***Gigabyte P35X owner's lounge***

Glad to hear it worked out for you.

Copper itself is not a bad thermal conductor, in fact, copper makes brilliant heatsinks, but the best way to use it is NOT to sandwich the pannels.

Yes, NEVER use superglue!

Regards.

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

 

Look at this thread and this thread, and I think you will see that there is nothing better than Liquid Ultra or a comparable product such as Phobya Liquid Metal or Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut. Follow directions very deliberately and it should go well. DO NOT apply liquid metal thermal paste to anything except the GPU die and the mating surface of the copper plate on the heat sink. You're very fortunate nothing got shorted using copper shims on multiple components. That could have ended badly, but I am very glad it did not.

 

I'm having a problem with my laptop sometimes randomly shutting off. Doesn't seem to matter if I'm on the desktop or playing a game or idle. Any ideas?

 

That could be a number of different things. Are the CPU and GPU temperatures OK when it shuts off? The first thing that comes to mind would be a thermal shutdown, so I would see what the CPU and GPU temps are doing if you are not already certain about that.

 

Hmm, as long as your Temps are ok, have you checked to make sure your battery isn't draining while plugged in? You could also check the battery connections, but I don't actually know how the battery is connected.

 

i took the back off and everything looked alright i sprayed some canned air into the fans a little bit of dust came out and i put it back together and I haven't had the issue since. It might of been thermal but i thought the windows logs would catch a thermal shutdown but maybe not.

 

Hi all, I'm looking for a bit of help here.

Got my P35x v3 a couple of months ago and I've been loving it; unfortunately a week ago the touchpad disappeared. To begin with it stopped working but was still listed in the mouse control panel hardware tab; on reboot it was gone from there too.

It's no longer listed in device manager, except when you view hidden devices; then it's listed as an Elan Input device and the status on the property tab is: 'This device is not present, is not working properly or does not have all its drivers installed. (Code 24)'. I've had a look inside and the ribbon connectors all look okay. I've tried various suggestions to do with uninstalling and reinstalling drivers, all to no avail.

At the time it failed I was working on it (not gaming); it was running Window 10 Insider Preview build 14257; I've flattened the machine and tried reinstalling various OSes from scratch Win 8.1, Win 10 version 1511 and Win 10 IP build 14257, and the touchpad isn't available when booting from DVD or when any of the OSes has been clean installed.

I've flashed a MODed version of the BIOS to enable the "hidden function" option and can see nothing that would indicate the touchpad had been disabled at this level: I'm no expert when it comes to BIOSes so I could have missed something.

And I've made sure that the Touchpad is ON using fn+F6, and run the Windows hardware troubleshooter (which always recommends a restart which resolves nothing).

The only hardware change I've made (and I did this the day I got the laptop) was to replace the internal 1TB HDD with a 1TB SSD; around the time the touchpad disappeared I unplugged an external drive from the USB 3.0 socket which supports charging, but I can't say that the touchpad disappeared at that exact moment. I'd also just set up a 2GB RamDisk to use for Visual Studio caches and run the Windows App troubleshooter which screwed up a temp file location.

I'm hoping I've overlooked something simple and really don't want to take it back to the dealer if I can avoid it: I've lost enough work time as it is :-(

Thanks,
P.

 

Friendly Reminder to do some basic maintenance on your machines bros- yesterday i took mine apart because of worse and worse throttling, and my heatsinks were absolutely CAKED in dust. I used compressed air regularly on this machine, but about a third of the heatsinks were still blocked. There was also a lot of gunk on the fan blades, on both sides of the fans, that i had to clean using a hard brush.

This time i repasted with Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut and, if there is a difference between TG and Liquid Ultra, i haven't noticed it. Been playing Witcher 3 for more than an hour without throttling. Definitely a great, safe, although slightly awkward to use, alternative to Liquid Ultra.

 

Sounds like the pad is dead you might need to RMA it.

