Gigabyte P34G

Any chance one of you could create a rainmeter skin based on smart manager options? I would love to have a few buttons on my desktop where I could switch between power modes, fan settings, and ultra boost. Thanks!

 

I think i understand that much but in terms of the storage drive is it worth the high cost of SSD now. No doubt my system drive is SSD but i see you still have a 1TB HDD.

ps i think you meant your videocard is 760m

 

The cost issue is one you'll have to decide for yourself. For me it's not just about cost/gigabyte. It's about convenience. I opted for a bigger system SSD because I got tired of moving the user files around. For me, that was totally worth it.

I do have a 1TB HDD, but it's kind of just there. Everything I use on a daily basis is on my 480 GB SSD.

If you're asking whether to keep the 128GB system drive and replace the 1TB HDD with an SSD, I'd say no. Max out the main drive with the SSD, and use the other drive for miscellaneous storage. This is my 5th machine with a dual SSD/HDD setup, and I found I prefer a bigger system SSD.

 

Please , i'm sure that someone can help me.

Thanks

 

I think this happened to me when mine first arrived. Before powering on for the first time I plugged it in and I didn't notice the charging light come on, it came on when I turned the unit on. Since then though I haven't seen this happen.

I say "think" because I don't remember how long I waited between plug in and power on. I notice now it takes 2-3 seconds for the charging light to come on when plugging it in, but I'm pretty sure I waited at least 8 seconds that first time because I remember looking around the unit for a charge light (I didn't know it was in the front at the time).

 

Smart Manager ultra boosts the GPU to 849 MHz on extreme setting.

 

now you got me hunting for a replacement mSATA...how'd you transfer your files? did you have an msata enclosure and use EaseUS?

beat Bioshock. wow phenomenal game. now on Bioshock 2 but not by ken levine so thinking about skipping to 3.

 

Don't skip it I really liked it. You get to play as a big daddy and run around and smash everything.

 

I didn't transfer anything. I used the gigabyte recovery tool (the downloadable one, not the F9 one) and did a clean install.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

 

Hey guys!

I finally got my laptop back with a replaced motherboard and RAM module.

After updating to 8.1 and installing all my necessary programs (not even the big ones yet, all my games and photoshop yet to come) I've realised that my SSD is already 60% full. Does anyone know how to migrate User Profiles and all documents so that they automatically sit in the D Drive (HDD)? My first time having an SSD/two hard drives/any form of Windows 8 ever and I'm so lost.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

 

Right-click on "My Documents" in Windows Explorer, click 'Properties,' then move it to the 1TB HDD D: (by default) drive.

 

Since you've already installed stuff on the SSD the simplest way is to move all those directories (programs, documents, etc.) to the hard drive and then symlink to them from the SSD (essentially you create a shortcut from the SSD to the hard drive so that things "think" they're installed on the SSD).

Here's a link:
Complete Guide to Symbolic Links (symlinks) on Windows or Linux

In my case I almost always create a d:\Apps directory where I install things rather than in \windows\program files, but symlinking is a bit more transparent and elegant.

 

just noticed my laptop asking me for my wifi password all of a sudden. then again today! I GAVE YOU THE PASSWORD 3 TIMES NOW!!

WIFI seems to be default off when I boot up. I can't seem to turn it on with the win8 switch. When I check Smart Manager it is "on". I have to click it off and then on before the wifi is on. The Fn-F2 doesn't work at this point. When it turns on I have to input my wifi password even though it's already set for connect automatically.


Oh yea not skipping bioshock 2 after I saw i got to be a big daddy!

 

B'midbar bro, I did that initially but thought it would cause issues later. Is it really that simple with no drawbacks?

Thank you for your help Mize! I'll look into symlinks for 8.1.

More observations:
1. It now actually gets warm rather than staying completely cool as it did before giving it to the service centre, even with a small load. When I opened up the back, I wasn't sure what to look for asides from dust. Is thermal repasting meant to be visible or is it below the heatsink?

2. All my programs are installed on my SSD, but I finally started putting documents and files on my HDD and I've realised that during the two hour transfer the HDD has been clicking incessantly. Not sure if this is the click of death or not, because the clicks sound identical to my external HD (that is transferring the files) although more frequent. The HD is almost 4 years old now and is still running smoothly. Any way I can find out if my HDD is faulty without sending it back to the service centre? They were extremely unprofessional, even with my last issue.

