BSEL Mod on a socket P explained with photos

glad that you have sorted out the overheating problem

 

Any sense in trying this with my studio 14z t6500?

 

It should work on your Studio 14z because it has an Nvidia chipset. Why don't you try it and confirm it?

 

I'm not sure... you should try it since it seems that nvidia chipsets don't lock the multiplier after the mod.

 

I just read through the 21 pages and honestly, congratulations to everyone! It's really nice to see that so many brave people have tested hardware overvolting mods on different chipsets etc. I'll soon be doing a volt mod on my QX9300 because I've done a HW mod (FSB @ 333MHz by shorting two dots on the motherboard) so my quad-core runs at 3.15GHz instead of 2.53GHz but that is unstable at stock voltage. With the help of Kaltmond who showed me which pins to short, I'll be gradually increasing to 1.1875,1.2000, 1.2125 until it's stable.
http://www.abload.de/img/xxxitps.jpg
Red for 1.1875; blues for 1.2V

If you guys have any recommendations regarding the volt mod, I'll be pleased to hear them. I'm running on a PM45 chipset.
Also, regarding the wire used to do the mod, does the wire has to be fully inserted into the socket holes (until it actually touches the bottom) or it's not necessary? Also what are the smallest wires that I can use to perform the mod without having them melting or something lol! I really want to avoid having the CPU not seated flat because it'll be very hard to get all 4 cores cooled properly otherwise.

Thank you very much!

 

Sorry for the delay, I'm not often online
When I did the mod the wire went into the the wholes by 2 to 3 millimeters. Actually it's not necessary for the wire to go inside the while; this is done to ensure that the wire does not move after the mod.

An alternative to the wire in the wholes is to solder the wire in the soldering point of the CPU socket (you need to be very good with a soldering iron). Also the wire can be fixed directly into the CPU (but this is very diffecult to achieve).

The thickness of the wire doesn't seem to be that important. I've used an IDE cable wire in the beginning because it is easy to shape. I also used a wire of a headphone.

I can assist you with the voltmod if you can tell me you default max vcore (without any mod).

P.S.
Could you tell us more about the HW mod.

 

Hi,
The CPU when running at 2.53GHz runs at 1.1625v usually and sometimes increases to 1.2750v (often right before IDA kicks in and takes a core up to 2.8GHz). Kaltmond showed me which holes to connect; according to what he said, the red line supplies 1.1875, blue ones 1.2v. I'm running my QX9300 at 3.15GHz by tricking the clock generator into running at 1333MHz but I need some more voltage.

Here's the thread about the HW mod:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=401682

 

1- Out of curiousity, what is your temperature at 100% load before and after the overclock?
2- Is IDA still kicking in after the overclock (i.e. are you getting 3.5 GHz with IDA, or did you deactivited it)?

I'm not really familiar with IDA. I played a bit with a laptop with a T7300 CPU but none of the software I tested has made any use of IDA. So, for now I'll ignore IDA and its vcore = 1.2750v.

Max Vcore = 1.1625v means VID[6543210] = 0011011. This means:
Vid0 + Vss = 1.1625v + 0.0125v ( 1.1750)
Vid1 + Vss = 1.1625v + 0.0250v ( 1.1875)
Vid3 + Vss = 1.1625v + 0.1000v ( 1.2625)
Vid4 + Vss = 1.1625v + 0.2000v ( 1.3625)

(Vid0 + Vss) & (Vid1 + Vss) = 1.1625v + 0.0375v ( 1.2000)
(Vid0 + Vss) & (Vid3 + Vss) = 1.1625v + 0.1125v ( 1.2750)
(Vid0 + Vss) & (Vid4 + Vss) = 1.1625v + 0.2125v ( 1.3750)

(Vid1 + Vss) & (Vid3 + Vss) = 1.1625v + 0.1250v ( 1.2875)
(Vid1 + Vss) & (Vid4 + Vss) = 1.1625v + 0.2250v ( 1.3875)

(Vid3 + Vss) & (Vid4 + Vss) = 1.1625v + 0.3000v ( 1.4625)
I would stay away from the last mod (i.e. Vid3 + Vss and Vid 4 + Vss) because I don't think either your laptop or CPU can handle it.

If you opt for any of the above mods, please be aware that changing the highest accessible Vcore (or the lowest one / undervolting) will change the range of accessible vcores for your CPU lowest multipliers.

