LIVE!!! Calling all XM chip, 3930K/3960X and ultrabook owners! Heat-Spring TIMs for testing!

is this corrosive at all?

 

No, it's a malleable metal that melts just above 313° F. I have a 5G ingot in my hand, it's non-toxic. It won't liquify but it will get soft and shape to your chip and HS perfectly. I've been using copper and Cooler Master compund and now I'm switching to indium TIM's.

 

As in this heat spring or another source?

 

Nice idea.

Maybe in a few years, i'll put an i7-4930MX in my CPU and test.

But for now, MX/XM chips are just way too expensive, especially since you can buy 5% weaker equivalents for 50% less.

 

That's without factoring in overclocking. It gets different once you count that in.

 

i7-4700MQ is unlocked (probably overlooked by Intel).

 

Not it's not, at least not in the sense the XM CPU's are. It can be increased by 200 MHz but the XM can go as high as your cooling and power supply allow.

 

If you want an idea of why people want xm cpu's, consider that my old 940xm, overclocked, matches and exceeds the 4700mq in gaming. That's 4 generations older tech.

 

i disagree my 3720qm is far faster than a 920xm even at 4GHz the instructions per clock are significantly higher.

don't get me wrong it is still fast but does not top IB or haswell bottom barrel quad cores. It is still relevant and a great way to make a laptop last a long time...like the fabled m17x R2 or M18x R1

 

Well, I'd like to argue with that I've got my hands on some Fujifilm pressure paper (and some 14W/mk fujipoly pads, but those are entirely off-topic ) and finally managed to start pushing this CPU. I'd been having problems getting the heatsink properly even on the die, and was having very bad results and temps with my CPU.

Getting the heatsink to sit on the die evenly was a challenge, but now I can run it @ 25/25/25/25 @ 100TDP with max prime temps of 87C now, but it's at the limit of stability without overvolting, and increasing voltage even +75mV will raise those temps sky-high, to 98-99C, So I have plenty of power headroom waiting above (I've run this chip @28x/140bclk - effective 3.9GHz) but I didn't get to check its stability, because in like 5 seconds in prime the whole thing hits 100C and multis drop massively) but no thermal headroom.

If there's still material waiting to be tested, I'll start filling out the form and taking the pictures as soon as possible. Let me know, bro.

 

so you can get better temps with the thermal pad than paste? I don't think i have ever heard that before. I would love to see pics if that is the case.


Remind me Wednesday and I'll send stuff out Thursday when i am off to you and dumb dumb and whoever else asked. I am still stuck on mine due to lack of time. I know what i need to do it is just time consuming and i have spent i think well over a week (like 18 hours x 7+days) fiddling around over the course of this :/

I'll also send you guy's a pack of 1000-3000 grit paper. Just remember you really don't have to sand much to make it even. Even pressure is the issue. I really buggered up one heat sink because i didn't realize how little needs to be removed, which makes me think this stuff doesn't work or doesn't work on my G51j. My G51j pulls really weird on the heatsink when mounted. Probably the worst engineered laptop ever.

BTW i can get 27 26 25 25/24 (forget last one) on my G51j lol with past and run at like 85C folding but need to do pin mod to gie myself more vs for any higher :/ I really want to hit 4GHz but i can't get it any cooler no matter what i try. Granted i am starting off on the crappies laptop in the world that used to over head with 40w TDP

Also if anyone has an R4 and can tell me how to get it to have more pressure let me know. The R4 blows...it literally barely makes contact so HS works better than stock but a lot worse compared to ICD Like half the CPU doesn't even break 20 PSI or whatever is the min on pressure paper. I have like half of the pressure paper as being white -_-

To dumb dumb and someone else it is only corrosive is copper. Indium has this weird habit of bonding or something. I forget what it is actually called so HS is coated with something to keep that from happening since it will drop its mwk.

Also it is hazardous to a point. It isn't a bad idea to wash your hands after using it. It is bad for you like most heavy metals are. I posted the safety sheet in the front page.

 

Cool to know, I'll drop you a reminder on wednesday then. As far as the thermal pad is concerned, it would be better than paste if:

- you couldn't get direct copper-to-core contact with the paste
and/or
- you'd have really THIN thermal pad (let's say 0.05mm).

