Call all electronic gurus...

AMD ATI Mobility Radeon HD 4670 - Notebookcheck.net Tech

Spoiler

Spoiler

Spoiler

I think i may be able to replace and reball that^ with this...



ATI M96 XT HD 4670 216-0729051 GPU Video BGA Chipset IC | eBay



It's my theory that when the gpu core cracked it made it impossible for the little trons inside to get where they need because they can't drive their motorcycles across the the crack witch to them would be like the grand canyon

i kid, how ever i have already re flowed in witch we found something was spilled on it after gook came out from under the chips during re flow so will cleaned it with contact cleaner, it it actually not only stopped hanging at boot but, spat out a few artifacts at post for a split second so we then cleaned it with distilled water and non additive Palmolive and cleaned it really really well and then thats when i noticed the god awful cracks.

what say you? does any one know what the numbers on the surface mean?

I carried this over from another forum not a whole lot of info over there. i also like these forums a little bit better as they are smaller and there aren't as many newb/troll/trad/s

I'm curious about the numbering on the cores mainly curious about 0943 vs 0923.

I' am familiar with what rebelling is and I am well aware this isn't isn't an easy task in fact i most certainly won't be doing the actually reball other than second pair of hands with the fluxing and what not. obviously heat is an issue one guy on the other forum mentioned a battery operated solder sucker to suck out some of the solder balls, witch i guess may help if there is less solder to heat up at once, since you can't suck them all out.


EDIT: i see the forums lack image resize and spoiler tags. sorry it's so big.

E D I T: check second page for more pictures.

 

"0923" and "0943" are the manufacturing dates. The 23rd and 43rd weeks of 2009, respectively.

 

i see does the P0xxxxx denote any thing like revision or anything knowing that other number is the date explains things and makes seem even more compatible aside from the unknown P0xxxx.

My only concern is dark it is and if it is counterfeit witch i think i could just claim a paypal dispute. I think it may just be lighting. i read about an acetone test for counterfeits I think i may read up on that just in case.

 

Counterfeit I think is quite implausible.

Search for pictures of RV730. That is the name of the chip.

Although I would be very worried that the problem with the graphics card is not that the GPU is bad.

 

it's cracked all the way through the core and you can see withe arrows. it actually reflects light like a broken mirrors with some lighting this way and that way, i was surprised it didn't show in the pictures. on the core corner you can see what looks like the sub straight.

Spoiler

Spoiler

Spoiler

Thank you mods for the spoiler code

You do raise a good point, there could still be something wrong with the card. witch scares me a little. this is a special gem that one doesn't come by every day as it is the ddr3 version 4670. that fastest card ever made for mxm type 2 slots. also more specifically it is a M96-XT, also reading the wiki on the rv700.

 

what notebook are you using?

 

If you're replacing it with an identical unit then that should be possible.

Given that it's already broken you've got nothing to lose.

 

It,s an Acer 5920g with 5gb ram 1tb hdd and t5250. Defnitly I need upgrade hence this project. Pretty sure I'm buy the chip and try the swap.

 

Plus rep if you can get this baby working again!! Again I apologise it arrived it such bad condition. I swear there were no cracks when I sent it off!

Having sent items such as this in the post before with similiar packaging I thought it sufficient.

Really wish you the best of luck with this! A fresh core will also really extend the card's life. Considering it was already dead once a fixed core wouldn't have been so reliable.

You could also try to source some Samsung GDDR3 memory modules from the mxm 3.0 type A card to replace the current quimonda modules. The modules of this card are only good for a max stable clock of 986mhz. Whereas the samsung modules commonly get up to 1050mhz which will give the card a very decent bandwidth boost! You seem tech savvy enough to give it a try!

 

interesting idea but, i think all the components set in place on PCB support only ddr3 ie resistors ect for the correct voltage. the most i loose out of this deal is some money and some time and I still walk away with some experience to boot.

this isn't any thing to me really i bought a card for money plus shipping a 4870x2 saying it probably needed a baking and that he didn't have time to look at it. well the frame was smashed and cracked resistors several were ripped off the pcb. we tried replacing a few doing the graphite trick and re flow and nada.

at least with this we know the pre existing condition and i paid a fair price even in the current condition.

as far as shipping a mailer can still be acceptable just fold over a wide strip of cardboard so long as it's a small items. longer stuff like laptop keyboards tend to warp in the mail. but with smaller items the card board can act as protective shell.

So far i'm really digging this forum people are supportive and actually know a thing or two. just to poke fun check out my other topic apparently type 2, 4670 ddr3's are only 40 bucks usd these days

MXM II HD4670 DDR3 GPU core replacment/reballing - Overclock.net - Overclocking.net

despite 2 links clearly mentioning ati mobility these guys still haven't figured it out. go figure.

 

I'm definitely subscribing to this therad.

 

Mail call!

Spoiler

Spoiler

Spoiler

It still looks a bit off could be because it's new. there is an inkish color on the very outer edge and there is dark out line on the plastic it was shipped in, maybe some kind of protective film or maybe a complete fake?

EDIT: 11/22/2011

order some flux and I have been contemplating some improvised methods to preheat the boar and keep it from warping. I'm definitely going through with it since i have the parts at hand.

 

I noticed on youtube a lot of guys were rocking $9,000 USD BGA machines or some kind of pre heating stations with a soldering station, witch i have access to.

Spoiler

Here you can see the 1500 watt pre heating station.

Spoiler

Here you can see the solder station and the big tip on the hot air iron for heating the entire chip.

Spoiler

First attempt, not quite hot enough and we need a BIG tip.

Spoiler

Success! The old chip is removed.

Spoiler

And bath with soap and rinse in heated distilled water to help rinse out out all that nasty flux.


After that we started wicking it and then trouble, one of the inside pads that was covered some how got the outer green layer ate up with flux making connection close to the gpu connection and merging basically making it entirely ed. this inside pad didn't lift it just lost it's green covering and now solder is sticking to make things worse this one goes down to the opposite side of the board. I might get pics of it but, i'm pretty bummed, out we got really Fking close.

 

from the pics, it looks like you're grilling your graphics card
how is the results?

 

one the "pads" lost it's special coating letting solder stick to it ruining the entire card, maybe just possibly maybe with some surgical precision we can save the card.

basically you need the constant steady heat on the back of the card for 2 reasons, 1 to keep it from warping, 2 to help with heat it so the chip can come off.

 

Could you not just slice off the solder which is bridging the gap with a scalpel? You've got nothing to lose.

 

That might be what we do but, we will have to slice off the copper pad it's sticking to as well so we can finish wicking it. First we are gonna take some super close up macro setting photos and see what went wrong. if and once it's wicked it should be rather simple to drop on the new core with some flux and just heat it up, removal is the hard part.

what ever you do, never drag the wick.