Fake 330w Power Adapter or just poor quality??

EDIT: This was a bad adapter that failed in 3.5 months of use and AdapterFamily.com will not replace it, despite my request to exchange it the first week I received it. I do NOT recommend giving this company your business. They do not stand by their product and either deal in counterfeit or possibly sell known problematic.refurb products that they acquire at a discounted rate without informing the buyer.

I bought a 330w Delta adapter (Which is supposedly a decent brand) from a company whose name I will omit for the time being and was eager to benchmark my Clevo P750DM-G since I also recently upgraded from a i5 6500 to an i7 6700k. I also run a G-Sync version GTX 980m 8GB GPU with an upgraded and slightly overclocked vBIOS. I also run 16GB of Hyperx DDR4 running at 2400MHz. I am only running a 1080p screen for now since it's the most I can handle with the programs I use.

I was expecting to see great results with the new power adapter since I hit some power limits with the stock 230w Chicony, however, my 3D Mark 11 benchmarks actually went down...

At first, I thought maybe a throttling issue of sorts, until I re-evaluated HWinfo and GPUz. That's when I decided to measure the power it was pulling from the wall. The new 330w adapter pulls a whopping 206 peak watts from the wall, while my 230 watt chicony rocks out a steady 217 watts during benchmarking with 3D Mark 11.

I will attach screenshots of the results for those of you who are interested.

I am a person who likes to get the best possibly deal without sacrificing on quality and so I contacted this company before purchasing and they assured me this power adapter is legit. Sadly, it's not...

I paid $99 for this poor quality adapter. I just placed an order for a authentic Chicony and look forward to receiving it. I will post back when I have results.

I will consider this a lesson learned and offer the advice to stick with reputable brands like Chicony. A power adapter is not something you want to go cheap on.

Benchmark and HWinfo with 230w Chicony:


Benchmark and HWinfo with 330w Delta:

 

A lot of people are either selling duds or things that don't live up to the specs in the first place.
For example, I've seen plenty of chargers online being sold (from Amazon no less) that end up either not working from the get go, or the capacity is much lower than what it should be (this is usually in the case of batteries for mobile phones and laptops).

For things like batteries and chargers, you really need to find reputable sources that won't overcharge you, but at the same time won't sell you a piece of trash that doesn't work.

 

A power supply can't cause throttling. Exceeding the limits of an AC Adapter will just make it shut off and switch to battery power.
Did you see if your laptop is switching to battery during your tests? Battery switch like this should require the PSU to be UNPLUGGED to reset it if it happens.

Are you using a PREMA BIOS?
However a counterfeit PSU with a 19.0v rating rather than 19.5v may cause issues.

The Delta 330W PSU is rated for: 19.5V, 16.9A.
Can you take a picture of your back of your PSU (Clearly please)?

 

It's very unfortunate. One thing I'm considering is that there is perhaps a setting on my computer that it preventing it from utilizing the power of the new power supply. However, that would not account for why it's giving less power than my 230w brick. Deltas are supposedly good power supplies, so maybe someone swapped out the internals, or maybe it's counterfeit. The only thing that's known is that it's not working well with my laptop and it's very frustrating.

 

It is 19.5v, at least that's what it says

 

Please excuse my ignorance, but where should I look to see if it's switching to battery power? And what would cause it to do this?

thank you for the help

 

Also, I am using a Prema BIOS. I will attach a CPUz capture to show which one.

 

Thank you

 

The simplest is to bench with the battery pulled and see if the laptop turns off during testing.

If you're worried about the tiny chance of data loss from the above method, your laptop has LEDs for battery power and wall power. If wall power cuts out the wall power LED will turn off, and your framerate will drop to around 1/4th of what it was until the PSU turns back on a few seconds later.

If the PSU never turns off then it is doing exactly what it should be doing and your problem lies elsewhere.

 

Several things can contribute towards throttling... most frequent one being too high temperatures.
However, that does not appear to be the case here.

Also, which power mode is set in Windows?
Power saver, Balanced or High Performance?
Try setting the laptop to High Performance and also checking GPU Boost 2 (to see if its been disabled).
I could have sworn I saw someone mentioning that GPU Boost 2 being disabled contributes to lower scores.

Also try to undervolt the CPU - afraid you cannot do this with Maxwell or Pascal GPU's because Nvidia tied the voltages to the clocks it would seem.

