to boot up, as I am pretty sure I applied the pad correctly. I'm idling right now, and temps look ok. TZS's are both at 33. GPU is taking a while to heat up, and is a 42 right now. That's not especially strange, but what is strange is that it's rising very slowly. Normally it rises quickly, then falls quickly. I'll have to keep an eye on that.

 

I have to hand it to you E-Wrecked, you know your stuff. Ran 3dmark06 and scored 8809, which is my average for factory clocks. Difference is, temps were way down. They still peaked at around 65, but they took a lot longer to get there. Far Cry 2 runs a lot cooler as well. And when idling, I cool down quicker, and to 38 instead of 39. And all I did was nudge the thermal pad around a little until the tears were less visible. I'm very happy with this. I'm still going to get some Arctic Silver for my CPU, but now I'm wondering if I can buy another thermal pad for the northbridge. I think it would be worth it if it lowers my temps even more.

 

you could flip that pad the opposite way, from how I look at it, I mean turn it upside down. Then the tears will be outside the contact area with the chipset. It's ok if it's torn, but you don't want the tears to be part of the heat conductivity area. Move that pad around a bit, and just try to have good pad touch the chipset. Not sure if you re-applied AS5 - I didn't see that comment. But, if you do..less is more. The less as5 the better. You wanna use a VERY thin layer on the heatsink, and also spread a VERY thin layer on the CPU. I use a razor blade to apply, just be careful not to gouge the CPU or heatsink when using the blade. The amount of AS5 should be about as thin as a piece of notebook paper.

EDIT: Buying a new thermal pad? Gonna be difficult. Gateway couldn't provide me one. You can try http://www.mxm-upgrades.com - they sell them seperately. Also, I called HP, and they couldn't help. Thermal pads are hard to come by..well, quality ones are. But MXM Upgrades, as I said, will sell you them. Most pads you find for sale are too thin, or not the right material. I mailed Narsnail, Syngen, and a couple other folks some thermal pads and copper frrom when I copper-modded the Northbridge cooling setup. Otherwise, I'd mail you my leftovers. Your pad is fine, just work with it.. it should solve your problems if done properly.

 

I was digging through old posts about this, and I found what you're referring to. That place that you can get pads for free by requesting a sample. What was that site? I closed it out, and now I can't find the link. I'm too tired to go looking for it again today. I trust you that the AS5 on the cpu will work, but it's always nice to have a backup plan. Oh, and I ran 3dmark06 again and checked my TZS0 reading, and it was 86C, which is apparently when it down throttles with the 9.10c bios, which I'm currently running. TZS1 also goes up a little bit. So is it actually reaching those temps, or is it a false reading? I believe you had mentioned the true temperature was 62C. If that's the case, then what's going on to make it read 98 or 86, and is it safe to use RMClock to suppress the cpu downthrottle? I'd only use it if the AS5 doesn't work, but I'd still like to know if the option is open.

 

I can attest to the fact do not remove the pad, P7805u. I tried it out for 24 hours, removing the pad and using AS5 to replace it. After the 24 hours I removed the heat pipe. While the CPU had the excess AS5 squished out there was still a thick layer over the Chipset. Over time this would have caused an issue.

A copper plate shim might suffice but I am not sure if I want to go that route yet. The pad is back for now, I may reaserch higher efficiency pads too........

 

Here's another thing I noticed about TZS0 and TZS1. After they reach a certain temperature of about 42-44, they don't go down again. Right now, they are both in the low 30s. If I were to start playing a game, they would climb to the low 40s. But then, when I stop playing and wait for a while, they still don't go down. Why is that?

 

Sooo...how's TZS0 treating you?

 

The cpu fan kicks on at a certain point but also kicks off at a point as well. If it kicks off at 42C or so it will not kick back on to cool it off further than that. When you restart the fan kicks on, even if the system were ice cold it would. this lowers your heatsink temp and the cycle contnues.

 

Still waiting on that AS5. I can't fix the problem by moving the thermal pad around. I won't be able to apply AS5 until I Friday anyway. It shipped to my house, and I just moved on campus. That kind of sucks too. I would probably send it in to Gateway if it were still winter break and I didn't have anything to do, but that's not an option right now.

 

Alright, I now have both the Targus 180W supply, and a tube of arctic silver.
No instructions came with it, but it told me to go to the website. Should I do that, or just smear a little bit around with a razor blade?

Edit: And do I apply any to the heatsink, or is that not necessary?

 

if putting the AS5 on the cpu, then put a small rice sized drop on the die of the cpu and spread it around evenly with a flat surface. i wouldnt recommend using a razor blade.

and putting AS5 on the heatsink is not necessary.

