Guide to Cooling Down Your Notebook Computer

byCharles Jefferies

Does your notebook run hot or overheat? If it does, you are not alone. This guide is designed to help you reduce the temperature of your notebook considerably, all for little or no money and a few tweaks.

Disclaimer: I take no responsibility for any damages caused if you use this guide. Be careful and all will be fine, but do proceed at your own risk!

Step 1: Fan Cleaning

Cost: $0-$7

Time: 10 to 15 Minutes

Difficulty: Easy

Applies to: Everyone

Maintaining your notebook is important. The occasional wipe down is good, but that doesn't take care of the inside. Dust accumulates inside the notebook's cooling system after a while. It prevents air from flowing freely and traps heat.

In order to get the dust out, you need a few supplies. The best way to get the heat out is with some canned compressed air, but that will cost you about $5 - $7 per can, depending on the store. It is well worth the money in my opinion. It can also be used to blow out the keyboard and other places in and on your notebook, such as ports. A cheaper but less effective way of getting dust out is by using a cotton swab and a handheld vacuum cleaner. I will show you how to do both.

Before you start, turn off the notebook completely, unplug it from the wall, and take out the battery. Push down the power button a few times to drain any electricity running around.

You must open up your notebook to access the fan(s). Turn the notebook upside down, and look for the compartment(s) where the fan(s) are. I suggest placing a towel under your notebook so the top doesn't get scratched. Unscrew all the screws holding down the compartment and carefully remove it. Place it and the screws in a safe place where they won't roll away.

CPU Fan vent (view large image)

With the internals of your notebook exposed, don't touch any of them -- oil from your hands is not good to get on the components, and you want to minimize the risk of damaging anything.

The internal components exposed. (view large image)

Using canned air:

Open the package, read the directions on how to use the canned air -- it is very straightforward -- point and shoot. Before you start blasting the air into your notebook, squirt it a couple of times to get any moisture out of the nozzle. Once nothing but air comes out of the can, then you are ready to start. Hold the nozzle about 1-2 inches away from the fans and other dust-coated components and use quick bursts to blow any crud off. Be sure to blow out the fan and heat vents too, not just the physical fan. That's all you need to do. Some packages of canned air come with a plastic tube which you can insert into the nozzle. It helps concentrate the airflow. I recommend using this if your package has it -- you can get hard to reach places easier and it is more effective.

Using cotton swabs:

Take the cotton swabs and brush off all the fan blades and anything else that has dust on it. Once the swab is coated in dust, flick it with your fingers to clear the dust off of it. Don't use the same swab the whole time, get a new one after a couple of uses.

When you are finished, get the handheld vacuum cleaner and suck up all the dust. Don't touch the notebook with the vacuum. Use your lung power to blow out the dust and help the vacuum cleaner as well. Repeat the steps above if there is still dust you missed in there. Get out as much as you can.

Number Two: Cooling Pad

Cost: $15-$30

Time: 1-2 minutes

Difficulty: Easy

Applies to: Everyone

A cooling pad is the best possible investment you can make for cooling down your computer. They increase the airflow under the computer, and greatly help the cooling system.

There are many different coolers on the market. I will be reviewing two here:

• Targus Chillmat ($30, cheaper online)
  
  
• Spire Pacific Breeze ($15, Newegg.com)

Testing:

I tested each cooler with my notebook's CPU undervolted and no Arctic Silver coolant applied (more on that later). The load temperature was measured while running 3DMark05. The room temperature was about 66 F during these tests.

To see how well each cooler worked, I measured my standard temperatures while the notebook sat on a marble countertop. Standard temperatures:

Idle: 46 Celsius CPU, 49 Celsius HDD

Under Load: 57 Celsius CPU, 52 Celsius HDD

Targus Chillmat

This is a simple, no-frills cooler with a basic design and quiet operation. It is lightweight, easy to transport, and draws its power from a USB port. I purchased my Chillmat from Best Buy for $29.99 -- it can be had for cheaper online, just shop around.

