Best place to buy an HP, How to get all your money back,and make sure mfg bears the brunt of the loss, instead of the reseller!

EDIT Mar-3-3-2007-

It appears Costco is revamping their return policies on electronics.

(Bummer, as I had hoped other vendors would be forced to do so as well. This is bad news for ALL of us guys-)

PC's now have a 90 day return window, instead of 180, BUT they have extended (DOUBLED) the mfg's warranty from 1, to 2-years...

Disregard any reference to 180 days- put 90 in it's place as of 3-3-2007 from here on out in the below posts.

Sad to see the 180 return window go, but at least the warranty period has been doubled.

CHECK THIS LINK, as in everyplace except Ca you still will have the 180-day return window on any purchases made in the next few weeks :






NOTE, there are tech tips several posts below that should be of interest to all. Please excuse the misleading thread title as after about a month with no replies to this thread I decided to use this thread (since it was dead) as a holding area for tech tips...

Before you dismiss the below, saying you'd prefer to do business with (insert name here) consider that:
1: Laptops have a much higher rate of failure than desktops.
2: They have VERY SHORT production cycles
3: Are used to test new ideas, hardware.... New idea's, hardware that in some cases don't "play-nice" (work together)
4: Alot of times "problems" don't appear right away, or are noticed during the standard 21-day return window.
(Read section on tolerance stacking below)

I think one source saying they have a failure rate of like 30% (within 2 years).. another source I read the other day saying the industry return rate to be 41%, but that fiqure was both the failure rate, regular returns...

What concerns me is that from hanging around here and other places I've been reading posts from people going thru multiple units to get a "good" one, and that once past your "return window" you're at the mercy of the mfg... Or should I say the company that has contracted with the ODM /OEM to make a unit for them, them themselves never making the product, only marketing it.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Original_Design_Manufacturer
Market Research Firm iSuppli issued a report in 2006 which demonstrated that 82.6% of PC notebooks are made in Taiwan by Taiwanese OEM's and ODM's. As of 2006, the top 10 ODM's for notebook computers in terms of market share were

1.Quanta Computers 28.7% (HQ:Taiwan)
2.Compal Electronics 18.2% (HQ:Taiwan)
3.Wistron 9.2% (HQ:Taiwan)
4.Asustek 6.9% (HQ:Taiwan)
5.Inventec 4.9% (HQ:Taiwan)
6.Uniwill 3.1% (HQ:Taiwan)
7.Mitac 2.0% (HQ:Taiwan)
8.Foxconn 1.5% (HQ:Taiwan)
9.Samsung 1.5% (HQ:South Korea)
10.Arima 1.5% (HQ:Taiwan)


As a case in point about going thru multiple units I had to go to Sam's and Costco last week... while at Costco I was looking at the offerings... Looking at a dv9xxx variant...

While there looking at it a older gentlemen comes up and we start talking.... He seemed to be into computers more so than the average person, him saying he was into photo editing, and had run benchmarks on his system... Knew that problems appear 2-3-4 months down the road and then your stuck with dealling with the mfg, He said he had called HP and said he was not impressed. He mentioned in reference to dv8xxx's he had the dv8000 keyboard problem.. a bad display on one, and something else wrong on unit#3..
(Display stopped working about two months into ownership he said.)

Guess what else he said?...
He said he was mightly glad he bought from Costco as he's gone thru 3, (or maybe 4 dv8xxxx's).... and I think he said he's been thru 2 dv9xxx's to get (1) good one.
(he was happy with the last unit)...

He said that the 180-day return window was important to him. If it is to you depends on the price of course.... and how much you fiqure your time is worth to try to get a unit "repaired"... vs just having the option to get the unit replaced outright...


**********************************

Preface:

First of all, let me make one thing perfectly clear... I do not work for, own stock in, or otherwise profit from YOU buying a unit from any of the vendors below... unlike others here that do.
My only concern is that those vendors with the longest return window remain in business, grow in market share... and those that don't, don't.

*************************************

This thread is an attempt to point people who are "in the market" to what I think is the best vendor for buying a PC from and how to return the unit so it is marked properly upon a return so the mfg takes the loss, instead of the vendor.
The reason this is important is because there are very few vendors that offer a 180 day return window, and we as consumers need to make sure that those vendors are :

A: Supported
B: Don't take the loss on returns... Otherwise over time they will reduce the length of their return window, which will leave you at the mercy of the mfg.

(Note that if you don't have the vendors mentioned below in your country the below info still applies so read on.)
* * * * * *

First of all lets start this off with a listing of vendors, and the return windows they offer.
Disregard the below references to the 180-day return window offered by COSTCO if you've found a unit at like 50% off and you "feel lucky".

COSTCO =180 days, get ALL your money back
COSTCO- in store, or via the net at www.COSTCO.com)
You can buy units in store (pre-built models)... or go online www.costco.com and either CTO a machine.. OR buy a prebuilt..(CTO=Custom to Order, comes DIRECT from the HP factory in CHINA in about 7-10 days from time order is placed.)