But generally it just looks like your system isn't getting the juice it needs - which is why it would be prudent to check the power settings in Windows.

Apart from that, try removing the overclock on the GPU.
Have you made any changes to the BIOS when changing the power supply?

 

I wonder if the power limit is programmed into the computer and the difference you are seeing in power at the wall outlet reflects differences in conversion efficiency. eg if the computer's power limit is 180W then, for the old (Chicony) PSU 180/217 = 83% efficiency and, for the new (Delta) PSU, 180/206 = 87% efficiency (a different power limit will change these percentages). If this reasoning is correct then the Delta PSU is the better one.

John

 

Ok, I ran 3D mark with the 330w with the battery removed, windows power setting was already on high performance and it ran exactly the same. I don't believe it's a thermal issue. I haven't yet tried undervolting the CPU by -100mv. I'm running Prema's BIOS on default settings. I also tried it with stock BIOS and no overclock and surprisingly it got pretty much the same score in 3D Mark 11.

The whole reason I upgraded to the 330w PSU was because I saw power supply caps when using the old 220w supply.

John,
Your reasoning makes sense. I did the numbers to see how much power I should actually be pulling and considering the CPU is only pulling 65w while the GPU is pulling 121w, with the motherboard, SSD, fans, etc accounting for the rest of it, so 206 is about right. However...

What doesn't make sense to me is that the new 330w power supply is giving a lower graphic scores than my 220w supply. I have tried it back and forth several times with the power supply being the only thing I’m changing and the 3DMark11 score is about 800-1,000 points less with the bigger power supply.

The only thing I can think of is that there is a setting restricting the computer from making use of the 330w. If anyone has an idea or has dealt with this issue before, please let me know what I can do. I’ve played around with settings and I’m trying to research this, but I haven’t found a solution yet.

Thank you for the support, I appreciate it very much!

 

I bought a 330 watt for the rig in my signature because I upgraded to a 100 watt GPU plus I have a 130 watt CPU. When I first plugged it in, my cursor started going erratic (thinking and jumping around) and seemed as if my circuitry wasn't going to be able to handle the extra amperage. I left it plugged in just to see if it would settle down and it never did so, I went back to my 220 watt psu thinking that I was going to be stuck with that. They next day when I started it up, I said why not and tried it again. It started acting normal immediately, so I ran fire strike and my score went up over 500 points without adjusting anything.

Your machine might be regulating the extra amperage that it's receiving because it possibly never was originally engineered for a 19.5 amp psu. Try to plug it back in again and see if it adjusts and allows the extra power through, mine did.

 

The only thing that makes any sense to me is that the 330W PSU is lower than 19.5V. Effeciency means nothing to the laptop. It gets a voltage and current and it doesn't care how. Newer laptops will read the current and impose amperage limits. If the voltage received is lower than expected, then the laptop will not draw as much power due to the current limit.

As for a laptop "adjusting" to the PSU that is also impossible. Clevo systems do not read the PSU to find out what it is. You can only get stuttery behavior if the PSU is not plugged in well and the laptop is flickering back and forth between the PSU and battery very very fast.

Try reading the PSU's nominal output voltage with a multimeter directly from the laptop plug and see what it is.

 

Thank you for the advice Khenglish, you certainly know your stuff. I tested the voltages and sure enough the 330w PS voltage was lower than the 230w PS, however it's minimal and I am surprised this would cause this kind of variance in benchmarking scores.

So, the question is, what do I do now? I suppose I will try to return it since I assume it's a bad power supply, right?

Thank you again for all of your help and everyone else who has offered advice here. I hope that this thread will also help others in this situation

 

One thing I don't understand is how the voltage could effect the laptop when the laptop has a voltage regulator in it that reduces the voltage anyway.

Another thing I looked into is the efficiency ratings of these adapters and the Chicony has a higher efficiency rating with tier VI rather than the Delta's tier V efficiency rating.

I just want to better understand what's happening here and also want to know how people like Mr. Fox gets his 980m to produce a 14,000 score in 3DMark11.

 

By adding the 3 missing power FETs to the MXM board, and overclocking it. Your GPU appears to be at stock clocks on a non-Prema vBIOS.

I get 15K graphics at my daily driver settings (check sig) but 13K overall because my CPU is slow and 3DM11 overall score is highly influenced by CPU.

The choice of OS also makes a difference. Windows 7 gives the highest 3DM11 scores (it's the opposite with FS which favors W8/10).

