Title kinda says it all...
I'm thinking about a new monster gaming laptop system when I return from my current military deployment. With my typical tech-love mentality, I promptly max out as much as I can afford on graphics and CPU and everything else - including dropping a projected 32G of RAM in there.
But, then, I've heard for a primary gaming machine, this could be overkill (and maybe I could spend that money on a rediculous processor instead!)
So, what do I really need for gaming, RAM-wise? I know in general more is better - but what really will 32 get me that, say, 12 or 16 won't?
(One last thought - yes, I know, I could just order it with min RAM and upgrade myself - it IS cheaper, but I've found it not enough cheaper to want to mess with, so I'll be getting all my RAM upfront, as it were...)
(The specs of my projected system weren't posted here to save space, but if it matters to anyone, I'd be happy to post and get feedback...)
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HopelesslyFaithful Notebook Virtuoso
depends but win7 8GB is a safe starting point. 12-16GB is more than enough....you wont be able to use that unless you use ramdisk or have like 70 webpage tabs open at once like me. I use a lot because of that.
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You NEED 4GB, everything over is a bonus
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For gaming, the picture is very different. As Cloudfire says, there are no games out there that will use more than 4GB except when there is a memory leaking bug. If you want to be future proof, 8GB should be more than sufficient for the next few years (besides, this is the starting point for most modern laptops). If you want to be future proof and you want to game and run a whole lot of stuff in the background, get 16GB. More than that does not make sense -- by the time games and background applications can use that much, you will need a new laptop in any case (and it will come with DDR4). -
The minimum Ram you require to run the games which are developed uptil 2012 is 4GB. Ram is basically the temporary storage device that is used to store the processes carry on by the processor and 4GB or more is enough to carry out the game frame rate processes.
Let me clarify you two things:
1) Frame rate, whether the game runs smooth and the screen doesn't delays while moving onto another shot.
2) The graphics of the game, the contrast level, the finishing of icons in the game.
Option number 1 depends totally on RAM and option number 2 totally depends on your graphic card. So, first decide what is the problem you want to get through then apply the remedy for it as told. -
Frame rate is not dependent on speed or size of system RAM at all, well just as long as you have enough. It would make sense to get 8GB because it's pretty inexpensive, it's "future-proof", and you don't have to be as cognizant about freeing up resources before you play a game. 4GB should be fine in most cases, but 8GB makes the most sense.
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Sent from my New iPad using Tapatalk HD -
HopelesslyFaithful Notebook Virtuoso
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tilleroftheearth Wisdom listens quietly...
These posts always come up and (mostly) the same misinformation is given by the same people.
RAM for gaming has been 'proven' since 2010 that with Win7x64 8GB is the minimum needed to get the maximum performance. And with the low, low prices of DDR3 modules, it is a waste to run with anything less (more, is always welcome according to how deep your pocket ($$$) goes).
See:
Memory Upgrade: Is It Time To Add More RAM? : Introduction
The two things you have to note is that a cpu does all it's work (internally) and in the RAM and the GPU can draw additional RAM from the main system memory. These two points together is what can make an otherwise identical system perform much more smoothly with higher capacity RAM vs. one that is starved for memory (even if/when the task manager shows only ~2GB of RAM is being used...).
My experience has been that RAM capacity should be matched to the platform and O/S it is used on. Since 2009 all my systems have had 8GB RAM as their starting points (no gaming; just productivity...).
Now, in the last jump to 2013 with an IB platform and Windows 7 x64 (Professional and above) I can see/feel how 16GB is the minimum and 32GB is easily handled by the IB+O/S combination (on a desktop 64GB+ also feels good on this combination...).
Specifically to gaming: although in most games the maximum FPS will not increase significantly with more RAM; what will happen is that the minimum FPS will be significantly improved - this is what you will 'feel' with more RAM (and not a better benchmark 'score').
With all this said about the benefits of maxing out the RAM your new system can physically support there are 3 important things to keep in mind for a gaming notebook:
1) The CPU must be quadcore and it must be at or near the top of the current platform range you're considering.
2) The GPU must also be at or near the top of the current offerings.
3) The storage subsystem should also be optimally configured: SSD (O/S, programs and games) + HDD (data, data, data).
With the above three points addressed properly and optimally - dropping 16GB or more of RAM in the system will make it a very balanced machine (and not only for gaming).
