Getting windows on ssd

Ok so I installed a new Samsung 840 pro ssd but figured out my computer has 2 hard drive slots so I put the seagate momentus xt in the other... How do I get windows off the hdd and onto the ssd... Also is there anything else I should put on ssd rather thanhdd

 

You don't exactly "get Windows off the hdd and onto the ssd", per se. You can either clone the drive and image the new SSD (make sure it's aligned first!), or you do a fresh Windows install (recommended) and then simply transfer your data if you want it on the SSD.

Best bet is to store your operating system and programs on the SSD. Any user data should go on the Momentus XT drive. Other than that, you should be good.

 

Here is an article/guide to migrating an OS from HDD to SSD, although I don't know if I'd recommend that route necessarily. Another option is to install the SSD in the primary bay and install the OS (and programs) from scratch. This could be your best option depending on your OS and if you have the capacity to activate it on the new drive (without having to spend $). So is your OS OEM to the machine, or is aftermarket? If it is the ladder you can install it new and use the same activation code, if not then maybe better another option.

 

So the situation is that your laptop came with a hard drive, and you've now bought an aftermarket SSD, and want Windows on that one?

If you have a Windows installation CD, it should work to install it from there, and Windows should ask during the installation which drive/partition you want it on (and give you the option to partition the new drive). If you want to be certain it'll work as intended, you can remove the hard drive while installing Windows, and put it back in once the installation is finished. From there, it's just re-installing programs, moving things around to new locations, etc. It might be easier to start fresh by backing up what you want to keep to an external drive or DVDs and then reformatting the original hard drive, but you wouldn't have to... you'd just be likely to wind up with redundant stuff on your old drive.

If you don't have a Windows installation CD, shame on your manufacturer, they should have included one! But most such manufacturers do offer an option of some sort to burn a DVD to re-install Windows, usually from a recovery partition of some sort. You might also be able to call them and request an installation DVD. My dad was able to get one for free from HP a decade ago after a partitioning went haywire, but you'd probably be lucky to get it for free these days. You can probably ask in the manufacturer-specific forums here if you aren't sure what the best route is.

How much to put on the SSD depends on how big it is. At a minimum, I'd put your web browser on there (if it isn't already by default, i.e. IE), office suite, PDF viewer (Adobe or otherwise), and anything that you have start up automatically that isn't really big. Similarly, anything you use all the time that isn't really big - mp3 players being an example. Google indicates that your SSD is 256 GB, which is fairly sizeable. So you could probably put several large programs that you use often on it as well.

 

I did install the ssd in the main slot and put the hdd in the 2nd spot. It is a 256gb samsung 840 pro ssd. I do have a windows install disc. What im gathering is that i'd be better off going to boot menu formatting the hard drives then doing a fresh install of windows and drivers?

 

I used Acronis and the entire transfer as stated above was painless. Fortunately, the drive was new and already lean so there was no need to cherry pick my programs.

Only on the count of my pocket book. I was barely able to squeeze my editing software onto it and my drive is already full: 229 of the 256.

I wish I had more free space for optimal performance, but at the moment this configuration will have to do. Luckily, I activated PerfectDisk, which freed up a few more Gb via its optimization tool. Unless you operate just using the basics, two fifty six just isn't enough.

 

256gb is plenty, the shrinking part is the most annoying. Samsung Data migration is pretty good since you don't have to boot in to some Linux distro.

 

That is the way I would do it if I were you. Install windows and some programs on the SSD and then create User folders (Documents, Music, Movies, Etc) on the secondary hard drive. Then link the folders to the same folders on the C: drive so the operating system thinks they are still on your primary, but they are stored on the secondary. This will also be compatible with My Libraries in Windows 7 too. This way you can store all your documents on the D: drive and have it still work like it is all on the C: drive. You can access this linkage by left clicking on each User sub folder (like My Documents for example) and going to properties. In properties it will have a tab labeled "location". There you can change the physical location of the folder to another drive, but have it continue to work as if it were still on your primary drive.

