about the ac adapter ...

i just want to buy one new and i just can't find the original one ( i would wait alot to get one which will cost too much .. as they will order it from germany )

so i want to get spare one but i don't want to lose power .. so what should i take care of when searching for one ? the ampere or volt or the input or what ?

 

1. Voltage - I recommend staying with the same
2. Amperage - the more the better
3. Wattage - the more the better
4. Connector polarity and size

But the best bet is staying with OEM adapter. It is much safer.

 

thank you .. now i found one which is like the original in everything expect that the input in the original .. 100-240V - 50/60hz 1.5a
the other is 100-240 - 50/60 hz 1.4a ..

so is that 0.1 difference is bad ?

 

umm, okay ????

You want to have the same input voltage and amperage as your original. Thus the power supply would have the proper wattage to power your laptop.
You cant just say the more the better, because that is false information.
Each laptop power supply generates its own impedance. If the power brick is the wrong type, your laptop will reject it. Thus why when people buy hp power bricks to replace broken dell ones, the dell will reject it.
You will have to buy a new/used one from Fujitsu Siemens. I would check ebay, or buy directly from fujitsu. New power bricks are not expensive, and should not be overlooked, as they are a critical element to the wellbeing of your laptop.

K-TRON

 

You would usually try to get the power supply with the same potential difference and current... the potential difference part is most important... less current will be all right but under stress the adapter might give enough power and cause the laptop to shut down... if u can't find the exact power supply , get a universal power adapter..

 

thnx all ... so again i found one like originial .. fujitsu

expect that the input in the original .. 100-240V - 50/60hz 1.5a
the other is 100-240 - 50/60 hz 1.4a ..

so is that 0.1 difference is bad ?

 

If the power adaptor is from another fujitsu, it should be fine.

K-TRON

 

k-Torn thank you .. but what i meant will it make the notebook work with all it's power ? and what about the difference in the amper .. 1.5 vs 1.4

hey guys should i get it ?

 

There is no "false" information about it. I use enough power supplies to stand by my recommendation of replacement units. More amperage and wattage never hurt notebooks. Power adapter manufacturers have been known to use this equation to sell adapters at a "lower" voltage output to compensate for the output.

Furthermore, I said clearly in my post that staying with OEM is everyone's best bet if anyone has issues understanding 3rd party units.

 

In laptops such as the D900K, which I am very familiar with, there was a 180 watt and a 220 watt powerbrick. More often than not, the 220 watt power brick would destroy the motherboards since the current output jump from 8 amps to 11 amps, was more than what the motherboard's votage regulators could handle. I have the service manual, and I can call out the resistivity, and tolerances on the SMT electronics in the power circuits
On my dell inspiron 8500, I have a 65 watt and a 90 watt power adaptor for it. The 90 watt is original. The 65 watt one I bought from the so called genuine dell sales people on ebay. Because it has less wattage than it is supposed to be getting, the battery charges much slower than when it does with the 90 watt power brick.
The manufacturer specs the power supply at what the machine uses and needs. Laptop motherboards are different creatures than desktop motherboards, they cant handle over amperage.

To answer your question, as long as it is a Fujitsu siemens power supply, the impedance matching will be the same, thus the laptop will pick it up and accept it. The drop from 1.5amps to 1.4amps should not affect system performance, but if anything it will slow down the ability for the charger to charge the batteries.

K-TRON

 

Would you link me to where the 220W power brick is for the Clevo D900K? I am only aware of the OEM 20V 9A 180W adapter, and would be interested to know about this 20V ??A 200W unit.

cheers ...

 

Hi Qhn,
the original is indeed a 20v at 9amp supply rated for 180 watts
That 8amps was a typo, I meant 9.

Here is a picture of my d900k power supply 11amps at 20v for 220watts



The 220watt model was used on the D900T/K with 7800GTX and higher graphics cards.

K-TRON

 

Alienware 51M 7700 and Clevo D9T/D900K do need extra power to driver the devices. In this very particular case, where the more A and W destroy the motherboard, it was being traced back to an old motherboard version with a "faulty" voltage regulator, not that it cannot support the extra voltage.

I 2nd Padmé above posts until a concrete scenario where more A/W hurt any comps.

cheers ...

 

K-TRON, I don't think you really understand laptop power adapters.

Like qhn said, it was a faulty motherboard causing that. The voltage circuits on the motherboard were pulling more amps than they could handle. The power adapter could be rated for 1000 watts and it shouldn't make a difference. What determines current is not the adapter, but the computer. The adapter only puts a limit on how much current can be drawn.

Which makes perfect sense. The higher wattage power adapter can supply the laptop with more power than the lower wattage power adapter, who would have guessed it? Still, no nuclear melt down and I assume everything worked well since you didn't add anything else. I do the same thing with my laptops, I mix and match the two different adapters all the time.

They are more similar than you think. Just because a computer power supply is rated for 30 amps on the 12V rail doesn't mean that you get 30 amps, end of story. The power supply doesn't feed it's rated output current to the computer, it is capable of having that much drawn. The power adapter isn't blowing current through a straw, the computer is sucking it through a straw. What do you think happens when the computer is done charging the battery but is still plugged in? The laptop doesn't start heating up like a hot plate, it just draws much less current.

Laptop power adapters are all switching power supplies. They have a target voltage and maintain it through varying power loads.

No, that is the rated input current, which will vary with the voltage at the wall and the current being drawn by the computer. 1.5 to 1.4 is probably within the margin for error, and since the output specs are the same, it doesn't make one bit of a difference.

 

I dont think you know how to read. You just put up this front to try and prove me wrong all of the time. Grow up and try adding to the thread, rather than just troll.

K-TRON

 

thank you all for tell me things i really didn't know .. thank you

@ K-Torn :
thank you for your answer but i'm really sorry for bothering are you sure it will just affect the battery charging not the the performance ?? because i'm studying architecture and use 3ds max and i really need it with it's best state .. i don't care about battery charging but the most important is the performance .. so plz are you sure ?

 

Trottel :
thank you so much .. so the most important is the output specs ..

 

You were saying some things and making assumptions about how laptop power adapters work that are plainly wrong. Please don't take everything so personally.

 

Trottel is correct. The ACPI is not going to order the notebook to draw more power than it can handle. I have been running a 160W PSU for five days now from a 120W PSU and nothing has gone wrong. My W870CU won't crash and burn during an OCCT PSU test in the few seconds anymore; with the 160W unit, I can run the stress test all the live long day.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/showpost.php?p=5840018&postcount=1087
http://forum.notebookreview.com/showpost.php?p=5867604&postcount=1119