(view large image)

Constructed entirely of plastic, it has two fairly large fans in the center and rubber knob-things on the top to suspend your notebook off the surface. The overall build is quite durable and sturdy -- it won't flex if you try to bend it. It serves as a great platform to put a notebook on in your lap.

Testing:

Idle: 42 C CPU, 45 C HDD

Under Load: 58 C CPU, 49 C HDD

The Targus Chillmat did a pretty good job of cooling down my notebook. With the notebook in an idle state, the hard drive dropped a full four degrees. The hard drive is located at the front of my notebook, so it is hard to cool down. The idle state CPU saw a drop in temperature as well. Normally at 46 C at idle, I saw a 4 C drop to 42 C using the Chillmat. The area around the vicinity of the CPU stayed noticeably cooler.

(view large image)

One aspect of the Chillmat that I thought could be improved is the efficiency. The fans on the Chillmat are designed to draw air from the underside of the notebook and thrust it out the back. It would be better if the designers had focused on drawing heat from the back of the notebook and helping carry it away. It seems to me, just a higher velocity airflow across the bottom surface of the notebook would be more beneficial than a slow draw downward. The notebook gets cooler because of the air pushed upward by the fans, not the air pulled in.

I'd recommend the Targus Chillmat to those wanting a simple, quiet cooling solution that is easy to transport. It works well, especially for those who like to put their notebook on their lap.

Pros: Quiet, durable, and easy to transport. USB powered. Simple design.

Cons: Cooling could be more efficient.

Spire Pacific Breeze

The Spire Pacific Breeze cooler is a rectangular, blocky unit with two case fans (essentially) embedded in either end, which take in air from above and thrust it out the bottom. The case fans have bright blue LEDs embedded in them -- you like them or you don't. It's not very portable, but it is durable. Power is provided by a USB port.

(view large image)

The Pacific Breeze did an excellent job of keeping my notebook cool, but with some compromises. Take a look at the tests first:

Testing:

Idle: 37 C CPU, 42 C HDD

Load: 56 C CPU, 44 C HDD

Air comes out of the Pacific Breeze very fast, and in great volume. This could even qualify as a desk fan. The combination of a lot of air moving quickly across the bottom of my notebook does wonders for heat reduction. My CPU temperature is exceptionally low, and the hard drive is well below the standard temp. The functionality of the cooler is great, but the practicality isn't. It's loud -- very loud. There are two settings for the fan speed, low and high. On low, the noise is very audible, and can be disruptive depending on the environment you're in. It basically sounds like a low-powered hair dryer. Forget about going to sleep with this in your room. On high, the sound increases considerably, I'd estimate by about one-third. Think of this as a hair dryer on medium. The sound is also more high-pitched...the low speed sounds like a growl.

(view large image)

My second point can be a compromise, depending on what kind of person you are. If you like LED lights and like to have a cool-looking setup, they're great. If you don't care about looks, well, the lights can be annoying. They cast a faded, cool blue light all around the area of your notebook. Decide for yourself whether you like them or not.

Pros: Does an exceptional cooling job. Cheap and simple. USB powered.

Cons: Very loud. Blue LEDs can be annoying.

Number Three: Undervolting

Cost: $0

Time: 10-15 min (install, set voltage), 1.5-2.5 hours to test

Difficulty: Moderate-Hard

Applies to: Technical/More Advanced users

This is not a step everyone can use -- my guide only applies to an Intel Pentium M (Sonoma) processor.

Undervolting is a no-cost way of cutting down heat and power consumption in your notebook by reducing the amount of CPU voltage. It also increases battery life.

You will need a program to undervolt -- I will be using Notebook Hardware Control (NHC) for my Intel Pentium M 750 (1.86GHz) CPU.

Once installed, run NHC and go to the CPU Voltage tab. Here you will see the multipliers on the left, and the voltage for that multiplier on the right. What needs to be changed is the voltage. Make sure all your other running programs are closed, and that you won't need to use the notebook for a couple hours -- the new voltages you set must be tested for stability.

