Replacing the thermal paste on CPU and graphic card core to Arctic Silver 5 (or any different paste)

Guide based on HP 8510 notebook.

If you are an owner of a different notebook than HP 8510, note that steps taken to disassemble the heatsink on CPU and graphic card will be different!

I DO NOT TAKE ANY responsibility for results and defects you might cause to your computer by following this guide.
Be aware that depending on your warranty and notebook this MIGHT VOID YOUR WARRANTY!!!
Please, take any care necessary and be advised that PATIANCE is the key here, otherwise there a possibility to damage something!!!

Difficulty level: medium, but only due to a risk of damaging components by being uncareful or impatient!

This guide will explain how to PROPERLY apply a thermal paste to your CPU.
The reason for this guide is pretty simple, I bought myself a set of Arctic Silver 5 with ArctiClean remover, as I found out that my high temperature were caused by improperly [too much] applied paste by HP engineers [too big word for them really].
At same stage before buying AS5 I had a look inside and actually removed a bit of old paste to lower the temps.

Equipment needed:
- philips screwdrivers - depending on your hardware you might also need hex or start screwdrivers.
- credit card / any stiff plastic card with clean 'sharp' edge / razor
- thermal paste
- old paste remover - anything based on Isopropanol is recommended. DO NOT USE Nail Polish Removers of any kind!
- lint free cleaning cloth and/or cotton budds, microfibre cloth, cleaning pads.
- a bit of desk area to disassemble the laptop and place components away so they would not disturb during the whole process.

Click pictures to see them in higher resolution.


Set I bought.

More information about it:
Arctic Silver 5 thermal paste http://www.arcticsilver.com/as5.htm
ArctiClean Cleaner http://www.arcticsilver.com/arcticlean.htm

PRECAUTIONS!!
From Arctic Silver guide:

"Technical Precautions
• While much safer than silver greases engineered for high electrical conductivity, Arctic Silver 5 thermal compound should be kept away from electrical traces, pins, and leads. Arctic Silver 5 is slightly capacitive and could cause problems if it bridged two close-proximity electrical paths.
• Never turn on a computer without a heatsink properly mounted on the CPU and thermal interface material between the CPU core and the heatsink. A modern high-performance CPU can be permanently damaged in less than 10 seconds without proper cooling.
• Arctic Silver 5 has no adhesive qualities and is considered grease. It will never dry or set and cannot be used to glue a heatsink to a CPU core. To permanently glue a heatsink to a CPU core that does not have any other attachment method, please use Arctic Silver Adhesive or Arctic Alumina Adhesive.
• We do not recommend using Arctic Silver 5 on the older slot type Intel Xeon processors with large multiple square inch CPU to heatsink interfaces. The huge contact area and large gaps between the processor and the heatsink require a thermal pad or thick mesh-reinforced paste. Arctic Silver 5 can be used on socket type Xeons without a problem.
Break-In Period
Due to the unique shape and sizes of the particles in Arctic Silver 5 conductive matrix, it will take a up to 200 hours and several thermal cycles to achieve maximum particle to particle thermal conduction and for the heatsink to CPU interface to reach maximum conductivity. (This period will be longer in a system without a fan on the heatsink or with a low speed fan on the heatsink.) On systems measuring actual internal core temperatures via the CPU's internal diode, the measured temperature will often drop 2C to 5C over this "break-in" period. This break-in will occur during the normal use of the computer as long as the computer is turned off from time to time and the interface is allowed to cool to room temperature. Once the break-in is complete, the computer can be left on if desired."

Ok. Lets start.

1. Getting access to components.

For HP8510 users please follow these posts
http://forum.notebookreview.com/showpost.php?p=3208951&postcount=1
http://forum.notebookreview.com/showpost.php?p=3258749&postcount=3
to open your machine.

2. Taking the keyboard off.

In this case you also need to take the keyboard off completely. To do it you need to unlock the touchpad and keyboard tapes from motherboard. Flip the keyboard upside down. Use a flat screwdriver to lift up black ‘catch’ on both sides by the small tape and pull it up.

Now flip the keyboard back as it is normally and using same method unlock the big tape and pull it out.

You should have something like this in front of you:


3. Unscrew the heatsink.

Note! GPU is on the top right corner, while CPU in bottom left corner of notebook. The core in the centre is a motherboard’s chipset! It is not being greased as it has a thermal pad [light blue].
You can start with GPU or CPU, it doesn’t really matter.
I start with GPU as it is at the end of the chain.

When you take a closer look, you will notice that there are numbers next to screws holding it. We need to disassemble two 3-4cm thin plates held by a screw each.
Picture below shows the GPU with one of the plates taken off. When you undo the screw just the plate will spring up, and you can pull it out towards the screw.



