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    Broken GTX 980M

    Discussion in 'Hardware Components and Aftermarket Upgrades' started by Darker01, Nov 11, 2017.

  1. Darker01

    Darker01 Notebook Consultant

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    When your laptop shutdown, how hot is the power supply? Does it burn you when you touch it? I think you could be pushing the presumably stock power supply too far by drawing too much current from it.
     
  2. Kostasgreece

    Kostasgreece Notebook Guru

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    it is hot but not too much.when I use the 680m is more colder . I will be found another one to see if the problem is from psu. yesterday just crashed the game and not shutdown after 3 hours.
     
  3. Brown bear

    Brown bear Notebook Enthusiast

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    Hi
    tell me please, where to buy an inductor r22? preferably on ebay
     
  4. Darker01

    Darker01 Notebook Consultant

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    Probably should check out Mouser's inventory. They have better quality parts there.
     
  5. Brown bear

    Brown bear Notebook Enthusiast

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    sorry, I do not know what this is?
     
  6. Darker01

    Darker01 Notebook Consultant

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  7. Skithemlig

    Skithemlig Notebook Enthusiast

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    Hello!

    I have the same problem!
    My power supply cuts when plugged in to computer.
    No problems when I take the 980m card out.

    I measuring resistance across power input and I got about 5 Ohms.
    I got around 4,7 Ohms on the 6 black capacitors (labeled 470) between the R22 coils and 17,4 Ohms for the row of 2 (also labeled 470)...
    How did you test the mosfet?

    Thank you
     
  8. Darker01

    Darker01 Notebook Consultant

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    I did not. Desoldered ALL of the MOSFETs on the card and replaced with new ones.
     
  9. Skithemlig

    Skithemlig Notebook Enthusiast

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    Thank you. I ordered new mosfets.
    Did you replace the R22 also or just mosfets?
     
  10. Darker01

    Darker01 Notebook Consultant

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    Just MOSFETs. If replacing the MOSFETs doesn't work, then probably something else failed.

    Out of curiosity, can you take pictures on both sides of the GTX 980M and upload here? I want to see what's the thing looks like.
     
  11. Skithemlig

    Skithemlig Notebook Enthusiast

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    Starlight5 likes this.
  12. Skithemlig

    Skithemlig Notebook Enthusiast

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    Soo... I replaced the mosfets and the card works!

    Thank you :)
     
  13. Darker01

    Darker01 Notebook Consultant

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    Sweet! Congratulation. You saved yourself 3 weeks and $400 plus ship. Those were the numbers thrown at me before I decided to just wing it.
     
    Last edited: Dec 1, 2018
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  14. Skithemlig

    Skithemlig Notebook Enthusiast

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    The feeling when you install the card and you see the computer booting! -Amazing!

    Thank you! Without this thread I never would try to troubleshoot the card, as you said - "There's no schematic for the card floating around"
     
  15. chrisssj3

    chrisssj3 Notebook Guru

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    I got a Clevo P771DM-G with an Nvidia 980M with 8GB and Gsync.

    The laptop shutdown after hearing 21-22+ beeps. Ussually when stressing the laptop. Playing fortnite with 120 FPS makes it crash fast. (ussually within minutes, sometimes can take 40 min.) On chrome and desktop use it has never crashed except for one time when watching youtube.
    At first I thought it was the power supply. The led went dark on the power supply and I couldnt turn on the laptop untill I reconnected the power supply to the power socket to get the light to turn green.
    Whenever the beeps happen the power light led on the laptop itself will start to flash orange.

    Then it changed and no more beeps, just straight power loss. then the morning after beeps again.
    Some windows event logs for reference:
    http://prntscr.com/n7smnh
    http://prntscr.com/n7smif
    http://prntscr.com/n7sme1
    http://prntscr.com/n7sm8q
    http://prntscr.com/n7sm4p
    http://prntscr.com/n7slv7
    http://prntscr.com/n7slqr
    http://prntscr.com/n7tv4n
    http://prntscr.com/n7tvk6

    This is where my real post starts:
    Me and my friend opened it up and we found this:
    http://prntscr.com/n8ndd4
    http://prntscr.com/n8ndgs

    As you can see the board is a bit burned in one corner, on the other side there is a mosfet.
    From reading online(here) it seems a number of people had success with replacing all the mosfets.

