Aero 15 X w/ 1070 Max-Q

My rule of thumb is download Geforce experience and Intels software updater. Let them update all the drivers they can, then bring in Smart Manager to install all the other drivers.

 

If you clean install, I think you can just download the driver from the Intel and Nvidia(especially if you have no plan of using Gigabyte Utility).

 

Maybe somebody found the right 144hz screen replacement for AERO 15x 7 gen?

 

Has anyone updated to the October 2018 update that was re-released a few days ago? If so, notice any issues?

 

What is QC/software like in Aero 15X now? Have things been ironed out?

There is a few Black Friday deals on the 15X now, but trying to convince myself whether it is better than going for the Razer Blade 15 - the latter has better build quality but the former has better battery life.

Keyboard issues still a thing? Do key's still pop out? What is the software like today? Thoughts on the track pad?

Thanks

 

I'm in the exact same boat as you. The Aero 15x is only $1750 right now on Newegg and everyone's warranty has been extended until the end of January of 2019.
I'm going with the Aero 15x and if I have any issues send it back and go with the RB15 since they never have any sales.

 

Razer just e-mailed discount codes for the Blade 15 today. £180 off in UK, not sure about US..

 

I updated to the October 2018 Update without any issues, it did revert my touch-pad drivers back to ELAN so I had to reinstall the Windows Precision Drivers

 

Hello guys,

I've bought my Aero 15X a week ago, and after spending some time to optimize it (tips from the Tuning the Aero 15X post), I am extremely happy with how it is performing.

That being said, I was wondering if there was a way to find out which components came with my Aero without opening up the bottom chasis?

It came with an LG display since it says so in my Pantone calibration .dll file.

Is there a similar method of finding out which memory stick and SSD are in there?

 

FYI, if you are still on the fence about buying this, I think this will make it for you. Is $1450 on ebay after rebate. Even at 1650 is a good buy
https://slickdeals.net/f/12309889-g...ssd-backpack-1450-free-s-h?page=2#commentsBox

 

I actually cancelled my Newegg order and got it on Amazon for $1700 yesterday. I also got a 2 year accidental warranty from Squaretrade for $137 bucks.
I'm having it shipped to an APO address so I'd rather only have to deal with Amazon if I need to ship it back for whatever reason.

 

Jumped on the ebay deal. After 5% samsung pay, 200 rebate, 5% credit card cash back it will run me $1289 for the 8750h, 1070 MQ, 512 ssd, 16GB, 144hx FHD panel. You can still get this for 1749 - 200 rebate on Adorama's site directly. No tax for most. There are a couple of cash back sites offering 5% as well for Adorama.

https://www.adorama.com/giba15xv8bk4.html

 

I'm Ever Hopeful - that at some point I'll be able to get the Aero 15x UHD I just bought working without issues in a stable manner that will allow me to get on with the video and audio projects for which I purchased it.

The first thing I did was to update all of the drivers and BIOS using the suplied SmartUpdate app, including the SmartManager. I then made a SmartBackup to a USB stick. This seemed to go fine as far as I was aware. I then cloned the 4 partions on the supplied 512GB Transcend TS512GMTE510T SSD card onto a 1TB Samsung 970 PRO SSD in the same order but stretching the C: drive to take up the additonal space, using Macrium Reflect Free. I then moved the 970 PRO into the M.2 slot that the supplied Transcend SSD had been in and added a 1TB Samsung 970 EVO into the spare M.2 slot, storing the Transcend in case things went pear-shaped at some stage in the future. This all looked fine.

While I'd got the back off, I also replaced the supplied Kingston CBD26D4S9D8ME-16 16GB SO-DIMM with a 32GB kit of Hyper X HX426S15IB2K2/32. This dual-channel setup is working fine for me so far although I haven't had chance to put it through any tests yet.

