***Gigabyte P35X owner's lounge***

If you are referring to the P35x then the battery is the 75.81 Wh. For the gigabyte p34 (the 14 inch model), there is an option for the 61.25 Wh. battery

 

Still has the same feeling as before: it's a fantastic laptop but require a lot of work if you want it to run exactly how you like it to. Trackpad is not good, cursor jump a lot when you left-click or right-click, double-tap doesn't register half the time, definitely use a mouse AT ALL TIME. I plan to repaste next week, and it hasn't have BSoD since I update the Intel Chipset Driver.

One thing I still haven't work out is the mDP port: every time I plug in the mDP-DP cable to connect my monitor, the laptop's built-in display change resolution to 1024x768, and monitor received no signal. It worked flawlessly on HDMI-HDMI with 2560x1080 resolution in extended mode, but my HDMI cable is oh-so-thick. I know least one person on this thread got it working, so I'm still trying to figure out why.

Something I didn't mension before is that the connection ports (USB, HDMI, etc) is slightly tighter than my other laptops (an Alienware, a HP, and a small brand), especially the Kensington lock, I couldn't use it because the lock on my cheap Kensington cable is too bold it won't fit. It fit on my Alienware and monitor otherwise.

Oh and if you want to switching ODD to HDD (or the other way round) on the fly, not gonna happen: you'll have to restart the laptop every time to do the switch.

Regards

 

So i just tried to order it to Germany from overclockers.co.uk and it was a chore.
I couldn't get both paypal and amazon payments to work. When it finally worked with their internal credit card system I've got an email from them asking for utility bills, credit card invoices AND an ID !
WTH? Am i buying a notebook or plutonium?
At least the customer service was ok and canceled my order and refunded the money. I had to order it in Germany and i hate the German keyboard layout...Anyone know where i could get a replacement US or UK keyboard?

 

Try Ebay, but oem parts are very scarce for a new product, maybe wait for a month or two.

Regards

 

So would the laptop run better if I got the killer internet card instead of Intel?

 

You can swap ODD and HDD/SSD on the fly without restart. I did when I had the laptop. It worked fine.

Sent from my Nexus 5

 

Never had any problem with Intel WiFi card, nor did I with the Killer card in my old Alienware.

Regards

 

Interesting. It asked me to reboot the systen when I swap the ODD with HDD.

Regards

What I meant is to get the HDD appear on My Computer to use it. You can indeed physically swap them on the fly.

 

Odd, mine always just recognised it without the need to reboot. Never asked me to restart.

Sent from my Nexus 5

 

Don't use the Smart Control Switch. In Smart Control it should always be configured as ODD.
Just swap the Drive physically.

 

Yeah it works flawlessly without using smart manager. Not sure why smart manager has the option, it doesn't seem necessary.

Sent from my Nexus 5

 

Anyone seen it for sale anywhere?

Sent from my GT-I9300

 

It seems like p35x v3 launched today, zillion news on the web about it.

 

What do they mean by launched, that gigabyte finally shipped them?

 

^^ probably to US resellers.

 

I arrived back at the house only to find a letter from Amazon. I usually never get letters from Amazon. I immediately thought it must be them asking for money for the Samsung 850 Pro. Relieved to find out it was just them offering me a 30 day free trial of Prime Instant Video. Phew! Safe for now.

Sent from my Nexus 5

 

That's Alienware though and not gigabyte. What wifi card do you have in your gigabyte laptop now?

 

Intel's

Regards

 

No problems with it?

 

For those who can, P35X V3 is available at ldlc.fr in France (I think they ship all around europe)

 

I may be that other person you speak of. My Samsung 4k display worked fine with nothing special done. If there is any troubleshooting or setting checking I can do just let me know. Can you try connecting to another DP device just to see if maybe that display has an issue with the cable or laptop?

I have given up on the Intel 7260AC card. I already have my Killer 1202 card in hand and plan to upgrade to it this weekend and throw the AC card in the trash! I have had problems with that card across several laptops and several routers this year, and I'm tired of trying to fix it. It disconnects and more irritatingly it completely stops working. I have to either reboot or go to device manager and disable and re-enable to get it to work again.

Funny thing is yesterday at work on my Lenovo T540p my Bluetooth mouse stopped working, its done this before. I have to reboot to get it working again every time. I decide to go look at what card is in there, guess what, an Intel 7260AC lol. I can't even get away from it at work!!!

 

I am really grateful for you guys, I was bit worried with Intel AC card as well, as it is a new standard. I guess ordering it with a Killer is a must.

 

Sorry to hear about your troubles, I'm definitely getting the killer card then.

 

Like I said before, I have not encounter any problem with my Intel WiFi card.

Edit: @dajohu I used that monitor with my Alienware via DP-DP, it works fine. What version of GPU drivers are you using? Both Intel's and Nvidia's.

Regards

 

Good to know. I think I'll still opt for the killer card as people have had problems with it.

 

Intel may be 10.18.10.3958 according to device manager
Nvidia is 344.80

I have to say that during all my different OS re-installs and different driver versions, at no time has my mDP failed to work.

 

Been following this laptop for a bit now. Anyware.fr just increased the price with €200.

 

Anyone tried using Panasonic 9.5mm BD writer for the swappable caddy?

 

I am using the Killer card for the past year, works like a champ.

 

This makes no sense, my Intel HD drIver is 10.18.10.3960. Would you happen to know if the mDP is on the Intrl chip or Nvidia chip?

Regards

 

To my knowledge all displays come off the Intel. It can be verified by looking at device manager viewing "devices by connection", both my internal and external are off the Intel, and nothing off the Nvidia. Also there are no display color/resolution controls at all in Nvidia control panel.

