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    Heat pipe isn't working on core 2 duo mobile?

    Discussion in 'Hardware Components and Aftermarket Upgrades' started by chris89, Mar 1, 2012.

  1. chris89

    chris89 Notebook Consultant

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    I noticed my gateway m-6827 is running hot with a core 2 duo t5750. When at full load it throttles back to 1.6Ghz until it cools then heats back up to 83*C at 2Ghz then it throttles back to 1.6Ghz. It does this continuously. I have re pasted several times and the heat simply isn't transferring to the heatsink. The heat pipe gets hot at the core and 1" down the heat pipe it goes cold. I don't get why it's running so hot? I mean do heat pipes stop working? I might order a new cpu heatsink and hopefully it will work better.

    I'm upgrading to the T8300 Core 2 Duo Penryn core and it should run cooler. I just don't want it to throttle back all the time... What should I do? Do you know where I can find a brand new cpu heatsink for my Gateway M-6827?

    Thanks
     
  2. miro_gt

    miro_gt Notebook Deity

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    heat pipes usually dont fail. If you get some physical damage then it mayl leak out and become useless.

    check if your CPU throttles because of another component that may get too hot and thus send the ProcHot signal to the CPU to slow down. That happened to the Dell D630 that we have here, lol.

    nonetheless ensure that you have enough thermal paste covering all the chip area, and that the heat sink holds tight to the chip.
     
  3. chris89

    chris89 Notebook Consultant

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    Yeah it's tight and if I unplug the fan after 10 minutes the heat will transfer to the heatsink but isn't very hot. All the heat is right at the part of the heatsink that connects to the core. There's plenty of paste and it's tightly secured. It idles at 65*C and 30 seconds of 2Ghz load will hit 85*C and throttle back to damn near 1Ghz. I F*ing hate this. Do I need a new heatsink with a fresh heatpipe? The heatpipe is copper and the heatsink is aluminum. This thing runs so damn hot and the cpu is trying its best but it's still way too hot. The heat isn't transferring to the heatsink. It's just chilling at the core and not transferring to the heatsink hardly at all. The heatsink is faulty. I have used the same methods and thermal paste of tons of other equipment with no issues. It's just this POS gateway crap is complete crap when it's comes to engineering. The air coming out of the exhaust is cold. I've never had issues with lapping but i did a lap on the core and heatsink. didn't help at all. The laptop runs fine, it just throttles back continuously because of the stupid piece of heatsink.
     
  4. naton

    naton Notebook Virtuoso

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    I think that the following CPUs are bad CPUs: T5450, T5550, T5750, and T5800
    While the T junction is 100c or 105c for most socket P CPUs, the above have a T junction of 85c. I believe that these are possibly T6000, T8000 or P8000 series CPUs that failed to pass Intel quality test.

    I used to have a T5450 and I have a T5550. I think they failed to pass the quality test because when usually the difference in temperature between both core is about 1 to 2c, with these CPUs the difference in temperature is up to 6c. I had the T5450 installed on an HP Pavilion dv2899 laptop and now I have a T5550 on an Compaq laptop. In both cases the temperatures under stress with the factory thermal paste were near the 85c mark. Even after replacing the paste with Arctic cooling MX-3 the temperature dropped to only around 77-78c.

    The only method to keep the temperatures under control with these CPUs is to undervolt them with RMclock or a similar software. In my case this helped drop the temperature to a maximum between 60 and 65c. I was able to use the lowest available Vcore for all multipliers.

    If you didn't bend or damage the heatsink then you don't need to replace it. Intel should have used a T junction of 100 or simply lowered the clock of these CPUs to ensure that they stay way below the 85c threshold.
     
  5. Prema

    Prema Your Freedom, Your Choice

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    For the liquid in heatpipes to vaporize at lower degrees they are under pressure. Sometimes they come with too less or even a leak right out of the factory.
    To see if the heatpipe transfers the heat properly you can put the cpu end in hot water (let it first boil and cool down a bit then only put the cpu end in) and hold the other end at the fan grills. It should reach a temperature that is to hot to touch very fast. If you can still touch it after a few seconds its broken.
     