For example, if you do the Vid3 + Vss mode (1.1625v to 1.2625v), the accessible/selectable vcores in RMclock are:
[0.8125v to 0.9000v] = [0.8125v to 0.9000v] after mod
[0.9125v to 1.0000v] = [1.0125v to 1.1000v] after mod
[1.0125v to 1.1000v] = [1.0125v to 1.1000v] after mod
[1.1125v to 1.1625v] = [1.2125v to 1.2625v] after mod

The above means that after VID3 mod selecting 1.0000v or 1.1000v in RMclock will provide 1.1000v of electricity to your CPU.

I hope that the above is clear enough to explain the overall idea. Let me know what mod you want to try and I'll draw the right wiring diagram for you .

 

Thank you so much for the detailed answer. Yeah I'm aware about all the accessible voltages increasing, it's fine.
I'll be trying:
(Vid0 + Vss) & (Vid3 + Vss) = 1.1625v + 0.1125v (1.2750)
(Vid1 + Vss) & (Vid3 + Vss) = 1.1625v + 0.1250v (1.2875)
and eventually
Vid4 + Vss = 1.1625v + 0.2000v (1.3625)

I know how to wire my volt mods, however just do doublecheck make a diagram of the 2nd one. Does it matter which VSS you connect a VID to?

Thanks a lot!

 

I managed to Pinmod my Dell desktop from 1.83 to 2.3 ghz so now I want to try this on my laptop.

Would this work on my Dell Inspiron 1520 with T7250 processor @2.0 ?

 

Not with the BSEL mod, you have an intel PM965 express chipset, the multi will be locked to the lowest value.

To overclock you need to do something like this:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=421279

I can help if you want.

 

I would be soldering? Hmm ... my hands aren't too steady.

The pllmod allows me to incrase the FSB?

 

Yes.

<sdfghjkl>

 

As far as I can tell all VCC are the same and all VSS are the same. The mod for (VID1 + VSS) and (VID3 + VSS) is shown below:

 

Thank you very much, I'll let you know when I try these out!

 

please do ...

 

lol, 1.3625V on Quad core......

 

What voltage do you use on the Q9200 kaltmond?

Also, what would it need to 3.5ghz and 4ghz?

 

I would never keep that 24/7, just for testing purposes. You can't make your computer the best if you aren't willing to take some risks

 

Hi guys , hope someone could clarify some doubts I got on volt modding via pinmod. I need to know the following, how do I know which is the default voltage on my T9400 which the mod will be applied. Cause there are several multipliers by default each with it's default voltage.

Sometimes my T9400 starts with 1.225 and sometimes with 1.15 and I want to leave its voltage with 1.025 default so I don't need to use right mark cpu clock to change it's voltage.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=390696

Is that grid on reducing vcore to 0.2 tested by someone ?

Thanks so much for all your help !

 

If you read through this thread there are several examples of people who have confirmed the success of the mod. Some have used it to undervolt their CPU, and some have used it to overvolt their CPU.
Before attempting the mod you should first ask yourself: Is this mod worth doing for you?

I've myself undervolted two Core Duo; a T2060 and a T5300, a Core 2 Duo T7200, and a Celeron dual Core T1400.

The T2060 and the T5300 are worth undervolting since I was able to run almost all their multipliers between 0.75v and 0.90v.

The T1400 was good too since I was able to drop its voltage by 0.15v. Result I had a cooler laptop and a better battery life (about 20 minutes more).

Doing the mod on the T7200 was in my opinion a bit pointless, since the three upper multipliers used by this CPU required at least 0.95v to run stable. After the mod I lost access to all the volatges between 0.9125 and 1.1000v. Hence, I had to run multiplier x10, x11, and x12 at 1.1125v after mod . I'm saying modding the T7200 was pointless for me because I often use all the range of multipliers available in a CPU.

If you plan to run the T9400 with its lowest multipliers only I would say go ahead an pinmod, but if you're planning to use all the range of vailable multipliers I would say don't pinmod.

Anyways if you want to have ago at the mod drop me an email and I'll assis you.

 

Hi naton , thanks for your reply I'm actually wanting to undervolt cause by some reason my asus m50vm laptop when doing orthos stress test goes as high at 100C on full load. voltage around 1.225. Here's the message about the post on this issue I did so you can have a general idea.

