Changed LCD doesn't work

Hey,

did change my old broken LCD Sony Vaio PCG 71211 screen. (there was a crack on the right side)
1) On first boot, the new LED matte screen just showed mainly white vertical lines (didn't recognize any boot-text). Tryed to reboot a couple of time but always this white lines.
2) Changed back to the old LCD, an there is now a ghost screen (can just see the boot-text with a strong light behind the screen) - before the change, there was the normal screen but with this crack of course.
3) Changed again to the new LED and there is now nothing - just black display - also no ghost screen. ?

What can the problem therefore be? Did I hurt the LCD Cable perhaps?

If so, I would need to change it. Opened the laptop and the type is a "M970 CABLE LCD 015-0101-1516_A(LA) 100329 REV:A"
Looked it up on some online stores but I don't think to get exact this cable. Is an alternativ product possible? Which?

thanks in advance!

 

welcome to nbr

no idea about the screen but vertical lines normally means a dying graphics card.
is it like picture attached?

 

Banding can also occur if the panel characteristics aren't those pre-programmed into the BIOS.

There's a dicussion of the problem (which was fixed) here.

John

 

yeah, but the thing is - on the first try when I changed and booted up the sytem 3-4 times - it looked like this image you posted.

Afterwards I changed to the old LED screen - then this old screen was dark (before just the crack but a picture) with a ghot picture (light behind screen shows text)

Changed back to the NEW screen and then also this vertical lines were gone and JUST a black screen appears. Also no ghost screen (no text to be seen when holding a light behind it)

And the external VGA output still works fine - so should the graphic card be okay?

 

strange one. especially as when you change back you dont get the lines.
if the lines are like my picture then that is almost certainly the graphics card but i have no idea how you get images when you change the screen back.

any idea which graphics card you have in your sony.
sorry but i dont know enough about screens or their ribbon cables to help much more

 

If I try to change the LCD cable (as it is not that expensiv), is it possible to use another then the mentioned "M970 CABLE LCD 015-0101-1516_A(LA) 100329 REV:A" ? Isn't this kind of standard cable - just you need to now how many pins/resolution etc...? Because the problem is, that I don't found an offer for this cable. Another forum/thread such similar problem was solved by a cable change. And as the external works, the old screen also with ghost - perhaps it's the cable..

I have a "ATI Mobility Radeon HD 5650".

Perhaps to try also a BIOS flash as a last step.

 

Sony replaces actual lcd part nrs. with their own part numbering system (which makes them utter b******s, really ...). Make a photo of the stickers on the back of the broken lcd (or scribble the numbers down) and we'll look up which screens match your system. Do the same for the replacement you bought. Thing is, your model may have had different resolutions and these require a matching cable (roughly speaking it's ≤768p and ≥900p).

So the answers are; maybe, no and yes. In that order .

That's the actual lcd you're seeing, the backlight's simply not working. Much like old celluloid, really; the film's the lcd and the projector lamp is the backlight.

Hmm, I know Dell mixes-and-matches CCFL and WLED backlight types within the same laptop model. If your Vaio's the same, this would explain quite a bit of your experiences so far; you cannot exchange these without an interposer card.

Tangent:
Wth; censureship? Certainly, there was something different in place of those *'s ...

 

old lcd with cable:

new one (not original but should be compatible:

further pics:


"the projector lamp is the backlight" > but this lamp is also included in the lcd? couldn't find anything "lamp-like" on the remaining parts where the lcd is mounted. Just a black- and an aluminium foil.

 

Yes, it's assembled as one device. It's possible to separate them, but that's not something you would do without a good reason (education's one, stripping the antiglare layer's another).

These are the actual part numbers:



Anyway, putting the old LP156WF1-TLC1 and new N156BGE-L11 side-by-side it's easy to see where it went wrong. You had a 1080p (Full HD) panel, which needs a 2-channel lvds cable, but the 'compatible' replacement is merely 768p (WXGA) using a 1-channel lvds cable. Now, this might still have worked (because 2-channel is downwards compatible with 1-channel). In this case, however, the 1080p backlight used about 50% more current to power it then the 768p required. Might be the new panel simply drawed less power from your system, but might also be it received a bit too much juice ...

So ... check the original listing; if it did say WXGA or 1366x768 then you have no grounds to send it back; this Vaio series probably had different resolution screens to choose from. If it didn't then they should have asked you which resolution you had before. Also, the new one's a matte, your original a glossy. That's something you'll notice at once, so unless you like washed-out colours (or prefer low reflections, of course); be sure to order glossy.

Now, nothing here should've resulted in a non-working old screen. So, yes, think you've damaged the cable in the process. The individual copper wires inside the assembled cable are really quite thin and cannot handle flexing that well. Make sure to order the correct cable; the 2-channel version, to be sure.

