P-6831FX Extra Cooling Solutions??

I started to experience some performance loss with some intense gaming ... So I reinstalled Windows Vista 32, thinking it might just "be time" for a clean install. That helped somewhat. Still had some issues. So I decided to see if I could clean the laptop of dust and dirt. I disassembled the unit fairly easily, and realized there was a thick (almost "fur coat") covering the heatsink of the GPU , so the airflow was almost completely impeded. I cleaned that off, removed the heatsink of the GPU, cleaned off the old paste, and applied Arctic Silver 5 for better contact / cooling. After I did this, the games run better, but when it reaches a "boiling point"... the screen goes BLACK (still hear sounds) I assume this is from the GPU over-heating. I have a "clip on" desk fan blowing air under the laptop (which is now propped up in the back) to allow more air under the unit. I just don't know what else to do to make this thing run cooler except to cut holes in the chasis to allow better airflow. There is nothing more frustrating than getting into a game and have the screen go BLACK, leaving me one option; do a Hard Shut-down of the machine.

 

Do both fns run properly? Also when you did the dissassembly did you do a ful one down to the gpu? I suppose you just put the pad back for the NB so are those temps holding up well too?

 

yep, both fans are running. The airflow from the GPU fan is obviously much stronger since I removed the "fur coat" haha.
sorry, not sure what U mean by "ful one down". "The pad back", I assume U mean the TIM pad? Yes, I simply left the pad intact, and recoated the heatsink paste. "NB" ... Hmmm ... Not sure how to monitor the temps while in fullscreen gaming mode. I'm feeling like a noob now. I've been outta the loop for a while already... sooo sorry

 

A full tear down to the GPU. The pad back, yes the tim pad. If you run HW monitor in the background while gaming it will register the min and max TSZ temps. The problem may then lie in the screen to get back to those temps.

 

I considered cutting holes in the bottom case so that cleaning the heatsink for the GPU is easily performed. However, there is a heavy metal plate under the heatsink, which I'm not about to damage. I just don't feel like tearing down the entire machine every time I want to clean the GPU heatsink. Maybe I'll cut a hole above the heatsink (below the keyboard) so that I just have to yank the keyboard to gain access to the GPU heatsink.
BTW: when the screen goes black, the only way I can get out of it is to do a manual HARD shut-down (hold the power button in). I'll install HW Monitor to see if I can program it to record the temps, and post here afterwards.

AFTER Gaming: Just before I started gaming again, I updated my nVidia drivers (fresh install), and the screen did NOT go black. So I was able to retrieve the HWMonitor results...

But the next time I played, BLACK again! Stuttering sounds. I must need to replace the TIM pads? Is this possible? I can only get about 20 mins tops with gaming before the thing goes BLACK. Unless I want to play in a walk-in freezer ...

 

I cut holes in the bottom case just above the fans (both) to allow MAX airflow.... but it still crashes after about 20 mins unless I crank the air conditioner in my room, and that makes my electric bill skyrocket! Even then I only get about 40 - 50 mins of play-time.
All these (assumed) over-heating issues began after the first time I disassembled my laptop to clean the heatsink.

 

Nice mod, I think though the problem lies in the GPU cooling off actually too fast and too much. The nVidia solder issue cropps up when the temps flex too much and too fast. nVidia's actual solution to prolong the inevitable is to just get the GPU hot and keep it there. Now the opposite side of this would to always have the GPU cool. Not knowing what temp threshold causes the issue there is no way to know what safe temp that would be.

Also once the cold joints start causing issuees it is an inevitability that the system will just keep getting worse untila reball is done. Problem there too is that it is not a 100% garentied fix. Some of the old media could be left over etc. The best solution is the P79xx boards but because of tthe age of the system and all the older components, this really is not the way to go.

The only reason to so so is if you just have to keep that 16x10, and preferably the 1920x1200. This primarilly being as you can no longer get a 1920x1200. If it were not for the screen my system would have been replaced long ago..........................

 

well if you cleaned the heatsink, and by any chance removed it, you have to make sure that the screws are tighten, if they are loose, then the computer will shut off because the cpu is overheating, and as a plus make sure that you use new thermal compund (i use artic silver) and by the way that same thing happened to me once, and the problem got fixed by tightening the screws

 

By George! I think you have it! I stopped using a desktop fan to cool the laptop, and I removed the huge "riser" to let the bottom of the case lay closer to the tabletop. And do you know what? The damn thing doesn't crash now! HAHAHA!! This goes against nearly everything I've learned and experienced about electronics and computer (that is to keep them cool!)... But if you're an XBox Gamer, you will probably experience the same kind of issues with some of their consoles. RRoD cuz of the crappy solder they used on their boards. NEVER would have thought a laptop would have a similar issue!

 

True, the norm is to keep everything as cool as possible. This though is a special problem. Just remember this is just a delay of the inevitable.

While still within opperating paramaters the solder is substandard and will still degrade. Hopefully this will give you a bit more time but just as in the reflow cure it will not last forever. The only real cure is a reball where the solder media is replaced by proper media. A fairly expensive fix and still iffy at best as you then have to go by how well the tech doing the job is at getting that old solder out and doing the job properly.

Another cure is to replace the GPU chip with another version. This also requires having the vBios as well. I think this already has been accomplished. In my earlier, and more enthusiatic, days I would have jumped at the chance but I am way to lazy now.

Lastly you can replace the main board. Another board equiped with a 8xxxm will eventually have the same issues. A newer P79xx baord with a 260m would eliminate the solder issue but has its own compatability issues.................