 

Actually I think they suggest "shading" the heatsink by wiping just a little over it with a plastic bag over your finger and then wiping it off with a lint free towel to fill in some of the micro pores. There's some conflicting schools of thought about spreading but for a non lidded cpu your probably better off to spread it so it doesnt ooze over the sides. With a lidded cpu you want the paste to get spread by the mechanical compression so you don't introduce air bubbles.

 

I agree with the rubbing of the heatsink with AS5 to buff the filler into the micro gaps. And personally, I've always done that..then wiped to a minor haze, and then applied an uber thin layer of AS5 to the heatsink. I prolly layer my CPU and heatsink much thinner than most folks.. I don't just slap it on. It looks like a work of art by the time I get done with it. So, I apply to both CPU and heatsink but recommend others don't unless they're gonna spend the time to do it properly.

 

I always shade the HSF and then leave just enough on the cpu to not be able to see the cpu core (unless its a lidded proc then I do a dab and try to hit it in the direction of the cores underneath, and then let it spread out from the pressure). You know you did a good job when the heatsink is STUCK to the processor and you have to twist to get it off. More is not better when it comes to thermal compound thats for sure.

 

Couldn't agree more.. I watched my buddy apply AS5 to an AMD notebook processor, and I didn't say anything(cause I didn't know better at the time). I watched as he emptied approximately half the tube on this processor, keep in mind it has a big spreader similar to a desktop. And he was under the impression that if some is good, then A LOT is best. Anyhow, he locks the CPU down and drops on the heatsink..some AS5 comes oozing out around the CPU, like squeezing a smore and having the marshmallow ooze over the graham crackers. He looked at me, said "Looks like there's enough!" and put the system back together. I later found out that wasn't necessairly a good method, lol.. but his laptop DOES run very cool and never had any problems! About 2 months ago I finally convinced him to reapply it properly.. and it made me laugh when he opened it up and I peeked inside. Still looked like a squished arctic silver smore.

 

I sent some pics to E-w, but I'll post here too. I'll only post what it looks like spread out. I think I might be doing it too sloppily.

 

Looks like your CPU has a disease of some sort. It's growing warts? Umm. Maybe I'm seeing something incorrectly.

 

Could have put it more gently. I'll reapply later tonight.

 

lol..just messin with ya bro Really..the whole point is to make sure theres an even layer on the CPU. And if you decide to do the heatsink, then do the same. As long as there is enough to fill the microgaps, then you're job is accomplished. Once the heatsink is on, no one can see the AS5(hopefully). And, if your temps are in check then don't worry bout it

 

The heatsink is easier for me. It's a large surface area. I like my hands overall, but they shake when I try to keep them from moving to much. Makes operations like this hard. Maybe I should take out the CPU entirely when doing this, what do you think? It might make it easier to spread the stuff evenly.

 

absolutely! That explains a lot.. GOTTA take it out

 

Oh. lol, I didn't think it was necessary. Ok then. I'll tell you how it turns out.

 

Today i decided to take my 7811 apart entirely, so far i have just taken off the backplates for extra HDD and changed the cpu thermal compound. But lately i saw very high temps with my GPU, so i wanted to replace the thermal compound on GPU. When i took the laptop apart and put back together 3 times :lol: (every time i reached to a point when i was at the end, i noticed that some screws were over or didnt fit to the screw-hole). After 4 months of using, the laptop had guite big amount of dust covering the outlet fan hole. And when i saw the compound on GPU, it was very dry and very thin. I replaced it with IC-7 Carat Diamond paste- one of the best what is out there for the CPU or GPU. And put same thing on CPU again. After playing NBA 2K9 with decent OC 685/1800/940 on GPU i saw amazing results. Before i got 92 C on GPU after 1 hour of playing with that OC, now the max was 72C! -20 in temp- so after a 4 hour messing around, i am real glad i did it. And my TZS0 and TZS1 temp was lower around -18C and CPU -15. GPU is idling with those OC clocks at 51C, before it was 60C. Now i am really disapointed that i bought laptop cooler 1 week ago, all i needed was to change thermal compund on GPU and CPU. I took some pictures of that process, ill upload them if i get them off from my mobile phone.

 

Yeah, pics of the process would be good. My gpu doesn't have overheating problems, but it still would be nice to see how to take this thing apart and actually get access to it if needed.

 

Well i have pictures of the seperate parts, but didnt take the pictures step by step. But i can probably tell, for what to watch out when taking your lappy apart.

 

Yeah, any pics would be good. The only laptop I took apart, I severed the tape that connected the mobo and the keyboard. I was lucky that it was a broken laptop already though.