 

good comprehensive answer!

this is what I bought:
NEW LAPTOP NOTEBOOK 15.6" LED MATTE SCREEN SONY VAIO PCG-71211M | eBay

and in my understanding it should be compatible with my model, as the seller described it.. ( it's WXGA or 1366x768)
I chose matte as I prefere this now - but didn't know, that there's a difference and that it's not good to xchange the types.

I hope, that the new screen didn't bust in fact of too much juice.. but I could imagine this as reason as first there was just bandings and then nothing. Or also the cable broke in fact of too much? :/
So as last step I'll order a new cable to try it again (should not be that expensive)

But as last question: do I need now the exact cable type as labeled on the current (M970) or is there any 2-channel lvds cable 'compatible' (btw: I don't like 'compatible' any more )

Will keep you uptodate then

 

Yes, but the seller also, correctly, mentioned this:

Which is exactly what happened here; same model, two screens (FHD and WXGA). Bit puzzling though, why order a 768p when you had a nice 1080p before ; the price is roughly the same and most people want to upgrade to higher resolution, not the opposite. Blu-rays would've been wasted on that wxga ...

Oh no, doesn't matter in the least; the matte/glossy is just a thin plastic sheet that's glued on top. But if you liked your old glossy then a matte would've been a disappointment.

Unlikely, your 2ch cable has a few extra wires that carry voltage, but these should be unconnected at the lcd end. And the cable itself can handle the power just fine, after all, it's rated for the current and voltage that the mb can supply. Think it was just the flexing; when you get new cable, cut old one in half and strip off plastic from a single wire. Notice just how thin each copper thread is.

Yes and no. The lcd connector is universal; 40-pin lvds = 40-pin lvds. How the cable ends at the motherboard side is up to the manufacturer, and here there's more to choose from. Roughly there's 'old-skool', flat-ribbon and plug-types (like yours). Then there's 30-pin and 40-pin (both for 40-pin lcd's). Still, could buy an outwardly matching one, except that, say, pin #23 on one mobo carries voltage, yet data on another. Here's a nice example of an old-skool type cable, it kindly lists all the pins.

Still, if the cable required was not available (or overpriced) then it's possible to rewire a cable (as long as it had matching connectors and sufficient wires). Need mb schematics for that, however, like this.

Hmm ... one more thing; if you're seriously considering a 768p screen; get the 1-channel cable intended for your system instead. That would enable you to test (and use) the new screen you already have, instead of sending it back and risk getting a ' defective, so no returns' kind of reply.

 

thanks again so far!

To be honest, the ordering of the 768p wasn't intenionally, but now I have this one and as the laptop is just for office purposes, it doesn't matter.

Just talked to the Sony-support and they just offer 'original' parts (they asked for my Serial-No.) so no possibility to buy an alternativ 1-ch. cable - as you suggested - from them for my 'compatible' lcd.
Anyway it's overpriced? Sony A1779048A € 33,30 + freight € 13,50
Do you think I should give it a try anyway, as you mentioned, that downwards it should be compatible?

Otherwise the best would be to find an alternativ 40 pin to 40 pin 1-ch. cable as there are 40 pins on both ends for the current one? (but couln't find such sofar on ebay etc.. - do you have an idea?)
here's again a screen of the cable and the mobo connector:


You mentioned this ( http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/Fix-...tem5409f4b652&clk_rvr_id=718114036055&afsrc=1) this is a 2-ch. and 30 pin to 30 pin and different fixed ordering (2 rows on one side) of the pins anyway. So is there a 40 pin to 40 pin with one row 1 ch. available? Didn't find anything.

 

Then do yourself a favour and return the 768p (if possible) and order a 1080p instead (matte, if you prefer that). Even for office-work; it means so much screen real-estate that will be taken up by tools and buttons, leaving less actual 'work' area. Recall AutoCAD on a run-of-the-mill display; after all the tools there was only ~50% of the screen left ... patently unworkable.

The cable's a bit of an overcharge, but I wouldn't bother for a potential 20,- save. Buy that one; you'll be certain the pin layout matches your system. It would take hours of research and (probably) swapping a few of the little wires around and 20,- just isn't worth that much effort.

The cable I linked was for illustration only, most laptop cables sold do not list pin-layout because a system-specific cable will always work. The one in the link is priced according to its true value, but it is generic; anyone looking to use these will probably make DIY laptop-lcd conversions.

 

ok thanks - I ordered the cable, will wait for it and test it with new/old lcd. As the Screen can be sent back, I'll do this afterwards and xchange it with a Full HD one.
Will write again what happened..

 

now I have tested the new original cable + the new compatible HD LCD.

#Status: there is a ghost screen - I can see the booting text when holding a light behind the screen - so doesn't work.

