Removing laptop back plate for cooling reasons. Cons?

After reapplying thermal paste to my CPU and GPU, I noticed little difference on the CPU, and no difference on the GPU (not sure if it requires curing, I used Tuniq TX-3). So I decided to remove the back plate while using the laptop to see how much decrease in temps I would see.

Before removing back plate, normal operating temps (web surfing, no flash video) are around 41C CPU, 50C GPU. (Temps from RealTemp, shave 5C for HWMonitor temps on CPU). After removing back plate, temps are now 37C/46C. So -4C on CPU, -5C on GPU. (Not sure if TX-3 has cured by now though).

So I was thinking of removing the back plate every time I use it, and place it back after. Just wondering if there are any cons to this or any alternative. I'm thinking of just placing holes on the back plate, but I have zero knowledge in doing so.

 

Stuff can get up in it. And unless its overheating, there's no need to take it off. Unless you like extreme cooling

 

It's not really overheating, just concerned with my idle temps. Haven't tested it while gaming, but if shaves at least 10c while gaming, I'll keep on doing it.

I'm not too worried about stuff getting in, there aren't many insects in my room anyway. I can also regularly check for dust if it's open.

 

I cut a 40mm round hole directly over my fan and then installed a grill/dust filter. By doing this I dropped about 4C off my GPU and 2-3 off my CPU temps. Right now my overclocked GTX-260M is idling at 46 and the P8700 OC'd to 2.9GHz is idling at 36C I also used some Shin-Etsu compound. I'm very pleased with the results. The GPU tops out at ~79C in demanding games. Furmark still crushes it however.

So maybe you can find a way to leave your cover in place and still get cool air into the system.

 

What did you use to cut the hole? I have no tools, but maybe my grandpa has some stuff on his toolbox. Also, where I'm from, I don't think there are shops that sell MSI 1651 barebones back plate, so if I screw up it's gonna be difficult finding a back plate replacement.

 

I bought a spare cover from an Asus parts store so shop around and see if you can find one.

I used an adjustable hole cutter.



Looks like that. I put masking tape on both sides of the cover and drilled in slightly from both sides to meet in the middle for a smooth hole. I used a drill press.

There are probably many ways to cut a nice round hole in plastic.

 

so much for voiding a warranty, and reducing re-sale value to Zero.

 

Thanks balane, I'll try that once I find a spare back plate.

 

That's why you buy a spare back plate..

 

So much for reading. With a spare backplate installed it's as it shipped.

 

This dude knows what he's talking about.

 

Really? Please explain.

 

Is it a "clean room?"

Really, you should no better than that. Even if heat is the first enemy of computers, dust and dirt are a close second. If you need extra cooling (I'm not convinced anyone does given proper ventilation), get a cooler. You shouldn't need to take anything off a computer to have it operate at safe temperatures.

 

The OS stated that his machine is not overheating, just that he has a 'feeling' the unloaded/idle temps are too high. He apparently did not check with the manufacturer of this machine nor the specs sheets of his cpu and gpu either.

Certainly that is more than enough justification to expose the machine to dirt/dust and whatever..........

 

Gecko in.. Lappy kaput

 

Tried gaming today, and the temp difference is insane! Max temps I get now is 61C for CPU, 66 for GPU! Before doing this it would reach 77c/82c respectively. Unless I find a spare back plate to mod, this is the only thing I have for better cooling..

Eh.. Not really. I compared it to other machines with same specs, and my GPU temps are definitely higher than the norm.. GPU even reaches 60c while idle and plugged.. So it's not just "feeling".

Anyway, I think I'll keep on doing this while gaming, for everyday use I'll place the back plate on.

 

Uh, why? If you use a spare back plate to mod, resale value and warranty will not be affected, because you just have to swap out the original back plate..

 

what's the norm? What other people report and complain about or the manufacturers specs?

 

Have a friend who owns the same machine, his GPU temps are 46-50c idle and plugged. Mine is 55c-60c idle and plugged. Also, you can check the GT627 threads for their gaming temps. Saw a post there where a guy's temps while playing Crysis is 66C(CPU) and 72C(GPU), which is higher than my usual 77c and 82c.

 

Here's a nice one, just to give you some ideas.

