Heatsinks on Heatpipe

The temperature cannot be lowered by any means other than what I am theorizing. The notebook has long heat-pipes. I want to supplement them with copper heatsinks. Another option would be to replace the internal fan with a more powerful model.

What should I buy and how do I connect it?

 

I used VRAM heatsinks that already had an adhesive on the bottom, you could epoxy them on or find another adhesive material.

 

Arctic Silver Thermal Adhesive is what I use to stick copper ram-sinks to my CPU/GPU coolers heat-pipes.

 

But did they help? Another user saidit just too longer to reach the same temp, but didn't lower the max temp. Maybe this is laptop dependent? Seems to me if they did much at all the manufacturer would put them on. After all they don't cost much.

 

Well not just the heat-pipes I put them over the flat surfaces of the heatsink/fan cooler as well where I could fit them.

And yes it does help with load temps (idle remains the same but less fan start-up) especially in my case when I upgraded from an i3 to a i7 quad with the stock cooler designed for duals according to Lenovo but I looked online and could not tell the difference between my cooler and a dissembled Y570 with stock quad core CPU and supposedly quad core cooler.

Anyhow, the point of the story is that it helps drop load temps and keeps the fan running less on idle and if you get a laptop cooler to blow cool air underneath the laptop then it'll work wonders combined with the cooler intake air...just make sure you change to good thermal paste for your CPU/GPU since adding the ram-sinks will do nothing if heat is not being optimally transferred from your CPU/GPU to the heatsink.

 

When I had my ASUS G71GX, it lowered my 260M temps like 3-4C on idle, at a whopping 12C on fully load, so I'd say for the 4.99 investment on VRAM heatsinks, yes it was worth it.

 

SEKISUI tap off ebay is very good and affordable (last time i check it wasn't being sold but might be back) Haggle you can get .5-1 dollar off if the guy still has make an offer.

get copper ram heatsinks off ebay or the zalman ones if they fit

also note you may get worse temps. I have heard it can mess up the flow of the gases in the tubes

also drill holes in bottom panel and get a cooler. That will yield best results.

this has pictures of what i did


ImageShack Album - 23 images

 

I second that, if you cannot get Artic Silver Thermal Adhesive and do not want to work with adhesive in general then SEKISUI tape is the next best thing.

I use SEKISUI tape to stick some ram-sinks to my videocards memory chips and power capacitors on my Y570's motherboard.

 

Thank You, All of you, this has been very helpful. I will be sure to post back with the results.

The $10 solution?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-8-pcs-N...US_Memory_Chipset_Cooling&hash=item53f710bdd0

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SEKISUI-576...hermal_Compounds_Supplies&hash=item232ee0ba2f

 

I'm very cautious with this since my adventures with the 3830tg, which has a known throttling problem when the CPU and the GPU are being used at the same time:

-Drilled holes in the bottom - no effect, whether the holes were over the fan or over the entire bottom plastic cover.

-Added copper heatsinks to bare copper heatpipe with thermal adhesive - no effect, no matter how many I used or their positioning.

-Added aluminum heatsinks to bare copper heatpipe with thermal adhesive - no effect, no matter how many I used or their positioning.

This leads me to believe that any benefits are very situational and depend solely on your specific laptop model. I would not attempt any of these mods without having prior knowledge that other people have tried them on that model and produced viable results.

And since laptops are often moved around, there is always the risk of heatsinks becoming dislodged. Adhesive dries out and having to stick them back on gets old fast.

The only things which I am in full support of are repasting and use of elevating the laptop above the desk to allow for more airflow or using a laptop cooler.

 

The problem most of us have already been doing both of those things and the only option left is replacing the entire cooling system which would cost 5 times more than what I am trying to do. Currently my laptop suffers from throttling while gaming. because the CPU and chipset like to stay under 85 C . Up until two years ago this wasn't a problem because they were usually around 75 C.

 

A big issue is if your laptop has a crappy cooling system to begin with, sometimes tiny incremental upgrades will make no difference.

 

Throttlestop is always an option. Unconfirmed mods which may or may not work can leave you worse off thermally than when you started.

 

I don't think it has a crappy cooling system. Throttestop may damage my system.

Well I want to order those items from eBay soon, so if there are no other options please say so.

 

I think you misunderstand Throttlestop...it's primarily used to manually reduce the clockrate of your CPU so it doesn't reach throttling temperatures and throttle to even lower multipliers. You're more likely to damage your system with hardware mods than you are with Throttlestop.

 

I have a similar problem with my laptop. I bought it in may 2011. One of the first things I did was to repaste the CPU and GPU with Arctic Silver Ceramique. After the repaste, the fan ran quieter than before.

Anyway, like a year later the computer was acting up. It was overheating when the GPU and CPU were at full load. I cleaned out the heatsink. It was mostly fine for a while after that. But it still ran hotter than when it was new. After the original repaste, the fan would run intermittently while the computer was idle. But then it was running all the time, even at idle. Temperatures got worse this past year, and I finally repasted it with Shin Etsu X23-7783D. It did help lower it by a few degrees, but the fan still is always on, and the computer can still overheat.

I'm wondering what could cause this. My thoughts are that maybe the fan is older so not running as strongly as it used to? Anyway, I would put heatsinks on my heatpipe, but for that to work, you need to have some sort of air flow over them.

 

Replacing the fan will be challenging...but not impossible. You will need to find a fan that can fit the fan housing of your OEM fans. All's you would do is replace the fan with the rotor attached. I honestly don't think that will make any difference though.

I had the same issues as Qing Dao. My Alienware's average temps kept going up and up no matter how much I repasted or cleaned the heatsinks. I added a Coolermaster U3 notebook cooler and it helped, but not to where it brought the averages down to the level they were first at.

So I decided to replace my CPU heatsink as a whole just for gits and shiggles.

Low and behold, my temps returned to their original averages!

I wish I had gotten a pic of the old and new heatsinks side by side to show you all. The old one had visible signs of oxidation (i.e. it's surface had turned a grayish green color). Now I'm not saying this is the case with your heatsinks. If yours have that pale green gray color to them, you can try cleaning the oxidation off with a little vinegar and see if it restores the shine and the better cooling.

There also was a blurt by another Alienware tech that the heatsink pipes were nitrogen filled and the nitrogen can leak out over time. But I have found no evidence to support that theory.