    So my question here is, which mosfets do you need and where did you aquire them?
    Anything on my pictures above that gain your attention?
     
  16. Brown bear

    Brown bear Notebook Enthusiast

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    usually closes, leftmost, marking CSD87350D.
    replacement in the service will cost up to $ 5. You can buy on AliExpress or ebay.
     
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  17. chrisssj3

    chrisssj3 Notebook Guru

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    Do you know the entire number? it isn't quite visible in my photo.
    CSD87350D Yes. But then something "xxx" 583 and ZKD"something"|

    If I look at ebay I see the CSD87350D with TI 14E S79 E3 or CSD87350D with TI 44I ACKO E4
    So it seems there are different "CSD87350D" chips..
     
  18. Brown bear

    Brown bear Notebook Enthusiast

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    it does not matter. batch number.
     
  19. chrisssj3

    chrisssj3 Notebook Guru

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    Last edited: Apr 7, 2019
  20. Darker01

    Darker01 Notebook Consultant

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    I bought directly from Texas Instrument using this link here: http://www.ti.com/product/CSD87350Q5D/samplebuy

    If you are in CONUS I highly recommend you do that. If I were you I would replace all 3 MOSFETs on the board, in case any of them were to go bad. When handle the new MOSFETs, ground yourself and don't touch the metal contacts as that may cause ESD damage to them.

    Also do be careful when you desolder the MOSFET on the 980M so as to avoid popcorning the PCB at that corner.
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2019
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  21. chrisssj3

    chrisssj3 Notebook Guru

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    I had ordered 5 from ali express already damn.. What do you mean CONUS?
    Do you think the texas one's might be better?
     
  22. hackyu

    hackyu Newbie

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    great work, thanks for sharing
     
  23. tilleroftheearth

    tilleroftheearth Wisdom listens quietly...

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    CONUS :D

     
  24. Darker01

    Darker01 Notebook Consultant

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    Continental United States, lower 48 states.Texas Instrument is the manufacturer for that MOSFET. I recommend you to buy from them instead because they are the source, and that stuff bought from them are a lot more likely to work than something on Aliexpress that doesn't even have the manufacturer name in the listing.
     
  25. Brown bear

    Brown bear Notebook Enthusiast

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    For those who live in the states, of course it is better to buy from the manufacturer.
     
  26. Brown bear

    Brown bear Notebook Enthusiast

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    I bought on ebay and Aliexpress, everything works.
     
  27. chrisssj3

    chrisssj3 Notebook Guru

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    What is the proper way to desolder the mosfet?
    And what is the proper way to reattach it?
    Do you guys use the heatgun or solder iron or plied it off somehow.
    And if so how did you do it?
    Because I tried with the heatgun, but in end it wouldn't come off and instead it destroyed the mosfet....

    This is how it ended up.. raped mosfet:
    http://prntscr.com/nyjji5
     
    Last edited: Jun 6, 2019
  28. Brown bear

    Brown bear Notebook Enthusiast

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    my God, do not do it yourself, I ask you, the PCB can swell up and the board will have to be thrown out (((((

    you can put the mosfet on the next place, for this everything is ready, add a little flux, and put on the hair dryer the smallest nozzle, the temperature is 300 -...
     
  29. chrisssj3

    chrisssj3 Notebook Guru

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    What do you mean, I need to replace the broken one right now, right? I mean I can do other ones but first the broken one you see on the picture?

    I have flux, and Hairdryer.
     
  30. Brown bear

    Brown bear Notebook Enthusiast

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    You must clean this place! Apply flux and remove the solder residue, then apply a new solder on the heels, and you can already solder a new mosfet. Or you can put it in the next place (this is on the right)
     
  31. MacGreedy

    MacGreedy Newbie

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    If you look closely you see that a part of the mosfet is still on it. What we would like to know is how to proper remove one because we applied enough heat with the gun but it won’t come loose.
     