So now to the issues. The first thing that happened was that the SmartManager Fn+ESC (max fan speed) and Fn+F6 (turn off display) stopped working at some point, even though the SmartManager notification appeared at the top of the screen in the case of Fn+ESC. I managed partially to rectify this by installing version 18.0.2.8, which is later than the "Official Driver" (18.0.2.7) displayed in the SmartUpdate app. I say "partially" because it works most of the time but I found that on occasions the functions stopped again. However, if I did a Restart (not Shutdown) I could get the functions back again. Unfortunately, even the Restart has stopped wrking now - as the machine is booting back up again, I get the Gigabyte logo and the BIOS/Restore shortcut text across the bottom of the screen (F2, F9, F12 I think) but it then hangs at that point, requiring me to do a hard shutdown.

The next issue is that inserting a headphone TRS into the combo headphone jack doesn't switch off the speakers and doesn't send output to the headphones. I've also tried a TRRS headphone plug - no change. The Realtek interface displays a drop down asking whether the connection is a headphone or headset so it's obviously making a good connection but has no effect. I've uninstalled the Realtek app and reinstalled it - no change.

And the most frustrating issue of all is that when I launch Adobe Audition CC or Premiere Pro CC, I get an error stating that the Default Output Speakers (Realtek(R) Audio) are (Not working)! I've played around with the Realtek speaker settings but nothing I did resolved this issue. I really need some help to get these apps working, so if anyone knows how to solve this problem, I'd be very grateful.

My system is Win 10 Pro version 1803 build 17134.407 - the date is 19th Nov, which is before it was delivered to me, i.e. the initial install by the supplier, so I can't roll back to an earlier version as some people have suggested they need to do to overcome some issues.

Thanks for reading this lengthy email...

 

Is there are a way to disable installing of the power management profiles during SmartManager installation?

Looks like employees of the GIGABYTE are stupid. Why they are using hard locked frequencies for CPU in the power management profiles? Why only 3 power states are presented: 1.7 ghz - 2.6 ghz - 3.9 ghz with power saving/balanced/high-performance profiles accordingly? Why not used dynamic power states when CPU changes voltage/frequencies according to the load?

GIGABYTE Engineers - what are you smoking?

 

I just don't use the SmartManager profiles! I reset the Balanced profile, which is good enough for both battery and AC power, to default and use that. To control CPU states, I just use multiple ThrottleStop profiles.

 

I can't help with most things but on my system I went through and updated all of the drivers using smart update but when I updated Smart Manager itself it left the old version installed. I then removed this and at this point my Fn+Esc stopped working for the fan.

I resolved this by uninstalling the ew version of Smart Manager and then reinstalled it and it started to work properly again.

 

So does the latest SmartManager version (the one with the orange skin) allow you to run fans at max speed all the time? I downgraded to 7.2.9 because I thought they removed that option in newer versions of SmartManager (at least that was the case with my P35X).

 

Does anyone know what panel(s) the Aero 15x uses for its standard 144Hz 1080p model? I've looked through this thread for a bit, but there's a lot of information here.

 

I'm running v18.0.2.8 with the orange skin which I think is the latest version and yes, pressing Fn + Esc turns the fans onto Max immeiately an pressing it again puts them back to normal (or presumably their previous state).

 

The v8 models with the 1080p 144Hz panel use either the AUO82ED OR LGD05C0

Have a look at the first post of this increibly useful thread under display overclocking http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...5-w-x-v7-v8-common-problems-solutions.816143/

 

Thanks Ollie222 - I found the same problem with the old version being still installed and active after I'd used SmartUpdate to install v18.0.2.7. When I pressed Fn+F6 to switch off the screen, I noticed that it flashed off and then back on immediately afterwards. I concluded that the new version switched it off and the old version also received the same Fn+F6 so it toggled it back on again. I just uninstalled the old version and that fixed it for a while but the problem recurred so I installed v18.0.2.8, which seems to have fixed it.

As far as the problem with the Realtek audio not working with either Premiere Pro or Audition, I found a workaround that allows me to use the apps - I installed my Steinberg UR44 USB audio interface, which includes an ASIO driver, so the apps connect via ASIO to the interface, into which I can plug speakers and headphones. This doesn't cure the problem with the Realtek audio driver and it means I've got to carry a USB audio interface around with me, so if anyone has any ideas why Premiere and Audition don't connect with the audio on the Aero 15x, I'd be very grateful to hear them.