 

Alright, looks like my "solution" for the 'video tdr failure nvlddmkm.sys' BSoD was not actually working, I've beem getting them in the last few days and revert back to 8.1 is not longer a option (I'll have to reinstall everything).

This BSoD mostly occurs when I run games with Nvidia gpu, and other times just using video player while set the Nvidia control panel preference to "high-performance nvidia processor". It would appear that the display drive will stop working as soon as I put the 980m under load, and instead of restart the gpu (like it were in 8.1) the OS went into BSoD then shut down (or staying on the 100%ed BSoD with fans at top speed.

At the moment I'm setting the preferred grapgics processor as "Auto-select", and disable the 980m from "Device Manager" if I need to do work without unpredicted surprises.

Will update about this issue if I find any working solution (eventuallt, hopefully).

Regards.

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

 

If you're under warranty, might as well send it in...that's the exact same error I had when my 980m went belly up. Eventually I had to disable it in the bios to get it booting at all.


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Bummer... I'd been hoping to avoid that

 

Hey guys! Ive found something im pretty exciting about. http://www.amazon.com/LC05-Cooling-...ie=UTF8&qid=1455981153&sr=1-1#customerReviews
It has Hundreds of very positive reviews and im hoping it will work for my P35xV3. I'd like to get 2 of them.
My CPU is usually not throttling due to heat, almost always 3.3 in games but the temps are always borderline around 92c under supreme load. My poor GPU though is getting up to 86c in most games. I just dont understand why since I used both articlean, and GC extreme for the millionth time.
Also does anyone know if their are higher power internal fans I could provide?
Can I add another heat pipe?
I have loads of time as Im recovering from a major surgery I had Feb 16th.. The 3rd Ive had since a major accident on septemeber 23rd.
Thank you all, you have all been infinitely helpful and a valuable, friendly resource

 

That's an interesting bit of kit! People look like they've had really good results, I would probably buy one if my laptop was overheating (I don't need it though). I did notice that the mounting system underneath the laptop looks like it could partially block the intake vent of a laptop for laptops where these are located underneath.

 

That is true, but there seems to be many other intakes. I can also cut slits in the mounting block with my dremel to match the intake below. I'm excited and im ordering 2! I will be sure to let you guys know how they work! I have a good feeling they will help all of us. Also got a 4 usb hub.
Be here monday 22nd!

 

I finally had the courage to repaste my p35x and the results are absolutely fantastic. No thermal throttling anymore and my fps went up by 100 in csgo! I used gc extreme

 

Hey guys, got admitted to the hospital due to surgery complications on the 21st and just got out yesterday.
Hoping to try the opolar coolers soon though if im able. Plan to post results before and after using gc extreme as TIM and notepal X3.

 

Got both installed! First off they seem to be a quality product, they do not feel cheap.
They have automatic mode and then manual which is up to 5k rpm.
Testing it on Crysis 3 at 3k and everything but AA maxed in the most demanding area with all the grass before dual opolors temps were up to 84c GPU and pretty well stay there.
After them, on automatic temps may get to 83 but are easily brought down to the 79c-81c range when the opolors kick in more.
Im noticing that the thermal pads Im using are too thick and the heatsink is not making good contact and the screws are very difficult.
The thermal past on the GPU was not even spread out properly by the heatsink pressure.
I checked clearances as far as if anything was wedged or in the way and nothing. It just sits too high with these pads. That is with some rather firm 1mm Phobya pads.
I just ordered some Arctic 0.5mm pads and a fresh batch of GC extreme to correct this.
That said I highly recommend as many OPolor coolers as you have exhausts. Outstanding results and I havent even cranked them up on manual yet
EDIT max temp 78c in Crysis 3 maxed no AA. Thats with manual max speed dual opolor. Absolutely amazing with the afore mentioned pad and paste problem.
Rise of the Tomb Raider 76-78c

 

so you changed the thermal pads from 1mm to 0.5mm on the gpu heatsink?
Is 1mm pad the stock pad?