At the moment the sheet I have is 0.5mm thick, and that's far too thick for any sort of cooling. Copper has I believe 87W/mk or something, so it's much better in any scenario where you can touch the heatsink to the die.
Let me know how much I should paypal your way for shipping and extras (and also beer ). Keep in mind I'm in Bucharest, Romania.
Regarding your G51J, I have my doubts that the thermal system can even dissipate what you're trying to do. Am I right in assuming it has only one heatpipe? Maybe the heatpipes are damaged and lost gas and you need a replacement heatsink.

 

indium has the 87 mwk copper is...wikipediing....401 mwk

The heat pipes work the same as always just the system isn't meant to get rid of 90+w lol. I pull 80w at 27 27 25 25/27 27 25 24. I need more voltage for higher but i won't be able to get higher voltage without getting HS to work. ICD is maxed. Heat sink has some weird pressures due to how to rests in case. It sits heavy on one side because of the case. I can push on it to balance it out lol. Really shotty. No one thought i could get a 920xm let alone at 80w lol. My R4 is even worse than my G51j :/ How does that work out? The heatsink on the R4 has at best 0-30 PSI *face palm*

This weekend i might try to organize all my pressure tests. I have done about 40-70 of them so another reason why i have kinda given up....just much data to organize and when i did this i had no real space or area to be organize so i might not be able to remember and figure out the exact order. I used a method of cutting the edges as number but i will be lucky to sort them. I did soooo much testing....i am getting drained just typing this lol.

 

You could try compensating for the aberrant pressure by running the machine with the hood open if you can, and adjusting the heatsink screws carefully while watching the temps during prime. This is possible on my m17x r2, i don't know about other machines though.
Dude, I can imagine how tired you are, you've put a ton of work into this project

 

i have ti cranked....i drilled down the base where the screws screw into to create insane pressure...i am running a risk of cracking lol. Also i wonder if too much pressure actually bends the copper plate so the middle doesn't get pressure...cranked thats not an issue but i wonder if your right i should try fittling with the screws with it on. Worth a shot.

 

Copper is semi-malleable, and the plate itself is pretty thin. This is what happened to mine. I screwed it down tight and it only worsened my temps, I had to let the corners loose because I was getting hot pockets due to the bend. It's much, much better now.

 

yea mine stayed the same no difference but i do wonder if i cranked down hard enough on the bending side and tightened loosely on the other side if it would have better results.


(btw if that sentence sounds bad this was what i first wrote....yea my brain is not working today at all.)

God my brain is retarded on some days.

 

Well, basically, anytime you see the corners bending, it's clear that the plate is already on the die, it's not getting any lower. because the bending corners and the copper plate are separate pieces. Aluminum is more malleable than copper, so it will do a nice bow shape, and this will push the copper down unevenly.
My recommendation for increasing pressure is to place something thermally resistant under the keyboard and over the plate area (directly on the heatpipes unfortunately, so make sure it's a good insulator) and obtain extra pressure that way. The cool thing when doing this on the m17x r2 is that there's an extra cover plate between the keyboard and heatsink, and you still have a pressure surface over the heatsink even with the keyboard removed, allowing you to do the manual adjustments on the heatsink after increasing the pressure.

Some kind of mineral wool (rock wool, glass wool, etc.) would be a good option for increasing the pressure, wrapped up in thermal tape or with thermal tape applied on the sides beforehand in order to not scratch around. http://www.thermaxxjackets.com/5-most-common-thermal-insulation-materials/

 

Friendly wednesday reminder here I'll try and get the document ready when I get home tonight (I hope I don't get sidetracked... work leaves me with shoddy memory).

 

everyone that wants one pm me your address and i'll send it out tomorrow

 

Gonna just on this band wagon. Are the heat springs re-usable? Getting pretty sick of pasting all the time simply because once the heatsink is removed, the contact is compromised. Can a heatspring mitigate this?

 

as long as you don't crinkle it it is reusable. Also if i recall you want to clean it before applying it so get a micro fiber cloth with a little bit of rubbing alcohol and clean it up because it does oxidize if i recall. Only takes a short time for it to reoxidizes.


