asus ux32vd-db71

So I'm looking to upgrade my 500GB HDD on my Asus Ux32vd and I want to get either a 128GB or 256GB SSD. I'm only taking up like 98GB currently on my HDD so I don't know if I really need the 256. Anyway from what i've read in order to make the whole process as simple as possible I've read I need a 7mm hard drive I think? Can anyone recommend a good one for me? also if I buy windows 8 can I load it on a 32gig flash drive and install from it after I switch to the SSD? Also if anyone done it, please answer to the easiness of the upgrade and if I should pay a professional to do it for me.
Thanks,
Sam

 

Pay a professional? NO - become one yourself:

1) Buy Windows 8 x64 PRO.

2) Download the MS DVD tool:

See:
Microsoft's Official USB/DVD Download Tool Helps you Upgrade Netbooks to Windows 7 | Cool Stuff | Channel 9


Create your bootable USB Win8 Install disk with the above.

3) Buy a 240/256GB SSD. Or, buy a 480GB (or larger) SSD if you're interested in the new Crucial M500 series.

Why? To ensure the most optimal balance of nand chips to controller channels - this will in turn reward you with the highest sustained performance over time with the least amount of WA (write amplification) and the least destructive GC possible to the nand. The increased capacity also comes in handy to Over-Provision (OP) the SSD by ~30% to ensure that you get the performance you paid for over the lifetime of your purchase. Also, keep in mind that Windows needs at least a good 25GB 'free' to operate smoothly too.

Combine that with the fact that a 128GB SSD will give you ~119GB formatted capacity - you are already below the free space threshold Windows needs - not to mention using the SSD at 85%-99% filled and with no OP'ing which will bring your SSD performance to the HDD territory sooner or later (depending on the SSD model/controller combination you use).

Definitely a bad idea to cut it so close (capacity-wise) whether you're thinking performance, reliability and/or longevity from you new SSD.


4) Do a CLEAN INSTALL to your new SSD - with only Windows 7 x64 SP1 or Windows 8 x64 (x64 if you'll be using more than 4GB RAM - 8-16GB RAM is highly recommended) - any previous O/S will not do a proper job with regards to alignment and will result in poor performance and highly increased wear on the SSD's nand.

5) On your current setup:

Make sure you have the latest BIOS for your notebook installed.

Download at least the network drivers (wired and/or wireless) for your notebook and save them to the same USB stick after you created your Win8x64 install disk. You may also want to download your current Video card drivers and Audio drivers too (and any other specialty drivers your notebook might use) from the manufacturers website (for your specific model).

See:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/asus-reviews-owners-lounges/680787-asus-ux32vd-owners-lounge.html


6) Disconnect your power supply. Remove your battery. Remove the bottom cover.

a) Upgrade RAM to at least 8GB (optional, but highly recommended).
b) Remove HDD.
c) Insert SSD.
d) Replace bottom cover.
e) Replace battery. Connect power supply.

7) Insert Win8 USB installer you created above. Power on the notebook. (You may have to select the boot option menu (F8/F9/F12 - depending on your specific system - or you many need to enter the BIOS to specifically select it (or make it selectable)).

The system should boot from the USB key.

8) Select Advanced Install options and Create a Partition that is 70% of the total capacity available.

This is important to do this now while the SSD is brand new/before first use - it is what sets up the Over Provisioning on the SSD to give you the most robust and performance enabled setup possible over time.

9) With the Windows 8 Installer finished, install the drivers you have downloaded previously for the Networking, Audio and Video components.

10) Do ALL Windows updates.

11) Install your programs.

12) Copy your data.

13) Done.



To enhance your Windows 8/SSD experience further, you may want to try the following:

1) With 16GB of RAM (or more) - disable the Pagefile.

2) Disable the Hibernation file.

3) Disable System Restore.

4) Disable all 'animations' of the O/S.

5) Disable SuperFetch.

6) Disable PreFetch.


If you want the last drop of performance/immediacy from your SSD (and don't care about losing a few minutes battery run time...):

7) Unlock CPU cores on your system.

See:
Coder Bag: Disable CPU Core Parking Utility

8) Set the DIPM timer to 5 minutes (300,000 mS):

See:
AHCI Link Power Management - Enable HIPM and DIPM - Windows 7 Help Forums



As to why you want to Over Provision:

See:
AnandTech | Exploring the Relationship Between Spare Area and Performance Consistency in Modern SSDs

Anand Lal Shimpi:

As to why 120/128GB capacity is 'wrong':

See:
HARDOCP - Introduction - Samsung 840 120GB SSD Review

While the above is not a complete list by any means - I hope that I have given you a good start towards an optimized system setup with Win8 and an SSD - and some of the reasons why.



Good luck.







...