 

I replaced stock pads (unknown thickness) with some firm 1mm and its too thick. tomorrow im going down to 0.5 and expect much better contact across the entire heatsink.
The temp drop has nothing to do with the thermal pads except for the fact i expect temps to be better with proper thickness pads.

 

Hello Key7795,
This may come in useful:
https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showpost.php?p=28284435&postcount=66

I am currently using the Arctic Themal Pads 1mm, 6.0W/mK.
They can be compressed into smaller thickness with pressure, unlike 7.0W/mK that I tried in the past.

I tried the 0.5mm versions too, however I feel I had better results with the 1mm. Saying this, you may have a totally different experience.

Best


Sent from my mobile using Tapatalk

 

That is very useful information, thank you!
The 1mm pads im currently using simply lack any compression or tackiness (tackiness not necessarily needed but worthy of mention)
I know the arctic 0.5 will be much better than what I currently have for contact. Im glad to hear of your success with them. I am curious why you feel the 1mm were better apart from being the stock size? I do however feel if the 1mm pads i currently have would work absolutely fine if they compressed at all.
Just waiting on the mail man hahaha
EDIT
New pads and all is well. Sitting right.
No CPU thermal throttling in Crysis 3 and max temp of 78c on GPU. Max dual Opolor, Notepal X3 and GC Extreme.
Now to load up my 1300/3000 vBios
Ill see how that does then try 1329 core.
1300 core was max and wasnt stable in every game. Probably back off memory clock from 500 would stabilize better but eh another day.
Currently seeing what I can do with the CPU while the GPU is at stock clocks.
3.5 GHZ sustained in Crysis 3. Good stuff for keeping things smooth when particles and physics show up en masse. Temps just below throttling at full load sustained. Nice to see a smooth line in a XTU in Crysis 3 at 3.5 in this little inferno of a laptop

 

Hey all, im having a bit of a struggle repasting.

With all the screws of the heatspreader loose, i cant seem to get it off. Maybe its because the vram pads are too sticky? Should i replace those after i rip them off or can i use them again?

 

There are 7 (numbered) screws on the heatspreader, and you might try to lift it slightly from the heatsinks then from the heatspreader. As for the tapes, they can be reused as long as they are not torn, folded or drastically stretched.

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

 

cool, got it working. the factory paste job was so bad, very similar to cakefish's when he showed his stock paste job, with TIM spread all over the cpu (as in, twice the size of the cpu die itself) and a lot of gum smeared all over the edges of the gpu.

dont have much reference, but I remember when playing gta V single player, cpu was throttling at about 2.5ghz at 95C and the gpu was hovering around 1000mhz at 87C (appearantly the thermal limit for the 980m). Will test in a few minutes what temps are now.

during reassembly, some peice of plastic (which is on the under side of the heasink fins, probably to prevent air from slipping by, but it made the reassembly rather difficult so i just jammed it in there) got stuck in between the fan and heatsink at one side, but i didnt care to remove it and repaste, its very minor, well see how it works out.

 

by the way, I used the pea method on the square GPU and the line method on the rectangle CPU. TIM was GC extreme.

most games were running at 95C when downclocked to 2.6GHz, sometimes a few % throttling even. Let's see how it goes!

 

As long as you don't spread the paste by hand, either method is fine. Let your machine run a few hours under load before benchmark so the new pastes can settle down.

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

 

Wow, in gta V the CPU runs at 90C at 2.6GHz instead of 95C and the GPU runs at 1200/3000 at 85C instead of 990/3000 at 87C. This is amazing!

i turned on temp, power, voltage and utilization limit in afterburner though and i do seem to get either gpu utilisation limit (when running at 99% but not at fully overclocked speed of 1261) or gpu power limit. what does that mean?

 

by the way, I noticed in GTA V, GPU memory usage never goed above 4 thousand something or 41 hundred something. how can i test if i even have 8gb or vram?