Thanks again guys, I really appreciate all the help. Apologies for the noob questions

 

No need for symlinks. Windows can handle it without those. I pulled this process from this guide: http://www.overclock.net/t/1240779/seans-windows-8-install-optimization-guide-for-ssds-hdds

Move user folder locations to Secondary HDD:Go to your User folder.Right click your user folder you want to move (ex. the "My Pictures" folder).Click "Properties."Click the "Location" tab.Change the destination to another location bu clicking "Move..." and selecting the destination (ex. "D:\Pictures").
Note 1: If there are two of the same folder in the User folder after the move (ie. My Documents "A" and My Documents "B") you should delete the empty one located on the C: drive. (May need to go into safe mode to delete it) Do not delete the other User folders, only duplicates that come up after the move within the User folder.
Note 2: If the folder already exists that you are linking it to you may want to merge the folders.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

 

Yes, see Xerloq's response above.

 

Hey all,

I am new to the whole SSD + HDD thing as well. Currently I have all the Windows 8 stuff on the SSD and Ubuntu on the HDD (grub on SSD). I plan to be in Ubuntu 80% of the time for development purposes and just normal usage, but I want to keep the Windows 8 partitions intact, I am not looking to completely destroy it.

What I am unsure of is.. should I install Ubuntu on the SSD instead? The only reason I see to do that is speed (I don't think there is any other reason?). So my question is, would I really notice much of a difference in speed while using Ubuntu if it is installed on the SSD? Or does it make sense keeping it on the HDD? I would have to shrink the Windows partition of course so that leaves just about 50GB for the entire Ubuntu installation.

Thoughs? Thanks!

 

Thanks B'mid and Xerloq!

More and more (minor) issues cropping up. Adjusting brightness (through keyboard, smart manager and even taskbar) does nothing. It just stays the same.

My WiFi kept switching itself off, and now it isn't even there in Network Adapters. Bluetooth and Ethernet still there though. Tried switching it on and off, tried updating driver through Windows Device Manager, (the card is still there even though it isn't in adapters) nothing. When updating Intel Proset Wireless through Smart Update yesterday, the update finished 4 times (4!) but then whenever I opened Smart Update it would be blank under current version and prompt me to install the same update. I left it because it ultimately started working fine but now these issues.

 

While I don't have a P34G yet (I'm just about to order one) I'm in the same situation. My plan is to nuke all the existing partitions and fresh install Win 8.1 to the HDD then install Ubuntu to the SSD. Doing it in that order stops the Windows messing up the boot partition as it never plays well with other OS. I use windows so little nowadays that I'm not really interested in getting a speed boost from it and it uses up so much of the SSD space.

The speed increase from a SSD is definitely noticeable when I upgraded my current laptop from a fast 7200RPM drive to a SSD.

 

I just posted similar problems. I think you need to reboot to fix the brightness problem not being adjustable through function keys. Wireless adapter also for me now keeps losing my saved profile and won't respond to function key or win8 switch. Likely Intel takes over completely.

Don't use smart update for the Intel drivers. For the most part smart update is not uptodate. Newest version is 16.7 or 16.8 I think. It will be blank because it probably doesn't recognize newer drivers.

 

How would one go about installing Windows on the HDD? I'm not going to buy my own copy of Windows so there would have to be a way to use WIndows Recovery and direct it to the HDD, is that possible?

 

Has anyone compared both the default P34G Intel Single Band 7260 and an Intel Dual Band AC 7260 Wifi Card? I don't think I've read anything like that in the thread, but is it worth upgrading to the AC or is the card otherwise limited so it can't supply that throughput without having other Wifi connection, or Bluetooth issues?

Whether you have single band now and are looking to future proof when upgrading to Dual band or Dual Band AC or just be able to connect anywhere that offers both 2.4GHz and 5GHz signals - in people's experience is it worth paying $20 to upgrade to the Dual Band AC card or is it just asking for more problems?

Thanks very much,
Peter

P.S. I'm glad for all those who found the $10-20 Slim and Light Targus AC Adapter I recommended useful for them, it feels good to suggest something and know it helped someone .

 

I've not had the "pleasure" of installing Win 8 yet but the process should be pretty much the same as Win 7. Here is a link to the process ( How To Install Windows 8 or 8.1 From a USB Device) and it's a lot easier than it seems. Download the windows 8 iso and copy it to a usb drive using a Microsoft tool. You can find your cd key on the windows 8 sticker on the bottom of the laptop.

 

You had a Windows 8 sticker with a CD key on it? What manufacturer does that? ASUS and Gigabyte certainly do not. You would need to use a tool to find the key before you uninstall and make sure your Windows 8 installer is the correct type (Core, Pro, x32, x64, etc...)

 

I had that on my 7 year old HP, but no sticker on my P34G. And with the fresh install method I take it you would be losing Gigabyte's preinstalled software like Smart Manager.