4GB RAM was fine for XP (32bit) systems back in 2007 - today's Win7x64 O/S and the hardware platforms available really need more than 8GB RAM to really fly. Contrary to what Task Manager might suggest (and especially when TM is checked on those same, under powered RAM systems too).
If, like me, you value a balanced system - go ahead and order with as much RAM as you can afford and physically install in any current platform running Win7x64. And, if you're going for more than 16GB - remember you need Professional and higher to take advantage of the extra RAM in Win7.
Hope this helped.
Good luck. -
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you 'NEED'* 4GB of ram to game comfortably.
anyone else saying you need more is one of those people that run metric ****loads in the background while gaming. Stuff such as torrent clients, media players, their browser(seriously...the biggest unknown user of ram on PCs today), anti-virus programs, vnc clients, malware, etc.
anyone saying win7 takes 2GB by itself has no clue what they are talking about. They don't realize they have programs running in the background using up ram.
*by 'NEED', i mean thats what you should aim for. you could conceivably get away with less, but there may or may not be some games that start choking below that.
EDIT: oh...there's one case I totally forgot about. When you buy OEM PCs, you generally get alot of malware. I will always recommend reinstalling windows from scratch and then only installing the absolute minimum drivers needed to run the features you need/want. OEM software is generally regarded as resource hogging ****.
EDIT2: but ya...if you can afford a gaming machine....you can afford to buy at least 2x4GB sodimms -
Thanks, that was VERY helpful... I think I have a decent system specced out....
data: 750gb (w/ 8GB SSD Memory) Seagate XT 7200RPM NCQ Hybrid
So, if I have chosen well, seems like I could benefit from 16. Also seems like the feedback is 32 is a little silly - not saying I'm not above buying it just because, but trying to spend my money where it'll do some good! -
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I went for 32GB because of a few reasons. Even WITHOUT running any VM's, at work I would regularly run out of RAM with 8GB. 16GB is a lot more roomy but I still get a bit tight with a few VM's open. 32GB leaves me a lot of breathing room
I can assign 8-10GB of RAM to VM's and not even take a hit really. I use this laptop as my main machine at work, and so I need for it to be able to handle everything I throw at it. Another reason is that RAM is super cheap.
For games alone, 32GB is definitely overkill but I would say go with 16GB these days as a minimum on a new system. It's too cheap to not get 16GB. -
Nowadays, you're gonna want to have 8. It's not that you "need" more ram because you're gonna utilize it, it's that you'll need that much to prevent bottleneck in games. BF3 is one of the games that will run terrible if you have 4 gigs of ram. I don't know any other games because having 4 gigs of ram is SO 2010.
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but yes, VMs require exceptional amount of memory. -
tilleroftheearth Wisdom listens quietly...
Very decent specs! (Curious what the monitor resolution is)?
The only thing I would be looking at seriously to change is the M4. Not that it is not a good SSD - but there are obviously faster models available now (especially useful in a system with specs like yours to truly make the system as 'balanced' as possible).
I would be looking at either an Intel 520 Series (240 or 480GB) SSD or a Sandisk Extreme SSD (240GB or 480GB).
Is 32GB RAM 'silly' in this configuration? Sure, if it is only used for gaming.
But considering that maxing out the RAM is the only thing that is holding back this platform/setup - I would go for it (from day 1 and not a year or two down the road... when better systems will already be clobbering this system, performance-wise).
For less than 10% of the price of this system (my guess) 32GB RAM will allow you to experience Win7 x64 Pro (or above) and your new IB platform how it was meant to be used.
See:
Corsair Vengeance 16GB DDR3 1600MHz SODIMM Kit (2 x 8GB) at Memory Express
So, what version of Windows x64 is offered with that setup, and, how much $$$ is it to upgrade from 4>8>16>32GB RAM via the manufacturer? -
tilleroftheearth said many true things. Especially about ame people tell same things over years
But also he said that for only gaming 8GB is enough. At least I think I read this in his first post.
What I say is:
If you leave all bloatware ON the SSD then buy 16GB. I would tell you about 12GB but it is stupid to buy only 3 sticks. It should be either 2 or 4 sticks.
If you reinstall the System to delete bloatware then I would buy 8GB of 1866 RAM. From aftermarket. Because price difference on 1866 RAM IS big enough with messing with it.
Seriously. If you buy GTX680 then you most likely gonna have 2GB of graphic memory in it. And all RAM you gonna need is 8GB.