Time for the CPU. There is a V shape plate holded by two screws. It also secures the heatsink with the chipset on the motherboard. Undo the crews and right hand side will spring up. Slide it towards right.



4. Taking the heatsink off.

Now we need to take the heatsink off completly. Due to viscosity of thermal pastes it will sort of stick to it. GENTLY lift the end where GPU is until it doesnt stick there, and move/rotate the heatsink around CPU. It will make it easier to lif it up. SLOWLY and GENTLY start liftin more and more from right side. There are 4 cylinders alligning the heatsing in CPU area, two of them holding it from moving out in any direction so you need to lift upwards as well. In the same time SLOWLY pull whole heatsink to the right to take it out. The radiator on the left side should have enough clearance to enable you taking it out. DO NOT FORCE ANYTHING, try to manouver around the plastics if you have problems.

You should have something like this now:


[note the blue thermal pad for chipset – DO NOT remove it or clean with any type of alcohol!]

The amount of paste on my picture can be called too much, but what I had before I removed some could be called a spillage...
Time to clean out our cores and heatsink.

5. Cleaning heatsink

ArctiClean works extremely well and dissolves the paste so it is like a dirty fluid instead a paste/grease. Apply the cleaner in drops to the grease left on the heatsink. Wait a bit and clean it all of with the cloth, trying not to smudge it too much. If you will find a lot of grease I recommend using cotton buds at the start to easily collect big amounts. When it looks pretty clean apply one-two more drops and clean the area with lint free cloth. You can polish it quite nicely.






6. Cleaning cores

Follow the same procedure for cleaning the cores but BE GENTLE and more CAREFULL! They are very delicate components! DO NOT touch them with bare fingers or apply pressure to them.
I do it this way: first clean to get rid of as much as possible with cotton buds with cleaner on them, then with a lint free cloth moistened with the cleaner GENTLY clean it having wrapped the cloth around your fingertip. When the core is cleaned properly it will look like a MIRROR!





General clean with cotton buds.





Polished with lint free cloth. I could see myself in them

7. Purifying [optional, depending on things you have available]

If you have ArctiClean purifier, use it now, according to instruction at the back of the bottle on heatisink (where cores sit) and on all cores - CPU, GPU, chipset.


Note the difference between using and not using the purifier – see step 5.

8. Applying the paste to GPU

The GPU on 8510 has small silver plate around the core. It make it a bit more difficult to apply paste so you might consider taking it of but THIS IS NOT RECOMMENDED. All HD2600 for our model come with this on, factory mounted. If you wish to do it, not that screws have numbers. Undo them in this order. When putting it back on, do it in the reverse order.
Squeeze a bit [A VERY SMALL BIT ] of paste to the centre of the core. It should be the size of a match head or slightly smaller.




It all depend on the size of the core you are applying it to. Generally, the amount you will apply should cover the core in a thickness smaller than 0.25mm! The whole idea is to put a VERY THIN layer on the core!
Apply it with a flat stiff sharp edge like on a credit card or razor (the blunt edge of it is better). Try to spread it from the centre to the edges in one swift move. Cover all area and do two final strokes on the whole length levelling the paste. Try not to go over the edges.
If you feel like you need to practice, BY ALL MEANS DO! It is better than cleaning the core couple of times before we are finally happy. Try to practice on roughly the same size thing as the core you will be doing it to.




9. Applying the paste to CPU

Follow same procedure as for the GPU.
For comparison I added a picture with the tip of 3.5g tube of AS5 to show the actual amount I used. Little bits of paste around the middle ‘pile’ are leftovers from cleaning the tip.








All done now we need to put the heatsink on.

10. Putting the heatsink back on.

Slide in the radiator into its position, trying not to touch the cores with any part of the heatsink. You can’t put it all the way to the left yet. Align it with cores, using holes and GPU square as guidance. Put the heatsink down, sliding it into place, using U shaped slots around CPU as main guide. Make sure it fits perfectly and there should be no or not very much movement. Even with this little amount of paste the heatsink should ‘stick’ to cores.
Now put GPU plates back on, starting with no 2. Slide them in underneath the bend metal and align with screw fitting. Do not tight it up yet. Put the second plate back on.
Slide in the CPU V plate between the copper heatsink and heads holding it on the left from CPU. Put the screws back on, while pressing the end of the plate down very GENTLY around the chipset. Now tight all the screws but do not over tighten them. When they stop going it means they are not going to go any further.

Double check if everything is back on as it should be.

11. Assemble the machine back again.

Put the fan back on, then the keyboard.