I see Windows 8.1 has the option to backup the recovery partition to USB ( see here) but it looks like you can't redirect it to the drive of your choice.

 

How to find your win 8 product key ( How To Find Your Windows 8 or 8.1 Product Key)

 

You tell me.

 

Thank you for your reply.

However you also reported that bluetooth was taking 1-2 minutes to connect after every boot, which I have not experienced (have you also stopped experiencing that now with newer drivers?).

I've been trying to find any good reviews or comparisons or benchmarks across the cards in different situations but haven't been able to unfortunately.

I am asking if people are having issues with one and not with the other or, if lacking an AC or dual band signal, the single band performance is worse in people's experience on the AC card (I'm not saying it is) - that sort of thing - that's what I'm trying to get at .

Thanks,
Peter

P.S. To respond to something you asked some time ago, I had a small ding on my bezel near the upper left corner from almost the first day (if not literally day one itself) - I am quite careful with the laptop and I wondered where it came from and I noticed it quite a bit because of lighting the first few days I had it, but now I hardly notice it anymore.

 

My problem on Bluetooth connectivity at boot has gone away with updated drivers. Again, per previous, I use the Intel update utility directly and not Gigabyte's SmartUpdate.

 

intel update utility is not that great tho as it doesn't seem to recognize my chipset among other parts...

 

Has anyone used this software with the P34g yet?

Notebook FanControl
[Vorstellung] NoteBook FanControl (NBFC) - ComputerBase Forum

I dont really want to flash the bios because I use my P34g for work.

 

Is it worth getting a AC1900 router right now? I still can't figure out the use for it in a home network other than streaming (which I don't need). There's a great sale on a Nighthawk and trying to figure out if it's worth it. What would you guys need the high throughput for right now considering a typical internet provider can't provide these rates. If I am a typical user who just games and downloads stuff is spending 150 worth it?

My internet is FIOS and my download is only 18.7mbps

 

Alas, if you lose your recovery partition and need to start again, YES you can find your windows key in your BIOS using deep reading tools; NO you can not download any of the available Win8 or Win8.1 ISO's and reinstall. Unfortunately you need the special OEM Build, and maybe even one specific to Gigabyte. I definitely tried and tried. If ANYONE has found a different experience, a WIN8 ISO you can download from the web that is compatible with our OEM BIOS windows key, please let me know. I'm currently stuck in Win7 (which isn't that bad actually) and will end up paying retail for Win 8 if I need to.

Note, in talking to Gigabyte, they would be happy to take my computer and re-image it. No Thanks! For $100, it's not worth my time to be without my computer for XX days and have to re-install everything.

Mike

 

There was some discussion in pages past and in this thread.

I don't think anyone successfully implemented it though.

 

this is great i was just on slickdeals asking people why they buy a $200 AC1900 router that is on sale for $140. I basically was curious what it's practical use was for most consumers on SD as I know they are all just typical users. I'm getting explanations like we have multiple devices in the house, better network coverage, speed boosts, but no one can explain why they need an AC1900 vs a regular old N300/600. Maybe one person who said he streams movies off his server. Seems like everyone just bought it because it is the newest, nicest, and most expensive router. I did a lot of reading on smallnetbuilder and there really isn't a practical need for AC1900 right now and N300 or 600 is sufficient and if you really want AC then AC1200. I'm just shocked how people don't realize this.

 

Mjlawless

Check my post on the p35k thread. It's in the last few pages. How to clean install windows 8.1.

 

The reason to have it is if you have a home network and are transferring large files back and forth to a home server, even for streaming movies it is overkill.

 

people are telling me upgrading their router has increased their ISP speeds. what??

 

More efficient hardware can let you better utilize the ISP bandwidth, but it won't increase the speed. I picked up one of the AC1900s for better range and because we do stream large movies wirelessly.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

 

Co-rrect. There's 'x' amount of bandwidth you get from your ISP, 'y' amount from your cable modem or router, 'z' you get from your card. My NetGear R6300 wireless AC router and Intel AC7260 card on my notebook just let me get more of 'y' and 'z.'

 

Received PowerTraveller PowerGorilla portable laptop charger. It's heavy (700 grams, 24 oz), but charges the laptop fine at 16V. Found both tips to charge the P34G and the tip to charge the PowerGorilla with my Kensington travel charger so I only have to travel with one brick. Hopping on the first of two back-to-back long legs tomorrow, but the documentation for the charger says it should give my notebook battery two full charges. We'll see how well it goes on the outbound and return flights. Outbound legs I'm going to run Power Saver battery scheme, see how many bars (out of 6) I go down on the PowerGorilla. Return legs I'll see if I can run at High Performance all the way back and how much that takes.