If I were you I would consider between 8GB of 1866 and 16GB of 1600 RAM. But I would do i aftermarket.
P.S. And yeah. Do NOT buy 2x8Gb Corsair 1600. It has 10-10-10 latencies. Better buy 4x4GB Corsair if you decide for 1600 and if you gonna have 4 slots. It is 9-9-9. -
Having 16GB of RAM is like having a 500hp car so you can imagine where anymore than that will put you. Oh it may feel great to have that much, but how many people actually need it, or will ever use it?
On the other hand, it's not like having an excessive amount will harm anythings so who am I to suggest otherwise. -
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First thing you want in a gaming system is a min of 4gb. 8Gb is the sweet spot . second thing is dual channel. after that start looking into lower CL's.
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12GB is optimal. (8GB+4GB sticks)
4GB is just nice.
YMMV. Buy according to your needs. -
tilleroftheearth Wisdom listens quietly...
Horsepower - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
This is actually a good analogy for our RAM discussion here:
Hooking up an IB i7 3820QM cpu and state of the art SSD and gpu with less than 16GB RAM is like making an athlete run/bike/swim for hours - but limiting how much oxygen he/she is allowed to breathe during their run.
Giving that same platform 32GB RAM is the most sensible thing to do for around 5% or ~$110 more... it will not limit or hinder the hardware in any way shape or form - and, given Windows 7 Professional and above - the O/S will not be limited by an artificial RAM restriction either.
This is the very definition of a balanced system and why I recommend it so fully. Even in 2009 when the performance levels of the platforms available was much lower and the prices of DDR2 RAM was much, much higher ($400 for 8GB RAM) - maxing out the RAM allowed even those systems to really 'breathe' and give back as much as they possibly could.
So jeffreyac, do you want an 'oxygen/ram starved' system/platform or do you want a system that while many say is overkill (hardware-wise) is well within your budget and will really set you up to enjoy the system you choose today for as long as you want it too?
Some may also say that you could easily buy the RAM next year too - but while strictly true - you have then spent part of your next budget's system in my eyes - without the benefits of using it for the last year and without taking into account how selling the current system as-is and buying a new system would affect your overall performance either. (Yeah, things never stay the same...).
For myself, continously (yearly) replacing a system is not worthwhile - too much testing, validation and tweaking needed (sometimes more than two weeks worth) to ensure there are no glitches vs. my previous stable build). This is where a ~$100 'upgrade' at the time of purchase makes sense: it gives me the luxury of allowing me to decide when to upgrade (and not needing to upgrade or re-evalute my platform because of some arbitrary limit I imposed on my system).
Back to 'strickly' gaming: sure over 8GB of RAM is 'overkill'. I'll be the first to admit it.
But then, isn't gaming on a notebook overkill ($$$$) anyway?
(Spend the extra $100)!!!
I'm sure in the next 3 to 5 years, you'll find something other than gaming to do on your system, right?
Good luck. -
Heh, I started running 8GB in July 2008.
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It was a Core 2 Quad Q6600 on a P35 or P45 chipset. The last time I had a 'current' laptop was in the Core Duo days (not core 2).
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All I was saying is I had a big gap where I had no laptop (or only company provided crappy ones) between the time when I had the Core Duo Inspiron E1705/9400 and this laptop.
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4-8gb. You can easily run games with 4 but if you want to multitask while playing games then you may want to get 8gb. Ram is pretty cheap... but anything over 8gb is a waste unless you need a RAMdrive for some reason.
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Bottom line, if you're going to be gaming, get 8... and really, "So, how much RAM does a gamer need?" ... as much as he/she can afford and/or their system will accommodate.
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I was using 4 GB with Windows 7, then upped to 6 GB, which I'd say is minimum. 4 GB gets used up pretty quickly in today's OS's.
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Tinderbox (UK) BAKED BEAN KING
If you get low memory warning give this app a go it worked for me, I was playing Crysis and it has a memory leak and with 6GB i was getting low memory warning and dropping to window mode, I installed Minimem and added loads of apps and the crysis.exe and no more low mem warning
Kerkia | Minimem description
John. -
Funny you should mention the SSD - I had looked at the Intel 520, just as you said, but went with the Crucial as all I knew is it was larger. I couldn't figure out why it'd be cheaper AND a larger drive - but if it's a little slower, that would explain it! I'll probably take your advice and go with the Intel instead!
