Upgraded CPU - now laptop won't work?

I have an Acer 3820tg, which came with an i3-370m. I recently bought an i7-620m off of eBay. After receiving it, I followed a .pdf guide I downloaded here and followed it exactly. It seemed to go smoothly. However, when I tried turning it on, the screen stayed blank. I then took apart the laptop and put it together again. This time, however, it would not turn on. The blue power light would blink once every few seconds, but not display or anything. The first time I heard the fans turning on, but not this time. I've also put the i3 back in, but to the same result.

Does anyone know what's wrong?

Thanks.

 

Did you remember to use thermal paste or a thermal pad?

 

Did You remember to turn the CPU lock on the CPU socket? Did You connect the laptop's fan to the motherboard?

 

I removed the old thermal paste and put MX4 on the new processor/heatsink.

I definitely did both of those.

 

It's always so hard to diagnose these things from a distance, especially as there's so many different things that could go wrong. Um, you did remember to unplug it and remove the battery before you started, right? Other than that... any chance of ESD (electrostatic discharge)?

 

Try cleaning the bottom of Your new CPU. Maybe there's a fingerprint (or something) which may short circuit some of the CPU pins, which prevents the laptop from booting up. You may also try to disconnect the laptop from any power source and then press the power button for approx. 30s. This will discharge any possible electrostatic current on the motherboard. Have You updated the BIOS to the latest one?

 

I did remove the battery and unplug it. I don't think there could be any ESD as I did it on a table the entire time.

I tried my old CPU, but had the same issue. This led me to rule out the CPU itself being the issue. I tried discharging the current but that didn't work either.

What's weird is that I can't find out what this slow blink every few seconds means. I was kind of expecting it to be documented somewhere, unless it's not intended when something is wrong.

 

Try reseating RAM modules and the GPU (if it's not soldered to the MoBo, of course). You can also try to boot with only one RAM module present.

 

With the battery removed and AC adapter unplugged, hold down the power button for 30 seconds.

Reseat RAM/HDD

Replace with known good RAM

You could have also bricked the motherboard during install.

 

I've tried reseating the RAM and HDD to no avail.

I do have 8gb of RAM coming, so I can try that, but I'd be surprised if the RAM went bad during installation.

It'd be pretty bad if the motherboard went back during the install. I can't see what went wrong, so it must be quite fragile if that's the case.

 

Hrm well I did a LGB and a LCD module replacement on a 3810TZ (similar to yours) and it was very smooth, though I can't stand Acer's plastic hinge caps, if you aren't careful they break quicker than a Sony laptop and a breezy day.

In any case it looks like it is pointing to a defective motherboard. Is it still under manufacturer warranty? I would put the old CPU back and RMA it to Acer.

 

You should also do a power drain before working inside your system... there is always some charge left in the mobo which can cause defects.

Don't tell me you didn't use any ESD-protection? A CPU is a highly sensitive component!

Simply sitting at a table won't prevent your parts from ESD damage... You can even produce a difference of potential between your hand and the systm by scratching your head...

Maybe you fried the mobo, but it's also possible that you killed your old and your new CPU.

 

Now that's a ridiculous comparison... Sony-best built notebook I ever had or used after Lenovo T.

Back to the subject: Most of it has already been said, but detach and reattach the RAM and GPU if not soldered. As far as I remember from my Fujitsu, such blinking indicated problem with the CPU though - I did bend a pin by the installation. Try switching it on without any HDD!

 

Although I agree with draining the machine (holding the power button for ~5 seconds), Ive installed upward of 200 CPUs without ESD protection. As long as you dont touch the contacts while rubbing your feel across the carpet, you're fine.

 

Yes, of course... it's possible to exchange CPUs without ESD protection... but I would never advise anyone to do so.

It's such a sensitive part and it's just too easy to destroy anything without being able to notice it.


...and it's not only the CPU which can be damaged of course.

 

I don't think you can go across CPUs. I mean, I upgraded my i7 740qm to the
i7 940xm. I think you can only upgrade within the class of cpu. For example,
i7 620--i7 720--i7 840--i7 920--i7 940. The problem your having is probably :

1. The lappy restricted the logicboard firmware to specific CPUs.
2. There is not enough power for the i7.
3. The logicboard requires the graphics capabilities of the FCLGA 1156 Socket chips.

 

Read more carefully!:

There is obviously something wrong with the machine and not with the new CPU even if caused by it or more precisely by the upgrade process.