When you backup the data from your old hard drive, do it manually by drag and drop, and not with a backup utility. This way you can select what you want and what you don't, and can also free up some space in the process. My primary SSD is also 256 GB, although it is a Crucial M4. At the moment I have used about 40 GB of the SSD with Windows 7, a handful of Programs, and a chunk of AppData. Actually that reminds me of a problem that occured when my wife installed Itunes on our new computer a few months ago. I noticed that there was an extra 20 GB of data hidden on the C; drive. I figured out it was stored Itunes MobileSync Backup folder located in the hidden AppData folder in Users. I guess it backs up your entire library on your computer discretely. I found out that it couldn't be moved, and that Itunes will just keep creating a new backup folder in the same place. I found a way to move the folder to my secondary D: and then create a junction (shortcut) to the folder that Itunes prefers. This way Itunes is happy thinking it is storing the data in my C: drive, and I am happy knowing that it is all really going to my secondary storage drive. But anyways save space on the SSD because Windows, some programs, and your AppData will always consume more space over time. Just keep that in mind before you fill the SSD to the brim with games and random programs.

 

always. ...

 

Since i can't format my hard drive that is running windows (currently my seagate hdd) I was thinking that i could possibly install windows onto my portable 500gb wd hard drive then boot with it and format my other hard drives, remove the portable and then do a fresh install. Does anyone know if this would work? The main problem i had when i installed windows onto my ssd (already had it on my hdd) was that it wasn't picking up the network so i couldnt' dl any drivers. Am i going to have this problem again after i format both the ssd and hdd and try to do a fresh install of windows?

 

Sorry to hijack the thread OP.
I bought a 240gb kingston SSD yesterday and I intend on replacing my current HDD with it, fresh installing windows 7 from the disk alienware gave me, and using the current HDD as an external drive. I already looked through my whole HDD and determined theres only like 5 GB of it I actually need that I can't download later. My only concern is that I'm going to have to get the passwords for all my accounts on the internet that are saved on google chrome. Is there a file I can copy from chrome that will maintain all the settings and passwords and stuff? I could just keep my HDD full of the stuff in it but I just want to start completely clean, there were some issues ive encountered through the years I don't want to have even near my new SSD lol.
I also seem to feel like I am forgetting something important I need to keep... Is there anything that people often forget when they do this kind of thing?

 

The passwords are stored in [Windows Profile] -> Local Settings -> Application Data -> Google -> Chrome ->User Data -> Default -> Web Data. The same goes for a Chrome alternative browser, such as Comodo Dragon or SRware Iron, albeit the directory name would reflect that instead of "Google" under the App Data folder.

 

Thanks. I also found how to download the history from chrome but im not sure if its the same so now I have both.

 

Good move.

The general consensus is that doing a fresh install of Win7 is best.

re the Alienware provided disc that has Win7 on it, if it's a single sided DVD w/ ~3.1GB of data on it, then it is likely to be free of bloat. If it's bigger than roughly 3.1GB, then be aware that you can legally download it from: http://forum.notebookreview.com/win...-digitalriver-windows-7-sp1-13-languages.html

If you download, another thing to do is burn the3.1GB .iso file to a USB stick using Microsoft's free USB tool, w/ instructions at: Using The Windows 7 USB/DVD Download Tool - TechNet Articles - United States (English) - TechNet Wiki

Partition the SSD yourself with free gparted program. See: http://forum.notebookreview.com/sol...sd-setup-bootup-error-help-3.html#post9075884

And also see: http://forum.notebookreview.com/sol...sd-setup-bootup-error-help-5.html#post9088733

 

So what is the problem with a disk with more than 3.1 gb on it? I just checked and it turns out to be 4.94 gb on it. Also, why would I want to partition the SSD? I don't know what would be wrong with just one partition.

 

It means that there's more than just Win7 on the the disc that Alienware has provided you with.

Maybe it's drivers and Alienware software (useful stuff) that you'll want. I'm more cynical
when it comes to laptop makers and would worry that some of it is "bloatware"

Start a thread in the appropriate Alienware forum.

You might also download your Win7 version from http://forum.notebookreview.com/win...-digitalriver-windows-7-sp1-13-languages.html and find out what it totals out to.

What version of Win7 did you pay Alienware for? The 3.1GB that I mentioned is what my own downloaded copy of Win7/64_Pro totals out to be.

Anyway, that's an extra 1.84GB on your Alienware provided disc, which is a lot.