 

Thank you so much for your reply!!!!!
Ok two things to ask then. I have never opened up a computer in my life so I don't really know whats involved and how to not ruin the computer by tinkering. After I disconnect the power supply and remove the bottom cover (obviously keeping track of screws and such) is there any steps I should take while upgrading? If you were teaching a newbie to do this (which I am) what would you recommend I do to make sure I don't ruin my computer. Also, do you have any recommendations for 240/256GB SSD drive thats really good but also affordable (200-250)? Do you like the M500 for that capacity (The one you mentioned)?
Thanks again

 

Disconnect the power supply, remove the battery and then remove the bottom cover (ALL important steps, first, and in order...).


Sit down. Don't be in a rush, work in a well lit environment - and work in an area that won't be disturbed by wind, pets, kids or snoopy parents...

With the notebook upside down on a towel - front towards you - remove each screw and place the screw in the area directly above the notebook and removed in a semblance of an exploded view of how you are taking it apart - this will help immensely with reassembly (especially if the screws are differently sized for different locations of the notebook).

Work slowly and methodically - don't force things apart - be gentle. Finally, if you can - work with another computer nearby (google your model for youtube 'disassemble' videos and/or written instructions too - at the very least, view them a couple of times and print out any instructions you can - also check out the link I gave above too for more info on your model).

My recommendations (in order) for SSD's are:


1) Crucial M500 480/960GB (recommended based on high capacity and experience with M4 - not tested yet in my workflows).

See:
Crucial M500 Solid State Drive SATA III, 480GB at Memory Express


2) Intel 520 Series 240GB - lower and higher capacities NOT recommended.

See:
Intel SSD 520 Series SATA III Solid State Drive, 240GB at Memory Express


3) SanDisk Extreme 240GB - lower and higher capacities NOT recommended.

See:
Sandisk Extreme SATA III Solid State Drive, 240GB at Memory Express


4) Crucial M4 256/512GB - lower capacities NOT recommended.

See:
Newegg.ca - Crucial M4 CT256M4SSD1 2.5" 256GB SATA III MLC 7mm Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)

See:
Newegg.ca - Crucial M4 CT512M4SSD1 2.5" 512GB SATA III MLC 7mm Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)


5) Samsung 840 Pro 256GB - lower and higher capacities NOT recommended.

See:
Samsung 840 Pro Series Solid State Drive, SATA III, 256GB at Memory Express



Yeah, I am recommending a drive I haven't tested (the M500 series) based on the expected increased performance of the M4 256/512GB models) - the same M4's which perform most real world tasks very similar to the #5 Samsung 840 Pro I have been using the last few months. Although I am disappointed performance-wise with the Samsung - it is worth considering because of your 7mm Z-Height restriction...


As an aside, I think I have found one reason the Samsung SSD's 'feel' so slow to me:

See:
HARDOCP - Iometer & Steady State Testing - Seagate 600 and 600 Pro SSD Review


The last graph on the page above shows a steady state (a place where all SSD's reach eventually) mixed reading and writing scenario (again: standard fare for any modern O/S...) with the Samsung being last...

The M4's - although they 'score' bad in benchmarks are actually very good in real world use - definitely be careful though as they come in 9.5mm and 7.0mm Z-Height (I think I have picked the right size for the links I have provided).

The SanDisk Extreme is a pleasant surprise too. Performing almost identical to the Intel 520 240GB model - just without the Intel backing and excellent SSD Toolbox that Intel provides. The biggest compliment about the SanDisk is that it is usually priced a lot lower than the 520 Series...



And just to be very clear - the M500's at lower than 480GB are to be avoided if the highest performance is what you're after.

What the higher capacity M500's promise is much higher sustained performance - even higher than the Samsung 840 Pro 512GB model...

See:
AnandTech | The Crucial/Micron M500 Review (960GB, 480GB, 240GB, 120GB)


And again: check out how the 'lowly' M4 is within spitting distance of the highly regarded 840 Pro in some/most of the graphs in the link above...


Hope this helps.

 

Thanks again!! I noticed on the review for the m500 that the Corsair Neutron (which is 256GB and only 200 bucks on newegg) outperformed it in every category and I was just wondering why you didn't recommend it. I would probably go with the Intel 520 if I don't choose this Corsair or (maybe OCZ vertex 4 which also seemed to do well in the review you mentioned and my subsequent research)...I don't know much about computers though.

The last question I have is about the O/S install that you told me how to do. I've been thinking about this, and Ubuntu has lately gotten very good, fast, and apparently is even better for viruses than Mac (I don't know how true this is). Plus, Metro seems kind of dumb which I don't like coming from Windows 7. Linux is also free which is 200 bucks back in my pocket. you seem extremely tech savvy so I would guess you know a little bit about Linux Ubuntu but you may not. If you do, would I follow a very similar procedure for creating a USB boot install disk for MS with Ubuntu? Would the drivers be the same?