  32. Brown bear

    Brown bear Notebook Enthusiast

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    The easiest way to remove the solder is with a soldering iron and a sheath. You can make a braid yourself using old copper wires!

     
  33. Darker01

    Darker01 Notebook Consultant

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    I used hot air rework station. Any generic 858D would do the job. See the set up I use to desolder the MOSFETs on the first page. I replaced ALL of the existing ones because I trust none of them.

    For method, I watch Louis Rossmann's video on replacing the MOSFET on a Mac and followed that as closely as possible. I got some of the Amtech flux which turned out to be pretty good.
     
  34. Ryan Russ

    Ryan Russ Notebook Consultant

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    You may have applied enough heat with a soldering iron but consider also the fact that the mosfet has 9 different pads underneath it and epoxy is a poor conductor. You need hot air and flux to really loosen it, followed with cleaning with a desoldering braid
     
  35. luixyz

    luixyz Notebook Enthusiast

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    May I join this party, I had a burnt GTX980M from a MSI GT72, the left-most 87350D is burnt also taken down the capacitor in the middle "E7 ES" and maybe another small cap & resistor is burnt due to the excess heat behind the 87350D

    The MXM cards power rail is short, I will order the 87350D x8 this week and some extra cap as spare, hopefully to revitalise the poor soul

    Just wondering anyone have the schematic to the GTX980M card for reference?
     
  36. Ryan Russ

    Ryan Russ Notebook Consultant

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    It's fairly difficult to acquire any schematic for any part like the 980m. Besides the PU you ordered, the Cap you're looking for is a 15pf/.15uf 25v vishay cap. The actual code is e7 eX where x is the date code, e7 is the farad value and e is the voltage rating.

    The actual part is difficult to come across but the only one that has made any sense after measurements with my atmega esr meter was that one. 14.5 pf and low esr.
     
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  37. luixyz

    luixyz Notebook Enthusiast

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    Many Thanks, it took me 5+ hours to figure out the model of that cap by studying from different MXM variant of 980M on Google, it was a panasonic 25TQC15MYFB POSCAP 15UF 25V B B2 ESR:100 which is quite hard to get, I think I will desolder the suspicious components first, and check for shorts.

    Besides I will add all 6 87350D to share the power load try to minimise the operating temperature and load distribution.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2019
  38. Ryan Russ

    Ryan Russ Notebook Consultant

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    It usually isn't the capacitors on that note. It's more or less always a 87350D that goes bad. Also I personally avoided adding any extra to the cards I've repaired, at most just switched positions. It doesn't necessarily balance load between the fets, as they'll still all be in use at pretty much whatever they can pull from wherever. If anything you'd be adding in heat. In my mind it's better to replace with new parts and make sure they stay cooler than originally, using either shims or thicker pads.

    Occupying all the spots for the 87350d might make each individual part a bit cooler but consider as well that each also has to have its own load, with the capacitors needing to function to support that extra headroom. On top of that, it's very possible that the pathways present in your card are missing components in line with where the new fets would occupy.

    You will definitely need a hot air station, 858D or above, don't use a heat gun, and make sure to use flux when dealing with each spot. Clean them well as well.
     
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2019
  39. Ryan Russ

    Ryan Russ Notebook Consultant

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    So looking at it, the c59 cap is bad, and the 87350d looks to have overheated. The resistor r734 is okay and could be jumpered if needed as if I'm correct it's a 0 ohm resistance, and that cap on the back is difficult to tell, but looks like excess solder.
     
  40. luixyz

    luixyz Notebook Enthusiast

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    Yes thanks, same as my preliminary findings, I have ordered 87350D , the cap C59, when they arrive I shall remove the burnt 87350D and check for shorts again, the cap at the back is kinda explode or got so hot the solder went on the top, most likely dead, if the short doesnt clear after removing the burnt 87350D, I will remove those burnt cap one by one for diagnoses.