I really wonder if you have some odd compatibility issue, or maybe your port is just broke.

What setting do you have in the "monitor switch" section of the smart manager? I use mine on mini DP only but it also works on LCD and mini DP. Probably a long shot but wondered if maybe yours is stuck on another setting and causing the problems.

 

Nothing in the Smart Manager works, Intel HD Graphic Control Panel doesn't even recognise the monitor through mDP. Guess I'll have to use the bulky HDMI cable for the time being.

Regards

 

I can't remember if you already tried another cable? If not, it could be as simple as the mDP connection not being good with your existing cable.

 

The 980m model is 2230 euros... Could have better bought the CF1 from OCUK when it was 1750 pouns (=2220 euros), have it a month earlier and have a better cpu at the same time. Now the OCUK CF1 is sold at 2099 pounds sterling... Wat ._.

Sent from my GT-I9300

 

The XMG P505 with 4k and 980M and 16gb of ram is 2070 euros, though without hdd, ssd and windows.

I really want schenker to start selling the P35X V3, because you can shave off a good few hunderd euros by getting it without overpriced and crappy hdd and ssd's and windows, all of which I already have. I can get genuine windows for free from a friend and i will buy my own ssd, thank you very much. I don't want gigabyte to put in and charge me for two crap 128gb msata ssd's which i will max out when i dont even have a quarter of my steam library installed and i dont want an HDD ever again. Savings will go towards an 850 pro 1TB or an MX100 512 GB and some msata ssds down the line when i max the MX100 out.

Sent from my GT-I9300

 

If I remember correctly, the 980m on XMG P505 (Clevo P651SG) is 4G DDR5 VRAM instead of 8G, any performance difference would caused by this 4G VRAM lack?

 

Maybe next year or the year after there could be a performance difference as new games start using more VRAM, at the moment I don't think there's any games that need more than 4GB - although there's a few that would use all 4GB of VRAM. But, it might just mean that all you'd need to do is turn the Texture Settings down from Ultra when those crazy VRAM hungry games come out in a year or two. (You get severe stuttering & fps loss when you run out of VRAM).

 

One of my SSDs broke down today



Not sending it back for RMA though, I'll replace it myself with some faster SSD(s). The question is to RAID0 or not to RAID.
Some say SSDs in RAID doesn't gain a performance in daily life, only in seqential read not random 4k, and some even say that RAID0 slows down daily life performance.... Not sure what to do.

 

I use RAID0 on my SSD's, but not for better performance but rather to just have one larger drive. Simple and it works. I haven't had a drive failure often enough to even make that part of my decision, by the time I have had failures they were 5+ year old drives that I was only using for secondary machines anyway.

 

Yep, I've read the same, only really helps the sequential transfers, and can hurt random 4k slightly. Unless you're constantly transferring large files to & from your SSD's then I would run them ACHI, that way you don't have the data loss issue if one of the drives dies.

 

Freekers - I never ever use raid0. In a previous post I explained why it's not a good idea, how you are not really getting much of it and it's just doubling your chances of hardware failures.

Raid1 (mirror) in this case is my choice.
Is it even an option on the P35X V3 BIOS ?
Good luck !

 

You could maybe just send back the drive without having to send back the whole computer? At least then you could get a spare even if you want to replace it with something better.

 

For gaming, the speed of Raid0 SSD is overkill. However, for creative applications and video editing, this read/write speed (about double that of single SSD) is tremendously helpful to reduce the time to complete tasks. Fast sequential read/write speeds are a gamechanger when working with extremely large files in Photoshop, Premiere, etc.

My envy 15 came factory installed with dual Intel SSDs configured in in Raid0, and so far they have lasted nearly 5 years. I don't believe I've ever had a mechanical HDD that lasted that long.

 

A bad drive is a bad drive, what can you do about it, and considering the average lifespan of Samsung 840 EVO (cheapest SSD pretty much) is 19 years, I think RAID 0 setups are pretty much ok in terms of reliability

 

RAID 0 do increase the speed at the sacrifice of storage space (1T+1T = 1T raid 0), and safety of data, since one drive down means all you data are gone (this is because raid 0 write "half" data on each drive, so if one is down, you only left with a driver of useless "half" data).
If you want to secure your data, try raid 1.

EDIT: raid 0 is still 1+1 = 2, increase the speed, but double the risk of loose data. raid1 is 1+1 = 1, slightly read performance improvement, more safety for the data.

 

RAID 0 doesn't sacrifice storage space as the data is just striped across both drives, it's not duplicated in any way, that's why it's more susceptible to data loss, because if one drive dies it renders the data on the other drive usless. RAID 1 sacrifices storage space, you end up with 50% of your original storage space, this is because the data is mirrored on each drive, so you get some increase in performance and increased data reliability (because if one drive fails you just wack in another one, no data loss) but you lose storage space.

 

Anyone know if it would be possible to put a another battery in this laptop? Maybe in place of the optical drive or the HDD slot? And if you could fit one in would there be a place to plug it in to the motherboard, or could you tie it in with the other battery somehow? I know the Lenovo thinkpad has like 2 or 3 batteries in it so I thought maybe it might be possible.

 

It might be easier to find a external battery bank on amazon/ebay that charge the laptop through power plug.

I guess you could try use a small internal battery and splice the wires to the battery connector, but that's a lot of risks and might not even fit into such thin chassis.

Regards

 

That's kind of what I was thinking just a small 4 cell or something just to get another hour or 2. Pretty sure I could rig it to fit, the only thing im not sure of is how I would get it connected. Is it possible to splice the wires before the connector? Not sure that doing that wouldn't cause the battery to explode lol.

 

Just make sure you wear suitable PPE, like a hazmat suit. Oh, and have a replacement house ready. You can never be too prepared.