 

The i7-620/640 and the i7-720/740/820/840/920/940 are in different classes. The i7-720/740/820/840/920/940 are quad-core Clarksfield CPUs; the i7-620/640 is an Arrandale dual-core, like the i3 and i5 mobile CPUs (FCLGA 1156 Socket is a _desktop_ socket, not a mobile; the mobiles all use the same socket) and thus has an integrated GPU like the original i3. Intel was admittedly a little confusing with its naming scheme here.

 

you could also have more info, the bios on the acer 3820tg do support the said chip

 

I tried no HDD, no go.

I think I will end up RMAing unfortunately.

Does anyone know if all parts have to be stock? I can put the i3 back but I also have a 120gb SSD. I gave the stock 500gb HDD to my uncle, but can get it for the RMA if need be. (Unfortunately it is being used as an OS drive currently)

 

I would make sure everything is as stock as possible, lest they try and claim you damaged the motherboard when you swapped hard drives (the static theory would lend itself to that). They may also check serial numbers of your internals.

 

Replacing the CPU is something that voids the warranty in most brands. Was there any "Warranty void if removed!" sticker around?


--

 

That depends very much on the brand/manufacturer! Apple for example do not allow ANY hardware change! They say that even RAM or HDD replacement voids warranty!! Absolutely radical!
Sony on the other hand is the opposite! (yahoo!)

But I would say replacing CPU voids the warranty by all, so if you can - make it look as if it was never touched! If putting back the original HDD is complicated - then just write to Acer "anonymously" to ask whether replacing the HDD voids the Warranty. If they put it written that it doesn't - you should be ok, unless they claim that you have damaged the MB by replacing the HDD, which of course is not covered by the Warranty.

 

Unauthorized Changes To Hardware Void Warranty

Adding RAM/HDD will not void your warranty. Only if done improperly and you break something will it void the warranty.

 

OK, was wrong informed then. Thanks for the input!

 

It will still vary by the company, and sometimes even by the model/line. For example, changing a CPU will not usually void a Sager warranty (well, unless you mess it up). Nor will changing a CPU in a Dell business computer or HP business computer normally void the warranty (of course, you also usually pay more for those warranties in the first place...).

 

Yes, nor by Sony.

So I would still ask Acer for more info on that matter and try to give them as "clean" from upgrades machine as possible.

 

Some ESD damage is not noticeable and can simply shorten the life of a chip as opposed to killing it outright.

 

In the U.S., I believe the Magnussen-Moss Warranty Act states that unless a hardware change or modification is the cause of the failure, they must still honor the warranty. So while they can still try to deny you service for replacing the RAM or hard drive, you can at least take them to court and waste more money than it would cost to fix the Macbook yourself to prove a point.

 

Start taking the laptop apart again following the disassembly manual that you have. I had a similar experience where the laptop would not power on after I replaced the CPU with a better one (I was very disappointed for a couple days and I accidentally touched a USB/Audio board with the tip of a small screwdriver and I noticed a really small spark while disassembling it the first time). I assumed that's the reason why it would not start in the first place. But I decided to try it again before I buy the replacement USB/Audio board.

Don't assume it's a fast job... it just needs your full attention. Start clean and this has to be accomplished under daylight if the laptop is relatively small judging by the size of the screen and weight. There's nothing wrong with your laptop, pay attention to those tape like connectors and release tabs, make sure they're fully inserted and lined up and not under any kind of pressure. If you know that processor is known to work inside your laptop then start with your upgrade, the i7 processor, this is what you want inside.

One important step when you have the laptop disassembled down to the motherboard, locate and disconnect the backup CMOS battery. I missed this step the first time. I got it right the 2nd time.

 

What ever you do, Don't send that SSD drive along.
Chances are it will NOT come back, they can repair/test without the hard drive, you need the drive to get to your files on another machine

 

I lol'ed I have also done some CPU changes/upgrades, on my table and on my bed(?). Have not seen this issue before.

Back to tropic, maybe it is best to RMA it, stock as possible as others above said. However, keep us updated

 

I think you may have fried both CPUs by static electricity.

does it beep same when you run it with and without CPU installed at all ?

if you didn't touch anything else then it's most likely that your other stuff works fine, i.e. MB, RAM, etc.

 

Come on - I've removed my CPU XX times and never did I know or care about static electricity - never had a problem. What are the chances this to kill 2 CPUs.
Definitely not!

 

Just because you didn't kill your CPU doesn't mean he didn't damage the mobo or both CPUs.

It's really easy to fry or damage something when you don't use any ESD protection. Just to say "definitely not" is pretty ignorant imo.


I don't think it's a good idea telling people how good replacing CPUs without any ESD protection works... they will go upgrading their systems without any precautions and end up with dead components.