  6. chris89

    chris89 Notebook Consultant

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    Thanks guy's! Yeah the Heatsink is bad. I'll order a new one. Well used. I hope used is sufficient? Ebay for $20 shipped... Anyway I get my T8300 today hopefully! I'm hella excited! I hope the T8300 will at least run with the heat sink for the moment until I get a new heatsink.
     
  7. jimbob83

    jimbob83 Notebook Evangelist

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    Used is fine as long as the liquid in the heatpipe hasn't leaked out and the heatsink itself isn't warped or otherwise damaged.
     
  8. chris89

    chris89 Notebook Consultant

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    What do you mean warped? like the part to contacts the cpu? My heatpipe looks dark brown and not the typical lighter copper color. Heat doesn't transfer past the dark portion of the pipe even know it's not pinched. Heat transfers but only when the fan is off then it'll transfer. It's hard to explain how inefficient this heatsink is. I suppose I will pick up a used heatsink and see how it works. Otherwise I guess I'd have to shell out $35-40 for a new looking one. There's this heatsink that's 100% copper that goes on other m-series laptop's from gateway that would work. However the heatsink is glued to the fan part. How would I go about removing the heatsink from the fan housing? Put it in a 350* F over for 30 minutes to melt the glue?

    thanks

    I uploaded pics of the heatsink. The one with the aluminum heatsink/ copper pipe is for my m-6827. The Other pic is for m-6824 with it's full copper pipe to full copper heatsink fins. I think it's much more thermally conductive than the stock m-6827 aluminum fins to copper pipe. Wouldn't you say? So I need to unglue the heatsink from the metal fan housing. Being an idiot I broke an m-6824 trying to pry off the heatsink from the glue. I got it for $5. I wish I wouldn't have broken it. It was pissing me off that the god damn thing was glued on so I just broke it. Any thoughts?
     

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  9. jimbob83

    jimbob83 Notebook Evangelist

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    Yes, the part that contacts the CPU has to sit flat on the die.
     
  10. K-TRON

    K-TRON Hi, I'm Jimmy Diesel ^_^

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    There is no "heat pipe" on that heatsink. That is simply an annealed piece of solid copper.

    That heatsink is assembled with a brazing process involving silver solder. You will not be able to separate the components in an oven. You would need an acetylene torch to melt the solder (900F-1200F) - which I do not advise.

    What affects the performance of any heatsinks is:
    1) how flat the heatsink lays atop the processor die
    2) what interface material is used between the processor dies and the heatsink (thermal pad, copper shim, thermal compound, etc)
    3) ventilation of the designed laptop
    4) the thermal potential of the fan cooling it

    Now that you have your computer apart. Clean both the heatsink and the cpu die with rubbing alcohol and q-tips. When clean grab a charcoal pencil and draw on your cpu die. Cover it in graphite and then proceed to install your heatsink. Tighten it up good, and then remove it. Did any charcoal come in contact with the heatsink? If no, then the gap between the cpu and the heatsink is too high for the processor to effectively transfer heat into. That could be the cause of 1) the locking clips on the heatsink screws are machined too far in, preventing the heatsink from coming a few thousandths of an inch closer to the die, or 2) the nominal thickness of the cpu die you have is thinner than average - unlikely
    If only a little charcoal has smudged onto the heatsink, not enough to cover the entire processor die, your heatsink is warped, and needs replacing
    If the entire die is present on the charcoal transfer to the heatsink, then your problem is related to expired or improperly installed thermal paste, or a fan which is only engaging at very high temperatures.
    Clean off all charcoal/graphite/crayon or whatever you used with rubbing alcohol before powering up the computer.

    I would investigate the fan, is it working at all?
    I have fixed a number of laptops which had fan controller failures. Often, cheap voltage regulators are used on motherboards which fail from high temperatures which either prevent the processor/graphics card fan from coming on in any resistance mode, namely anything but when full power is needed, or locks the fan at full speed all of the time. Both are easy to fix if you know what to look for.