"Hi guys , long story short, I got my asus m50vm which has a penryn T9400, I never quite bothered to check temps on my laptop, till I started to feel it warm and fan keep on blowing.
I opened the bottom plate , and unscrewed the heatsink and found the thermal paste was solidified , so I removed it with a plastic cc. I cleaned it with isopropyl alcohol rubbed it well, and placed As5. Then I did something stupid I twisted the heatsink and one of the corners of the cpu die got a little bit scratched and tiny bity bit got broken but you can't even see it, I also scratched a little bit the die. So I don't really know if temp went this high before I even did all this about removing the thermal paste it had , or it started afterwards. So I don't know if a tiny scratch or what happened to the corner could be affecting the temp ? but I don't even know if this happened before.
I need some help from you guys . As I couldn't even solve this problem temp reaching that high with stress test under orthos. Today I bought a copper shim 1mm thick , placed it under the cpu core but temps still under 100 C under orthos stress, and as soon as I press start on orthos temp rises almost instantly to 100c. Could the heatpipe not be working properly, goes to the CPU and then to the mobo northbridge.
Something to take into account , cpu it's 2.53Ghz, and it's throttling but fluctuating in this order 2527 -> 2394 --> 2260 --> 2394 --> 2260 --> 2527. but it keeps on that order. I honestly don't know what else to do.
I also bent the heatpipe a little bit downards cause I thought It wasn't doing contact the copper plate with the core, I don't think I screwed the hteatsink but bending it a little bit. .but.. IT might, also how can I check its workin fine.
Hope you can help me out ! thanks"

Anyways I did all the volt mods with a thing ide wire, and voltage didn't drop from 1.225 with rightmark cpu clock it does work I can lower voltage to 1.025 and max temps go to 90C max , before with 1.15 and 1.225 went to around 100c anyways I'd like to have cooler temps , but as you read before I don't know if maybe the scratches on the die are causing the temp rising, the corner chipped which is almost unnoticeable, the heatsink I lapped not doing perfect contact with the die, really don't know. So all my chances are lowering thevoltage. But I'd prefer to leave it fixed not by software.
let me know anything you can think of. could there be some reason the pinmod voltmod is not working on my T9400 ?
I did the mod , and sometimes the laptop didn't boot or had symptoms which are typical that voltage is not enough, and when it did boot to the OS itself I checked the voltage and It kept the same. I'm sure the wire was inside the holes and the cpu pins were making contact.

 

That's a lot for a standard not overclocked intel CPU. My T7200 even with a BSEL mod from 2Ghz to 2.4Ghz was running at 90c under 100% load (ambiant temperature about 32 to 36c) and about 82c when the ambiant temp is about 20c.

I mean your T9400 should not go above 75c (max 80c). 100c is nearly the T9400 Tjuction temperature; temperature at which the T9400 starts slowing down to stop itself from blowing.

Before going into any undervolting you should solve the heating problem first. I mean you should get you CPU to run below 80c under load (with orthos for example)

Shims are not designed to use with CPUs. They are suited for GPUs and chipsets only.

To ensure a maximum performance thermal past should be apply as a very thin layer. I useally put a tiny bit of thermal past on the top of the CPU, wrap my index with some sellotape, and then use my index to spread the past over the CPU. AS5 is very good and I use it a lot but it has 2 problems. It is a bit thick and difficult to spread. Also it need 200 hours curring time. This means that temperature should drop (3 or 4c in my experience) after 200 hours of use.

This is because your CPU is reaching its Tjunction. When your CPU reaches 100c the speed drops to 2.26Ghz. This allows the CPU to cool down a bit. When its a bit cooler the speed goes back to 2527 and so on.

If you CPU needs at least 1.025v to run stable at 2.53Ghz doing the pin mod won't change that.

I saw you chip in http://forum.xbitlabs.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=17418&start=0, and doesn't seem to be that damaged.

I think you have to proceed as follow before thinking about undervolting and pinmods:
1- Check that you've applied a thin layer of AS5
2- Disable RMclock. If you're in XP set the power scheme to portable/laptop in 'Configuration pannal -- > Power Option'. If your in Vista you should set the power setting to 'Balanced'
3- run orthos. If your temperature is higher than 80c than you have a problem. If replacing the thermal past doesn't improve the situation then it is likely the your problem is due to the heatsink.

Heatsinks are cheap in ebay

 

Well I was thinking maybe when I Did lap the heatsink I changed the surface so it's not that flat, but anyways I did place some as5 paste on the die to see if it leaves a perfect solid imprint, and there's an imprint but not a perfect solid stamp. I think it's doing contact. Problem is I also sanded the bases where all screws go. But the heatsink I touch it with my finger and it's burning hot so heat is being transfered. I asked you about doing the pinmod undervolt mod cause under 1.025 I checked temps with CPUID hardwar monitor and max at 90C on stress with orthos smallffts.
SO I'm looking forward for the pinmod to work. What could be the reason the pinmod it's not working? About the heatsink buying it it's not that easy to find I'm in argentina, and the only place I found to have one was from a notebook parts shop in sweden.
Thanks! onceagain. let me know about the pinmod what could be going wrong.