 

fire strike score is 9222, anyone can compare?

This is with cpu at 3.6GHz and GPU at +135 / +500. The cpu doesnt even throttle! But i do see the gpu being power limited... Maybe time for an undervolt of the gpu? My cpu is already undervolted and stable.

EDIT: actually, on the second run it is 9252

 

Im getting 9382.
Thats 1266/3000 on the GPU with 20% more power so it doesnt throttle. 3.5 Ghz on the CPU. -50mv
GPU max temp 78. CPU max temp 91
Dual Opolor, Notepal X3, GC Extreme.
I also have a 200w Aorus power brick for the extra juice
EDIT
Arthedes, undervolting your GPU wont help you unfortunately. I put extensive time into making a vbios with the least amount of voltage possible per clock. Oddly enough it didnt even run cooler. It also will definitely not alleviate power throttling. You need more watts, not volts.

 

Where did you find your new adapter?

Can you increase the power in the vbios or is the only way to alleviate power throttling using a higher wattage adapter? do you need to mod the vbios as well then to accomodate for the higher psu rating?

Kinda saw this coming when i saw the 180W adapter on this machine...

 

You have to email Aorus. No other way to get one. They will end up sending you an invoice to fill out, you'll send it back filled out. Then they will process everything and ship it to you. I forgot how long it was but I know it was atleast a week or two. It came nicely packaged with lots of bubble wrap inside, and the outer box had red Gigabyte tape all around the edges.
Once you have more watts available, you have to tell your GPU. It's Vbios is set to pull a certain amount of watts so you have to increase it.
Also you could try limiting the CPU to the base clock of 2.5ghz. Im not sure how many watts it uses when it turbos, or if it changes at all though.

 

Ill try to downclock the cpu. Think it will lower the scores rather than increase it though...

Seems a kind of tedious way to get a better adapter. Is the circuitry in the laptop even up to it?

My max temps are like 83C GPU and 92C CPU but im not using a cooler, what are your max temps when flat on the table? This is my very first repaste and would like to compare against your numerous tries.

Also, can you explain me what the utilisation throttle means? That the gpu is capped and throttles because of that or does it not throttle then? Why does it throttle when the gpu is fully used?

Does it mean it is bottlenecked by the CPU?

 

The CPU draws 20 watts less power when running at 2.6 GHz instead of 3.6, but it doesnt seem to allocate those spare 20W to the GPU. it lowered scores to 8485 tho...

Its probably hardcoded to use a certain amount is what i would conclude from this. would like to see what results we can get if we can fully utilize the 180W brick. Cant beleive it draws 180W and still power throttles even while the cpu uses 20W less...

IIRC the CPU is rated 47W and the GPU 100W, which would leave 33W for the rest of the system. Should be more than enough with only a led backlit screen, 2 ram sticks and a SSD. Would love to be able to play with the power allocation.

 

20 watts less, that is very interesting information.
It was tedious but I found no other way. Except buying an Aorus lol
Your temps sound great without any cooling and I would be happy with them.
I'm curious if those are your max temps in a very demanding game such as Crysis 3, Rise of the Tomb Raider etc maxed out. Eeking out frames in the 30s and 40s at 3k maxed out.
Before the coolers and pad my temps were in the 81-85c range on the GPU usually. Cpu in the 2.8 ghz to 3.3 depending on how I did with my repaste but always in the 90s. Theres a lot of variables though with load, and time under load for heat saturation. Also if im playing a less demanding game like Battlefield 4, I lock it to 60 fps and that decreases load further.
As far as if the system can handle the 200w brick. It could be 2000 watts as long as it has enough amps (and more amps is not bad). Whats very important is the 19.5 volts, and then of course the connector.
However more watts does increase heat but thats why it can throttle. Just my take on it and from what Ive learned by research.
How it throttles though as you say is strange, but I think the power draw increases exponentially on the GPU when overclocked.
Also, you asked about utilization throttle. I'm assuming youre seeing that in GPU Z? If youre seeing that it means the GPU is not being pushed to the max at that time. It will say separately if you power throttle or thermally throttle.
EDIT
Just saw how you said it didnt allocate the extra watts when downclocking the CPU to the GPU. The vbios in the GPU is set to only let it use a certain amount no matter the availability until we change it. I knew this but somehow forgot in that scenario.

