Gateway SA1 laptop needs SPDIF output.

I want to run my car amplifiers off of my SA1 M-6881 laptop but the gateway doesn't have a SPDIF output. Can someone give me link or recommendation for a sound card with SPDIF out for the gateway SA1 please?

Thanks

 

You have a SPDIF but you need to use an adapter for the headphone jack.

Gateway Support - M-6881 Notebook Specifications

Amazon.com: StarTech.com THINTOSMIN6 6 feet Toslink to Mini Digital Optical SPDIF Audio Cable: Electronics
or
Amazon.com: Recoton Fiber Optic Toslink to 3.5mm Mini Adapter: Electronics
or
Amazon.com: C2G / Cables to Go 40017 Velocity Right Angle Adapter Toslink to Mini Plug: Electronics

 

Great new.. Thanks TANWare!

Now I need to decide on which amp's (sub also) and speakers.

 

I cant believe car audio hasn't caught up to home audio yet..
I cant find any car amps with spdif optical input.. So I bought a headphone jack to RCA adapter but Iv read I need a impedance corrector to use it..

 

Found in less than 60 seconds.............

Alpine MRA-F350 5-channel Digital Theater car amplifier 50 watts RMS x 5 at Crutchfield.com

 

Alpine MRA-F350 is discontinued.

I called crutchfield and they said they don't sell one and I should use headphone/rca adapter

 

I tried a best-buy mini stereo to rca adapter. laptop headphone out, to rca, and into aux in and it sounded horrible. Sounded like one channel was missing until you pulled the mini-stereo plug out a little bit. Then it sounded ok, but the plug wasn't secure. I see a big difference from the apple 3-way headphone plug to the mini-stereo plug and figured that was the problem.. But what I don't understand, is why my Koss headphones with the mini-stereo 2-way plug, as opposed to the 3-way apple plug, sound fine but the mini-stereo into aux in doesn't, with either my laptop or tablet. But then I find a bunch of reports of people using tablets as head units and using the regular 2-way 3.5 mini-stereo with no issue.

 

You may be overloading the input to the stereo. Depends but your driving a variable high level headphone signal into a fixed line level input. There may be an impedance mismatch as well. Try turning the laptop volume way down.

Some car stereos have a USB input that works with laptop drives or USB memory sticks. All digital and no laptop to distract from driving.

 

I don't need a HU after seeing what a android tablet with a potentiometer volume control inline before the amps can do.. But a HU would work well if you already had a HU with input.

I bought a monster icable with 2way mini-stereo male jack both ends which looks the same as the mini-stereo 2way jack I tried unsuccessfully. But to my surprise, it worked well hooking my tablet to a JVC kaboom box. It sounded clean and the kaboom boombox has a 12v input jack so I can power it from the van. In fact the kaboom box is so cost effective and portable I'm thinking about a second one for the van, both hooked to my galaxy II 10.1 tablet.

I did notice the volume on the tablet needed to be 100% to get close to the volume of the FM tuner, and Im not sure if splitting the signal to two boombox's will reduce volume further.

 

wow, does no one search anymore.
Alpine MRA F350 Car Amplifier 5 Channel Dolby Digital Processor Amplifier 793276300768 | eBay

 

In the week since I posted my question, Iv learned and switched gears. Why use a digital signal when it has to be converted somewhere, and a amp with only optic in and a wimpy 50w x 5 just don't cut it.

Iv got some old school amps laying around if I want to go that route. I hear the old school is better that the latest junk.

Or better yet, have two powerful portable devices able to charge or be powered anywhere I go.

this and this are all I really need

 

Actually since most modern media is digital to begin with it is best to keep it in the format until the D/A is needed. In reality with digital switching amps etc. you may never need to convert to analog. 50w x 5 to me is more than ample in the confines of a car unless you are using extremely inefficient speakers. Also though if you are already going deaf from over blasting music I could see needing more then too.

 

Car audio and home audio are two completely different systems. The capabilities of car audio are limited to 12/24v systems with where as home audio can use every bit of 110v + power from an amplifier. You must also consider amperage. 12v * 40a = 480wh where as 110v * 20a = 2200wh. It is your car amp the increases the punch (amps) to the current (volts) to power your car's audio (watts).

 

You have to get creative with one or two of these; HIGH OUTPUT ALTERNATOR INFINITY QX56 NISSAN ARMADA TITAN 5.6L 2004-2006 250AMP on eBay!

Yugo's need not apply

 

Creative certainly is the word for it, lol. You would have to replace the stock wiring, the fuse board, the relay board and install new electronic hardware so you won't fry other electronics and blow your battery.