Portables4Gamers Un Medion AKOYA X7811 aéré comme il faut

 

It was sarcasm. There is no possible way that it could affect resale value or the warranty.

 

Heh, sarcasm sometimes is hard to read on the interwebs

 

I know, I should have put some sort of flag, but his post was pretty ridiculous.

 

I tried it again with the back plate on and played a game. Max temps are 68c on CPU, 77 on GPU. Looks like the TX-3 thermal grease has finally settled. However, it's still a -7c,-11c advantage without a backplate. I really need to find a spare MS 1615 to mod, or I'll keep playing games without a back plate.

 

Correct me anyone if Im wrong here...but when you remove the backplate and/or mod it...cant that reduce the airflow to other components? Like, what if the chipset heatsink gets passively cooled by the air being sucked in...Im not saying they all do, but its a possibility right? So even though CPU and GPU temps may drop...could it not possibly be making other components hotter that you cant monitor temps of like chipset, RAM, and other components?

 

I don't know man, but I'm buying a laptop cooler so there is continuous airflow underneath.

 

Could that not at that point possibly create static?

 

Suffice it to say it's not a good idea; and certainly not something that should be recommended or duplicated.

Incidentally, this brings to mind where someone could have gotten the idea to invent that insect zapper thing. Not a lot of insects? It only takes one!

 

Which is kind of the core concept behind this whole thread.

Enjoy your mods.

 

taking the back off has the risk of exposing your internal componenets to more dangerous things

 

Well.. you could contribute your ideas if you want. You haven't suggested anything so far (on my first post I asked for alternatives). All you've done so far is to be snarky on this thread..

 

it's kind of hard to be constructive when the base assumptions in the thread are all supposition and apparently set in stone. The OP is looking for unconditional approval of his mod.

 

But have you tried suggesting? Still none.. I have accepted the consensus that what I'm doing is bad for my laptop (the removing the back plate part). I know it. So I go to the alternative, which is modding the back plate. It has been done before, a lot of times, on the forums. It would be nice if someone out there could suggest a good mod based on the GT627's layout that would promote good airflow and not ruin the laptop. So, what do you have in mind?

 

Going directly from the first post I can tell you this.

A.) Your temps before removing the plate were great, there is no need in making them lower. You will not gain anything out of it.

B.) Removing the backplate cons are obvious, you risk damaging the system easier by exposing the inside of the laptop. Be it from something getting into the case, or something as simple as electro static discharge.

C.) It's not common, but possible that in removing the backplate you mess up the natural airflow the machine was designed for. So while you may observe lower temperatures on certain components because they are the easiest to monitor and the ones of main concern to yourself. You could be raising the temperature of other important laptop components.

D.) Adding holes to the bottom plate is probably the best solution, its not hard, here is how I did it on the C90S a machine that did run hot because of its desktop based CPU.

Link -

Asus C90S "Vicious Mod"

 

I have one question. It is a little general in nature but depending on answer could affect my response. Are notebook "heat pipes" heat exchangers or just basically flat pieces of copper.

 

@ViciousXUSMC
I actually saw that post of yours before in the forums. That's what gave me the idea of modding my back plate. The only question now for me is how big the holes is desired for my mod, and on what part of the back plate. (My unit is an MSI GT627, which is the same body as the MSI 1651 barebones)

Back plate pic here:
http://i36.tinypic.com/fm075t.jpg

 

Actually heat pipes are a little more complicated than they appear. They have internals as well. Check this:

Heat pipe - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

Id put the holes right there in the open center area where there are existing vent slits. Hole size does not matter too much, for me I thought 9 big holes would work better or just as good as several small holes and be a lot easier to do. Then I lined it with a fine screen to prevent stuff from getting inside.

The mod helped with temps a lot for the C90S because the heatsink for the GPU is right under the new holes I made, and it worked much much better in conjunction with a cooling pad.

Again going back to what I said about natural airflow of a laptops cooling system, reducing the vacuum of the inside with more holes means that its possible to increase the temps of something else (in the C90S case probably not likely) but with a cooling pad pushing cool air into the whole system it worked out very well with no fear of problems.

 

Thanks! I do intend to use a cooler, I'm just looking for a locally available one that would match my laptop's component layout.