How do you get the R4 with the XM chip to 4.3ghz? What wattage is that? I can't even sustain 3.8 on my while running F@H. Using HS right now...this heatsink has NO pressure. Even with ICD i am not sure if i was able to hit 3.8GHz 24/7. Stock tim was terrible. I cost at 3.5GHz at like 85C :/ Right now i am turboing all over the place because room is 75-80 degrees lol

 

It sounds to me like there was a lack of proper contact, i.e. uneven distribution of pressure on your die. Does your machine allow you to try the open-hood, screw-tightening trick?

 

i have like i am guess 30-40PSI on the outer edge and the center has 0 lol. Well less than 22 psi because thats the lowest the paper goes. I got all the crpa laying around i really need to scan it all. I am not sure how to fittle with the m17x R4 to get it to seat better.

was low on my list at the time.

 

Wow, that's horrible. Do you have the option of doing a retention mod? (Are your heatsink screws held by washers?)

 

if i remember the R4 had like metal ones i thought so i wasn't going to drill them down like i did on my G51j....i don't want metal dust floating around :/ Again this was months or even a year ago so i am a little fuzzy.

I wish the hyperbolic time chamber existed :/ or i lived longer so i could just finish it :/ Anyone live in IL and wants to borrow my G51j and finish where i left off lol

 

My R4 doesn't sustain that clock. That's the clock that I can theoretically run at without any change in voltage. 80watts with short turbo turned off.

 

can you elaborate

 

As in when I set it to 4.3Ghz in the bios, the computer will load into windows etc. When I set it to 4.4Ghz, I will blue screen before I get into Windows meaning a lack of voltage. I'm sure that I can achieve a higher overclock if I fiddle with the voltage. But currently heat is the main issue and Ivy doesn't sustain infinite turbo that Sandy Bridge could with the right settings.

 

so you can't maintain 4.3 24/7 on load like F@H? I cna noly maintain 3.5 with like 80-95c depending on room temp

 

You guys and your sandy low-tdp chips I could only maintain 3.3GHz @ 100TDP (although full turbo ). I can't wait for the heatspring to get here. I have some damn hotspots on my heatsink contact, and if I let the computer run long above 80C, the paste dies on me and one of the cores overheats. Right no I did a boo-boo trying to check my temps overvolted again, and I ruined my paste and have to run 62TDP to maintain decent temps.

It's not so much about pressure (once you're talking at least 30+ PSI though) as it is about even contact and distribution of heat. What would you rather have? One core @100C and another at 72C, or both at 85C?

 

Alright seriously i really want to get ride of all this HS (i really don't have too much left) i have but i don't want to make multiple trips to the post office so i need addresses and CPUs/GPUs so i know how to cut this and package it....Please PM me.

Remember trips to post office don't just cost me time...it also costs me 30 cents a mile ...i R laZy!

http://forum.notebookreview.com/off...inions-my-corolla-cost-own-cost-per-mile.html

nm all i got is sangemaru...still need widezu69 and dumbdumb. Sent PMs

I'll send two pieces for everything to make sure if have enough. If one piece gets botched or if you need two pieces to stack on each other.

Also these have a cure time too so see if temps get worse or better with time....you might have to re-tighten them or reposition them as they flatten....depends on pressure and evenness so be prepared to fittle around with them.

Also Sangemaru get on our F@H TEAM!!!!!!!!!! and the rest of you we need points for Science!!!!

 

Thanks loads bro Don't forget to pm your steam id and choice of game too for when salary drops by hehe.
Regarding f@h, i confess I have no idea what protein folding is, does and how I can contribute lol. How do I join the team?

Yea, I expect it will take quite a bit of tweaking to get even pressure (especially since overtightening my heatsink really messes up pressure distribution and I have to play it by ear) but I have some fujifilm pressure paper waiting for the work. I'm really curious and enthusiastic to see what's gona happen.

 

I know I'm a little late to the party and I've probably looked at this post about 100 times, out of pure laziness, I just haven't replied. If you're still needing testers, I have a 2920XM I'm willing to test with.