Now turn the computer back on, and turn the temperature monitoring software. Check if your temperatures are ok, to make sure you did everything right. Although you shouldn’t be able to assemble the laptop correctly back on if you did something wrong, its better to double check that.

12. Conclusion and temperatures before and after.

Temperatures were obtained using Orthos.
As I am using RMClock to lower the voltage I included the temperatures with and without using it.
Due to a Break-In period that AS5 has I will update the graphs in a about a week time.

Update:
Seems like the break-in period is taking a bit longer since I haven't been using my computer much recently nor it wasnt exposed to high performance needing tasks.
After full 11 days the temperatures are as follows: without RMClock at full load 80C. With RMClock at full load 67C.
Hopefully I will update during the weekend from fresh XP and Vista, both 64 bit.






Before the guide – core voltage lowered by RMClock



Before the guide, without RMClock to lower the voltage.



After the guide – Idle after turning the computer on – core voltage lowered by RMClock



After the guide – running Orthos without RMClock to lower the voltage.



After the guide – running Orthos with core voltage lowered by RMClock

During writing this review, while working on battery, power saver profile in RMClock, my temperatures were oscillating in a range 44-46C.
I had Opera running 5-6 tabs, all programs in the tray that I always use, ACDSee for viewing pictures and was writing all that in Word.

I hope this will help some users

If mods feel this thread should be in a guides section, please feel free to move it or make it sticky.

ENJOY!

 

Hi.

Nice guide, were you not able to get access to the GDDR memory to AS5 that as well.

Regards

John.

 

This guide is awesome! I`m sure there are a lot of systems out there without AS5 and high temps desperately scream for this procedure!

 

Finally. Ive finished Have been editing the post for last 10 min to get it nice and tidy.

@Tinderbox (UK) I actually have accessed the mem chips on gfx but they are connected to the metal plate around the core with the thermal pads.
See the 4th picture. So I didnt want to play any more with it since I still have warranty I have to say that watching the repair guy doing things to my lappy was well spent time I guess I know it better than him now

@Eleron911,
Thanks I think your right... probably all laptop manufacturers apply the paste the same way... BIG blob. Squeeze. Done.

 

Great guide !! Can't belive the amount of paste put on at the factory ! yikes ! you should send the pics to the factory, what a mess .

 

Nice, im more curious about the GPU though. Can you stress it out and post up the results?

 

well done destiny.this is a good guide, and i think it should be stickied !

i never had any problems with my 8510p´s temps. somehow i come to think that they did apply a better thermal compound in my machine, or at least they did not use too much of it.

+1

 

Here you go flipfire

Ran 3DMark2006 for 15 minutes (full test) on high performance mode in RMClock.
First without overclocking, second overclocked by 28% core, memory -30% to 640 -780 from stock 500 - 600.

Unfortunately I uninstalled the Witcher, otherwise I would test it as I was basing some of my temps on it - at the time it was running around 42C max.


No O/C


O/C

 

Excellent work as always Destiny! Might try this myself later in the summer

 

wow your gpu temps are unbelievably cool. I know that its running off a seperate heat pipe, but i was expecting at least 40c since they still share the same heatsink

kudos to that. btw what were your GPU temps before AS5?

I ordered AS5 combo just yesterday for my old school compaq m2000. Im tempted to do it to my DV's but i dont wanna risk damaging anything and voiding warranty. My current temps are already good as it is

 

Nice guide, though I think I'll just stick the with stock stuff. In the other AS5 thread on here, people are stating you need to reapply every so often. I'm going to ask HP sometime if doing this will void your warranty. Again, very nice guide.

 

HP really went nuts on the stock thermal paste

Its actually a good idea because you need to clean the fans out every 6 months or so. You might aswell change the thermal paste while your at it. Something this invasive is definately not recommended by HP for the end user to do. It probably will void your warranty but they never really find out

 

Putting thermal paste on seems time consuming and a pain. That with my temperatures being okay and it voiding the warranty makes it a no go. However, I have no doubt that HP put on far too much thermal paste.

 

@flipfire, my GPU was going up to 40-42C when playing The Witcher at the same o/ced clocks as I tested with 3DMark.
Honestly I can see and hear the difference, since temps after booting up from sleep are silly like ie. now - 41C, and its not moving anywhere. The fan is hardly moving.

@jin07, whole procedure took me around 30 min, as I was talking pictures and being very precise and quite honestly -slow. Normally I would think 15-20 min is max.