 

Not sure if you noticed it, but in the screenshot for the 330W Delta PSU, Performance Limit - Power was tripped for your GPU.
I noticed while benchmarking my GTX 980M (in P750ZM, Chicony 230W) with Heaven Unigine that whenever that kicked in there's fluctuations in GPU Video Clock. You can find the HWInfo log + benchmark results in the attached file (columns BO and BV, first run is the affected run).

I noticed that the 330W PSU you got has a red female adapter as opposed to the black one that my P870DM 330W PSU has. I could (very likely) be wrong, but I think the one you bought might be for an ASUS laptop. The PSU itself might have a ID chip which checks for the laptop it is plugged in and caps the power as explained here with the Dell version. The Clevo version of the 330W PSU does not have that chip or at least it doesn't check.

 

I am running Prema's vBIOS for the GSync 980m 8GB as well as Prema's system BIOS for this P750DM-G. As far as the power supply goes, the place where I bought it sold it as a Clevo P37xSM-A Adapter, so it should work fine for my machine, unless I was sent the wrong one. I do think it's odd that the plug is red.

What are you doing to get a 15k graphics score? I repasted with Gelid GC-Extreme and the temps actually improved a little, but it didn't effect the benchmarks. My GPU is only going up to 54 C temp during my 3DMark11 run.
The image below is with the 330w adapter and Gelid paste. The CPU scores look great, and it seems to be running well, it's just my GPU score that's lacking here and I think it's somehow effected by the adapter.

Any ideas about what I should try next? I was getting 14,700 graphics score with a 980m in my P150SM-A and have never achieved that in this machine. I thought it was possibly the CPU or PSU, so I upgraded to the 6700k and a 330w adapter and my score went down, this is driving me nuts.

What can I do to get to the bottom of this?

Thank you

 

If you're asking me, like I said, I overclocked my 980M. The clocks and voltage it's running at, and benchmarks, are in my sig. +225 MHz core, +200 MHz memory, +100 mV in Nvidia Inspector. GPU Power in HWiNFO64 is over 150W at 100% load and 70C with these settings.

Your card probably can't run my settings stably unless you mod your MXM board to add the 3 missing power FETs. The unmodified 980M MXM comes with 3/6 FETs filled and craps out with black screen crashes well before 150W, while I can game for hours without a hint of instability probably because my BGA 980M has 6 FETs by default.

Your stock Graphics Score with 230W PSU in the OP is basically identical to mine: https://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/12483934

 

Here's my GPUz info for this GPU, I also ran 3DMark11 again with the 230w since I didn't try it since the Gelid repaste and it's higher than before. It's not 14,000+ as I feel it should be, but it seems to be within normal working range. It also shows only 43% TDP, but I don't think this helps solve this issue. I think I'm going to just return the power supply since it seems to be the issue. If anyone knows of a legit source for a bigger power supply at a reasonable price, please PM me.

Thank you

 

I posted before seeing your response. I sent you a PM asking where I could find more info on adding the 3 FETs. I'd like to do this mod.

 

I just replied to your PM.

A 980M at stock does not score 14K in 3DM11 graphics. Not sure why you feel it should.

 

I thought I remembered my p150sm-a getting a 14k graphic score, but I must be remembering wrong. Thank you again.

 

When checking your result for the 330W PSU it looks like vsync is on, or something is preventing fps from exceeding 60. Your graphics test 3 is exactly 59.9 fps, while test 3 on the 230w is 80 fps. The 330w PSU actually had a better result for test 4, which a 980m cannot hit 60 fps on.

So check if you can exceed 60 fps on the 330w psu.

 

I did just that recently here. It was a painful process for since it was my first time doing it, and I did it because I have a lot more to gain in adding the FETs than I stand losing (read: card was dead but otherwise fixable). I wouldn't recommend doing this mod unless you know you are somewhat competent in electronics (and have $$$ to spare).Total material cost for me was around $100-150 range (W.E.P. 858D hot air reflow station, HAKKO 936 soldering iron, legit AMTECH flux, CSD87350Q5D MOSFET, wick, solder...), but I think you could get away with cheaper flux, a less expensive soldering iron, free TI samples for .edu email addresses.

 

Khenglish,
I appreciate your observations, however, I didn't change settings between testing the two adapters so I don't understand how this could have happened. Is it possible that my laptop is recognizing the 330w adapter and reduced performance settings somehow as a result? I will take screenshots of NVIDIA control panel settings between the two adapters and compare to see if they change.

