Gigabyte P34G

Hmm, something strange happens when I'm trying to play Deus Ex: HR Director's Cut. Everything is maxed out and Fraps reads 60fps, then after a few minutes fps drops to 40 and then gradually to 15. At one moment it even started showing artifacts (white dots) on one of the NPCs. If I hit Esc or Alt+Tab, fps jumps straight to 60, back to game, few minutes, dropping all over again to 15.

HWMonitor shows maximum temps of 89 for CPU and 70 for GPU.
What is happening? Is CPU throttling? How to resolve this issue?
Any help appreciated.

PS btw I'm using external 1680x1050 monitor via VGA port (output set to this ext. monitor only)

 

dubtail: I had to mess with the gaphic details to make Deus Ex work flawlessly. The most important factor for me was vsync... I had to turn it off, along with AA. Did you try to run the game with these 2 settings off?
I am having similar issues with F1, 2013... not as bad a FPS drop as you're describing, but I am getting short lag issues after playing for a few minutes. What's weird is that sometimes it happens, and sometimes it does not. It looks like if I do a fresh reboot, the game won't lag...

 

Guys!

I somehow f'ed up a BIOS flash and my unit is an expensive brick at the moment. I have attempted several BIOS recovery techniques for this brand of BIOS (AMI), but none have worked. I probably have to send it in for service, if I can find a Gigabyte service center in Europe.

However! There is one thing I haven't tried to recover the BIOS but to attempt this I need someone that still have the original recovery partition to take a look into it. Likely using a partition manager software and unchecking the "hidden" box/flag is all that is needed to be able to browse it from Windows. it can be hidden again and this should not damage anything.

It seems some AMI BIOS Gigabyte mobos have programmed the recovery stuff to look for a BIOS file on the recovery partition, at least on earlier models. If anyone still have this recovery partition, could you look into it and see if there's a BIOS file somewhere on it? If you find one, what's the path and file name? File system (FAT32/NTFS)? Any scripts/.bat-files? What OS did your unit come bundled with? I got the P34G-version without OS so I never had the rec partition myself so my idea of its contents is at best rudimentary.

It's a long shot, but it's only thing I have yet to try. Would be very grateful if anyone could check this for me.

Mac

 

My current drivers are:

Chipset: 9.4.0.1016
RST: 12.4.1066
IME: 9.5.2.1489
Graphics: 10.18.10.3345

It's prompting me to update the three to the versions you have installed.

 

Is the wireless card sold with the p34g by Newegg single band or dual band?

I keep reading conflicting things between this forum and other websites/advertisements.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834233025

 

New/Old issue...

I have an external monitor setup and im running microsoft visio. I have it set that it will run on the NVIDIA GPU instead of the intel gpu...

BUT, when I move the window around the screen it lags like crazy. I'm talking really slow.... The only things I have running are, Visio, Spotify, Outlook, and 9 tabs of chrome... This computer should be able to handle this flawlessly. Im using 30% ram, and like 10% cpu... Why is it lagging so badly?

P.s. The monitor I am using is an Asus 24inch 1080p monitor with a 1ms latency.

 

Wow im stupid... Ok well if you have your power mode set to powersaving it will make everything slower... IF it is set to high performance well, problem solved...

Now to fix these wifi adapter issues. I think it might have to do with the computer being so cold when I turn it on. I keep my laptop in the car overnight so when It comes out of sleep in the morning the adapter does funky things.

 

I can't say for certain what will be in that particular package but I bought a stock P34G-CF1 from here and it came with the Intel Wireless N 7260HMW BN which is single band 2.4GHz.

Others in the thread have opened their machines up and checked the model numbers, coming to the same conclusion. Search the thread for "dual band" and you'll find pictures comparing a stock wifi module and an ac module purchased as an upgrade.

 

Hello all,

Two questions

1 - I have a Sennheiser headset with separate speaker and microphone jacks, is there a way to make both work with at the same time with the single jack P34G. I bought a splitter and I tried just plugging that in with no success. I also tried just plugging in the microphone however it is not recognised at all by windows.

2 - I was thinking about buying a new power adapter, do gigabyte sell stock power adapters (I cant find them on their website) or can anyone recommend a more portable one and what would happen if I was to use a less powerful adapter (sub 120W), a drop in performance?