Real actual last question: Crucial is fine for RAM right? I'm looking at the 8GB CL11 stick (to match the CL11 in the machine)

Again I really want to thank you for your help it means a lot to me you are so helpful!
Thanks,
Sam

 

AFA linux see this information : https://help.ubuntu.com/community/AsusZenbookPrime ... Which version of Ubuntu are you considering?
If you are interested I can post a link for various win 7 versions- there is a code that brings the cost down under $70 for Home Premium.
Yes you can create a DVD or USB stick to install the Ubuntu OS or you can try it without installing it How to create a bootable USB stick on Ubuntu | Ubuntu
extremely tech savvy is an understatement when it comes to the "tiller" !

 

Well I can get windows 8 cheap through my Dad who works at a University but I don't know I want to try Linux because I guess its always good to learn new things! I'm guessing I would do Raring Ringtail since that's the newest version? I don't know why I would do previous versions if they aren't as updated...So it seems though from the link you gave me that the only thing I would have to do myself after getting all the drivers and stuff is configure the touchpad? Seems decent enough. Is there anything else I need to know? From what I understand I also need to download Wine in order to play a lot of windows games...

 

Oh yeah, the M500 is not for performance oriented workflows - it is about getting good enough (more than good enough compared to HDD's, of course) performance and the highest capacities possible for the least amount of $$$.

The Neutron GTX and the newly introduced Seagate 600 and 600 Pro...

See:
AnandTech | The Seagate 600 & 600 Pro SSD Review


are definitely higher performing than Crucial M500's - but unless your workflow is utilizing the type of performance offered (and imo, solely in a desktop environment because of the higher power/heat/cooling requirements) you are simply spending too much to get less real world performance.


I agree that Ubuntu is very good - but without Office and my accounting program and analyzing tools - not to mention PS CS6, LR4 and my other image editing tools, it is almost useless to me. I did try it for a few months not too long ago - it was dual booting Windows 7 and 8 (on different physical systems), but eventually I realized that I had no reason to boot into it. I formatted those SSD's and installed Windows 8 x64 Pro (only) instead.


If it does what you need - go ahead and save some cash. If you're going to be using your system in any professional capacity - Windows 8 x64 Pro highly recommended.



Thank you for the kind words - from both you and JOSEA - glad to be able to give something back that seems so 'easy' to me.




Take care.

 

Raring Ringtail (13.04) is only going to be supported for 9 months from what I read. 12.04.2 is supported until April 2017 ! (hence the LTS suffix). I tried a few distros and went with 12.04.2 for many reasons but especially the extended support. When you install either version it is a bit easier if you are connected to the internet via a wired connection. FYI updates come much more often than windows. Yes wine is the best solution for running windows applications.

 

awesome. I really don't want to shell out 360 dollars on a drive right now so I don't really need the M500. Is there any reason I should NOT get the Corsair Neutron over the Intel 520? I compared the two on NewEgg and it seems like the Neutron GTX is CHEAPER has faster IOPS (whatever that means), and has similar sequential read/write speeds. Plus apparently it uses LAND instead of Sandforce which reading on the net, people seem to have problems with? So is there anything I should know before I buy Neutron GTX outright?

Newegg.com - Computer Parts, PC Components, Laptop Computers, LED LCD TV, Digital Cameras and more!

 

Most of the Sandforce problems from the first-generation of controllers are gone in the second-generation (current) SF-2281 controllers. In addition to that, Intel writes their own firmware for their Sandforce-based drives, so they tend to be a bit more reliable than your typical Sandforce drive of the same era. Just from personal experience, but I have an Intel 330 (SF-2281) that I've owned for nearly a year and I've so far had zero issue with it. LAND is a newer controller on the block and from research I've done in a different thread that mentioned that Neutron GTX, I couldn't find much information or reviews about the drive's reliability (it's suppose to be as reliable or better than the current controllers on the market, but I couldn't find any hard data to back this up).

Other than that, tiller has already provided a massive amount of useful information about SSDs and performing your own upgrades, and it would be hard for me to add to his posts. Just make sure that you're electrically discharged before touching any electronic components inside your laptop. Don't work in a carpet-floor environment (or if you do, keep your feet and chair very still so as to not generate static electricity), discharge yourself every so often buy touching a grounded metal device (such as a plugged-in desktop tower by touching the metal case) or attach an ESD wristband to connect yourself to said grounded device, and **most importantly** chill out and go slowly(!). You don't need to rush and rushing will only add to the probablitiy that you'll make a mistake.

 

The intel 520 is reputable and very very smooth to use with normal work. It also idles considerably lower power than the Neutron which directly translate to about 10-15% better battery life.

 

I am going to jump in late on this. Even more than late after Tiller. OK so my SSD real world experience is not much. On my 1st, 830. I would suggest a 256GB (240GB) whatever as all the pipelines are open. At least on some 128GB drives throughput bandwidth restricted.

All that said one very good option is the Samsung 840 Pro. It combines a very high level of performance with insane power conservation. It's power draw is of a "magnitude" less than others. It is not the absolute best in speeds but does hang with and the power draw or lack of is incredible.

All and all it is very tough to decide. I guess I would say look at the 4K read/write as in real usage more important than sequential read/write. I make no claim to be an expert but I do have eyes wide open.

Good luck.