 

Anyone got the trouble with not being able to adujst Brightness with the FN F3/F4 key. or even do max fan spped.... I got last keyboard firmware and last Smartmanager version.

Support from gigabyte is no good and extreamly slow.

 

I noticed for myself that the smart manager functions dont work properly if i only use one. I need to use both in order to have options like (fans, performance etc) to respond correctly which is super annoying. I noticed this as I was trying to uninstall the blue variant (v3) but couldnt so i uninstalled the orange/black. Any way around this? Any way to uninstall both variants? I can uninstall the orange/black on but the blue V3 i dont see any options anywhere!?!?

 

Well, my Aero 15X died in it's 1st anniversary. Grey artifacted screen+scrathing noises before dying. Now it doesn't even see the boot logo. Just restarts every 2 seconds.
SSD and RAM stick in another laptop and it seems they are fine so the problem is something big.

RIP, it was good while it lasted. But never in my life i have seen a laptop coming coming from technical service and still operate functionally.
Shameful honestly that a 2k$ device dies in a year.

Just another reason to stay away from "gaming" laptops i guess..

 

As I understand you have a two-year warranty on it?

Send it in, they will change the whole motherboard for you if necessary. I was previously on a laptop that had something like a 7 year warranty, they had to change the motherboard 3 times. Comes back good as new.

 

Help

I re pasted my laptop and now it won't boot. I'm getting no LEDS, can't even get the the splash screen.
The Magic 3r3 Inductor is hot to the touch and so is the surrounding area.

I have already tried pulling the battery. I'm guessing the motherboard is fried?

 

I hope that's the case for me. I use my laptop for work and I'm currently looking for a temporary solution.
I tried calling customer service yesterday but they were closed. I probably won't get a RMA started until tomorrow.
I'm currently using 17" Sager from 2016, great specs, but not very portable.. Considering a Surface GO for a cheap temp substitute.

Very disheartened right now. I've put a lot into this laptop; additional NVME and RAM.. I purchased Fuji Poly pads and Kryonaut for repasting. I thought I did a good job and then the laptop won't even post.

The heat spot/area on the motherboard may have existed to some extent since I purchased the laptop. I just didn't notice it.
The laptop always ran hot. I know it's normal for a laptop this size. But my unit never really felt right. I did the standard unvolt
with repasting.. My temps were good for normal use,but get into games and I'm 83/91 CPU/GPU.. That's the other oddity. My
GPU always hit 90c no matter what. I've seen/read many reviews with opposite numbers 90c-CPU and GPU in the 80's. I wonder
why that is?

Anyway.. I'm under a year into my 2-year warranty. I purchased the 15X as soon as it was available. Hopefully Gigabyte holds up their end.

 

I'm having issues with my browsers and lag with hardware acceleration disabled. With it enabled I see no lag at all, but because of video playback issues and after googling it seems the only fix is to disable hardware acceleration. I just want to watch 4k video or even 1080p video fullscreen without stuttering and lag. Even typing in the address bar produces lag. It's quite annoying. How do I fix this? Should my aero be doing this? I've kind of searched around looking for the answers to this but can't seem to find anything and this forum I trust to be the most knowledgeable on most things.

 

mine has AUO If you download and install AIDA64, you can know yours.

 

Just picked one of these models up, now that the prices are coming down to make room for the GTX 2000 series version.

Coming from a similar heavier machine (with non-maxq 170) with not as great of battery life, I like most everything about this laptop. Backlight bleed from the frame isn't great. This machine is surprisingly quiet under stress testing - I expected louder than my old laptop that has lower dB ratings on notebook reviews, but this one is actually quieter to the ears. Haven't tried my own meter.

My initial testing was to see what the battery life numbers actually look like with consistent, IDLE type loads. True battery life is variable once you use certain applications, video decoders, etc. I have the 4k, 8750H, 1070 model. Numbers were logged every 10 seconds, averaged over 30 minutes on each test, with power settings adjusted accordingly to allow for a valid screen-time test.