All you really need (and pay for) is the Win7 ID.

If Alienware is like other manufacturers then the Win7 ID is also buried in your laptop's BIOS (it is in my 2 Thinkpad laptops), then you need both the ID string of characters (maybe on the underside of your laptop's battery area?) and a program to retrieve it to a disk or flash stick. And of course a 2nd program to restore it after doing the fresh install of Win7.

Nothing wrong with "just one partition" as that's my own preference.

AFAIK if you let the Windows7 install disc do the partitioning, you end up with two partitions.

Good luck with it.

 

so when i get my m18x (coming soon!) i plan on cloning my current HDD, the m18x with have a 256gb ssd, and a 500gb hdd for storage, will clonezilla/easeUS allow me to clone some files to the new hdd and my important files to the ssd? or will it only work with one drive? (i apologize, still a novice when it comes to this.)

 

Cloning/imaging takes a snapshot of everything and "clones" it. If you want select data, you're better off copying + pasting to the desired drive. As mentioned by OtherSongs above, the unanimity is almost always a fresh install. If you want to go the cloning route though, just make sure the SSD is aligned prior to doing so.

You could also clone the drive and then remove what you don't want, alternatively to copying and pasting selectively.

 

Nicely said!

FWIW using Clonezilla is not easy, not to mention that it has some "gotchas"!

So I hesitate suggesting that anyone use Clonezilla, especially given it's command line UI.

Most people only have NTFS and/or FAT32 partitions, for which booting from an Acronis True Image disc works fine.

 

Ok, so I understand that there is extra stuff on the alienware disk, in fact I remember having to deal with all those programs when I got the computer, maybe I would rather go with the online one. However, there were some useful programs like for example the command center necessary to operate the alienfx lighting. I found the code on the bottom of my computer. So I can only use the online version of windows I bought, home premium? Not ultimate? I checked and the downloadable iso is 3.1gb like you said. I found this link Black Viper’s Windows 7 Super Tweaks | Black Viper | www.blackviper.com which might prove useful for anybody who is installing from a manufacturer cd.

 

Don't make a mountain out of a molehill.

FWIW I now have 4 personal computers setup with Win7, the 1st two desktop PC's that I did via oem disc purchase more than a year ago.

This past 3 months, I've done 2 fresh installs of Win7 on my 2 recent Lenovo Thinkpad laptops, which were both already setup with a bloatware laden Win7 that Lenovo did.

I likely blew away 8+ hours just reading through the long Lenovo thread by Hearst at: http://forum.notebookreview.com/len...e-clean-installing-windows-7-thinkpad-20.html

When in fact all that I needed was the 2 programs that saves and restores extra Win7 ID that Lenovo buries in the mobo chips (BIOS?).

Some laptop makers (like Lenovo) also offer software that scans your laptop and tells you when software you need (from them) for whatever optional hardware is on your laptop. Lenovo calls it ThinkVantage.

IOW 1) take the laptop that I got from Lenovo (already running Win7/64_Pro, which I paid a bit extra for coz purchased separately it costs a lot more), 2) run the 2 programs that save/restore extra Win7 ID that Lenovo buries in the mobo chips (BIOS?) and put both the 2 programs and the saved file onto a USB stick, 3) do the fresh install of Win7, 4) resulting in a laptop that boots but has several drivers that are missing, 5) run the restore program of the extra Win7 ID that Lenovo buries in the mobo chips (BIOS?), 6) download and run the one or two Lenovo ThinkVantage programs that check the laptop and let it do the work of sorting out what I need in the way of drivers and other useful software.

The above is what I did for my 2nd recent laptop.

For the 1st laptop, I went to Lenovo's web site for all of the confusing drivers and optional software and blew away a lot of extra time.

The short moral being: Don't make a mountain out of a molehill.

A few other things...

1. Find out what the extra software on the Alienware install disc is, as it might be useful; either call up Alienware and ask or take the longer route and start a thread on it; wouldn't surprise me if a search in the Alienware forum(s) turns up the answer.

2. With regard to your Q of "So I can only use the online version of windows I bought, home premium? Not ultimate?"

You bought Win7 home, so that's all that your ID will work for.