NB Im running windows 7

 

It seems really strange that the GB versions should be higher than those offered directly by Intel.
Also there is some inconsistency in driver dates. For example graphics version .3355 on my machine is dated 11/15/2013 but .3345 on the Intel site is dated 11/27/2013.

Interestingly, if you look on Gigabyte's P34G webpage under driver downloads, all of the listed drivers are marked 'beta' (albeit at non-current versions). Perhaps being a major OEM of motherboards etc., they have access to beta drivers and that's what they push through Smart Update.

I suppose the main thing is that I have yet to experience any instability or other obvious driver related issues with the versions I have.

 

You're looking for a 4-pole (or TRRS) splitter - that has the male plug similar to a mobile phone headset. A quick google turned this up although you should be able to find something for cheaper than that one.

I haven't actually tested to make sure this is what is used on the P34G though so can't say for certain it will work. If you have an iphone headset or similar laying around, you could test it to see if it works.

Wiki article

 

Turning off vsync and AA didn't help. Neither did rebooting. CPU heated up to 98C (max) according to HWmonitor. Is it normal at all?
Will try to play Bioshock Infinite, see how it goes.

Any other suggestions, guys?

upd: Bioshock plays fine, no fps drops, maximum temps: CPU - 98C, GPU - 81C.

 

I've noticed sometimes the Dolby and GeForce experience tray icons will disappear randomly, even if the related services/processes are still running.

 

There's a less expensive TRRS splitter here: http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-...8731268&sr=8-1&keywords=trrs+splitter

I'm getting one to try out.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

 

@ pr3dict

Just a general tip - you should never use a very cold (sub 7deg c) machine in a warm room for risk of condensation.

Let it warm up.

 

Exactly what I was about to post. When I picked up my laptop from the US on Dec 27 it was so cold from being in the warehouse - as soon as I felt it, I put it back in the bag and then my backpack to prevent condensation until it had reached room temp (like a photographer putting a camera in a plastic bag until it warms up - the water would collect on the bag instead of inside the camera where it can cause damage).

I've still been catching up on the threads but yesterday I actually tested my own splitter that I bought from eBay for 3.50 or so a few months back - worked great confirmed Stereo on headphones, sounds great - confirmed both Mic and Headphone connections worked no problems at the same time. I can try to find what one it was exactly if anyone is interested, but that isn't popping out at me when I search now. Edit: Here it is: http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5mm-male-...Tablet_AV_Cables_Adapters&hash=item5af99a74da



Every laptop I've ever bought (except for the UX32VD Zenbook which I didn't keep) has had the exact same power plug since my first purchase in 2003 - even the netbook - this one has it too - I think I'll definitely keep . I confirmed it works great with the compact portable Targus APA69 90W power adapter (which works fine on my 60W N10J netbook right up to the 120W N56VZ and G51JX even when gaming it has been solid and hasn't overheated ). Amazon has it for $20 on clearance: Amazon.com: Targus Compact Laptop Charger (AC) with Limited Two Year Warranty APA69US (Black): Computers & Accessories - Tip L106 is what you need. Will test it on my P34G while gaming tonight hopefully, but I think it should be good . Edit: Just tested it playing Skyrim for 10 mins on High Perf - worked great .



Have to say I'm really enjoying this thing, it feels luxurious to me, like the ASUS Zenbook did compared to the N56 - only even better. And the Zenbook was a power trade off - this one is even more powerful - big plus . It makes the N56 seem big and clunky while this one is refined. Really enjoying it - and we're making progress on the noise front - it's all looking up .

Peter

P.S. One thing I have noticed is that sometimes when I turn on the laptop while it is booting back up at the Gigabyte logo it will have weird flashing patterns on the screen (lines, random white bits on the screen) for 2 or 3 seconds on resume (probably from hibernation). I think I read somewhere else someone was having that issue too - has it gotten worse for anyone and caused more issues? Or does everyone have it a little at that time. Thanks.

P.P.S. When I first hooked up my speakers to the headphone port I hadn't changed anything and I found it sounding so muddy and unclear (I have a nice set of X540s with simulated surround and bass boost built in) - I tried the speakers connected to my bluetooth MW600 and it sounded great that way - I found the Dolby Home Theater V4 had been enabled by default - turned that off and everything was crisp and clear again . And really does sound great through the splitter btw, can't hear any distortion from it at all on my Sennhaiser PX200-IIs as I restested it now - back to work .