2.8 Watts Idle, no screen, airplane, 1080p desktop resolution at 100% scale
4.7 Watts idle, 0% screen, airplane, 1080p desktop resolution at 100% scale
7.1 Watts idle, 50% screen, airplane, 1080p desktop resolution at 100% scale
9.8 Watts idle, 100% screen, airplane, 1080p desktop resolution at 100% scale

4.7 Watts idle, 0% screen, wifi, 1080p desktop resolution at 100% scale
7.1 Watts idle, 50% screen, wifi, 1080p desktop resolution at 100% scale
9.8 Watts idle, 100% screen, wifi, 1080p desktop resolution at 100% scale

4.9 Watts idle, 0% screen, airplane, 2160p desktop resolution at 100% scale
7.3 Watts idle, 50% screen, airplane, 2160p desktop resolution at 100% scale
10.1 Watts idle, 100% screen, airplane, 2160p desktop resolution at 100% scale

Overall, it looks like outputting the full UHD resolution only consumes an extra 250-300mW of power. It's nice seeing over 15 hours of runtime at no load. 10 hours should be easily possible for productivity work.

Temperatures are also generally good with the "Standard" fan settings. Stress testing with IBT, my CPU gets pegged around 50W TDP and 3.5GHz all-cores. With a 23C ambient, laptop flat on glass surface, I'm peaking at 74C on the hottest of cores. Running only Furmark also peaks the GPU at 76C, without too much fan noise. Furmark + IBT concurrently, I get 93C on the hottest CPU core (92 package) and 83C GPU - CPU is pulling back to 3.3GHz.

I think I'll enjoy the laptop as a gaming htpc and portable powerhouse machine. 2 year warranty + 2 year extension from credit card makes me comfortable enough with the machine.

 

I was monitoring via Throttlestop and my average is around 2W. It hovers around 1.3W to 2.4W with light web browsing.
No BT mouse connected, just WiFi and using touchpad. Screen at 30%.
Mine is Aero 15Xv8, 144hz FHD, extra RAM, 2x512 m2.ssd with undervolt -150v

My estimates say 8.5hours with light web browsing, but pretty sure 10hours may be squeezed out with lower settings. Still very impressive for a laptop with beast specs.

Also, how did you get 2 year extension from credit card if you don't mind me asking?

 

I had keyboard issues even after updating all the firmwares. Uninstalled and reinstalled Fusion, SMart stuff etc multiple times but didn't help. I had keyboard double entry, but booting up on Ubuntu, the issue disappeared. So I assumed it must be software related and not hardware despite being advised it was hardware issue and I need to RMA it.

Finally reinstalled clean windows and somehow my keyboard issues got resolved!

Battery life is approx 7.5 - 8.5hours with light web browsing, 30% screen and no bluetooth mouse connected. Undervolted to -.150v

 

The numbers you're seeing in Throttlestop is for the CPU (TDP) only. That isn't total system power draw. With a 94Wh battery, a 2W draw would give someone 47 hours of battery life!

My 15X already died (dead psu brick) - it was returned and I picked up the 1080p 144Hz model. I did run additional testing on this model, and tested running the screen at both 60Hz and 144Hz. Overall, the 1080p screen running at 144Hz causes the system to use a bit more power than the UHD/4K screen.


4.8 Watts idle, 0% screen, airplane, 1080p desktop resolution at 100% scale, 60Hz
7.0 Watts idle, 50% screen, airplane, 1080p desktop resolution at 100% scale, 60Hz
9.4 Watts idle, 100% screen, airplane, 1080p desktop resolution at 100% scale, 60Hz

5.4 Watts idle, 0% screen, airplane, 1080p desktop resolution at 100% scale, 144Hz
7.6 Watts idle, 50% screen, airplane, 1080p desktop resolution at 100% scale, 144Hz
10 Watts idle, 100% screen, airplane, 1080p desktop resolution at 100% scale, 144Hz


As for your last question: American Express or Citi cards will extend the warranty by another 2 years. Amex matches the manufacturer warranty and doubles it (up to 2 years extension max). Citi adds 2 years to any manufacturer warranty.

 

I rechecked, you are right, Throttlestop says 1.2W but other battery monitor apps says -11.2W to -13.5W is my discharge rate. So how are you getting 7.6Watts at 50% screen?

