AMD Turion 64 X2 TL-60 multiplier vista and RMclock?.

I have been looking at lowering the voltage on my 90nm Trinidad Turion X2 TL-60 and have noticed a few things…

The Vista power management seems to only use 4 power states:

2000 Mhz 1.075V
1800 Mhz 1.025V
1600 Mhz 0.975V
800 Mhz 0.800V

However, in RMclock there is the ability to use all 7 multipliers:

4x 800 Mhz 0.800V (Untested)
5x 1000 Mhz 0.825 (Untested)
6x 1200 Mhz 0.875 (Untested)
7x 1400 Mhz 0.925V (Untested)

8x 1600 Mhz 0.975 (Untested) (I worked out that each stage is 0.05 lower than the previous so worked out from x10 @ 1.075V stock voltage)

9x 1800 Mhz 0.925V (tested Orthos 45mins PASSED) (originally 1.025)
10x 2000 Mhz 0.975V (Tested Orthos 45mins PASSED) (originally 1.075)

I am wondering why Vista doesn’t make use of all of these different power states as I have given this a test drive this afternoon and the laptop runs so much cooler. I don’t need either 2000, 1800 or 1600 Mhz to scroll down a web page and it is this that makes the laptop heat up so much. It was using 800, 1000, 1200, 1400 Mhz to perform tasks that would have otherwise had to be done at 1600 and usually 1800 Mhz.

My real question is it that there is some reason for this? Surely the processor would already use these power states if it was safe to do so? Do you think that this might in any way damage my CPU?

I have yet to test all my power states and have only done so for 9x and 10x but will keep going through the others over the week.

Also, under Advanced CPU setting > P states it was set at “Direct P-state transitions scheme, whole FIDs” should I change this to Official AMD P-state transition scheme? This only allows 4x 5x 8x 9x 10x - this is back to the 800, 1600, 1800, 2000 Mhz operation – I cannot see that this is as good? Does it matter?

I’d really appreciate any feedback on this or to hear from anyone else who has or is undervolting their Turion 64 X2 series.

Many thanks!

 

Faster throttling is all that is. Vista power management isnt very flexible aswell.

5x-7x multiplier doesnt really get used much. The two most used multipliers are idle and max multiplier. The middle multipliers are only used on certain type of cpu load.

It wont damage your CPU dont worry. Choose whichever you prefer.

Personally id leave all the multipliers enabled for a more efficient CPU.

 

Hi flipfire,

I think I would prefer to use all the multipliers as it did seem to make a significant difference to the temps for normal use.

I know that i cant go any lower on 4x than 0.800 as it BSOD right away on 0.775, but does anyone know what voltage to start at on 5x-7x?

I dont think my estimates worked as i was using this and had a random shut down, i am going to have to test each one with orthos to check i suppose...

will keep you posted but any more advice welcome!

thanks!

 

I have the same cpu and here are the settings for the rmclock which work perfect for me without ever
having a BSOD or whatever. I use it that way since months and it keeps it cool.

Settings:
leave it the way you see it the first time you
start rm. except Celcius, Fahrenheit. whichever you need to see.

( Startup via registry key): I tried Startup
folder, had problems with starting it by itself.

Check: Start minimized and Run at Windows startup. But I suggest you try it out first with the settings I show here. Maybe your cpu is somewhat
different but it shouldn't be, I have the same. But just in case, don't check that the first time.

CPU Info:
If Startup shows 0.8000V, you'll have to start higher otherwise it'll just turn off and reboot.

Management:
P-state checked and enable OS power .....(that's all)

Profiles:
This is the important part. Also the Auto-adjustment.
Leave that checked ! (I know, with a Intel you supposed to uncheck it and I do on my Toshiba).
It will auto adjust the voltage correctly. Don't do it manually!

Like I said before, if Startup voltage is 0.8000
then set the 0 (4x) to 0.8500.
It will adjust all the other ones correctly by itself.
Again, leave Auto-adjust checked. Otherwise, you will have to do everything all over again when you reboot. It will reset to default.
Don't forget to set Current and Startup to: Performance on Demand.

Performance on Demand:
Check: Use P-state transitions. Both AC power and
Battery.(Battery, if you want that).

Check all Indexes the way they show. Don't change it.

Performance/power transition logic settings:
On the Down transition interval I set mine to 100.
Works without problem for me. Temperatur goes down
quicker. Again, might be different for you. try it.