    Chris
     
  11. chris89

    chris89 Notebook Consultant

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    Ok so I got the T8300 and it's light years better than the T5750. Anyway the CPU says it'll roll up to 85*C however the cores only hit 75*C tops. So why is there at 10-15*C difference between the CPU temp and the Core temp? It wasn't like this on the T5750. Otherwise it runs stable at full load for as long as I tested it. I'm thinking of getting a T9500 after playing with this T8300. I have a best offer on one at $90 shipped so I hope I get it. Even with the X3100 the additional clock makes a huge difference while gaming on the hl2 source "Day of defeat source" engine. I can run it at 1280x800 with all low details with minimum framerate of propbably 20 fps and normally it's 30fps. I think the T9500's 2600Mhz clock would help a lot.

    I'm running Arctic Silver Ceramique 2 and it works really great honestly. I see only a couple Celsius difference from IC Diamond 24. The heat sink isn't warped and the core sits flat on the copper heatsink base. The T8300 runs way cooler than the T5750 did. It also uses less voltage. Minimum clock at 798Mhz and min voltage at 0.950V. It idles at 55*C on the CPU temp and core temps are at 42*C. Compared to 65*C idle on the T5750 and load temps of 85*C. I'm not sure if I need a new heatsink. I mean it's not efficiently removing the heat but there's not much to remove now so it runs stable. I may still order the new heatsink. I'm just waiting on my finances to situate a little more.

    later

    I'll take some pics of that glue holding the heatsink. It looks like some durable stuff. Didn't quite look like solder though. Looked like some hella high quality glue. Just from looking at it I think it may melt with some oven heat. Not 100% sure on that one though. It may need 30 minutes at 500*F.
     
  12. naton

    naton Notebook Virtuoso

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    The T9300 is also a good choice and a better value for money than the T9500.

    The T9300 is clocked at 2.5GHz.
     
  13. chris89

    chris89 Notebook Consultant

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    Yeah I just don't know if 100mhz is gonna make a noticeable difference. I am aware of the 6mb cache on the t9300/9500. I may just not worry about it. Since ideally I'm trying to get better gaming performance with the x3100.

    I may pass on the upgrade since I also just ordered an i7 2720qm for my Asus k53sv. Hopefully ill see some gains over the 2630qm... I really wanted the 2760qm but its so damn expensive. The 2720qm out performs the 2670qm right? Can u guys tell me anything about the nanometer process differences from the 2630qm and the 2720qm?

    Thanks
     
  14. lidowxx

    lidowxx Notebook Deity

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    The difference between 2630qm and 2720qm is not impressive at all, a lot smaller than many people would probably believe, according to various benchmarks, 2720qm is about 3%-9% faster, mostly it's around 5%. Heck, even the fastest 2960xm is NOT much faster than a 2630qm, Read here: Review Intel Sandy Bridge (Core i7) Update - Notebookcheck.net Reviews

    For that kind of miniscule gain, it's VERY HARD to perceive even in CPU intensive usage scenario.
     
  15. chris89

    chris89 Notebook Consultant

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    So i was looking at all the cpu's for the HM65 chipset. I didn't know the damn 2620qm and 2640qm were so unreal on the clocks. 2.7Ghz and 2.8Ghz! I wish I would've gone for huge clocks over cache. I'm sure the 2620qm and 2640qm would kill the 2720qm right? I paid $190 shipped for the 2720qm. These core i7's are so damn expensive!

    Oh yeah and I can't even find those cpu's for sale? I guess they're way too new? I guess I made the right choice for the money. A 2630qm was like $175 for the engineering sample. I picked up the 2720qm engineering sample for $190 which I don't think is bad, right? So how are these engineering samples? Could I get lucky and get a 2760qm with the 2720qm badge? I would love that! 2.4Ghz of Pure performance. All i'm hoping for is that under turbo boost it'll maintain 3Ghz on the 2720qm. I guess that's far fetched? My 2630qm maintained 2.6Ghz while gaming. So according to that 600Mhz boost. I suppose 2.8Ghz is more realistic? I'm crossing my fingers the 2720qm ES i get will be something special and not just a normal 2720qm. So do ES core i7's run cooler or hotter? and voltage wise?

    Thanks

    *UPDATE*

    Oops I didn't know the 2620/ 2640qm were dual cores? Weird as HELL.