Perhaps it's just a chip incompatibility issue, but I still feel like the slow down is an issue with the 330w.

Darker,
Considering the performance increase I have seen with the FET mod, it's worth it to me. I want to use my setup for VR and don't feel like paying $700 for a 1060 or 1070. As far as skills needed, I will practice on something else first. Also, I use to solder small SMD components when I made infrared receivers and transmitters. I'm familiar with the importance of good flux and cleanliness. Lack of it was the major cause early difficulties I had when soldering and I learned how it makes all the difference.

As far as the brand of hot air work station is concerned, what do you think of using a cheaper one like a Zeny or Yaogong? I don't want to go too cheap, but I don't want to pay for more than I need since I probably won't use it much after this.

As far as technique, do you have any advice to offer?

Thank you again to all!

 

The added FETs only help performance if you overvolt. If you don't raise the voltage, then they don't help you.

 

Thank you for that bit of info Khenglish, I will overvolt a little at a time until I get to the highest stable voltage and then back it off a little for reliability purposes. I just ordered some Thermal Grizzly since the Gelid seemed to help a little. Even if it only lowers temps a few degrees it will help. One thing I'd like to add is that the Gelid GP-Extreme thermal pads seemed to make a difference in my score as well. I wonder what a CPU delid will do, but I'm getting a little off topic so I will stop there.

 

I believe any functional 858D will do the job, but the catch is that it has to be functional. The W.E.P. 858D is unremarkable and using it carries an inherent risk of burning down your house like any of the other 858D clones made with chinesium, but I know for a fact that the unit I have wasn't haphazardly designed or assembled. I popped open the main housing + the heating element housing to check for how the fuse is wired, is the metal chassis/heat gun metal shroud grounded, and is there anything loose inside. My unit had a broken piece of plastic inside the heating element housing, but it was otherwise functional and safe enough for me to use. Amazon at time of writing has both the Zeny and Yaogong 858D for about $10 cheaper than what I paid for mine. Get one, check it, and exchange until satisfied.

1st pic shows my setup. I had the HAKKO 936 set at around 300*C and used chisel tip. The W.E.P. hot air rework station was set at 400 on the display, blow speed was set to maximum, and nozzle was the round type that came with the station (9 mm diameter I think). Note that I placed the card on a ceramic tile, followed by a piece of cardboard, and finally the cutting mat. The cardboard is there to insulate the tile from the plastic cutting mat, and the cutting mat is there to protect the glass table. The row of FETs is at the end of the PCB, so some of the hot air will heat up whatever the card is on.

Watch this to see how the MOSFET is removed and replaced. Louis Rossmann's content in general deals with hot air and iron soldering on circuit boards. I watched a lot of his stuffs for a couple of months before I started fixing my GTX 980M. His technique is on point and should be followed as closely as possible. I find it helpful that the lead-free solder on the PCB be replaced with leaded solder since the latter melts at a lower temperature. Be extra careful with the amount of solder you deposited on the pads (especially the ground pad) though as excess solder may cause the pins to bridge or the MOSFET not flat.

Right, after depositing flux and placing the MOSFET as closely aligned as possible (make damn sure Pin 1 location is correct), I started heating the area of the MOSFET itself with the tip being about 1-2 inch above the MOSFET. Since you are adding new MOSFETs, be extra careful with the existing MOSFETs nearby. I find that after the solder at the new MOSFET melted, the solder at the surrounding MOSFETs will easily melt as well. Once you see the MOSFET moves slightly, use the tweezer to press it down for good contact. Inspect the new MOSFET to see that it's both flat, and its pins are all aligned. Check the 2 large pads on the connector for a possible short to ground. Repeat till all MOSFETs are added. I used the hot air station set at the lowest temperate possible to dry the board after I cleaned the flux off with 90% IPA. Excess flux tended to get stuck in the space among the chokes and the caps. I'm pretty sure there's leftover flux at those spots on my card, but I don't think it can kill the card in the short term.

More MOSFETs may not make the card work any better. I'm not sure if the Clevo service center accept the card once you messed with it or not, but I highly doubt that they do.

 

Excellent, thank you very much for the thorough response. I have bought all the things needed and just waiting for it to arrive now. I decided also to delid and wonder if I should replace the heat spreader with one of the upgraded versions from Poland.