Leave everything else the way it is.

If you have adjusted anything manually, go to Profiles, make sure,
Auto-adjust is checked, then set the first voltage to 0.8500.
Again, you should now see that the voltage has it's own step/setting.

Go back to:
Performance on Demand, see if they are now the same settings and checked.
Try the Down trasition interval first with 200.

Go on a website, like a music video on youtube, play a video and watch the
loads and temp of the cpu.
(right click on that round rm tray icon, check the: Show cpu temperatur).

If all that works ok, set the Down transition to 100.
I found that it brings the temp down faster. But that's just my opinion/observation.

Don't forget to click Apply.

I hope this will work for you.

 

Hi thanks for the info - great!

I am going to leave my startup voltage at 0.800 as this is the factory setting for my TL-60 and it BSODs at any lower than that.

I think a starting point would then be,

x5 0.850
x6 0.900
x7 0.950
x8 0.975

I will see if i can get it to run any lower on the voltage than these, once I have determinded the lowest stable voltage (after 45mins orthos) then I will look at Down trasition interval first with 200 (the default) then look at trying 100 to see if this makes a vast difference to the temp or has any effect on stability.

Many thanks - I think with the voltages and multipliers optimised with RMclock the TL-60 will be nicer to use in terms of fan noise and heat and possibly even battery life, which lets face it is why we look at undervolting!

Many thanks!

 

About Fan noise !

I will never understand why anybody would complain about fan noise. I rather hear that fan blowing more times then not.
I had 2 burned motherboards because they got too hot. the reason?
The fan wasn't blowing. the reason?
Oh well, I was dumb enough to update the bios because a technician told me I still got the older Bios version and I should update (I had called in because the wireless stopped working). After that, the temperatur went up to 160 all the time. Even rm couldn't help with that. I'm talking about the
Bios version F.3B.
The previous was F.2F and that worked just fine. It turns the fan on when it's needed(around 125), not so the other version. But the older version it seems is not available anymore. I wish they would fix that.
My Toshiba's fan comes on with 120. But that one never really get's hot.
It's a different construction.
After the second one burnt out (I still had warranty), I got the mobo replaced again. when it came back, first thing I did was check the temp. And it went up to 145/150. I knew, the same thing will happen again.
I called a case manager in CA and explained the situation. Well, then I got a brand new laptop and this one has the F.2F bios ver and I have no heat problems. Because I hear that fan coming on when the cpu is running on a load for some time. I can only say, thank god for that.
So, yeah, I like to hear that Fan !

 

Hey I have the AMD Turion 64 X2 TL-60 as well. If you find any good stable voltages please do tell. But from your reading it seems that there isn't. I tried undervolting before and I got it to a stable point, then a BSOD after 10 minutes or so.

 

then you might be just a little too low with the start (0).
I have it on 0.8500, try the next, 0.875. it is a trial/error til you get it right.
also, read what I said about check/uncheck. I found, even that is critical.
and, don't adjust the Profile/voltage manulally. wont work. at least not on mine. let it adjust by itself, it'll come out correct. the temperatur will still be great/low. even with my startup, 0.8500, it goes down to 0.800 on idle.
overall, I don't see any slowdown.
good luck.

 

Hi

hder207

Yes I quite agree that we need the fan on all the time and to keep the notebook cool to avoid it from cooking! I have tried the later BIOS's that you mentioned but I found they made the temps worse! - Im using F.06 which brings the fan on at 129 F or 54 degreec C and only switches off when it gets below about 48 which I do not think is too hot at all. The reason I'm looking at undervolting is to keep it as cool as possible all the time.

Startup *should be ok at 0.800 for me as thats the default, but I shall keep you updated on testing the other multipliers.

 

hi dv9565

ok, as you might know, every model of dv's has it's own updates. that goes for your bios, too. the number/version I had was for the dv6000 series or 6500. that bios update was not good at all. that's why I mentioned the previous version which worked great.
your model is different, so, yes, you need to have that exact bios update.
don't try any other ones from another model. might screw you up real good.
anyway, you seem to be lucky, your update is good. if it kicks in at the right temp then that's all you need.
talking about the 0.8000. mine doesn't like that setting, it reboots instantly. I set it to 0.8500 and it works without problems.
which is to show, not every cpu or mobo is the same.
whatever works for you, that's the way you do it.

But don't we love it when we have such problems....
It gives as a reason to scream, curse, tear out our hair, waist time for nothing.....