 

You are not paying enough attention, just taking part-quotations and commenting them. Read the whole thread instead - you will see how I do agree something might have been damaged, for example the MB. What you missed in my last post is that I find the chances of damaging 2 (two) CPUs at once extremely low! Never did I advise anyone to work without precaution - I just shared my experience the way it is... - that I have been replacing CPUs XX times without ANY protection and never killed anything. Take it or leave it.

 

<- electrical engineer, with hobby in electronics.

.. too bad that you never knew or cared about static electricity. I hope you wont find out what it does in the electronic world one day. I can see you have some luck so far

I mean why would any computer component come in a special electrostatic bag when you buy it ..

 

I really am without a clue what I'm saying incorrectly here.
I never said static electricity is a myth, never said people should not care.

All I'm saying is that I have replaced a few CPUs at least 20-30 times and never had an accident even without precautions - this is a simple fact. Based on that, I find it statistically almost impossible to kill 2 CPUs at once! That's all.

It's like you telling me how seriously I should take putting my safety belt in the car and me saying that I have driven 30 times without a belt and am still fine. 2 Facts that that DO NOT contradict each other.

 

OP mentioned he's using a PDF file disassembling manual to take apart his laptop, I'm sure he's past any ESD issues and he's handling all components by the edge as noted in his manual.

Running a laptop without CPU, I really don't see the point there? Can you elaborate this method? The goods (if any) and the bads. I'm sure the laptop will be fine without the HDD but CPU or RAM, it needs those in order to power on, doesn't it ?

 

That's exactly the point Twiz57 - if the M/B recognizes that the cpu is not installed, it should balk at trying to power up.

If it just sits there with no audo/visual warnings at all - then the M/B could be the culprit.

 

Alright, update time.

I sent it in for an RMA, and just got it back.

It works now, of course. However, I can't tell what was damaged/fixed. The chassis looks identical to how I sent it in. When I opened the bottom to put my SSD and upgrade it to 8GB RAM, it looked the same.

However, I still want to upgrade the CPU, as I still have the i7-620m. As I just received the unit back, as well as not knowing what actually went wrong the first time, I'm a bit apprehensive. I will definitely use an electrostatic wrist strap this time.

I'm thinking of either waiting a bit, or just digging right in and upgrading it again - this time being much more cautious. I'd just hate to have to send it in again for the same reason.

 

Could have been Acer whitelisted the CPU and it got disassembled wrong and then it didn't POST with the original CPU. Who knows? There isn't a HUGE jump from a Core i5 to an Arrandale i7.

 

In places where you have high humidity ESD is a non issue, the surrounding vapour discharges static from your body very quickly, in very dry regions it is another story.

 

Acer don't whitelist stuff, because they use a lot of different SKU/Manufacturer parts in the same model.
It would be like creating extra trouble for themselves.
You can swap in any WiFi Card on a Acer and CPU if the Microcode is present in the firmware.
That is another reason why Acer Rocks.

 

Hrm well I didn't know that new Acers don't whitelist, that's good to know. Point in case, if you mess up again, adunno if Acer will do another RMA, or if they do I'm sure they will put more emphasis on finding out why the motherboard keeps on getting fried.

 

Static electricity, bah. I've never had an experience with it. I've built hundreds of computers and recently refurbished 200+ laptops without any issues. And I am not particularly careful. I throw cpus/motherboards/ect in ziplock bags all jumbled around.... I mean, not expensive stuff, but my parts bag (or box!) has never failed me (though my carelessness has)

One thing I did that caused the exact problem was accidentally putting a screw that was too long in the wrong place. It caused a short on the mobo and the computer simply wouldn't start. Retracing my steps, finding the screw, and removing it made everything ok.. i'd just check over your work real well... maybe try to run the laptop with just the mobo/cpu/1 stick ram/ screen NO CASE.. you can even take the ram out just to see if it yells at you

 

Yep me too, never had a single issue with static electrcity.

 

OK - I decided to jump right into trying again. I just couldn't sit back and wait any longer...

Lo and behold, it works this time. I followed the same procedure as last time, and there were no noticable hiccups. The temps are pretty high 40~ idle, 80~ full prime95 load, but I might consider repasting it later.

It took a while and some trouble, but now it finally works. However, I did accidentally break the backspace key while removing the keyboard one time, so it needs a lot of pressure to register. I'm thinking of ordering a US keyboard to replace it, as the bilingual one isn't the greatest anyway.

Thanks for all the help.

 

Glad to hear You finally made it. Enjoy higher performance .

 

yay! Good it worked this time