I guess with our warranty - On-site next business day, how HP can find out? the serviceman won't say a word I think, and you are not going to tell HP that you did it lol. In my opinion they either have to design notebook so you can clean out fans more easily or say that it wouldn't void the warranty. Same with changing the paste. Although I would add that using a silver based paste (like AS5) is not reccomended for unexperienced users as you might bridge something by accident.

 

I only got the standard 3 year warranty. Didn't get on-site support, though I wish I did. I may upgrade sometime down the line. I confirmed with HP through their chat that cleaning the fans will not void the warranty. At least that's what the guy I was chatting with told me.

 

When I had the repair guy over doing some things long time ago he said the same. He even suggested this to me, when he found so much dust there.

 

Awesome guide. I might try it out sometime. By the way, why is applying too much paste bad?

 

too much paste can do more harm than good.

You just wanna even out the contact patch between the heatsink and cpu so theres no gaps or micro pockets in the middle

When you reseat the heatsink, some of the excess paste just runs to the corners

 

Even though the pastes are high thermo conductive, it will obviously going to take much longer to go through a thick layer than through very thin.

 

Ahhh.. Thanks. Answer was simpler than I thought.

 

Great guide. I love this HP Notebook. In fact I am thinking of grabbing this model again and switching out parts from my current Dell 1330. Then sell the 1330 at a reduced price.

 

Again? Lol

 

I used Artic Ceramique, it was very sticky and hard to work with. I couldn't get the thin layer, just squirted some on top of cpu. It works... I think...how do I know I did it right?

 

You should't see the temperature rise above what you had before new paste was applied. That is first thing. Secondly your temps should actually drop

 

Great, great guide. I'll have a poke in my T61p when it arrives. I'll have to find the AS5 first. Not sure if they even have it here.

By the way, what alternatives can I use instead of lint-free cloths? How good are cotton buds to completely clean it? I have a cloth for my glasses, but I'll need to use that.

Come on, Mods, this guide definitely deserves a sticky.

 

You don't need that much of the linth free cloth. A 1cm2 will be enough, I used my photo lens cleaning cloth as it is just polishing really with the cleaning mixture. I suggest you gt rid of as much as you can with cotton budds and do the finishing with the glasses cloth corner

 

I definitely second this, take off the big globs using a q-tip wetted with high purity isopropyl alcohol (99.9% purity, 500 ml bottle, can be had for about $5 from your local drugstore, ask for it since it's behind the counter. Plus it's quite a bit cheaper than the professional stuff which would work at most, marginally better). Try to use something that can grab a lot since the manufacturers put waaaaay to much grease on, (on 3 little chips about 1cm squared total area combined, they put probably enough for the entire laptop, ie. the NB, CPU and GPU). Then once it's relatively clean, try to get a good clean, lint free cloth that you can use to polish off your components. Something like a glasses cleaning cloth can work well. Then reapply your grease, be it AS5 or the less commonly known but superior (about 1-2 degrees C cooler, but more expensive) Shin Etsu. Since we're only talking about laptops, Shin Etsu is closely followed by AS5 although using peltier cooling solutions other greases work better (I'll try to find the comparison).
http://www.techwarelabs.com/reviews/cooling/thermal_paste/

 

Destiny: How are your temps after the Break-in period? Also, random spelling mistake, you spelled break-in wrong in the conclusion.

 

Thanks jin07!
I will try to update this today, Im still in the middle of moving onto 64 bit dual boot, just need to finish with XP now, and tweak both systems up.
But I will update from 32 bits later in the evening, with 64 bits to follow probably during the weekend.

 

I have posted new temps after 11 days. Since I havent used the machine much I believe it might still be in the break-in period. I will update again during the weekend unless something unexpected will thwart my plans.

 

Roughly how much cooler did AS5 achieve for your notebook?

 

I wouldn't say it was just AS5, but also removing the excess of normal paste. But on average that is around 6-8C drop Im happy definately worth it

 

my notebook is overheating
though the fan seems to be operating normally
core temps are through the roof
should i even bother changing the paste with AS5 and removing the dust or just return the notebook?
(notebook model in sig)

 

Well if you have an option to return the notebook then I'm guessing it is new and still under warranty? If that is the case then don't apply AS5 as you might void your warranty by doing so.

Just curious, what are the temps?

 

Make a post in the Cooling central and I'll see what we could do for you.



@Destiny...I am annoyed with myself that I didnt see this guide earlier. This is definitely one to go into the cooling central. rep for you.

 

Try cleaning out the dust. If you've never done it, you might be surprised at how much dust may be blocking the air vent. Check out the link in my thread for help.

 

Thanks Johnny T! I said in my first post to make it a sticky if users will find it useful so maybe somebody could do it?

 

i posted my temps in Cooling Central