I just tried to do the same as you, with 50% screen, airplane, 1080p desktop resolution at 100% scale, 144Hz
Idle consumption wouldn't go below 11W. Can you please advise:

1. Any other settings that you may have changed to measure the idle power consumption
2. What app/how are you getting the 7.6 Watts idle measurement

Notebook reviewers did their test and the idle power consumption at lowest load is coming in at 14W, given I have Throttlestop I'd say 11W to 12W is doable, but 7.6W seems very low!
https://prnt.sc/mx427y

https://www.notebookcheck.net/Gigab...html#toc-energy-management-great-battery-life

Thanks!

 

Probably with Undervolting and some other optimization you can reach there (tho not that useful). I myself can only reach 8.9watt on idle with Wifi/Bluetooth off and around 50% brightness ( I use BatteryBar and HwINFO to check). Oh mine is also dual channel ram and dual ssd storage, so that may affect battery life a bit. I think only once I reach 5.8watt on the lowest cpu multiplier set-able on ThrottleStop.

 

I changed from 144hz to 60hz which reduced my lowest idle from 11.5W to 10.2W. I can't see it changing the battery life drastically though.
I have dual channel ram 16x2 and dual ssd 512x2 as well.

Changing CPU multiplier, is it recommended? Did you see much difference with the multiplier on/off in performance as well as battery life? Thanks.

 

Not really, I set it around 900mhz and the whole system stutter like hell. Frankly 10watts is more than ideal for this laptop, and you get around 5hour marks when watching optimized video with it (video with QuickSync support). Even when the system reach 7 watts, it will jump as soon as any activity detected, so it is kinda pointless for me.

 

I get a delay/lag when toggling fullscreen video (not only on youtube but also other streaming sites like Twitch/Facebook videos). Tried a number of things such as disabling hardware acceleration, switching browsers, disabling plugins, updating graphics drivers, disabling Nvidia Optimus, updating Adobe Flash, switching to dual channel memory, updating Windows, plugging in the power supply and changing screen refresh rates. So far, the delay remains the same and not even a slight improvement. I know its usually normal to have some form of delay but for a brand new laptop that is decked out in specs, it is unacceptable for it to be around 3-5 seconds of lag. Even my older laptops don't have this issue! Does anyone else have this issue with their laptop? It's not just me is it?

 

Hi everyone,I have question regarding repaste of aero 15 X v 8 4k, is it really worth it? I read that some users even with LM have still 90+ C temps.
When I play game like witcher on 4k highs I get around 91+-92 C on CPU, on idle on high on normal fan setting temps never get less then 50 C.
This machine out of the box was really nightmare, lag, frozing, hang I test the factory setting during 3 days until get blue screen and install fresh windows 1809 , but this also not resolved any problems, until I installed 1709 version, then this machine increase in performance.
The problem I have now is temps , and power limit throttling.
Any ideas how to solved this, especially temps to go down, I have available IC diamond but question is it really worth it ? Any user hacve done this before and can share any temps improvements, or any recommended setting ?

Thanks alot

 

Hey @abang81,

I had similiar problems with my 15x v8 4k. I could solve the temp problem by disabling the turbo with throttlestop. I can still play witcher 3 on 1080p without problems with more than 60fps in average and around 75 °C max.

 

Ok thanks I will try it

 

I second @drieschel. Repasting basically does nothing to this machine, the best performance improvement you can get is by undervolting. I have LM on my machine (installed by the seller) and I still hit 90C on basically any game. Without undervolt I can't play overwatch on high over 60fps without hitting 90C, but with it I can do high 120fps at about 80C.

 

See my post above.

 

Haven't posted in a long while. Bought mine October 2017. Posting because my 200W AC adapter brick that came with the laptop was malfunctioning. It would cause the laptop to pulse charge with the LCD getting brighter and dimmer every 5 seconds or so while the laptop would not charge until I shut it down. Then it would charge. I ordered one from Amazon and it arrived today. It's not the same brand but so far so good. So if your laptop started flickering bright to dim and charging on and off it's probably the adapter and not the laptop. Stay safe guys.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CXBWSPC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1