 

Oh that's cool please let us know how it performs. are those travel chargers sufficient replacements for stock charger? What's the difference other than weight?

 

Speaking of chargers, does anyone know the charging etiquette for these modern day laptops. I know it used to be something like if you always charge your device when it reaches 50% it will be trained to not last much longer past that point. Now I'm reading nowadays it is the opposite, it is better to not let the battery discharge completely.

Does anyone know what is best? Does it even matter?

 

I dunno, I read up on it but no one ever seems to agree. I've decided to just leave it plugged in at home or when gaming. If you do drain it, you should start charging at ~20% like most lithium ion batteries.

 

Does anyone have/used the i5-4200h version of the p34g? Do you suspect it'll be a big drop in the performance from i7 and would it possibly increase the battery life by at least a little bit?

 

Source? I've read some about that in car electrical systems, but then you wouldn't want to charge to past 80% either in those, though depends on the particular system, and that can be great for battery lifespan but you've cut out 1/5 of your battery runtime from each cycle (almost 2/5 if you do it on both sides) and there an easy way to force your laptop not to charge to 95-100% unless you unplug at 80% increasing the # of cycles... I'll give my view below based on my understanding, if I am wrong, please correct me guys.

You should not let the battery drain to near absolute 0 or it may not be able to make the reactions that allow it to rebuild a charge across all cells. Typically systems are set to hibernate at a low level to prevent further power use and give a small reserve so you can boot it up and realize it is unplugged and then either shut down or hibernate again to prevent data loss without a hard stop. Some people would keep turning the system back on until it was completely dead and that kills batteries.

However if you use the battery when you do not need to, you are using some of the limited charge cycles it has (I don't know the rating on this particular battery that the P34G uses, does anyone? It would be typically measured in hundreds of cycles.). If you are going to be using the laptop for more than a few minutes and you have an opportunity to plug it in, I recommend you do so. If you use a partial charge that's only part of a cycle rather than entire one and the battery should last longer than if you decided because you used a few % you should take it all the way down. Notice the battery does not always charge up to 100% but may stop between there and 95% - that is smart, since it helps prolong battery life.

Every few weeks, do a full cycle of the battery to calibrate (use from 100% to 5% or so). Some people think it's a good idea to do that with every cycle and I disagree as it is using up more cycles than necessary and may be leading to frequent deep discharges on the cells that will reduce overall battery lifespan.

I'm glad to battery is located in the front of this laptop rather in the back near the heat sources. That should help prolong the life of it, especially since it is not removable.

If I'm wrong on any of that (and I very well may be) please correct me.

After a month of use, when I first got my laptop it was reporting a 7% wear level - now it's down to 1% (both values as reported by CPUID HWMonitor).

Still really enjoying this laptop, does everything, use it at work (it's noticeably faster than my desktop and 1 year old 7lb Dell workstation laptop there), using it right now at home in my bed, now silent except under heavy load and giving me 4 hours on a charge and able to leave it unplugged on standby for 12+ hours without using too much juice, small enough to toss in the bag and use easily on the train or plane and still game at max when home. Ideal in almost every way, I was looking at a Razer Blade yesterday and can't believe I actually considered getting one . Very happy with this thing

Peter

P.S. Appropriate Undervolting helps all this by reducing power usage and heat.

 

I have both windows and ubuntu on the ssd. Both have 60gb and that is fine for my purposes (60gb is not a lot for windows.....). I basically use windows 8.1 for playing some games and MS Office (11gb free, having hibernate off, with both skyrim and deus ex installed) and ubuntu for everything else (40gb free with matlab and a whole bunch of other apps installed) . All my documents and movies etc are on the HDD (ntfs) so I can easily share those between windows and ubuntu and use symlinks to have easy access in \home. 60gb is a lot for ubuntu, and I would not know how to fill that space with apps.

Having both windows and ubuntu on the ssd is really nice, I can switch between one or the other in 20seconds.

The image shows how partitioned the SSD....

 

Thanks for sharing that. I went ahead and installed Ubuntu on the SSD instead of the HDD as well and it definitely makes a world of difference. Boot up dropped from ~25 seconds to ~5 seconds. I did just like you and deleted the 20GB Recovery partition but left the first RE Tools partition (sda1) in place.

Have you had occasional touchpad problems? There have been a few times it does not work on bootup. It seems to be reproducable by shutting the machine down completely then booting directly into Ubuntu. It is discussed in the comments here.

 

Sorry it's just a hit and miss bug on boot when it detects hardware, plenty of google stories about ELAN touchpads and linux not detecting it sometimes on reboot.