your GPU is what should concern most of you. 60C on a proc if I recall is the limit. I have never seen mine go over 50C.
the GPU however...the cooler the better. I have not had problems but I like to keep it sub 70C if I can
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thermal threshold on T9300 is 105C. -
Happen to know the threshold of the ACPI? The TZS0 in particular, I get weird spikes up to 98C when I play games sometimes. But they must be spikes because I can never see the temp up that high, I just see it as the max temp sometimes on HWMonitor.
And I'm kinda lazy, but I'll try that sidebar temp setup with the free Everest when I get a chance. -
as for TZS1 (again for the 6860's) i believe that it is a temp sensor close to the northbridge. -
Naa, all the other temps are fair to really cool compared to what others have reported for this laptop.
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i must say that this is not the case, if you'll run a gpu only intensive process like folding@home gpu client you'll see that there is no connection between the tz0 temp and the gpu temp.
as to cpu/gpu limits diablo is right on. -
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thats easy to check just unplug that cooler and see how low you can uv
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Yeah I plan to do it when I can put my CPU out of service for a while. Trying to do too many things to afford running orthos and risking a BSOD.
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Bright Morningstar Notebook Enthusiast
Quick question, I know you should at the very least prop the back up when gaming. But if you're just typing notes or browsing the net, would leaving it on a flat surface be ok (Table or so, I know not to use it on a bed or anything)?
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yep it should be fine, just make sure youre not blocking the vents left and rear right.
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Bright Morningstar Notebook Enthusiast
k thanks
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Stock CPU, Idle=19C, Orthos for 12 hours=32C. Undervolted to 0.9V no errors
GPU Stock clocks idle=44C, ATITool stress test=78C
Have replaced stock thermal tape with Tuniq T-2 thermal grease. -
Run a 3DMark06 on your machine before and after, because RMclock isn't detecting the actual processor and is giving it a x8 multiplier instead of 8.5 like it should have. It's screwing your performance big time.
I wouldn't undervolt this system atm. It already runs really cool (depends on system apparently) and you take a big performance hit. -
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Seriously, those of you with stressed usage below 60C live in the depths of the cold Canada or something.
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1 - Unplug and power off laptop (seems common sense but I thought I better include it). **Edit** and unplug the battery
2 - Unscrew the SODIMM memory panel on your laptop. This is the big one near the battery with 5 screws.
3 - Remove the SODIMM panel, it will pop out easily. Make sure you keep the screws safe.
4 - In front of you will be the Northbridge and CPU under two thermal spreaders (square pieces of metal) connected together via a copper pipe, which is in turn connected to a heatsink in the top left hand corner assuming you have the battery furthermost away from you when looking at the laptop.
5 - Begin loosening the screws on the Northbridge and CPU. To prevent unequal pressure you want to loosen one screw slightly, move to the screw diagonal and loosen slightly, move to a new screw and loosen slightly, loosen the one diagonal to that slightly and then repeat from the beginning until the screws are out. Once done on either the CPU (or Northbridge if you started on that) then move to the GPU (or the other way round) and do the same thing.
Remember to keep a hold of the screws again!
6 - Hold the heatsink and heatpipes next to the CPU and Northbridge, lift up slightly so it is clear of the CPU and Northbridge and begin lifting and angling away from you at the same time. This will allow the actual heatsink in the top left hand corner to fit out of the case without bending it. Think of it as opening a book whos spine is pointing away from you.
7 - You will notice some grey goo on the heatsink/heat pipe where it made contact when the CPU and Northbridge. This is the old thermal tape which you will want to rub off with isopropyl alcohol. Isopropyl is the safest, if you use anything else like meths then don't hold me responsible.
Don't touch the surface with your hands once cleaned as you will get skin oil on it which is not a great thermal conductor.
8 - Once you have cleaned all the old thermal tape off the heatsink/heatpipe do the same thing to the CPU and Northbridge. Remember you are touching some pretty delicate electronics so use a light buffing force.
Again don't touch the surface with your hands once cleaned.
9 - There are several ways to apply thermal grease. Here is how I apply:
- Get a thin plastic bag and put a pin heads thermal grease on the bag. Use this to rub into the heatsink where the Northbridge and CPU will make contact.
- You will use you finger in the bag from the other side rubbing it into the metal. You do not want to see any thermal grease left as more than a slight discolouration on the heatsink. The objective of this stage is merely to prefill in any microscopic flaws in the heatsink.
- Place an amount equal to 1/3 a grain of rice of thermal grease on the CPU and Northbridge. Spread using something with a sharp flat edge such as a credit card. fitting in a credit card is a bit difficult so you might want to find something a bit smaller. Remember you dont want to drag anything hard like a screwdriver across the CPU and Northbridge cores - silicon chips easily.
- When you have finished spreading the thermal grease it will be almost traslucent - less is better by far. If you screw up the first time then clean it off and start again. Just make sure the isopropyl alcohol has fully evaporated first off the CPU and Northbridge once you clean them.
10 - Now you want to do stages 1-6 in reverse. Remember to screw in each screw a little bit at a time them move diagonally to the next one and so on. Screw in firmly, you shouldn't be able to over tighten to the point you damage something unless you are really going for it
All done - you should notice a 3-6c decrease in temps if you have done things right. -
disconnect battery.
and it is not the gpu next to the cpu. -
Thanks, wasnt paying too much attention to the core markings at the time so it must have been the northbridge - which makes sense given the crappy thermal pickup it has. Will have to open the case right up to get to the GPU it looks like.
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may i advise not to take it apart?, some former fx users had caused serious damage to their machine while trying to see if they can take it apart, the gpu is far from being easily accessible.
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I did a full tear down with this machine..and the GPU is very difficult to access. I did make it, after entirely removing the motherboard from the chassis. I was disappointed to find that the time was wasted.. Gateway did a marvelous job applying thermal paste(not pad) to the GTS. They did the stripe and twist method. Im sure there will be small variances between machines..but I don't think it would be worth your time, effort, and risk. There's a lot of little screws to lose in this **** thing! I only had 3 leftover at the end..not too shabby.
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I have mine on a Antec notebook cooler. Sure the notebook is bigger than the cooler, but it still fits and worksMy idle temps are awesome: CPU: 25C, GPU:42C, HDD: 40C. Ambient room temp is 25.5C (78F). Stressing the notebook, I don't think the GPU gets to 80C IIRC. CPU... psh, it's in a class of it's own. I haven't seen it get near 60C TBH with or without a notebook cooler and sitting flat on a desk! The HDD is another story.
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Try orhtos to stress your CPU and then let us know about your CPU temps. I believe you will endup with high 60Cs.
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Meh... IMHO, I don't think I've ever encountered an app that is as brutal as Orthos (or Prime95). I find folding@home SMP to work well. I'll agree though that the CPU temp will probably be higher if I were to run Orthos. The only thing I really use Orthos for is for a "burn-in" when I build a new computer. Otherwise, not a good way to test system stability IMHO.
The P-7811 cooling and temperatures thread.
Discussion in 'Gateway and eMachines' started by Solitaryman, Sep 9, 2008.