 

Yeah that's what I thought too, seems logical.

True about the extra amps not doing any harm (did some research when i needed to borrow my laptop with a friend's charger at campus: as long as it is the same voltage it wont do any harm when charging or running light loads), but im not concerned about the CPU and GPU which will throttle itself but rather the circuitry in between that and the PSU, which is designed with a 180W PSU in mind and not a 200W or 2kW lol. The extra amps at the same voltage when running heavy loads would mean higher power going through all the resistances, resulting in more heat output etc etc. What's your experience with it?

Yeah, those low temps were during benchmarks, but when playing the Witcher 3 outdoors 1080p ultra (with some settings and AA off, framerate is 45+) my CPU throttles itself to about 2.9-3.2 GHz running at 95C and the GPU hits the thermal limit of 87C, throttling to 1240-1180 (i have it set at 1261). Getting both thermal and power throttling there. Indoors is Vsynced at 60Hz.

Haven't had the chance to test many demanding games yet. WOT used to run at 2.6GHz but now doesnt throttle my 3.6 GHZ OC nor my GPU. It utilizes 1 core only and runs at 60 most of the time but can get into mid 40's because of said single core usage. War thunder wont wont max out my system at all but used to throttle to 2.6GHz but now i can run it at 3.6.

GTAV used to run at 2.6GHz barely and hit the thermal limit, now i can play at 3.2GHz with the same temps. GPU gets up to 87C, thermally throttling as well as power throttling but now downclocks to about 1200GHz instead of 990 in the past (checked that right before repasting)

Overall I'm very happy with the repaste: my cpu is running 200-1000 MHz faster at the same temps depending on the game. didn't monitor my GPU speeds that much in the past because I figured the thermal limit would be much higher than 87C and it didn't throttle, but on some games it truly does run 200mhz faster on the core.

My goal is to completely avoid thermal throttling my GPU at 1261/3000 and my CPU at 3.3 GHz (at 3.6 GHz it uses more than the 47 artificial TDP limit and throttles to about 3.3 GHz due to power throttling). Don't really care about power throttling yet because I'm not ready to mess with bioses yet, and first thermal throttling must be addressed.

 

-
Ahh I see what you are saying about the circuitry between the main components which we cannot monitor. I dont know if they heat up or degrade due to more amps being available and/or watts being drawn. I also dont know if more amps are ever even drawn, though available. Ive been using my 200w for maybe 2 months now and no known problems but thats hardly conclusive I suppose.

If eliminating thermal throttling is what you want then I can definitely help you finish that problem. I had suspected those temps were not during heavy load though I had hoped for the best for your sake.

With my current setup my CPU never thermally throttles, and even under the heaviest of loads my GPU does not exceed 78c.
That is with A Notepal X3 sitting on the box the laptop came in. But the cooling pad is absolutely embarrassed by my Dual Opolar LC05 Coolers. They are basically 5000 RPM vacuums that have a silicon shroud that fits over the exhaust. They seem very well made and I believe are lifetime warrantied. The results I have had from the 2 of them are stunning compared to the few degrees C I was trying to eek out with repastes and cooling pads ( I tried 3 and ended on the Notepal X3 which is nice but only drops temps a little bit)
They are about the same volume as the laptops fans when cranked up but a nicer sound if you were worried about noise. On automatic they are much quieter though, and still dont let temps rise above 83 or maybe briefly 84 before bring them down to 81 for a bit. I tend to crank them up on manual and that is where the really good results come from.

