Gateway P-7805u charging issues.

Alright, I have a Gateway FX p-7805u, and it has the overly common issue of crashing whenever I do anything that requires the card, and even when it's at idle. (Thanks for building us an expensive computer that didn't last 3 years, Gateway.)

In the last few days, it's gotten to where if it's plugged in, it wont come on (It comes on, but never displays anything, and the charging light on the laptop goes off) If it is on, and I plug it in, it black screens. When I turn it on when it's plugged in, I get a 3 beep code. Is my motherboard fried, or has the DC jack fried itself? This started after my charger started arking out, and I'm wondering if it had anything to do with it. I have a good charger for it.

I have had this laptop apart many times, so having to disassemble it isn't an issue. ( I also have another board on the way that I got for cheap that has the graphics issue as well, but not as bad as mine.)

Thanks!

 

Phoenix BIOS Beep Codes
These audio codes are a little more detailed then the AMI codes. This BIOS emits three sets of beeps. For example, 1 -pause- 3 -pause 3 -pause. This is a 1-3-3 combo and each set of beeps is separated by a brief pause. Listen to this sequence of sounds, count them, and reboot and count again if you have to.

1-1-3 Your computer can't read the configuration info stored in the CMOS. Replace the motherboard.
1-1-4 Your BIOS needs to be replaced.
1-2-1 You have a bad timer chip on the motherboard. You need a new motherboard.
1-2-2 The motherboard is bad.
1-2-3 The motherboard is bad.
1-3-1 You'll need to replace the motherboard.
1-3-3 You'll need to replace the motherboard.
1-3-4 The motherboard is bad.
1-4-1 The motherboard is bad.
1-4-2 Some of your memory is bad.
2-_-_ Any combo of beeps after two means that some of your memory is bad, and unless you want to get real technical, you should probably have the guys in the lab coats test the memory for you. Take it to the shop.
3-1-_ One of the chips on your motherboard is broken. You'll likely need to get another board.
3-2-4 One of the chips on your motherboard that checks the keyboard is broken. You'll likely need to get another board.
3-3-4 Your computer can't find the video card. Is it there? If so, try swapping it with another one and see if it works.
3-4-_ Your video card isn't working. You'll need to replace it.
4-2-1 There's a bad chip on the motherboard. You need to buy another board.
4-2-2 First check the keyboard for problems. If nothing, you have a bad motherboard.
4-2-3 Same as 4-2-2.
4-2-4 One of the cards is bad. Try yanking out the cards one by one to isolate the culprit. Replace the bad one. The last possibility is to buy another motherboard.
4-3-1 Replace the motherboard.
4-3-2 See 4-3-1
4-3-3 See 4-3-1
4-3-4 Time of day clock failure. Try running the setup program that comes with the computer. Check the date and time. If that doesn't work, replace the battery. If that doesn't work, replace the power supply. You may have to replace the motherboard, but that is rare.
4-4-1 Your serial ports are acting up. Reseat, or replace, the I/O card. If the I/O is on the motherboard itself, disable them with a jumper (consult your manual to know which one) and then add an I/O card.
4-4-2 See 4-4-1, but this time is your Parallel port that's acting up.
4-4-3 You math coprocessor is having problems. Run a test program to double-check it. If it is indeed bad, disable it, or replace it.
Low 1-1-2 Your motherboard is having problems
Low 1-1-3 This is an Extended CMOS RAM problem, check your motherboard battery, and motherboard.

 

Hope that helps. You can download the current bios here: Gateway Support - Downloads & Support Documents - Notebook / P Series / P-78

 

First of all, Thanks for your reply.

So wait, I need to install that Bios?

Not sure which number represents what in that chart you posted, but I think it may be the 1-3-3. It beeps once, pauses (Very short pause), and beeps twice more.

Thanks!

 

1-2 is a motherboard issue. Try flashing the bios again and boot. If all fails, replace the motherboard.

To save any headaches, just replace the MB since you have one already. Personally, I love computer headaches. It's like crack to me... I've gotta figure out exactly what's wrong and how to fix it. Then I have to recreate the issue and fix it again so I know what NOT to do. Hope you get it fixed and running normal again.

 

Alright, the new (To me) mobo came in today. While it comes on when it's plugged in, it won't charge when it's under a load (Like GTA IV).... I wonder if my charger is too weak, because i'm currently using the one from my Lenovo laptop. I'm going to try the chargers from my 2 Toshiba laptops and see if they yield the same results.

I didnt do the bios flash, but I imagine that I will in the future... I got tired of screwing with that motherboard. I like experimenting and finding the problem, but enough is enough, Haha.

Edit: Charger from first Toshiba didn't work, but the one from my second one did. It's a 90W Targus universal charger with the switchable ends. It appears to be working fine, and I hope it continues to.

 

the p7805u comes with a 120w charger which i personally believe is about the bare minimum for it (it gets extremely hot while gaming). I have a 180w targus that doesnt get anywhere near as hot (warm to the touch) as the stock charger does. its only a matter of time before that 90w grows unstable and potentially fries itself and possibly the notebook as well with a surge.

 

I'll look into getting one if they are cheap enough.. I just really hate to spend much money on the sorry POS. 99% of these laptops have this problem, and I think gateway should have recalled them..

With this new board, it doesnt crash, but most of the time when gaming, the graphics are insane (Not in a good way) and everything freaks out. I think that im going to try a reflow and see what i yeilds.

 

if it is freaking out then either the drivers are toast or maybe the GPU cooling is bad................

 

I dont think the drivers are bad, but i'll download another version and see.

The cooling fans are running properly, and the Gpu has new arctic silver paste on it.

Something else that complicates things is that the port that is usually used for the wifi card is broken. I have my card plugged into the other port, and it recognizes it in device manger, but the on/off switch on the computer wont control it, and it doesn't detect any networks...

 

The second port has the wifi off all the time. You have to block the switch pin for it with tape etc. This is a hardware hack though so you will have to look for someone else to help you there............

 

As far as functionality is concerned, you should be able to "restart" the device within the manager or find a third party (or card mfg) software that will turn the device on. DLink has a habit of doing this for everything they make internally. The option TAN is speaking of is a bit more complicated.

You will have to find which connections on the motherboard for the card port are the + and - terminals and abridge the + to the on/off switch. It's not too hard. Just takes a little solder, wire and a crap load of patience. Here's an idea of what you're lookin at:


1 - The connection for the card port ON THE MOTHERBOARD
You will have to interrupt this circuit by breaking the solder mark and removing the pin.

2 - The + terminal ON THE MOTHERBOARD. Yes, the same spot you removed the solder and pin from

3 - The switch in off position

You can cut some shrink wrap and place it between the motherboard and the new + pin mod to prevent shorting out. However, try at your own risk and it's not for the faint of heart.

 

sale it! ill buy it