Like this:

 

You're welcome. You weren't the first to ask me how I added the MOSFET. I had that response prepared awhile ago. You sounded like you know what to expect, so I guess sharing my experience with you will do more good than harm.

Another after-market IHS you should consider is the one for Skylake from BitsPower. Regardless of whichever IHS you choose, you probably need to lap the IHS (and maybe the heat sink itself) until it's perfectly flat. Clevo machines often have their heat sinks warped, and the easiest way to check for this is by observing the distribution of thermal paste on the IHS. Thicker uneven locations equals larger heat sink-IHS gap.

If you want to go absolutely bonker with modifications to lower CPU temp, see this and give Mr. Fox some reps.

 

Oh very nice, love the info I'm getting here. I think this is a good platform to push the limits on. At first I was rather disappointed when I was told that it couldn't even take a 1060, but things have changed since then and I'm starting to like this rig. It runs my 3D programs well enough, but starts lagging on the bigger jobs. That's what got me to look for improvements. The 1070 isn't out of reach price wise, but at $700 I just don't think the performance increase will be enough to account for the cost.

Getting back to the primary topic, I think I'm going to need a bigger power supply once I add those FETs. 150w GPU, 95w CPU, RAM, fans, etc will put me around 300w. A high efficiency 330w adapter will be needed. Advice on which one to get will be appreciated. I'm not cheap, but I do like to be cost effective and would rather not spend $230 on something if I can find it for $130.

This is all appreciated very much

 

Imagine my profound disappointment when I found that the upgrade path of my P750ZM being at best a TDP-limited GTX 1070. When all else fails, at least your P750DM has the option to jam a desktop GPU in. IMHO NGFF/M.2 eGPU is the more cost-effective GPU upgrade solution here albeit slightly bulkier.

Back to the main topic: I know Clevo resellers like RJTech, Eurocom, and HIDEvolution offer 330W upgrades for a cool $165. Still, check software settings and whatnot to make sure that it isn't software issue or Windows 10 being utter garbage. Take Khenglish's words over mine.

EDIT: 330W PSU brands I've seen are LiteOn and Delta, and there's only one 330W PSU design with 4-PIN DIN around. Generic unbranded 330W PSUs from China exist and occasionally pop up on eBay, but I wouldn't touch those. Delta's your safest bet here still. Both Eurocom and HIDEvolution have presence on NBR forums, and they are pretty reputable.

 

Ya, the ZM really got the shaft. NGFF/M.2 eGPU is awesome, but my clients would be wondering if their home is going to burn down. If I can get my machine running VR smoothly, I will be very pleased.

This PSU is a Delta 330w that's supposedly for a Clevo P370SM-A, and maybe that's the problem. It seems like it's being recognized as a 230w or lower. I haven't found anything in the settings yet, but I haven't had alot of time to look through the settings yet. I will take a closer look tomorrow. I'm just using my 230w adapter for now to try and finish a project.

I'm surprised no one else has had this issue. I might order one from HID or Eurocom so that I know for sure I have one intended for this machine.

 

There are other implementations other than that prone-to-overheating adapter designed for mining rigs. The more expensive PE4C v4.1 gives you the assurance that power delivery is properly managed, but enough about that.

Still though, if the PSU crapped out during any of your benchmark, the battery would discharge, or you get an instant shut down. When you have time, run the benchmarks with HWInfo logging in the background with both PSU's.

EDIT: Try doing the benchmarks with a full battery this time. Not sure if it affects anything, but for the sake of consistency.

 

I tried using a full battery, it didn't make a difference. I'm going to try and exchange it for a different adapter. I just don't feel I should be having these kinds of issues with this adapter.

I also plan to delid, redo the thermal padding on my GPU, and make some other changes to try and reduce heat.

Thank you again for all the help everyone has provided here.

 

fake == poor quality

 

I havent been here in a while, but while I was gone I delidded my 6700k and swapped out my 980m for a 1060. It's giving better benchmarks, but I know it can do even better than what I'm seeing. I get a 13500 3DMk11 score with a 14000+ graphics score.

What's weird about the CPU delid is that my idle temps went up while my benchmarking temps went down a couple degrees and are more consistent across the cores. I used Thermal Grizzly conductonaut for the relidding of the CPU and also the repaste. Idk, it's a weird result

 

I decided to redo the Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut and also delidded/relidded again and lapped the 6700k IHS this time. I will post up some pics later. My 6700k cpu max core temp dropped 10C degrees from 75C to 65C on stock clocks during a 3DMark11 run. My physics and combined score went up, possibly due to the better temps, though I'm not sure. The 330W brick seems to run the GTX 1060 just fine. No idea why it was giving a lower score with the 980m, but it doesn't really matter now, I suppose.