I see your point on the RAM vs cost issue, too - I have to admit I've been warring with myself; part of me is trying to shave off what I feel I can live without to snip the cost a bit, but the other part points out that if I'm already dropping this much on a laptop, it'd be silly to try to save a few percent of the total and end up not completely happy with something as a result.
What sort of brought the issue to the front was the current sale Sager has - 16GB is free, and 32GB is a $250 upgrade from there - so, yeah, less than 10% of the total cost, you're exactly right! Of course, the funny thing is I most likely won't actually be buying this until I return home, which won't be for a few months - odds are, there will be a different sale on then anyway!
I'd elected to go with Windows Pro Premium (64bit) so I will be able to use any extra RAM I might shove in there... There is a cheap upgrade to Win 8 that comes as part of the package, but not sure I'm enamored with 8 yet. (Come to think of it, as I haven't picked up a new computer in a while, I don't even have anything currently running 7!)
For those who are curious, highlights of the projected system specs are:
Sager NP9170 - Gaming Laptop (Clevo P170EM)
- 17.3" Sager FHD 16:9 "Glare Type" Super Clear Ultra Bright LED Glossy Screen w/ 90% NTSC Color Gamut (1920x1080) (SKU - S1R602)
- Sager - 3rd Generation Intel® Ivy Bridge Core i7-3820QM (2.7GHz - 3.7GHz, 8MB Intel® Smart Cache, 45W Max TDP) (SKU - S2R203)
- - IC Diamond Thermal Compound - CPU + GPU
- nVidia GeForce GTX 680M 4,096MB PCI-Express GDDR5 DX11 with Optimus Technology [User Upgradeable] (SKU - S3R406)
- COPPER COOLING UPGRADE - Extra Cooling Copper Heatsinks Applied to the Heatsink/Heatpipes (XPC Service)
- SALE! - 32GB - DDR3 1600MHz Dual Channel Memory (4 SODIMMS) (Windows 7 Pro OS Required) (SKU - S4T844P)
- 240gb Intel 520 Series Solid State Drive (SSD2 Serial-ATA III) (SKU - S5R070)
- 750gb (w/ 8GB SSD Memory) Seagate XT 7200RPM NCQ Hybrid (Serial-ATA III 600 - 32MB Cache) (SKU - S5R423)
- 6x Blu-Ray Read/8X DVDRW Super Multi Combo Drive - Special! (SKU - S7P557)
- Sager - Bigfoot Networks Killer Wireless-N 1103 (3x3) (SKU - S8R056)
- Chiclet Style Backlit Keyboard (adds 4-7 business days) - BACK-ORDER
- ~Windows 7 Professional Premium 64-Bit (64&32-Bit CD Included) + MS Office Starter 2010 -[ Upgrade to Windows 8 Pro for $14.99 (Directly through Microsoft) ]
- Sager 3 Year Parts & LIFETIME Ltd Labor Warranty w/ Lifetime 24/7 DOMESTIC Toll Free Customer Support - Special! (SKU - S9P211) -
95% of people who advised smth in this thread would never do that... at least for their own money. But oh well... it's not my money too
If Crucial M4 is not so much slower. I doubt you feel the difference at all. -
tilleroftheearth Wisdom listens quietly...
Yeah, M4 definitely feels slow in O/S use vs. Intel 520 (256GB vs. 240GB, respectively). The 512GB M4 model is even slower than the 256GB version.
As for $250 'upgrade' to go to 32GB - sure, that looks horrendous. But if you think that you're getting 32GB RAM for $250 and it's covered by the original manufacturer's warranty (how important is that to you?), then it seems like a better deal.
See:
Corsair Vengeance 8GB DDR3 1600MHz SODIMM at Memory Express
For comparision; you would only save around $30 (see link) and I'm sure the RAM that is included is better (timings/etc.) than the Corsair offered above.
Yes; I would jump on this RAM upgrade from the manufacturer. -
But he said that 16GB is free so he kinda pays 250$ that money only for adding 16Gb... so it is 250$ versus 110$
Besides 1 week ago I bought 2 of these for 40$ each with 4$ promo code and 10$ rebate.
And he will not have lifetime warranty for RAM! However I don't get what Sager's LIFETIME Limited Labor Warranty* means
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tilleroftheearth Wisdom listens quietly...