Most people can take down the voltage by .200V; my notebook has been stable for months. I don't guarantee that yours will be able to do the same, all are different.

Set each of the multipliers down by .200V. After you set each multiplier, hit "Set" to do a short stability test. You'll need to restart your computer if for some reason it freezes up. Each short test takes thirty seconds. Once you have set all the multipliers, I recommend doing the full stability test.

(view large image)

Depending on how high or low-clocked your Pentium M is, it can take between three and four hours to do a full test. If done correctly and successfully, undervolting can take off several degrees from your CPU, and add a noticeable amount of battery life. My Pentium M 1.86GHz, without undervolting and not on a cooling pad, normally runs at 52 C. When undervolted, I lost six degrees, and am now running at 46 C. Not only Pentium Ms can be undervolted; look into whether or not your processor can.

Step Four: Arctic Silver 5

Cost: $7-$30

Time: 20-40 minutes to apply

Difficulty: Hard

Applies to: Advanced users

Arctic Silver 5 (AS5) is a thermal compound made of 99.9% pure silver. It can take off up to ten degrees from your CPU, which is substantial. Keep in mind that this isn't the easiest option, but can yield excellent results if done right.

Before you buy AS5, make sure you can get direct access to your CPU. If you cannot, then this step is not possible.

(view large image)

A view of my notebook's CPU with the heatsink removed.

Turn off your notebook, unplug it, and remove the battery and bottom compartments to access the CPU. You may need to remove the heatsink or fan assemblies above the CPU. The rest of the procedure can be found on Arctic Silver's website in thorough detail, more than I could type up for you here. Link to procedure.

After allowing the Arctic Silver 5 thermal compound to set for the recommended 200 hours, I have seen a 3 C drop in temperature -- it gets better over time. Up to seven degrees can be taken off.

I also noticed a difference in the amount of heat put off at full throttle. My notebook's fans do not come on nearly as often as they used to because the peak temperature is lower by 2 C.

Conclusion

After cleaning out the fans, getting a cooling pad, undervolting the processor and applying Arctic Silver 5 thermal compound, the results have been more than impressive for my notebook. Originally, I had a 46 C CPU temperature at idle, and the hard drive 49 C. After doing all of the above, my temperatures are down to 36 C CPU, and 42 C HDD. That's a 26.5% drop in the CPU, and a 14.3% loss in hard drive temperature. Hopefully, you will be able to achieve some of the same results I did. The time and effort are well worth it if you have a hot notebook, or even a modestly warm one. At most, you're looking at spending around $50 if you opt for the more expensive Targus ChillMat; I spent a total of $31 for canned air, a Pacific Breeze cooler, and a small tube of thermal compound.

Anyone up for a weekend project?

 

Charles, thank you for this guide. It is nice to see a variety of options listed - and tested! - in one article.

I would like to offer two observations. First, the CPU temperature under load increased by 1 degree with the Targus Chillmat. One could argue that this does not count as a "pretty good job" of cooling one's notebook because the hottest component in the notebook, the CPU, gets hotter with the Chillmat than without.

Second, you write that the recommended set time for the Arctic Silver 5 thermal compound is 200 hours. Does this mean you cannot use the notebook for more than a week after you apply the compound?

 

Regarding using compressed air to clear out dust.

Please be aware that you can destroy the tiny brushless motors used by your notebooks fan by blowing canned air on them. If the fan is accessable, it would be a wise caution to 1) make sure your laptop is powered off, 2) use a straw or some other non conductive/sturdy device to hold the fan in place, and 3) then use the compressed air.

 

Verygood guide Chazman (charles)!!! this should be a sticky in the dummy section!!!

i'll try some of the suggestions you posted....i hope it keeps my NB temperature low

 

Excellent guide Chaz! Very comprehensive and informative! Thank you.

 

All the 'under load' temperatures are going to be near the same - the cooling pad doesn't do a ton for the CPU under load. Why it was one degree higher there, I'm not exactly sure but it isn't worth worrying about.

