My I5 cpu gets 99 degrees!

I have a I5 4310m and during gaming all 4 cpu's gets 99 degrees celcius. My GPU (860m) stays around 75 degree though. Is this normal?

 

Maybe...more information on the conditions would be helpful. Roughly what temperature is the room you're using the computer in? Are the vents at the bottom of the machine blocked (i.e. are you playing with it flat on your bed or couch)?

 

Room temperature is around 19 degrees and my notebook is on a table. A wall is behind but about 15cm away. And I just got this notebook a few days and it came pasted with fresh cooling paste!

 

Hmm, I would probably return it and start shopping for something with two fans maybe.

Or try repasting yourself/elevating the rear of the chassis.

What game/settings? It's clearly limited by your CPU. Maybe consider an i7?


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Two fans aren't really that necessary. Clevo 230SS does quite well with cooling an overclockable i7 and 860m with just one fan.

Seems like something is wrong with the cooling assembly for the CPU to hit 99C. Can you RMA it?

 

Have you tried uundervolting it?

 

How do I do that?
But I did set maximum processor performance at 50% in energy consumption and then I got 70 degrees maximum but also slower frame rates.
I have also opened and checked to see if the thermal grease has been right put on and it was, so nothing wrong there, but perhaps buying a premium one like arctic and put it on myself might help decrease the heat on the processor much more?

 

You did repaste after removing the heatsink and before putting it back, right?

 

No, I don't have any paste just yet. But I checked the temp again and it hasn't increased or anything, its stil at 97-99 degrees during gaming and around 59 degrees on desk.

 

Are you saying there's NO thermal paste between the heatsink and CPU? Because that would certainly explain the temperatures you're seeing.

 

I am betting at the old paste still being there with all the air bubbles that were created by removing the heatsink and not repasting. Once you remove a heatsink, you have to repaste. Currently, the old paste is full of air bubbles and isn't doing its job as a result. That would explain the temps.

After you repaste if you still get high temperatures, you may have a damaged heatpipe which would require you to have the heatsink replaced. Start by repasting and if you are still getting problems, we'll cross that bridge when you get there.

 

There are no bubbles, in fact the paste still seemed kind of fresh to me. I just got this notebook 2 days ago. Ive encountered some other people using this same Clevo 370ss, and it seems to be a known thing. However some people have gotten 10 degrees of by putting there own paste, so I think I need to do this as well.
How long would the CPU last if it was always at 99 degrees during gaming? According to the specs of the I5 4310m that I have the 100 degrees seems to be the maximum normal temp!

 

Well, did you remove the heatsink or not? If you removed it, you have likely created air bubbles even though you didn't see them when you put the heatsink back on. The paste was already on both components and unevenly spread over the whole surface due to the heatsink being removed, that means that you will have pockets of air trapped between the heatsink and cpu die due to the uneven paste. The paste doesn't have to be dry for air bubbles to be trapped in it. It may look all goey and fresh, but if it's not applied properly (there are more than one ways to go at that), then air bubbles are likely present. If you didn't physically remove the heatsink, then there is no way you could tell the paste job was done correctly in any reliable manner.

 

If that is true then im going to be in trouble, so now im forced to go buy paste immediately then. In the mean time im watching carefully the temperature.

 

Once you even start unscrewing the heatsink, expect the thermal paste to physically disintegrate and allow air bubbles to form.

The only ones that can resist disintegration would be the ones that are also adhesive, but then you would never be able to remove the heatsink again.

 

If you are going to replace the paste you should get Coollaboratory Liquid MetalPad TIM. I've tried Arctic Silver 5, Gelid Extreme, and Coollaboratory Liquid MetalPad. With AS5 my temps dropped 2-3 degrees over stock TIM, with the gelid extreme they dropped 5-7 degrees over stock tim and with Coollaboratory Liquid MetalPad it dropped 8-10 degrees over stock tim. Not only was it's performance utterly amazing it's also 100% foolproof to install. Simply cut the metal film to fit over you heatspreader put it in place and let the cpu melt it into place. You will get perfect coverage your first try it's the easiest to install and since it is actual pure metal it conducts heat better than any paste. You will see that 99 come down to 89 or even better no doubt.

 

I have not heard of that TIM before.

Do you have anymore information on it?

 

Thread on NBR about LiquidMetal Pad

If you're going to go the metallic paste route, I'd personally go with Liquid Ultra. At least I have more control over how much I apply and where it goes.

 

some people would see the added control as more complexity and harder to get just right. The pad is almost impossible to not apply a very good layer. you measure and cut the exact dimensions and center it above the heatspreader put your heatsink on and let the cpu melt it perfectly into place. It will always be the right amount as the thin strip of unmelted metal they provide melts down to exactly what is needed to fill the gap with perfectly formed metal that conducts heat better than basically almost every other tim. The metal pad melts and fuses the heatspreader to the heatsink making them practically connected as 1 piece of metal with not even a single microscopic bubble of air.