James,
you're missing the point: I mean system 'lifetime' - not mine (or OP's).
As for getting the cheap RAM cheaper - I believe it.
My point stands: at this point in time I would still opt for this 'upgrade' as it is totally in line with reality and it would almost certainly ensure better quality RAM (from the manufacturer).
You are concerned with saving $75 off of a top flight setup to get lower quality RAM - deal with mail in rebates - and waste time/wait for this sale again.
I am concerned about getting a fair deal (doesn't have to be the best deal) for top flight parts all delivered in a working state and giving me the performance the setup is capable of from day one.
I can understand about saving money. Your way may eventually get you to the same system (a few weeks/months of scouring the web).
The saying 'you get what you pay for' also includes getting those things in a timely manner too and this is what my position is usually about. -
tilleroftheearth,
you are missing the point: there is no need to wait any deal or messing with promo codes. And no additional time. And if he wants to spend extra money - OK! I have already understood that people who want to spend money on a laptop will spend as much as they can no matter what someone advices
But I am saying what I am saying because it is just like that. It is saving 140$ not 80 on smth which gives nothing for gaming.
It is double miss: bigger price for same amount of RAM and paying for extra RAM at all.
As for better memory from thу manufacturer I have no idea of what RAM will be there but OEM doesn't mean better. Samsung SSD deives on Alienware and Dell with missing OEM firmware update proves it. -
I would NOT buy the RAM from Sager (infact I bought my system with no RAM) as it is cheaper to buy it aftermarket, period. -
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The Sager RAM is Samsung CAS 11. Good quality stuff.
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Also, the Intel drive is not appreciably faster than the Crucial drive for regular use, and TRIM does not seem to work on it (which I would consider a deal breaker). I would just buy a SSD aftermarket for cheaper (find a good deal and you can get a 240/256gb one for $150-$170) and stick the stock 500gb HDD you get into an external enclosure for backup storage.
And 32gb of RAM is useless for gaming so I would just skip that altogether. I would also get the i7-3720qm instead of the i7-3820qm since the latter is a $190 upgrade for like 1% performance, which is a horrible deal.
Cut the upgrades you don't need and you can save like $400-500. -
I agree with those have said that what you need is 4 GB. These days, it's usually pretty cheap to go from 4 GB to 6 GB or 8 GB, so it usually makes sense to do so. With 8 GB, assuming your primary purpose is gaming, you'll always have plenty of RAM.
If you're planning to buy a laptop that comes with 16 GB by default, that's fine, but it's foolish to spend anything to upgrade beyond that. You'll be lucky to use half of the 16 GB within the next year, so spending more on 32 GB is just throwing around Benjamins. -
People trust me, The guy who HAS money which he ALREADY PLANNED to spend on a laptop he DESIRED will ALWAYS PAY THIS OR EVEN MORE NO MATTER OF WHAT WE WILL TELL HIM.
I have already wrote same things in similar threads but I found that it is impossible to prove that he doesn't need so. They all will ignore you once you say that he spend for nothing.
P.S. @Krane. I understood what you told about tilleroftheearth but what you told about me I got till the pragamatic but not further. Language barrier I guess, sorry. -
Why do people try to come up with these stupid analogies that don't help their case? -
Why is this even being discussed? Less than $40 gets you 8GB RAM. Close to $30 on sale even. If you can afford a "gaming" laptop you can afford $30-$40 for 8GB RAM.
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The relationship was based on a system; and the capacity of ALL it's parts. Even so, I have yet to see the results of a single test where the speed made any significant difference. Now try this one, a chain is only as strong as it's weakest link. -
And if you want to use your example. If I can buy a box of 20 pencils for $1 or 40 pencils for $1.40, I will buy the box of 40 pencils. It's not just about relative cost but total cost. If a box of 20 pencils cost $1000 and a box of 40 pencils cost $1400, well I'll stick with the 20 pencils. But to make it more relative, if you were a teacher that gave out a pencil to their students every day and the kids returned them every day, and you had 18 students, sometimes you might have 24, sure you could have them swap pencils, but for $0.40 difference why wouldn't I buy the box of 40 to make sure the occasional time I need them I have them and not reduce productivity. -
Good job Syberia. I'd rep you but I'm all out. Will do later when I get some more!
So, how much RAM does a gamer need?
Discussion in 'Hardware Components and Aftermarket Upgrades' started by jeffreyac, Aug 26, 2012.