I've never heard this before, nor heard of any problems being caused because of it. I did say to make sure the laptop was powered off btw.

 

You can use it, it's just that for the compound to completely set, it takes 200 hours.

 

Very nice guide Chaz, I'm sure it'll help a lot of people.

I agree that a copy of this could be put in the dummy forum as a sticky and do very well.

 

Nice guide... I have some free time, and might try to make my own cooling pad I recently opened up my desktop and noticed a ton of dust in the heatsink. I took an old toothbrush (didn't have canned air) and got all the dust out of the heatsink. My CPU now runs 4*C cooler. Another good way to cool off your lappy is to turn on the AC on full blast.

 

Excellent guide. I'll try some of this stuff on my perpetually hot Dell XPS M140.

 

Great guide Chaz. I blew out some dust just this last weekend. I should try to undervolt.
Tim

 

There is a slight flaw with undervolting however. Since you are keeping the main chip cooler with less voltage on the clock, the fans won't run as often because chip temperatures never reach the fan turn on temp (unless you are able to change that as well, such as in Dells).

Not letting the fan run actually causes heat build up elsewhere on your laptop where there are no temperature sensors because the heat has to go somewhere after being emitted from the chip. For my HP laptop, this location turns out to be the areas under the keyboard. I noticed that it got much hotter than usual after prolonged use and undervolting.

Just something you guys might want to know.

 

Lol, Where were you last summer Chaz? =) I could of used this guide then. But glad its here now.

Target rocks! I got a two pack of compressed air cans (Fellows brand. Does it matter?) for $7. I also bought the Chillmat there a little while back. (Maybe it was a different one, but it looks the same... $25 on sale) I took it back. I just didn't see any difference in heat. Maybe I'll try another cooler later. I probably should be more motivated to get a another cooler for my notebook, but it's so much cooler than my old one I don't notice the heat so much, even with my notebook in my lap. Yet I know I'm hurting the air flow.

 

I got a Vantec Lapcool3 laptop cooler for my ASUS Z70V last year. It was about $25CDN I think. It cooled my hard drive 5 degrees or so, but did pretty much nothing for the CPU (maybe 1 degree, sometimes 0). The problem is that the fans (like the silver laptop cooler mentioned in this guide) are located in the middle; whereas the CPU on the Z70V is in the top right corner. So that one may help your HD but probably won't help your CPU (which is likely what you want to cool the most).

 

Good guide!

Recently I found out that there is a better thermal paste than Arctic Silver 5!
It is Coollaboratory LiquidPro based on liquid Indium and Gallium. It is suitable for cooper heatsinks only.

 

Interesting, I hadn't heard that before. I don't have any of those issues with my notebook; undervolting works best in conjunction with a cooling pad.

My notebook has copper heatsinks all around, I'll have to look into it when it's time to replace the application I have on there now.

That is a great deal, I believe I got ripped off at Best Buy ($7/can) The brand doesn't matter as far as I know.

 

They have four packs there two. Can't remember how much they cost though. =P

 

Great guide, Chaz!

How much battery life is lost using a cooling pad?

 

Not sure if this has been addressed, but with some compressed air cans holding them upside down is hazardous. To test hold the can upside down and spray, you should get a very cold liquid compound to drip out of the nozzle. More than likely this is conductive, so it may ruin the laptop if you drip it in there.

Just be sure to use the can right side up and you should be fine.

 

I do know that when you first use it, you need to get rid of the water by spraying it all out as I had posted in the guide. I never needed to turn it upside down, but that is worth considering. Thanks for commenting.

 

Good point - depends on the pad you use. The Targus ChillMat will not take as much battery life as the Spire, but I'd guess, out of the two and a half hours I get with my notebook, around 15-20 min.

 

Nice Guide!!
I have a question about your guide. How did you measure the CPU & HDD temperatures? I want to try it

 

I used Notebook Hardware Control (NHC):
http://www.pbus-167.com/chc.htm

 

Hey Chaz - great guide. It will help to many people. I like the time and difficulty numbers. Excellent. This article will be advertised by me when someone asks.