 

I am beyond the wiki article. That is why I asked. I know much about thermal dynamics as it relates to this. I have received conflicting answers. I would like an answer. Are notebook heat pipes active? Or are they not. Are they flat pieces of copper that rely on radiance. Are they heat sinks? Vs a true heat pipe that uses phase change? That is my question. I do not need a wiki link to "heat pipe", "Heat sink". Do notebook heat pipes have a coolant inside? I was told by XoticPC they do not. What is the truth.

 

If they wouldn't have, they would be called copper bars instead instead of pipes

 

Does it have a coolant in it? That was my question, it is what I do not know. Sorry if you feel insulted, I thought I layed my question out.

I am not a troll, only because I am sincere. I was in fact insulted by your response. I know about what you linked.

So how about an answer or back off if you do not know. Because then you become the Troll!

 

Thank you I tend to agree with your logic. I am only in doubt because of what I was told.

I guess the reason I asked was to get an understanding of the system. If you are doing a phase shift. My thoughts are cooling prior to the point of the "phase change" could actually be counter productive. On a radiant copper tubing that is nothing more than a heat sink extension. OK I get. But on a phase change the cooling prior to the phase shift would just retard the process prior to reaching the important/primary point.

I am not an expert on this but I do get the basic concept. Cooling after heat pipe has absorbed the heat only slows down the delivery to the critical point were the phase change happens. It to me potentially could be counter productive.

 

Your original question was:

I answered with a wiki link about heat pipes. And you answered with:

Your original post never mentioned thermal dynamics, phase changes, radiance, or whether or not you "know much" about the subject as your reply seems to suggest. In fact you OP does not suggest that you know much at all about how heat pipes function which is why I decided to link the wiki article. You're the one with insulting reply, although I'm actually not really insulted because I find it laughable that I get snapped at by someone I was genuinely trying to help out. Laterz.

 

kosti I am not a troll and have zero interest in making this anything. But you do not think my first post were I asked active or flat pieces of copper indicated nothing?

No interest in fighting but my first post said it all. "Active"/flat pieces of copper. The fact that you could not tell I knew what I was talking about is on you not me.

I have no interest on if you got or not. We take all as they are. I guess you calling me a troll is what gets me most. But not a big deal. And no insult taken.

I really am still looking for confirmation from someone who knows? Or has opened with say a set of side cutters.

I did lay out my concerns since your posts. Anyone have opinion? Am I barking up the wrong tree with concern about cooling a active "heat pipe" slowing the cooling performance.

I am asking. I do not have a degree but I have some common sense. Want to know others opinion as long as they consider.

 

I don't think it will matter. If you're actively cooling the part, then yes the heat pipe will transfer less heat, but part of the reason for that is that there is simply less heat to transfer, as you are "removing" the heat before the heat pipe can get to it. The usual configuration of parts is: hot item -> heat sink -> heat pipe -> radiator fins -> fan driven airflow to remove the heat from the system. If you're cooling the hot item or heat sink directly, you should be short-circuiting the chain and removing heat from the system before it gets to the heat sink.

 

I agree with this logic. Cooling before the phase change should not have a negative effect.

I am intrigued by G73Guy's question though...I honestly don't think that laptop heat pipes are actually heat pipes in the strictest sense...They appear to thin to actually have a active phase change medium inside...I could be wrong though.

@Kosti: Just because he didn't appreciate your asinine wikipedia link doesn't mean he's a troll. You didn't answer his question: are laptop heatpipes actually heatpipes in the strictest sense..

 

I witnessed last week a punctured Fujitsu heatpipe Some kid (~18-20y) had decided to remove the mesh under the laptop and struck a screwdriver (looking at the scratches) thru it, straight into the heatpipe. Made a nasty hole in one side and there was visible "liquid" marks around it. It was those flat types.

That trick messed with the cooling and eventually broke the motherboard. Daddy wasn't really happy when I showed the marks and explained what had apparently happened... I guess they were going have another kind of father-son discussion later, at least that it looked like

 

By the wikipedia article (not the strongest authority, I know, but reasonable for most things) they have flat heat pipes as thin as 0.5 mm(!). And don't forget, since we're dealing with vacuum pressures here, you don't really need a whole lot of fluid inside to convert and flow.