 

As I've alredy explained if the minimum vcore required by you CPU is 1.025v doing the Pin Mod won't allow you to go any lower. You can go lower than 1.025v but your laptop will crash with a BSOD.

Of course the heat is been transfered but since your temp. are around 90 to 100c not all of it is transfered between the CPU and the heatsink.

If the contact between a CPU and a heatsink is perfect, once you remove the heatsink you should see the trace of the CPU core on it... something like this:


Can you take a picture of your heatsink since it seems to be at fault? Also have you tried to add some flat washers to the screws?

 

Hi Naton thanks again your reply, I will be posting pics on the heatsink, cpu die and the die imprint so you can figure out what's going on. I'll be posting the pics. The other pic you checked wasn't my cpu I just took a pic from google to tell the other guy how was the little corner chipped.
We'll keep in contact.
So you do think heat is being transferred but "maybe" as it's not doing perfect contact.. not all of the heat from the die is being transferred that's what you think, or your more into thinking the heatpipe is not doing it's job, I think it is cause it's burning hot and If I touch the little end that sticks out on the radiator it's not hot at all.

But anyways I do need to fix this issue about heat not being transferred properly , but what could be going on , I did the mod you explained on socket P on vid4 reducing .2 and .1 and nothing happened. What I just said before some issues tyipical about notebook needing more voltage, like saying BOOTMGR not found then it booted to the os .. so It did cause some effect. but voltage didn't drop, could this be a matter of the chipset used? or it should work on either chipset.

Aw naton forget to tell you I bought the little washers going to try them see if they have some effect.

 

1) when you do a pin mod the voltage will change but no software on the market would be able to record the change.

2) you said you can run your cpu at 2.53GHz with v1.025, right?
If VID3 mod is done properly, Windows would freeze or refuse to start when RMclock is set at v1.025. This is because with VID3; 1.025v in RMclock is equal to 0.925v in reality.

 

UPDATE:

I did place the washers in between the screws and temps with default voltage 1.225 and orthos stress is in between 95 and 96C. With 1.025 temps don't go over 89 - 86C

 

I think that that 95c is still a lot

 

Hi Naton thanks for answering me , lappie still works don't know but I think problem was a bad seated ram. works fine, but I still can't make temps go lower. I'm suspecting it's the heatpipe not working fine, but heat goes through all the setup like if you touch the heatpipe it burns the finger for instance so it's discipating.. so I don't know what else to think. The cpu is scratched on the die I thought it wasn't heavily scracthed but there are some scratches plus some of the corners are chipped. Could that be causing the temps to rise that far.. This had me all over.

 

daaudio you're lucky to have a second laptop (with one with the T7300), so use it to test T9400. If the temperatures of the T9400 are over 80c (with orthos and RMclock) in your other laptop then the T9400 has been damaged by the scratches. It the temperature are around 80c or below then the T9400 is fine and the problem lies on our heasink.

or

use the T7300 in your main laptop (the one with lapped heatsink) with orthos and RMclock. If the temperatures are over 80c then the problem is in the heatsink and the T9400 is fine.

P.S.
With RMclock and a fresh cote of AS5 a T7300 was running around 76c under load in my friend's Acer laptop.

 

hI naton , when I had all this problem when the lappie didn't start, I placed the T9400 on my vaio and It didn't post. I'm sure this lappie does not support the T9400. Maybe with a bios update.. dunno.

 

forgot to ask you something, next to the cpu there's the nortbridge right? chip says something like pm45 , I removed the thermal pad it had an I placed a copper shim in between.. now question is , can the nortbridge be heating up so much that it's increasing the temp on the heatpipe making the cpu go that high on orthos stress?. I mean if the copper shim it's not making good contact. let me know..

 

The blue pad looks about 1mm thick but with the presion of the heatsink this thickness is reduced to about 0.2 to 0.3mm. How thick is you chipset shim? If it is too thick it may create a tiny gape between the CPU and the heatsink and hence your height temperatures.

A chipset doesn't generate as much heat as a CPU. I would be wiser to remove the shim and replace it with another (blue) thermal pad.

I think you're right the sony might not support the T9400. But the T7300 should work on the laptop that was shipped with the T9400.

 

UPDATE: Well I did try the T7300 on my asus lap , and temps go high , so I think the heatsink is screwed, but I don't know if the northbridge could be causing temps going high when doing orthos .

 

have you replaced the shim above the chipset with a thermal pad?

Chipset temps. are lower then the T7300 and T9400 temps. There is a great chance that all your troubles are caused by the shim above the chipset. If this shim is too thinck then the CPU won't be in full contact with the heatsink.