IMO only corporate people with specific networking needs want "Ultimate" -- meaning that the title is very misleading. Odds are that you also won't miss not having the "Pro" version that I have.

 

Thanks for all the good info. I think I have decided I will just use the alienware disk. I think I'm just too lazy to try and get all the stuff alienware already gave me, and I don't think I'll spend quite 8 hours on trimming down the fat for my uses. If it doesn't work out, I can always just do the clean basic windows 7 install you recommended. I'll probably upgrade to windows 8 at some point anyway, so why make a mountain out of a mole hill haha. :thumbsup:

 

If there's no bloatware, then that's the way to go.

Keep in mind that once you get bloatware on the computer, it never really goes away no matter what you do. It's the key reason why people do fresh installs of Windows.

And with regard to that "Black Viper" ref, my own approach is to pay money for computer optimization, so long as it isn't much money.

I used to use Avanquest's System Suite of utilities, but now their software stops working after a year goes by; so all that Avanquest has accomplished is to finally lose me as a customer. I can put up with a lot, but not nonsense like that.

Over the years I've seen a lot of companies do stupid stuff like what Avanquest is currently doing, and all of them has gone out of business.

FWIW I've gone back to Norton Utilities; currently at ver. 16, priced slightly under $20 on Amazon for 3 pc's, so ~$6/pc.

After using it (and liking it, even though it is very easy to mis-use it and really screw up your pc), I bought the slightly older version 15 for ~$12 (again an Amazon vendor), but the vendor sent version 16. Likely on purpose, but I've no idea why. So I've got version 16 on 5 of my home pc's (w/ 1 license unused) $30/5 still = ~$6/pc.

Hopefully it won't stop working after a year.

 

I have some norton I think it came with my internet service years ago not sure what version it is, its called norton security suite. Idk I just let it to its thing, never gotten a virus since ive had it, so I guess it does its job.

 

Lol don't be so sure. Not to sound pessimistic of course, and everybody has their AV program of preference. I'm not denouncing Norton exclusively either, it's just that it's not so difficult for virus developers to bypass the heuristics in many popular anti-virus programs. Better anti-virus practice would involve something like Deep Freeze, IMO.

 

I installed the SSD. What general kind of stuff should I keep on the SSD? I would assume internet stuff, and definitely games. Currently I have the old HDD attached via a USB to micro usb cable to its enclosure, is that good or should I get an E sata cable? I assume that would be faster. I looked up that deep freeze... seems like a bit of an overkill lol.

edit: And I downloaded a program called Active KillDisk to clear the old HDD for use as an external... Don't need all that crap on it anymore haha.

 

SSD should basically and exclusively contain programs and your OS. Program data can be stored on it as well, but personal/user data will go on your HDD. eSATA may get you better transfer rates than USB 2.0 but not immensely, as it's still a platter drive after all.

Deep Freeze can certainly seem that way, haha. My school used it and it was a great tool, I thought, but for end users I suppose it's a bit much.

Active KillDisk is a fine utility. If you were wiping it, there are quite a few programs out there that all do a comparable job.

 

This; and that's how I have mine. Still, despite options to the contrary, the 256GB drive filled up pretty fast (Maybe I should have specified workstation rather than web browser?), so I had to relocate some of my secondary programs like Cyberlinks to my mSATA.

Hopefully, I will be able to afford a larger main drive soon and can then use my main SSD as intended with breathing room, and my mSATA totally as an intended scratch disc.

 

Back to my last question. Can i install windows onto an external 500gb hdd, then format both my internal hdd and ssd, unhook the external, then do a fresh install of windows onto my ssd? Like i said the problem i ran into while installing windows onto my ssd when i still had windows on the internal hdd was that when i booted windows from the ssd i didn't have any network access (internet) so i couldn't get the drivers needed for my stuff. Will i have this problem if i install the alienware windows cd with both harddrives already formatted?

 

I just installed from the alienware disk for some reason it did not give me all the alienware stuff, nor did it give me a single driver. Just the basic windows 7. I also had no internet driver, so I had to use another computer to download it, bring it over on a USB, and install it. Even my ethernet needed a driver. You'd think windows 7 would come with a standard ethernet driver....
And as far as I know, you can do what you said from an external, but I think it will be pretty slow im not sure.