P.P.P.S. I tried a 100 mV dynamic undervolt and on the 5 minute CPU Stress test in Intel XTU passed but at 7 minutes into the 15 minute test it crashed (BSOD). Now with a 90mV undervolt and seems ok so far - I know some of you have -130mV set but looks like mine can't do that - unless I did something wrong.

 

How much of a noise does stock HDD make (if any)? Mine makes soft clicks when writing.

 

So the little stickers on my left wrist pad kept bugging me so I peeled them off. I mean just the plastic laminate that covers them. The problem with the specs sticker is that the black writing is on that plastic... Have a look:

Does anyone know if I can remove the rest of it and then clean off the residue?

 

So guys, how's the battery life according to your experience?

 

I resorted to scraping it off with a credit card. Dampening it with a cloth helped

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk

 

I always remove the stickers. If you go slowly, you usually can get everything. If you do have to scrape, use a soft piece of plastic like BlkKnight suggests. Sometimes alcohol helps, sometimes a tiny bit of vegetable oil or peanut butter, depending on the adhesive. You can use a non marking eraser to rub off any residue.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

 

No comment on the battery life, really?

 

I'll try those, thanks guys!

I can't really say much since I've been at home for a few weeks, but it usually lasted 3~4 hours at school on a custom plan(power saving on battery and high performance while plugged in).

 

0k, so my experience with this notebook so far.

It is a love hate relationship.

I want to love it, because it cost so much, but I find it amazing that it needs to be plugged in to be able to run games.

Gaming performance with the laptop plugged off is unacceptable.

I know im going to get a barrage of replies "check your nvidia control panel and make sure that the nvidia chip is the preffered graphics chip bla bla bla" just save it, already did.

I want a reply from people who OWN the laptop, have you experienced this?

Is there anyway I can get the maximum while on battery (like alienware does) I dont care if the battery lasts 10 minutes, I just dont want to be plugged in to be able to play games.

Also, is there a way to turn off the CAPS lock on-screen notification? (smartmanager)

Please only REPLY IF YOU OWN the laptop

 

Most likely down to the CPU being throttled on battery to 1.3Ghz.

 

I am feeling a bit dissapointed right now,

Starting to think I should have bought alienware 14 instead of gigabyte p34.

I can live with gigabyte's horrible touchpad, its less than stellar looks, and its flat surface-like keyboard,

But what I CAN'T deal with is not being able to run games while on battery.

Yes I verified NVIDIA control panel, the games "are running on nvidia graphics chip" and NOT on intelhd chip.

This laptop's gaming performance while on battery is unacceptable for the price tag.

Im getting basically the same performance from these 2 laptops (when not plugged in)

Any help??


Plugged in ofcurse the gigabyte is a monster, but for that I have a desktop. I dont want to be plugged in to play games.
I already e-mailed gigabyte and still no answer.
Any help??

 

I want to highlight the first part specifically. Realistically, the laptop may barely hit an hours worth of gameplay on battery. IMHO, I really can't see why you would want to play on battery with that in mind. I understand the convenience part, but realistically, it just doesn't work. Feel free to prove me wrong, though.

For the caps lock notifications: Open up smart manager and turn on the GPU boost if you'd like and then close the manager(completely optional, but preferred for newer games). Open up task manager and search for "gigabyte OSDV3" or something very similar to it and end the task. Your GPU will still be overclocked, but all the on screen notifications will now be off.
You can also turn off the OSD from starting up with windows on the startup tab.

 

I would be interested to hear how the Targus charger holds up with gaming. Thanks!

 

Just realized you added a Edit in the paragraph alreay, NVM.

 

Just received my machine after more than a months wait. It can't last ten minutes without some BSOD or another. Any idea on how I can fix this? I can't even update my drivers.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 4

 

Try doing a system restore? Windows 8 has a built in restore system if yo just search for it.

 

Thanks for your help Justin. I can't even set up Windows 8 for the first time use. Somehow I managed to get in, and am now attempting a system restore. Edit: system restore didn't work, does this confirm a hardware issue? So far the errors I've had are as follows:

- IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
- KMODE_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED
- BUGCODE_USB_DRIVER
- DRIVER_OVERRAN_STACK_BUFFER

All I asked Gentech to do was add an extra 4GB of RAM (maybe that's not playing well, has anyone done the same Black Friday Upgrade?) and update the Wireless card to AC.