Please replace the shim with a thermal pad, and if your temps. are still high then replace the heatsink

 

can i do this wiht my t8100 in sig? (Dell studio 1535) PM965
Can this damage my laptop??
What do i need to do this?
WIll this raise the temp of my cpu?

 

1- You would be able to do the undervolt but I don't think you would be able to overclock.

2- With the voltmod (i.e. undervolting) there is no risk.

3- Thin electric wire (speakers wire, IDE wire and so on)

4- The temperature will decrease since we are talking about undervolting. This method basically allow to undervolt below the Vcore accessible in RMclock.

 

this is an awesome thread! My cpu is T9400 and its already at 266mhz. can it go even higher or is that the limit? second question... can i unvervolt mod it like shown on the first page with the p sockets?

 

Well pushing the fsb up depends on what chipset you have. If it's intel then you cant't change the FSB.

You still can do the undervolting mod though (I can assist you if you need help).

 

Need a little help...

As-per here, I need to pull the Vcores for all multipliers. How do I find them? Mine are all set low in RMClock and CrystalCPU, because I was messing about with them the other day. Hitting the "default" option still shows them as 1.05v in RMClock, and CrystalCPU gives what I perceive to be an odd output...

State 0: 6x 1v
State 1: 6x 1.050v
State 2: 7x 1.125v
State 3: 8x 1.125v
State 4: 9x 1.200v
State 5: 10x 1.000v

Sandra tell me:-
Core Voltage Rating:- 1.200v
Min/Max Core Voltage:- 0.713v - 1.200v

It's a T5800 processor, stepping M0.

Not sure I should be trusting the information given by RMClock and/or CrystalCPU, as I've been fiddling with the settings and it makes no sense to me that the maximum multiplier would have the lowest voltage...

 

I've used RMclock on all the below CPUs and no problem. RMclock is more accurate then for Exmple CPU-z. The highest multiplier have either the same voltage as the other or more.

T2500, T5300, T7200, T2370, and currently T5250 with all multipliers set at 0.95v.

Please try undervolting first with RMclock. Please follow this tutorial. After completing this post back your RMclock multiplier/Vcores.

In the meantime you should know after the mod some of the voltages in RMclock will decrease but others will remain the same.

VID3 + RMclock
before mode ---------- after mode
1.1125 to 1.2000 ---> remain the same
1.0125 to 1.1000 ---> 0.9125 to 1.0000
0.9125 to 1.0000 ---> remain the same

VID4 + RMclock
before mode ---------- after mode
1.1125 to 1.2000 ---> remain the same
0.9125 to 1.1000 ---> 0.7125 to 0.9000

 

It's only the highest voltage I'd like to drop, the one when operating under full-load. This will be used as a desktop replacement, so will be on 24/7 and running climateprediction.net in the background.

Would it be possible to just drop the voltage presented to the CPU under full load to ~1v, or isn't it possible to just alter that one Vcore?

Thanks for your help!

 

OK now I understand what you want to do . You have two options but I would recommand option 2 since it is easier, more flexible, and above all suite your type of usuage (i.e. laptop on 24/7 at full load)

1- Pin Mod: but the minimum voltage required by your CPU to run stable will be the same as with an undervolting software. For example my T7200 was stable with 0.9875v when undevolted with RMclock. If I select a vcore any lower then that in RMclock or via pin mod my laptop will crash with a BSOD.

2- Via Software: RMCLOCK if you're under windows. I'm not familiar with Linux but nando4 has already suggested the use of PHC for Linux.

 

Could I pinmod for a constant 1v in all states? I know it's stable on that, and the temperature doesn't get high enough to trigger noisy-fan-mode...

 

What undervolting with pin mod does is turn the value of the VID from 0 to 1. In your case (i.e. max vid 1.2v) VID 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 are 0 0 1 1 0 0 0.
As you can see VID4 = VID3 = 1.

What you can do is two mods at the same time (undervolting + overvolting):
VID4 + VSS ----> i.e. (+0.2v)
VID5 + CSS ----> i.e. (-0.4v)
This should lower your max VID from 1.2v to 1.0v

 

Ah, that sounds great! If I were to take it on the move, what would happen to the lower voltages?

 

VID4 + VID5 mod will limit the VCores accessible to your CPU to the range 0.9125v to 1.1000v.

x12 will use 1v after mod for sure. For the others it is hard to say unless you control them with a software. After doing the mod, I would recommand using a stressing software like orthos. If you see a drop in the temperature compared to the stock voltage that would confirm that the mod has worked properly.

 

Alright, thanks. I'll give it a go tonight or tomorrow.

 

Good luck and please post back the result.