Eliminating the heat build up at the exhausts and in the heatsink seems to allow it to pump the heat out way better.

I think I'm going to test how my FPS is with the CPU at 2.5 if it uses 20w less I can give my GPU. I wonder if it will impact FPS to run at 2.5ghz.
With my custom vbios giving 20% more power I still get slight power throttling in extreme scenarios in the GPU down to 1240, and I think maybe one clock below that very rarely.
Goes to show just how much the power requirements ramp up when overclocking the 980m.
EDIT
2.5 is a no go. Was playing ROTTR and there was an explosion, lots of fire and bad guys and things going on, CPU utilization spike to 100% and FPS dropped like a rock. Briefly but it happened.

 

Ahh I see. Thanks for the good intentions haha!

I've read a while ago about those coolers and they seem to have a good effect. It will be interesting to hear what your temps are without any cooling aids though. That's what I'm going for at least.

What I found with 2.6GHz (ran that for a good part of a year) was that most games seem to be bottlenecked by the GPU. Until something CPU intensive happens that is, because then the framerate takes a hit and the bottleneck is the CPU.

Valley benchmark at ultra no AA and native res for example doesn't give a **** whether the CPU runs at 2.6 or 3.6 GHZ, but I an imagine some CPU intensive games being bottlenecked in some situations by the lower clocked i7

To fine tune this system and to get the most our of it is kind of frustrating and kind of rewarding at the same time. I cleaned some dust out and repasted the (TERRIBLE) stock pasting job and now my laptop is much faster. It's really interesting to see what you can do to improve the thermal and power limitations!

 

By the way, what's your idle temp? I seem to remember mine was about 50 when it was new. before the repaste it was 60 and now it is 56...

Also, what do you guys have set the default Physx processor to? Auto select, GPU or CPU?

 

My idle temp is around 50 if I havent played a game or something. If I have, then 58-60.
It is amazing the amount of tinkering I've done with this thing. I'm just glad I'm the kind of person that likes that sort of thing lol
I cant say I havent had some regrets when I see the big Asus/Alienware/Clevo etc laptops with such better cooling.
But I still love this laptop, the 980m with the beautiful 3k screen and the clean simple design. I really wish I had a v5 though with the better cpu. The 4710 is alright but its the bottom one... Really wish I could change it!
I've considered selling it, probably get 1300 or 1400 I guess. But I dont know what I'd get. The desktop 980 laptops are so enticing but all of them are around 3000$ 0_0 And I cant go back to 1080p so that makes things more difficult..

 

Well guys, after a whole lot of flashing and editing Ive come to the conclusion that the extra 20w from the Aorus adaptor is simply nowhere near enough to overclock without power throttling in extreme situations and even some moderate.
With 20% added to the GPU running 1266 core, both the CPU and GPU choke when they come under full load and down throttle severely. I was only able to add 5% power to avoid this, or downclock the cpu to the point it cant handle extreme physics and gaming.
This is all very confusing, but clearly the wattage requirements when overclocked of the system are far above what I can provide, and ramp exponentially.

Now, if you dont play ridiculously demanding games maxed out like my stubborn self you'll probably be fine, as the wattage draw wont be as high.
Does anyone know if magic powerful enough to combine my 180w and 200w exists? Please? I've heard of dual power bricks but dont know how that works.

 

Mine used to idle at ~52, newly pasted will change the idle temperature a bit and eventually settle down.

I set the physiX at auto since the video processing of this set up is quite confusing: heavy load done by dGPU but everything video-related goes through iGPU. I remember set it to either before but it caused problem with framerate.

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I remember some guy with a clevo or alienware did a dual power brick mod. Can't link it but google should provide you with some good search results. It did require a lot of soldering and such so I would be careful with that.

How long does the GC Extreme need to settle down?