If you are uncomfortable with a metal tim that is electrically conductive I would go with the gelid gc extreme. It does a very good job even tho it's not pure metal like the pads. It's one of the highest rated tims for thermal conductivity and really only loses out to the coollaboratory liquid metal lineup.

One other bad part about the metal pads is the way they melt and fuse together the heatsink and heatspreader while great for keeping temps down it's a real pain in the a$$ if you ever want to change your heatsink to a new one or change your cpu to a new one. They are almost permanently fused together. It can be taken apart but its a very crappy messy process that is a huge pain in the azz . If you have no need to ever change the cpu or heatsink than this doesn't matter.

 

Sounds like the OP is not experienced with repasting, so I'd recommend a conventional paste, like AS5 or my favorite IC Diamond. Liquid Metal stuff is all metal and can cause a short of the system if not careful, or when removing the paste as well. I would stick with conventional paste for the time being.

 

I would add, that in my experience, the thinner the layer of paste then the better it will work. It's there to fill the gaps between the two surfaces.

John

 

These Clevo machines have issues with pressure... best to use a thick paste like IC Diamond with them if you're not going to use Liquid Metal. I had to use a thick coating of IC Diamond to wrangle in the temperatures on my secondary GPU because the contact pressure isn't even. Seems to be commonly reported that Clevo's heatsinks are like that.

 

I would suggest IC Diamond or Arctic Cooling MX-4.. Both are quite good..

 

just to clarify.
as youve just received your notebook back with new paste, who put on the new paste for you?
when you received it did you open the base and remove the screws to the cpu/gpu and lift the heat pipes up to check on the paste?

if yes to the above its advisable not to use your notebook at all until you get new paste on it.
as soon as youve broken the seal of the paste its worthless again and will need cleaning off and new thermal paste applied.
using the laptop now with high 99c readings is just asking for trouble and maybe even shortening the life of the hardware.

to be safe could you not ask the person that previously put the paste on to do some more for you.

 

I ordered this Clevo on a online store and the location is far away from where I live. The 99 degrees is only when gaming, not all the time, I mailed the store for this and they tell its normal to be that high when gaming.

But now im looking for a new pasta myself and the Coollaboratory MetalPad sounds neat. But would desktop Coollaboratory MetalPad CPU do for mobile CPU as well? And do I need to buy a cleansingkit as well to remove any traces of the previous pasta, or would something like alcohol do the job as well?

 

Doesn't sound very encouraging to me. And wouldn't it degrade over time anyway? And I think you're overlooking one thing: laptop CPUs do NOT have a heat spreader, so we're talking about fusing the heatsink directly the CPU die. Sounds awfully risky to me.

Lapping the heatsink will help, I shaved off 4C by lapping my slave GPU heatsink (it wasn't very warped to begin with so not a huge drop in temps)

What utter BS. And these same crooks will likely turn around and tell you your warranty is void when your CPU fries because you were running it too hot.

Do you want to fuse your CPU to your heatsink? Stay away from any metallic pastes for now. Plus I remember someone asking Coollaboratory whether the desktop pads would work for mobile CPUs, and they said no.

 

Ok then I'll go for Gelid GC Extreme, I've seen some good reviews for that.

 

Newegg reviews and elsewhere would seem to point that it varies significantly from batch to batch which is why I didn't order any of it.

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Update, I just bought Gelid GC Extreme and have put it on after using a cleaning kit on the previous what was on there and I made a mess of it but it still turnt our right when starting it up.
At idle I still get around 60 degrees but now after a long gaming session I get around 81 degrees on all 4 cpu's! That is a whopping 18 degree difference right there!
However my GPU temp has increased during idle from 43 to 49 now and during gaming I get 70 degrees for my 860m, is that ok?

 

Your GPU temp is definitely ok and congrats on getting decent CPU temps, you can now stress that thing as much as you like. Be sure to put CPU performance to 100% in power settings under plugged in so you get turbo frequencies if you haven't done so already.

 

great temperatures, panic over

 

That is perfectly fine.

Enjoy your cool gaming experience.

 

Bro, I think I can give you a good idea. There was this time that I was doing nothing and my CPU temps went rising up to 85! I started task manager and found out that an app called dgen.exe was the culprit. I researched about it and one of its causes is sudden shutdown, which is true for my case considering the frequent power outages due to bad weather. The Internet also suggested fixing registry files to terminate the problem.

 

dgen.exe is malware a simple malware remover like https://www.malwarebytes.org/ would remove that for you.

