Cooling Laptop

Hi,
I'm assuming to combine a cooling pad (with metal grille) with a semiconductor cooling system.
The principle is based on bringing cold air to the laptop and inside it to ensure more effective heat exchange.
And whether to add thermal pads on the heatsinks (Where the heat passes to the dissipative fins) to transfer heat to the lower body? [example ] ( https://drive.google.com/file/d/1F7lVGqyPBa-MY3p7fbGe8PybDN9-lxaH/view?usp=drivesdk)
The question is... Could there be condensation in case the temperature difference is high enough?

The idea would be to use a KLIM ULTIMATE as pad.

In the pictures I indicate the possible position of the cooler.

 

Condensation only happens when the material reaches dew point. Use calculator like this ( http://www.dpcalc.org/) and the measurement to see if what temperature the coldest point is and see if that is at or below dew point compared to the surrounding temperature, if not, no worries.

 

For example, you're home is at 22C, at 60% relative humidity (in average American homes), dew point is 14C, so if insides of laptop is 15C or higher, no chance of condensation. In the winter, 60% RH is high, usually reaches 40% without humidfifier, unless if you are living in tropical regions, at 40% RH, at 22C home, 8C dew point, quite unlikely to reach when the computer is generating heat.

 

I don't know what laptop that is but a few quick thoughts:

- Figure out where the bottlenecks are for your system and uses and target those.

- Laptops typically are heat and / or power constrained. Sometimes small changes can boost performance significantly. Hot mosfets get very inefficient so produce less power.

- Low hanging fruit:
--> Run internal fans aggressively with firmware.
--> If you have a power throttling issue, maybe ThrottleStop helps sort that with power commands & easy SpeedShift adjustments (with high EPP).
--> Maybe you can undervolt the CPU and GPU.
--> Try better thermal paste.

- Maybe increasing the intake ducts will increase cooling. You may see unintended issues like: case weakens/breaks, safety decrease, decrease in bass response from the speakers, decreased cooling on some other components (e.g. power mosfets) etc.
--> We drilled 2 large holes with a holedozer in the case bottom of an old Macbook Pro.

- Check the intake and exhaust ducts are properly sealed.
--> We added 3m super88 electrical tape between the fan and radiator for a Dell XPS laptop

- The case bottom is not a fantastic heat sink.
-- > The copper pipes have a black coating with I think is for thermal and electrical insulation, so there may be safety and heat considerations.
--> Putting thermal pads between the copper pipes and the case bottom may change clamping force on the dies. And potentially stress the motherboard standoffs, which are delicate in laptops.
--> Not removing the black heat pipe coating and using foamy thermal pads might be a "better" alternative but won't put much heat into the case bottom.
--> Removing heat from a flat metal case bottom with a fan is inefficient.

- If you have a thermal gun or AIDA64 software maybe you can look at mosfet temps for potential thermal throttling issues. If you can keep these cool, they can produce a lot more power.

 

Cooling pads are a seller Dream Paradise MONEY maker. They don't cool your laptop by any stretch of the imagination. What you need to do is open the laptop and clean the fans and grill if it has those and repaste your CPU or GPU if they are integrated. This will insure longevity and lower operating temps on your CPU and or GPU if integrated.

 

99% of them, yes. But a CoolerMaster Notepal U2 or U3 (or something similar - a simple perfurated plate) with some proper fans (Noctua A12x25 for example) will definitely cool a laptop. Heck, even without fans, these improve temps just by virtue of raising the laptop. Of course, the difference between improving temps by a lot or not, depends on a laptop´s design/chassis/cooling solution.

I can provide you some numbers if you like.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/modding-my-cooler-master-notepal-u3-plus.809628/

 

I just got myself a CM Storm with 180mm fan. There is not even a noticeable different in load temperature with fan on/off but rasing the laptop definitely drops 5~10C on load. With the fan on, the idle temp drops by another ~5C but nothing noticeable while on load.

 

The fans in laptop cooler stands are crap.

The ones that came with my CM U2 v2 also. No difference in temps, and they're noisy.

Swapped them by two Noctua A12x25 and there's a huge difference during load. I can game now with my laptop's fans capped to 70% and the Noctua fans rpm speed set to match the noise levels of the laptop. Temps are well under control and not reaching the point where the GPU starts to downclock a bit. With UV on the CPU and GPU, the GPU (Rtx 3080 165w) reaches now +-1825mhz at 0.9v.

 

Gee, DIYing that would be so much cheaper. Thanks for taking the pain of sorting this.

 

I also have two CM U2/U3's. I am planning to put all the stock fans on one cooler and see if that helps, fi ti doesn't I'll try the DIY method with some Noctuas.

 

Here's my setup: http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...r-notepal-u3-plus.809628/page-8#post-11133232