Physics set at auto seems to result in framerate issues, setting it to either GPU or CPU manually solves most of the problems but some games like it set to CPU and others like it set to GPU. My guess is that the framedrops from setting it to auto is because the system needs to determine what chip to use while setting it manually allows the calculations to be done immediately.

Yeah sometimes when I see i7 + 980Ti watercooled machines OC'ed and with glass windows and all I get really tempted to build a desktop. It's so frustrating that we are limited by a 180W power brick. I would love to tinker with watercooling and tweaking the system just right so you get every drop of performance out of your hardware, but sadly (much like Cakefish) I have no use for a desktop system in my life right now: I need to be at campus, at home and at my house and I would have to have to change files between a laptop and a PC. This is simply the best option for me and I'm really surprised at the performance I'm getting in this small, sleek package! In high school I used to dream about an i5 2500k + AMD 6950 machine haha and that's only five years ago haha! But still, I have 700+ messages on overclock.net since 2011 and here I am with a gaming laptop

 

Hmm interesting... my idle temps are 57 whether cold booted or after gaming. Maybe my GC Extreme needs to settle in or I have a new pasting job to do...

Would be really cool to see what temps you are getting without your coolers and just your laptop flat on the table. Could you play some games and register temps that way?

 

Cold booted my temps are in the 30s and 40s but that doesnt last!
I just played some crysis 3 without my cooling pad or opolors. GPU got up there to 86 and the CPU was able to hold 2.9-3.3
It doesnt get any more demanding than Crysis 3 maxed out at 3k so things got warm! Thats why I have so much cooling apparatus lol!
Im not sure if even a good application of Liquid Ultra could prevent thermal thottling without cooling aids in our laptops under load.

I understand what youre saying about needing a laptop.
My situation is different but my requirement the same. I was in a terrible motorcycle accident last september. I was doing everything right but they didnt see me. I was not at any fault.
Long story short, 5 broken bones, completely torn ligament, completely torn tendon, partial tears, nerve damage and a concussion without going into too much detail.
Im recovering from my third and final surgery currently.
Needless to say building a desktop, or sitting at a desk have not been possible. For a long time I had to either try and play games with one hand, or with the steam controller (amazing things can be done with that thing).
Im blessed to be alive with no major permanent damage, but its been an incredibly long 6 months and without a doubt the hardest of my life by far.

I cant tell you how many times ive been on pcpartpicker building 4k desktops with every possible configuration hahaha

 

Yeah my temps and clockspeed during gaming are about that too. Nice to know I don't need to repaste!

Sorry to hear about your accident, it sounds terrible. I hope you will recover soon!

You can get a 980ti 6700k machine for about 1500 USD i beleive. No more arbitrary power limits with that and a 750W PSU haha

 

Thanks man, I'm recovering well but it takes time.

Trust me I consider it on a regular basis! Right now this is about what I've landed on http://pcpartpicker.com/p/tgHcdC
The 390 just to keep my frames over 30 until pascal comes for true 60 fps 4k without multiple 980ti or a Titan X lol
Might would get a bigger psu instead and add a 390 later.
Does anyone know if I can pull my OS and everything off my SSDs and HDD and put them on the new desktop? Would save money on the OS. Its tempting considering how poor an investment a laptop generally is given the near complete lack of upgrade-ability.

I ordered a Kill A Watt meter so I can measure just how many watts our laptops pull and when! Itll be here tomorrow! I love amazon...
It will help us find out how best to allocate power for maximum performance.

 

You could possibly clone your laptop's os onto a new desktop, provide that said desktop have same OS installed (for booting). However, you'll still need to input a liscense to activate the OS in the desktop because of the different hardwares. Legally speaking.

As far as I'm aware, the liscense came with the laptop was embedded into the laptop (I believe it's the motherboard), therefore cannot be transferred.

Regards.

Defan

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

 

Regarding the dual PSU mods have a search through this site for M18xR2 980M Dual Power Brick mods, there's a thread for M18xR2 980M where one user did his own power brick mod.