So the graphic-card seems to be broken? (the external vga works)

Besides: I just installed the cable+lcd on the open case (there is no need, from a technical point of view, to screw togeher the whole laptop for testing?)

thanks for help

 

That means that either the backlight's defective, or it isn't powered on because there's no current (the lcd itself is working fine and so is the gpu). Since it's a new screen, my guess is that the cable isn't an exact match and that it has a different layout of the individual wires. See if you can make a close-up picture of the connector on the motherboard end of both the old and the new cable.

Although the connector has 40 pins, this doesn't mean there are 40 wires as well; it's dependent on the lcd model and the manufacturer of the laptop to decide the number of wires they need and where each ends up. If your motherboard supplies voltage for the backlight on, say, pin #26, but there's no wire at that pin in the cable then the backlight will, of course, remain off.

Yes, that's correct.

 

clear with the 40 pins/wires - there is a little difference in the cable of course when you check the attached pictures.
Tested the original cable with the new lcd and there it's also a ghost screen.

So something with the backlight or current (note: the akkumulator is broken, system is just working with power supply) sounds logical also for me - but to be honest I'm not sure where to find this backlight? Shouldn'd this be for lcds attached on the lcd-backside, under this foil where the cable-connector is positioned? If I understood it corret, I don't have a CCL type of screen - where you got an extra transistor for this light?
But I guess that the black and silver foil behind the lcd mount (see attachment 'overview') is for the contrast of the light? (therefore I asked, if I need to mount the lcd complete for testing..)
How to test the backlight then? But if included in the lcd.. this cannot be the reason as the 2nd is a new screen.

best regards
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View attachment 118061

 

Yes, unfortunately both cables are wrapped, so it's impossible to check; can see all pins, but not the wires that attach to these.

They're sandwiched in near the sides of the panel, you can't see (or access) them without removing the plastic/white tape and small screws at the sides of the panel.

True, you have LED-type, so there's no need for a transformer (backlight inverter). CCFL needs high voltage, but LED doesn't.

Bit weird, but don't recall ever needing that, except with CCFL types when replacing the tubes. Though it is possible the foil is grounded (the casing usually is), so sure, give it a try with lcd mounted in the casing.

Something else you can check concerning the cable; the 2 or 3 pins at the far end of the connector at the lcd side are the 5V power lines for the panel. If you have a multimeter you can check whether there's current going through them when the system's powered on.

 

I'm running out of ideas.. mounting didn't work (as somehow expected..)

I got a small multimeter but the pins on the cable are that tiny, that it is impossible to just check one wire with this (and I'm afraid anyway to touch two pins at the same time, destroying something? danger of short circuit?) Hm, anyway Sony hotline told me that they JUST deliver original parts and I had to tell them my exact manufactoring No. so this should be the original cable now - and I can't image a problem here because:

a) The broken old lcd has a ghostscreen with the old and the new cable and the new lcd screen has a ghost screen with the old and the new cable?

And to recall:
1) The old lcd worked with the old cable (just with a display crack)
2) Ordered a new lcd (less resolution then the original lcd was)
3) Installed the new lcd and had a flicker/banding white screen, rebootet 2 times.
4) Reinstalled the old lcd and ghostscreen
5) tested the new one again and just black screen (also no ghost screen)
6) reordered a new cable and tested with this two screen - same result, ghost screen on old - nothing on new
7) reorderer a new lcd (with HD resolution as the original was)
8) see a)

So I just can imagine the gpu broken? Don't think that it is possible/does make any sense, to waste more time in this case, as it's then too expensive to invest more money?

best regards!

 

Yes, think you're out of options. It's certainly not the gpu, but it might be the motherboard or power supply. A new mb is probably too expensive (and a lot of work to replace), checking with a different power adapter is easier (if you can borrow one or have a spare), brand doesn't matter, just needs ~19V and sufficient capacity (Watts).

 

I know also tested a spared identically power supply - with same results:

with both cables/both screens > ghost screen.

Perhaps as last possibility: a wrong bios setup?

Otherwise I also think that something in the motherboard gone broke in the act, as I first used this wrong - not HD screen - where white stripes appeared (and after rechange, also the old screen had a ghost screen which was not before)..

 

Perhaps, and a reset certainly wouldn't hurt, nor a newer version; there are settings hidden to the user, after all. Although the new-original lcd should've worked either way ...

If that didn't do the trick, I'd still check the 5V lines; either the mb's damaged or, worst of luck, the backlight of the brand new screen is doa. This is the layout of a 40-pin lvds type:

Spoiler: LVDS 40pin 6-bit, 1ch and 2ch layout

Pins #38, #39 and/or #40 ought to be powered for the backlight to work ("Led Power Supply"). Not all of them are necessary, it depends on the lcd itself; a quality screen has higher brightness, but at the cost of extra power draw and a more expensive backlight. Anyway, since they're are at the outermost edge you can safely check them at the lcd end of the cable. That way it doesn't matter how the cable or motherboard is wired; power has to end up in the same place for the same lvds/6-bit lcd. Don't worry about touching both #38+#39 or #39+#40, at worst you'll measure 10V.