Cheers,

Ivan

 

Remember not to hibernate with it plugged in... =/

 

Great guide Chaz! Very informative! I'm thinking of purchasing a Spire Pacific Breeze

 

I'd like to add 3 more options :

1. turn the thing off .
2. use it only in Antartica .
3. spray it with funky colors and add blue leds in the vents .

 

Actually, don't you HAVE to use it? I thought the 200 hour time was use-time.

 

Great to see you, Slappy.

Yes, as per the AS5 website, you are supposed to use it on and off for the entire 200 hour period.

Chaz

 

Question: if one were to apply Arctic Silver -- or Coollaboratory LiquidPro -- and the laptop would subsequently need to be serviced under the warranty, wouldn't the fact that one had opened the laptop up and applied it void the warranty?

 

It depends on the terms of your warranty; some brands allow you to do certain repairs yourself.

Removing a CPU heatsink and replacing the thermal compound does require a bit of technical skill, so I think doing this will most likely void your warranty. Just opening up the laptop does not void the warranty for some brands. It would be best to consult other users or your manufacturer.

 

I'm asking for some tech advice:

I have a Thinkpad T42p. The laptop is less than 3 months old but I decided to replace the stock thermal compound for Arctic Silver 5.

I removed the OEM thermal grease using ArctiClean 1 & 2 from the CPU & GPU. The fan of my laptop have only one heatsink, it has an extension that sits also above the GPU Chip (ATi FireGL T2 with 128MB)

My problem is that after applying AS5 on both CPU & GPU, the temps not seems to reduce impressively higher.

The GPU temp is 55C when doing normal stuff (not when gaming). The CPU is 50C with a voltage of 1.196V @ 1.8GHz

I remember that before applying AS5 the GPU temp was something like 3C more cool.

The question here is that if I did right removing the black goop in the heatsink area that sits above the GPU Core, including a pink film.
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a80/nirvana0001/DSC_0051.jpg

When assembled I have to apply pressure on top of the heatsink area to achieve contact between the GPU & heatsink.

Is there something I could put between the heatsink and the GPU to be able to lower some degrees of??

 

Hi t30power,

I recently had the same issue with my comp - but I needed to apply the CPU thermal paste because old was gone in a mysterious way. I also noticed that my GPU heatsink has purple pads instead of the usual paste and in fact it is built so I cannot apply paste - heatsink never reaches the GPU core! It needs to be something thicker (like original pads). Although I find it strange, it seems that you need to find that kind of pads somewhere. I was lucky and saved all of it while playing with thermal paste, so I could put them back and everything is fine.

The other thing could be that your graphic memory chips are a bit taller than gpu core (the case with my comp) and that is why they put those pads instead of the paste, to compensate those small differences. That way heatsink can be flat and still reach all components below.

AS5 can be worse than original paste if you apply too much. It needs to be very thin.

I wish you luck,

Ivan

 

Ivan is right, make sure the application of AS5 is as thin as possible, that's the key. There should be no air bubbles whatsoever, that will cause heat to build up. Thermal compound put on incorrectly can result in much, much higher temperatures.

I suggest using a credit card or something like it to apply the paste. Helps to keep the application even.

 

The pink film is called gap-pad. Gap-pads are sold in different thikness (0.5mm, 1mm, etc) and sizes, and they may have various heat conductances of 1-2W/mK which are still several times lower than that of AS5 when properly applied).

 

Gap-pads. Thanks Ivar, I was always having problem with naming this thing.

Cheers,

Ivan

 

I hope that knowing the name may help someone to google for those gap-pads if one is needed. Btw, the price for an identical gap pad may vary from 50 cents to 20 euro (here in Germany), so let them not fool you.

 

There's something usefull that could be added to the guide.

NHC as of now allows to control your fans manually, even tough the process is not straight forward yet. Turning up your fans a notch all the time can lower temps significantly.