If anyone can help, I'd really really be very grateful. I have no service centre in my city

Thanks a bunch guys

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 4

 

Sounds like Gentech didn't do a full burn in test. I'd call them asap.


Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk

 

Did the restore stop like midway or something? You could see if you can restore through one of the boot options, although I don't know which key you press to get in it. Other than that, I have no idea what happened. You can try calling gentech or gigabyte.

 

Sounds like a damaged RAM module to me.

 

Here's what it looks like now.

It's very hard to see unless there's light on it(like my flash). I didn't peel them off slowly so cleaning the crap off took a while... So annoying lol :/

Edit: Actually, it still is faintly visible without any direct light. I can't feel it when I move my palm over it, so its technically fine, but idk. Rubbing it with a wet cloth got pretty tedious so I kinda gave up

 

I peeled the stickers off mine over the weekend. A bit of denatured alcohol on a paper towel and the sticky residue came off completely in no time.

 

it looks way nicer without stickers

 

Thank you you for your help! Unfortunately, I live abroad and had to get this laptop brought over to me by a relative I doubt Gentech could do anything from India hahaha. I'll try calling them anyway.

Thanks again for your help, Justin. Nope, it managed to restore fully, then got a BSOD again when I tried setting up Windows 8 (for what must be the tenth time now)

Thanks for your help! Crap. Is this possible for me to fix by myself? Can I just pop open the back and take out the added 4GB or is it something more complicated?

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 4

 

Remove one ram module

Download memtest86 and boot from the cd.

Then swap the modules over and retest

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk

 

3:30 hrs on Power Saver with 70% brightness.

 

Haven't had a chance to do anything with the Fan Control lately but at least the initial changes help a bit.

I also posted an Gigabyte P34G Undervolting Guide - I included my results, what worked, screenshots of the resulting temps in side by side tests, etc.. I feel like there can be better results by doing more than just undervolting the Dynamic CPU Voltage Offset - if anyone has any suggestions that'd be greatly appreciated.

Glad the post was useful to you, it's hard to know on here if a post is read or useful or neither.

The charger continues to work fine, in regular use it's cool. To make sure it's good for gaming, I used it for a 3+ hour session later (Maxed out Ultra settings on Skyrim and Fan on Auto but no Turbo/GPU overclock and with my CPU undervolt) - the charger got hot but worked fine with no prolems. I've used it in the past playing on my N56VZ 120W completely maxed out and it was good there too, no complaints.

Kensington 33197 works great too, that one is 120W and you'd want an N3 tip to match this laptop - I keep that one at my work since it's larger than the Targus.

Thanks,
Peter

 

Has anybody else problems with the WiFi?
Like losing connection after some time?

And I have problems with the Ethernet, too... sometimes it connects, sometimes it doesn't.

Using the latest drivers.

 

Power saving turned on?

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk

 

Can someone with the 128GB SSD + 1TB disk configuration (most I believe) post information about the partition tables their computer came with? I'm trying to do a system restore, and I can't because it says the required partitions are missing. but I did not change the SSD partition table, only the 1TB partition table. I will try to recreate the original partitioning scheme, but it would really help if someone could check out their GPT partitioning on both drives and post what they find, with specific starting and ending sector information.

Thanks!!

 

Do you mean for the WiFi module?
I unchecked the "allow computer to deactivate this module for power saving" (or whatever that checkbox is called in English ) and I think it made it slightly better.

Or is there a general power saving mode? If yes, how do I deactivate/activate it?

 

New bios is available via smart Update (at least in France wich explain that bad english).

tested for...5 minutes : It seems that the fan problem is resolved (60° for CPU and the fans are off).

Although the freq limitation on battery don't seem to be resolved.

 

Yeah, there is a new bios update available. Fine tunes fan behavior, so hopefully this is a fix.

GIGABYTE - Notebook & Netbook - Notebook & Netbook - P series - P34G

 

What is the version number for this BIOS?

 

Answering my own question - .305
From the GB download page:



Nice to see they're listening to feedback.