NVIDIA GeForce 8600M GS Question.

hey i have a hp dv9825nr it has a NVIDIA GeForce 8600M GS and according to my family computer guy the video card it shot that is all he could tell me though. i want to know if i can just buy a replacement and install it. i found this website that has one for sale New NVIDIA GeForce 8600M GS G86-731-A2 BGA Graphic Processor Chipset (i couldn't find it on new egg) so could i just order that and replace it? thanks for your help

 

The graphics chip is soldered onto your motherboard. It can't be easily replaced

 

You'd have to replace the entire motherboard because the GPU is soldered to the board. However, HP's dv6000/9000 series are equipped with defective Nvidia GPUs that break down over time. Basically, the soldering substrate is unable to tolerate the rapid cooling/heating of the GPU and begins to crack, which results in no contact with the motherboard pins.

What I'm saying is that even replacing the motherboard won't solve the problem. Eventually, the GPU will simply fail again.

 

You need a BGA soldering station. I read something about someone replacing a CPU in a sony vaio UX handheld series, but it takes some serious skill. I would say if you notebook has an 8600M GS then it's time to replace it.

 

Unfortunately, Wally33 is right. You'd need a BGA soldering station, which is a lot more expensive than a new PC. The only viable option to keeping your current notebook is to find another motherboard for your PC with a defective, but working, GPU.

 

NO NO NO, alright newbs this is how you fix an onboard nvidia card just like they did with this desktop card but, with the laptop motherboard.

8800GT GPU Reflow with hot air gun - YouTube

it also works with mobile cards it's the only reason i own the Acer 5920G i have today. The process is called re flowing.

 

so thats 4 give ups and 1 use a hot air gun, i was trying to put off buying a new one for college.... thanks for your replies!

 

^^ Noob? Yea you can fix it with a heat gun or baking it in the oven the the real question is how long is this going to last? noob.
This laptop is used for college? Can you really afford to have a system failure during your studies?
I know I couldn't.

 

ok well let me explain farther, all the post on the internet i have seen about heating it up have been fixes when the card displays things like artifacts or lines or dots ect. my screen will turn on (meaning the light turn on) but it will not display anything nor will the computer make any startup sounds ect...
i will be in college next year and university to which i am attending will provide full repair service, warranties, software everything, if i buy it through them. i currently use my laptop at school everyday, i would be willing to try a temp fix because i am constantly backing up my work and all i need is for it to get me through one more semester...
Thanks

 

NO NO NO, not a hot air gun JUST NO that will most certainly kill it it even more by getting it too hot you need controlled temp and flux.

also the thermal pad usually always needs replaced with a smooth flat copper shim and high quality thermal paste to keep it from happening again. in the case of my acer 5920g not only did i do that i found out there were actually NO cpu fan holes in the bottom cover and had to make some.

 

is it me, or would it be easier to just buy a new laptop?

 

well for me the guy doing the work and knowing what and how to do it, it's as easy as playing with Lego. there area number of guides on how to do it or some shops that charge a reasonable fee, i think the shop i work at charges a little over 100 bucks with guarantee of workmanship.

 

i actually found a place here that will fix it for 135 sound like a deal to me! thanks for you help guys

 

as long as they know steps are needed to keep it from failing again.

 

Absolutely not worth it for a reflow, your money, you can waste it on what you want.

No matter how its done, a reflow is not permanent. The solder is the same and will still crack again.
There are companies that will do a full reball which means replacing the solder for less than 135$. You have to ask for photo proof of a full reball.

I'm sure I could find that motherboard new for 135$. Seriously, you think thats worth it? No way.

 

I agree with the above post. $135 for a temporary solution is just the same as paying money to delay the problem rather than actually fix it. It is shortsighted and frankly a little stupid.

 

while do i agree about the reball it can be made near permanent or to last a long time but, how?

Temperature! Temperature! Temperature! Temperature! Temperature!

In all the ones i've seen worked on or help work on they have improper cooling such as to thick of thermal pads of even on one model almost no cooling at all with problem such the heat sink not contacting the surface not from heights but, improper length or size heat sinks.

i swear the people design stuff worse than bunch of monkeys slinging poop.