 

PM me address and as long as i have enough i'll send you some.......I have 3 full pieces to give out so I can get any where from 5-10 people i think. Depending on the size of the dies and how good i am at cutting them. So i have plenty for you. I really want someone with a desktop to try this really damn bad :/ That can over clock the out of their CPU.


http://forum.notebookreview.com/windows-os-software/630741-nbr-folding-home-team.html

 

Address sent

 

My roommate has a desktop with a i7-920 that he was wanting to overclock for a while. Past 4GHz it overheats heavily on him, so he didn't dare. If you want to check that out, that would be an option.

 

let me know what TIM he uses and temp ranges and TDP. Also what heatsink he uses as well

 

I'll try and nag him about it when he gets back from work.

 

Neah, he changed his mind about overclocking, so no-go on him as a desktop user. I myself would definitely go for it though, if I had a desktop Oh well.
Any update on more people joining in? I can't wait until you'll be sending them out, I tried some ultra-high-performance 14W/mk 0.5mm thick thermal padding as a TIM, and it worked way beyond expectations - could run the 940xm chip at 25/25/25/25 @ 62W TDP under 85C. I'm sure a tim like the heatspring will do some really impressive things.

 

you can't get getting better temps withing ICD or MX-5 or whatever it is called? Ussually a paste beats a thermal pad...even a high-end one????

I need widez or whatever. PMing him now. There should be 4 of you if he joins in. I don't have time to run to post office several times....thats why i am dragging my feet. :/

 

Address sent. i7 3940XM waiting. Currently rocking ICD24, awaiting heat springs. My biggest hope is for better reusability. A graphics card or CPU change is always so messing having to clean things and repaste etc etc. We will see.

 

I've gotten the best performance so far with Prolimatech PK-3 @ 100W TDP (84C max during heavy stress). Unfortunately, I don't know why, but thermal paste performance degrades extremely fast on my machine - the heatsink has contact issues at maximum tighten, and I have to tweak the screws to obtain optimal performance. Unfortunately after a week or two performance degrades heavily and I have to re-paste. That's why one coherent sheet of metal sounds lovely. It should hold its shape and not need readjustment.

 

yea but 100 TDP isn't 100 TDP at 25 25 25 25 you are probably getting 60-70 TDP depending on task if i recall.

what temps do you get on the 780?

Also ICD is ICD 7/24 denotes the size of the tube FYI


Also I'll send it out next Monday. Since i just got all the addresses and sizes I'll cut it over the weekend. I have 2 exams this week and yet to study -_-Totally not getting As this semester....Bs it is :/

 

Tomorrow is monday How's your study time? Managed to score the exams well?

 

yea dude i literally studied for like 8 hours....effective studying that is. I pulled off a 79. BTW i also didn't listen the last two weeks ^^ I was buying talking to kara, browsing the interwebs, and playing games -_- Terrible I know.

I am also going to send you guys some high grit sand paper too if you want to police the surface for fun.

 

I assume 79 is a passing grade, yea?

I wanna polish this baby because the heatsink is SO uneven. At the moment screwing it down fully causes air pockets and no core contact. Have to find a mystical sweet-spot that doesn't stick.

EDIT: So so so so so so... did you get to post them out? I just did some research regarding the i7-920 (which is rumored to be the same chip used for the mobile extreme processors of Clarksfield) and it appears to have a power consumption of around 200W at 3.8GHz ) If the Heatspring is good enough at cooling I may end up blowing up my PSU, heh.

 

was looking over it yesterday and widezu69 hasn't hit me back with the last info i need. I need more info on his 780m if it is worth while sending some for that. I PMed him again so ill keep you posted.

You also said the 7970m on yours is cool right?

 

My 7970m's are cool because I keep them undervolted to 0.975V at stock speeds The cards will shut the system down if they go over 85C, so i don't feel like experimenting, and I've had problems trying to up the voltage.
So for example, I can't tell you how they'd behave at +90 temps because they'll shut down before they get there, but I CAN try to do OC'ing on them within that 85C thermal limit and see if the Heatspring can keep them cool I'd love to.

Of course, that's if there's enough material lying around with no better usage .

 

ok that is interesting i run my 7970m in the R4 at 1.075v and it hit 65c and than fan kicks up and drops temp....i can't get get high enough to even keep the fan on full speed lol. The GPU heatsink and fan is nuts...the CPU fan/heatsink on this are a joke. So what clocks and voltage can you get max right now?