 

ok, or better not okay..

Tested the pins as you mentioned with both cables - and really: 0V....

Also did try to do it the way around, as I wasn't sure if numbering 1-40 is left to right or right to left but however, there should have been a value if it works correct.

okay - so very last interpretation of this: defect on MB and therefore game over?

 

Well ... yes, probably.

There's one caveat; one of the pins might be used to check whether or not there's an lcd present before providing power. Could be the purpose of "LED Enable". Hmm, let me check on a working system if this is true (am curious). Will report back in a day or two.

 

ok, I'm finished with this. I think there's finally no possibility.

If someone is interested in the mentioned new screen/cable > PM

So thanks for the great support in here anyway!!

all the best!

 

Hmm, right, promised to check connector ... tomorrow, I promise ^^ .

A 15.6" 40pin LVDS 1080p sounds tempting ... trying to find some excuse to justify purchasing it from you ... it makes for a nice upgrade on so many systems, only need an acquaintance with a broken screen first.

And sorry things didn't pan out. It can be pretty frustrating to put so much time into something and have a negative result ... though I tend to retroactively rewrite such episodes/projects as ' skills acquired' and 'knowledge gained' ... or somesuch gibberish .

 

Turn out this is not the case; LVDS connector is powered, regardless presence of an lcd. And yes, you do need to be careful not causing a short (oopsie ), damn 5V pins were near the middle on my system (no ill effect, save some burn marks on the pcb).

Ergo; damaged motherboard (due to overdraw?). Though these boards have fuses for that kind of situation, perhaps you might pick up on that in a year or so (once the tinker-battery is recharged), or sell it with the remark 'check/replace lcd-connector fuse'.

 

thanks so much for your great support! Sometimes it goes this way, sometimes that way.
As you wrote: anyway I can say, I gained much knowledge on this

I think I will use the laptop now with an old external screen - for other troubleshooting issues or as temporary working station.

So anyway - wish you all the best, especially for the upcoming year 2015!

king regards
Andreas

 

Hi,

Apologies if I am reviving a dying thread, I am in a somewhat similar situation, except that I'm looking to see if I can upgrade my CCFL screen 768p to LED backlit Full HD 1080p (as the lamp could do with a replacement anyway).

I believe I have a near identical Sony Vaio: VPCEB2C5E, ATI Radeon 5650, looking at your pictures it appears to be exactly the same motherboard too (although this I wouldn't know how to confirm - it just appears that all the little numbers match up).

Except that my laptop came with a CCFL 1366x768 LCD screen:
LG Philips LG156WH1 (TL)(C1)
With a 30 pin connector to the screen and a 40 pin to the motherboard. (I guess "F" is 1080p and "C" is 768p, also I think C1 stands for glossy.)

http://www.panelook.com/modelcompare.php?ids=12287,5716,5713

The CCFL LCD cable is:
M970 LCD Cable 015-0101-1508_A(LA) 100802 Rev:A

Doing a search:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-...-EB15FX-EB16FX-015-0301-1516/32251569864.html
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_o...0201,+0301,+0401)+-cover+(lcd,+lvds)&_sacat=0

It seems that cables ending with 1508 or 1593 returns a CCFL cable ("4 connectors). 1507 and 1516 are LED cables for VPC-EA and VPC-EB. Unfortunately it gives no detail as to whether different cables are needed for 768p and 1080p. I also don't know if the "0101" to "0301" makes any vital difference.

Taking the LCD cable codes from the eetgroup website and searching in ebay:

http://uk.eetgroup.com/Guide/m/Sony-Vaio-Notebook-VPCEB2C5E?filter=lcd+cable
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_o...2A).TRS0&_nkw=(A1779048A,+A1773432A)&_sacat=0

Gives some hits from IPC-Computer-Shop - reading their description it says the cable only supports 768p. Although I am not sure why there are two different LCD LED cables available...

In short I am more confused now than when I started... If it is possible could I ask:

What is the part number of the new screen cable you ordered?
What is your laptop number (VPCEBXXXX)?
If possible to peek underneath the old and new cable and take a picture (to see if there may be any difference in the wiring)?


Seeing as your laptop originally came with a 1080p screen, I'm sure my laptop is able to as well, with a cable change too. It's a question of whether or not there are two different LED cables for 768p and 1080p, the answer to which eludes me. I've ordered an LED cable which so I will check the number of that, but I don't know if it came from a FHD laptop. If there are any pictures that would help I'd be happy to take them.

Many kind regards --B