 

I have found that just having a fan blowing across the back of my laptop brings the temp down a good bit I.e from definitely not going on my lap to very usable on my lap. yea its not the best idea if you get cooled easily but it really works.

 

Wow no wonder my computer was getting so hot; my fan/vent was clogged with dust. My load temperature dropped from 70 to 50 after I cleared it out, not to mention the noise is much less now (my fan was going to full blast right after it loaded windows...)!

 

Great piece there at the start. I've had some trouble finding informative articles on how to cool down laptops.

However, after reading this, i'm still a little worried. My Acer travelmate 8104's CPU goes up to over 100C when its running at full processing speed. I found a site that said that the average running temp for this processor (Pentium M) is 100C, however, i'm still a bit worried.

Unfortunately, i don't have it here now to clean the fans etc, and will look into some other methods. This article has definately made me think twice about a cooling mat though - they seem rather ineffective.

So, if anyone has had any revolutionary ideas since this was written on how to turn my hotbox into a sub-zero coolbox then please let me know.

 

100 +/-10C is the upper limit for Pentium M.
That is strange - 100C for PM is actually making your CPU throttling down and perhaps restart - not to mention 100C on your motherboard and other stuff inside. So could it be a wrong reading? Does your comp slowdown when it hits 100?

I had an issue with the thermal paste dissappearing between the CPU and heatsink - It could easily reach 95. So I would recommend openning your notebook and check it - apply Artic Silver 5 and it must be around 75 at most. Of course, I don't know your particular notebook - and maybe it is really a bit hotter than others, but I would definitely check the fan, heatsink (dust) and thermal paste.

Ivan

 

It could very well be that NHC is reading your temperature wrong - 100*C is way too hot for a Pentium M.

If not, then listen to what Ivan said about the thermal paste - getting some AS5 for your machine may work wonders.

They are quite effective *if you get the right one*. The Spire Pacific Breeze I reviewed in here is one of the cheapest coolers you can get, and works the best.

 

The important thing to find out is if you're reading the temperature from the diode in your CPU socket or on the CPU itself. If it's on the socket, then the reading will be inaccurate.

 

Well I got myself some Arctic Silver 5 today. The bad news is that their website is down so I can't look at their guide. I guess I will wait for Chaz's help. lol
Tim

 

Zalman ZM-NC1000 is pretty effective.
Just be sure that your cooling mat is blowing cool air on laptop's bottom not sucking air from there as most of notebook fans is sucking air from under the notebook and blowing it off from side or back.

Zalman
Test of Zalman
I have one and it really works.

 

wow awesome, I've been reading up on this and apparently the liquidpro is much better than AS5.

The only cons are that it takes a longer time to apply because it is literally "liquid metal" but it doesn't stick to anything but metal so you can use a q-tip or even a paintbrush to apply it. Moreover, it is harder to clean than AS5 so if you wanted to reseat your heatsink or replace your cpu that'd be a pain. Lastly, it cannot be used on aluminum heatsinks. It can be used on copper and silver heatsinks.

Overall, however, the LiquidPro is extremely interesting as it is shown to be far better than AS5. I'm considering applying this stuff onto my W3J when I start the process. But just to clarify before I put down the money, most heatsinks in laptops are made of copper right? and the CPU cover is made of copper coated with silver?

And I must also say, Chaz thanks for the excellent guide it is nice for new laptop-users to have everything in one place instead of looking around everywhere!

 

Can anyone tell me a good AS5 guide for Core 2 Duo notebooks? (I think it's different from Pentium M)

Is Arctic Silver's AS5 guide good enough? Is it suitable for notebooks as well?

I'm going to apply it in the Asus S96J (Core 2 Duo) and I need a good guide.

 

Yeah I used the AS5 guide and it was pretty good. If you have any questions while you do it you can IM me since I have done this recently and still remember some stuff that I did.
Tim

 

What other notebook coolers are good? Anyone done a test on more than 2?

mike