 

99 degree temperatures when gaming is not normal. If I'd bought a laptop with that high of temperatures when new, I would've returned it. Sure, you can try to fix it yourself, but IMO it isn't worth trying to fix it when it's 2 days old and you can return it. It may just need re-pasted, but that might not the only cause, and even if it does just need re-pasted, it shouldn't need that when new. The manufacturer messed up somewhere; you shouldn't have to take a risk, however small, of making things worse or voiding your warranty by trying to fix it yourself by repasting.

As it is, 81 CPU/70 GPU is an acceptable temperature. Not great, but not horrible. So there's no particular need to return it at this point.

And for reference, even if you remove the heatsink and put it back without repasting, you shouldn't be hitting 99C. Yes, you would if you removed the old paste, but if it's still there, it shouldn't be that high, even though it won't be as good as it was previously. I've occasionally swapped CPUs without repasting just to make sure they work, and while the temperatures aren't great (usually low 80s at load), they aren't boiling, either.

 

I don't care the manufacturer or model, if the system is a gaming laptop, 99% of the time it will need a repaste. Factory application of the paste and the kind of paste are substandard. I agree you shouldn't have to, but you could go through 3-4 laptops before you find one with acceptable temperatures, and even then it still won't be as good as doing it yourself. Even "non-gaming" laptops can benefit, just that they usually aren't as susceptible to overheating just because of the loads applied.

Not great? Those are perfectly normal, actually probably a little cool compared with others.

You got lucky then. Removing the heatsink and not cleaning off the paste and reapplying is risking high temps. I do it occasionally if I'm trying to root cause a problem, but once I get it figured out I'll do a thorough cleaning and reapply paste.

 

Temps are meaningless without context. For example when playing Watch Dogs my 780Ms top out at 68C/73C, but if I play Far Cry 3 it's +10C to those temps.

That being said, 81 CPU/70 GPU is great assuming a demanding modern shooter was being played.

And in my experience, even the simple act of installing the heatsink without any paste will cause the GPU to reach the throttling temp (93C) within 2 minutes of starting a game, so having no heatsink will almost certainly result in a system shutdown within a minute.

 

What did I say that gelid gc extreme is some really good paste. I only changed to the liquid metal because it is the best conductor of heat of all pastes that's a 100% fact. Who cares that it fuses rly strongly together. That fusing means like literal zero air gaps. You get a perfect super thin coating of metal perfectly melting to fill the gaps and the heatsink basically becomes totally connected to the cpu for maximum heat transfer. I'll never have to change the cpu again or heatsink again so the fact it is fused doesnt concern me.

Glad you liked the gelid gc extreme it is a superb paste a little difficult to work with but you just warm the paste up and it spreads a lot better. It is really the best paste performance wise other than the coollaboratory liquid metal series which is the best of the best but you gotta know what you are doing.

 

I think you replied to the wrong thread lol

Liquid Ultra does the same thing as LiquidPad and is a less permanent solution, as I value the freedom of being able to change my CPU and heatsink. But hey if it works great for you that's all that matters.

Gelid wasn't too hard to work with, no need for pre-heating just need a bit more force to push it out of the syringe. Far too early for me to say whether it's the "best", considering I've only tried MX-4, Gelid GC Extreme, and Liquid Ultra. Have some ShinEtsu pastes which will arrive this week so we'll see.

Also, I care a lot more about longevity than short term effectiveness. Let's see how long this Gelid application will hold before temps start creeping up. MX-4 already tanked after 30 hours of gaming, so at least I have a benchmark.

 

Liquid Ultra is a pain... Not worth a minor 1-2C difference. When I had to clean it up today, the stuff beaded up on the die and did not want to grip the qtip. It's a good thing my common sense kicked in and I put duct tape around the core to cover the VRMs when I was removing it because it wanted to go everywhere but onto the alcohol soaked qtip.

I don't think I'll be using it ever again, I just hope that they don't say anything about my stained heatsink...

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You need sufficient die contact for Liquid Ultra to really work. I've personally seen my load temps drop about 7C after switching to Liquid Ultra from MX-4.

 

It was on my GPU which has better contact than my CPU which CLU is useless on. If my CPU heatsink was flat with decent contact pressure it would probably do wonders but it doesn't do a lot for the GPU and when you're taking it off, it wants to go everywhere but the qtip and when it does stick to the qtip the beads fall off!

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I wonder if you just got unlucky with your machines, or these were the sort of issues that mySN alluded to.

 

I really should PM them.

The parts in the machine are all labeled as P370SM though so unless Clevo messed up the dimensions of things, they should be extremely similar.

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Yeah that's what's puzzling to me, the internal components are all derived (or knicked) from P370SM, and only the chassis has really changed.