We use these (except ours are round aside from the thin copper sheeting.) to fix these gaps or miss alignments they usually always keeps keeps the temps so much lower that stock that the new solder really isn't needed. we have had a few come back but, the ones that have back haven't come back a third time and usually were some of the first ones we did we have improved out technique over time.

Spoiler

Your still right about thing a reball is truly the ultimate fix how ever time and money are the deciding factor. We would never sell it if couldn't give a decent guarantee my boss is especially particular about that. we have been in business a for 30 years because we do good work and treat are customers right.

ultimately the reball is king but, if you play your cards right a reflow can work and for a very long time.


EDI: flux goes a long, long way.

 

By using leaded solder.

I'm sorry but you haven't been in business for 30 years because you do the best work. In fact that would probably put you out of business. You're saying it yourself, but I just have to restate it, you are doing repairs that are good enough for the end user, for the time you guarantee it.

Temperature is not that easy to control. Lets say you had near perfect cooling for the idle temps, GPU stayed at 30c. If the total thermal capacity was still not enough, it might spike up to 80c very quickly under load.

It might stay under 80c the whole time. As we all know this is considered to be a safe temperature for graphics cards. This is not the problem.

The failing point of the solder on these Nvidia chipsets is due to temperature fluctuation. Lets say the cooling was very good, and the card was at 70c heavy load. Then take all the load off... goes down to 30c in 10 seconds.
Perfect 'under control' temps. Yet the solder will crack eventually, rather quickly if you keep doing that. This is why they were defective.

We don't want our hardware to be stable. That is a good thing only in scientific experiments. Hardware is meant to be built to take punishment.

Modern graphics cards are built very well and the fact of these defective chipsets really gives the entire generation of core 2 laptops a bad name. I think maybe if we started actually believing in reballs more we wouldn't have to think about and treat these laptops like babies.

Modern graphics cards succeed in taking a lot of punishment and rarely fail. All this without leaded solder because of ROHS. Imagine what we can do with leaded solder that responds much better to temperature fluctuations.

 

I agree with you on the leaded solder you make goo point on fluctuation. most of the time the idle stay just high as did before shims but the load goes down. i would call that better temp control as they usually don't spike and drop like that.

I would think the manufacturers would be aware of this when programming fan speed then again they are about as dumb as box of rocks sometimes too.

on the other hand the people we probably fix this stuff for probably don't play games either.

I should say they have been in business as in before i was in diapers. as far as i know we always back are stuff up. you certainly do make wonder abut transitioning to reballs from re flows if get the equipment and technique hence my other thread.

not sure what you mean by the defective core 2 series i didn't know any thing about that, while some of the ones we re flowed were core 2 we actually get a variety of sockets. so far we have had only a few returns all of with were repaired other than just those few we haven't had any complaints or major failures. maybe though it's because they aren't running furmark for fun i don't know but, i do know it comes warrenteed for a certain amount of time.


i don't buy the whole modern cards rarely fail i doubt any RMA department would agree with that if anything they fail more because of RHOS solder. boy of boy have seen and read about quite a few failed cards. in fact i think older hardware actually takes more punishment than newer hard ware for the fact they use beefier components. i believe newer stuff i s built to take punishment though specially with ROHS dragging down on quality.

though i have heard ROHS has come a way in quality but, i'm willing to guess it still may not be as good as leaded or even higher dollar ROHS, as bet they aren't even using that nice of solder to begin with or maybe it's just as simple as ROHS not quite comparing to leaded.


EDIT: wanted to point out it's not to bad of buy even it last only a few more years we had one lady that came in and had a freak re flow issue with the ati/amd chip set on an hp tx2 series she paid 300+ USD at another shop and it failed a month later and they told her to go blow her self. we ended up fixing it for her and we definitely didn't charger her 300+ usd. just wanted to say even though it's not the perfect fix it can be cost effective at, least compared to what other shops pedal if think we are bad some of these other shops we compete with shouldn't even be in business at all.