One thing that is weird to me is that my idle temps seem to have increased a little, while my max core temps under load are quite a bit lower now. Anyhow, my machine is running much faster and better in general and should last a while before any upgrading is necessary again.

Thank you again to everyone who offered support here, there was some very helpful advise and I appreciate it all very much.

 

I just wanted to post a conclusion to this thread. The power adapter in question has now completely died, less than 4 months! I knew there was something wrong with it, considering its performance was weaker than the 230w Chicony adapter.

What's worse about this is that the company I bought it from will not replace it, even though I contacted them the first week I received it to tell them about the situation.

I just wanted to let everyone know that I bought it from Adapter Family at adapterfamily.com and they do not stand by their product.

 

@MKazmer
How did you pay for it?
Please contact your bank and see if they will do a chargeback. They may not but if they are selling defective merchandise not as advertised, you have nothing to lose.

 

I bought a 80$ adapter off Amazon 330w from PC mate as new. I wasn't getting what I expected from it, namely a decrease in wattage (a Max of only 250w) and otherwise poor performance. Being the inquisitive type I opened it up. Lol and behold, the adapter is a poor Chinese imitation with water damage of the 330w. Sending it back tomorrow. Apparently what people are doing is selling these crap adapters as new but having instead a new case. Mine actually had evidence of overheating and solder melt, with part of the PCB seperating from the heat.

If any of you are worried about your adapters, make sure you check their guts.

 

Legit Delta

Spoiler

VS

POS

Spoiler

fun fact, the POS shocked me pretty badly because when i originally opened it the copper ground wasn't connected to the shielding. it was just floating there, and shorted to my hand.

Aside from the cosmetic differences, the POS has some really low quality chinese capacitors, while the Delta has a lot of high quality Panasonic and other capacitors. means cleaner power. It also has a two stage shielding, with four posts instead of one, a green PCB, (unlike the POS, which has a puke yellow one) and is completely intact on all sides. For charging 80$, the POS has a broken corner, burnt solder, a TORN shield (likely from the person's inexperience taking these apart), a double conductor wire (not 4 like the delta), among water damage and other things like the solder damage you see, it uses leaded solder as well. Despite all these things, it still failed to provide a 330W line charge. Not only that, but the cases are indistinguishable from the actual Delta. In my opinion these people are selling these POS products in legit casing to a consumer that won't usually open their product, likely have replaced the ACTUAL DELTA with this POS!

 

That looks like a repackaged aka sold as e-waste, recovered and re-cased AC unit.

 

Quick question for you, were the cases for these power supplies glued shut? I bought a fairly inexpensive Ebay Delta 330 ADB power supply, and attempted to open it up for inspection. I had to purchase some protected torx style screwdriver bits, which worked fine for removing the screws, but then discovered that the cover is glued together, which seems totally unnecessary given that it is held together by 4 screws.

 

OP I just found your thread and out of interest I looked up the UL number you included on the first page.
It is legit registered to delta electronics https://database.ul.com/cgi-bin/XYV...n=versionless&parent_id=1073787374&sequence=1

But I could not find a model '330AB' or 'ADP-330' on the website. Maybe delta did not submit this model to UL, but I find it more likely that someone just overrated this power supply and printed the delta logo on there for fun. It is likely that delta does not even manufacture this model and you got scammed.

Here is some other evidence: this model '330AB' on amazon has an otherwise identical sticker label to yours but is missing the delta logo.
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Charger-Desktop-Trident-ADP-330AB/dp/B07BP2C74G

What I'm trying to say is that delta does not make this power supply. It is some rebranded generic unit. If they refuse to refund you, log on to your credit card website/call your bank and file a chargeback.

 

Delta Electronics certainly does make legitimate versions of these power supplies. This model ADP330AB D is what was included with my MSI GT75 Titan.

 

It doesn't bode too well in that case. After removing the screws it should pop apart. Some of these power supplies are remarkable in the fact they are so crappy. I do have two extras, one with a 4 pin cord and the other with a 5.5mm barrel plug. The 5.5mm is one I modded personally from a Dell 330adp to fit my old p157.