    The R734 I need to check again, I think it was ok, just crispy roasted on the surface.

    Also ordered fresh thermal pads and will apply promptly

    With reference to below link (google translate to English) I will follow and add the additional 87350D and the 470uF cap on the left most side.

    http://www.nhl.pl/lofiversion/index.php/t92026.html
     
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2019
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  41. Ryan Russ

    Ryan Russ Notebook Consultant

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    The cap on the rear is difficult to tell about because of the angle. If you can't fix the 980m I can recommend the m6100 as a card that will at least allow you to use your computer; it's about 30$ and on the same level as a 770m.
     
  42. Darker01

    Darker01 Notebook Consultant

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    Do you have to mod the Nvidia driver inf to get this installed or not? When I tried using the 765M in place of the 980M, I had to do that to get the driver installed.
     
  43. Ryan Russ

    Ryan Russ Notebook Consultant

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    I didn't have to on either my p870dm, p750 or any other clevo.
    The m6100 is an AMD workstation card so that might be why.
     
  44. luixyz

    luixyz Notebook Enthusiast

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    I have replaced the 87350D , the cap C59, the short was cleared from direct measurement, however when I put the card back in the system, the standby voltage was ok and then when power on the power supply cut the power indicating there is a short. I removed the card and measure the + and ground, it is short again, that means there is something else broken that burnt the power circuit once power is started...
     
  45. luixyz

    luixyz Notebook Enthusiast

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    Final Update, sent the card to a knowledgeable technician with a reasonable price, the pull up capacitor at the back of the burnt 87350D was toasted and burnt as well, by removing them, the card is ok now, my self-replacement of the 87350D and E7 cap was not bad at least.

    I have reapply fresh cooling pad to the card and CPU VRM, hopefully to keep the temp. down, at default fan, max GPU temp 80 oC, at max fan GPU temp Max 70 oC

    Here's 3D mark result for 980M vs 880M in the same GT72 2XX 4720/16G/1T HDD

    And now my keyboard is bad... F,G, Space is dead and I think F1 key is stuck and keeps on input F1 Signal to the computer, thinking to get a replacement keyboard or not, else I will disconnect the keyboard ribbon, keep the RGB ribbon on and use an external keyboard.

    Really, too tire to dismantle the whole system again, especially I have apply the fresh thermal paste and cooling pad

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2019
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  46. the_avatar

    the_avatar Newbie

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    Just wanted to post a quick Thank you for you all here! My notebook would not turn on anymore and I located the graphics card as culprit, and after reading here I let someone replace the IC/ MOSFET in the corner of the card (after checking resistances). Now it’s back in and working!!! What I wonder though: my idle temps are around 60C...

    oh and be extra careful with the little chip on the back of the card where you replace the IC - it also loosened when heating the part up and as the person said that resoldered it, it was a pain in the neck to reapply (See photo).

    thanks again for the incredibly useful post!
     

    Attached Files:

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  47. Dr. AMK

    Dr. AMK Living with Hope

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    Congratulations.
     
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  48. luixyz

    luixyz Notebook Enthusiast

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    Good to hear, looks like the 0 Ohm resistor is popping out on your card
     
  49. the_avatar

    the_avatar Newbie

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    0 Ohm resistor? That would be a defect one then, Sounds strange :)

    jk, yes that’s the one he desoldered by accident when desoldering the IC on the other side of the card and it was a b*tch to solder again without risking the IC to also desolder again. It’s fixed on the card, looking a bit funny but seems the card is working flawlessly. Just wondering about those 52-60 degrees Celsius in idle...

    by the way, temperature at RDR2 with high Settings/ ultra settings stays around 65 degrees max. I am using thermo grizzly kryonaut and applied like they suggest (a thin layer spread out on the whole chip instead of the pea method). Although I am not sure what temperature exactly the Clevo tool shows (CPU? GPU? Chassis?)
     
  50. senso

    senso Notebook Deity

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    On GPU dies I always go for an X pattern and it works fine, regarding the thermal paste.
     
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