Sams-180 days, but (aka SamsClub- a division of the evil Wal-Mart empire, Puts small businesses out of business when they come to town and uses every dirty trick in the book. http://www.tenspeed.com/store/index.php?main_page=pubs_product_book_jph1_info&products_id=2073&zenid=7a8288870b67116a32a9b1ec688cea06


HP Shopping (Buying from HP directly)=7/14 (Asia Market),21 days USA

Best Buy =30?
CircuitCity=30?
OfficeDepot=30?
OfficeMax=
Staples=
NewEgg.com


I am of the mindset that we (the consumers) need to support those companies that offer the longest return windows on products as there are alot of issues that are only discovered or become a problem after the grace period, be it 7/14 (Asia market!), or 21/30 days.
(read section on tolerance stacking below!!)

In the case of HP notebooks from the thousands of posts I've read and my personal experience it is very important to find a company that has a LONG return window on the "CONSUMER" models that HP offers.

One of the biggest reasons to look for a long return window is the Consumer, or Home line is used as a testing bed for new, unproven ideas and unproven parts that have VERY short production cycles.... Add to that they are pushed to market sometimes before they are ready it seems to meet a certain time period such as Back to School or the Christmas shopping season, Or to beat another competitor to market. Got to get your product "out there" to gain market share you know.

While I'm all for cutting edge, there are problems that arise from such short production runs. New models+ parts= ideas+ People at the factories not finding out till 3/4 the way thru the production run xyz part needs a redesign = problems.
Some problems never being fixed... the mfg hoping that thru attrition + time +units going out of warranty that they don't have to fix those problems. The mfg knowing that once the item does go out of warranty not many people are going to pay their price to get it repaired, once they compare the cost to repair against the cost of a "new" machine.

Here's some info from someone that works on /owns a shop in reference to HP, and the current models:

Now, with the above being said by someone who works on these things everyday and is trained in such, How many of you guys which are gung-ho on buying from HP and think 21 days or whatever is enough to test out a unit ever heard of something called: "Tolerance Stacking"?

Google "Tolerance Stacking" if you don't know what it is.

"Tolerance Stacking"
For those that don't know all parts have a certain range in which they will operate, and the total of all the parts tolerance being added up is tolerance stacking.

When a unit is "new" a unit that may have parts that are on the "limit" may operate during your 7/14, or 21/30 day exchange period, but then fail after that as the parts go further out of spec. A "good" unit will have parts right in the "middle" of the specs, or on the low end... and will run a longggggg time...
(If the mfg is using high quality components!!!)

If you're still unclear about "Tolerance Stacking" Google something call "BluePrinting" in reference to race cars.... When "blueprinting" an engine all the specs are made to be in the "perfect" range... the car will run faster and break down less than a car that has not been blueprinted. In a normal car that car will run longer, get better gas mileage, perform better.... plus last longer...


Getting back to computers, you may indeed get a "good" one, then again not. If you don't you will be thanking me later if you chose to buy from COSTCO.

A product is no good than the service after the sale, and frankly to make a long story short HP's "repair" service and their general treatment of customers leaves alot to be desired to put it nicely.

* * * * *



Here's the deal about COSTCO:

You can buy units in store (pre-built models)... or go online www.costco.com and either CTO a machine.. OR buy a prebuilt..
(CTO=Custom to Order, comes DIRECT from the HP factory in CHINA in about 7-10 days from time order is placed.)

Prices on the whole are cheaper than if ordered direct from HP in most cases.. and in those cases that they aren't... the 180 day return window more than makes up for any small price differances.

Most of the time the COSTCO site will mirror the HP site, each item being alittle cheaper on the Costco site.... at least on the CTO machines. HP runs special sometimes, or offers a "free" printer /a bundle that Costco may not carry. Keep in mind the reason they give you a free printer is because the printer more than likely is one of those models with the little dinky ink cartidges that are going to eat you alive in ink costs. That's why they give you that free printer.

Check them out, and compare....

BTW, If you find a great deal somewhere else, or own stock in HP like alot of posters around here have let it "slip" from time to time or work for HP and feel the need to buy from HP, or (insert the name of your company here).... go ahead.
.


Section 2, Returns.... Returning a unit so the mfg (HP) bears the loss instead of the vendor. (Costco in this case)

For those who do end up returning a unit to COSTCO, make SURE that it is stated that the unit has a PROBLEM, that it is defective, that it is marked NON-RESALEABLE... so the loss is billed back to HP.... so HP takes the loss.

Returns should be reserved for cases in which the mfg is not working with you on a "repair", is jerking you around on a unit in warranty...

Keep in mind that if you return a unit thru Costco that it's not defective in some way, it's marked "resaleable" and it's sold off to a salvage company for 30 cents on the dollar in most Costco's. (which means a huge loss)

From the info I have, 0-21 days Costco gets a full credit back for any return, working or not working. (Not surpising since the HP return window is 21-days)

From 21 thru the 180th day Costco bears the loss on any return, (taking a huge loss btw) the units being sold off to a salvage company for like 30 cents on the dollar, if they are marked "resaleable"..... It is only if the unit is DEFECTIVE in some way and is marked non-resaleable that COSTCO gets credited back from the 21st thru the 180-day.

The reason it's important that you do return a unit correctly and not abuse that return policy is COSTCO is one of the few places that do offer an extended return window... and I would hate Costco to put further restrictions on returns.
(Costco used to be unlimted on the time frame for computer returns.)


For those planning on buying thru HP directly.... unless they are running like a 1/2 off sale I'd go thru Costco since Costco's return window is 180 days... and HP's is 21. If the prices are anywhere close you'd be a fool to buy anywhere else IMO. After 21 days if you buy thru HP, you're at their mercy.


Examples of why you'd want to purchase thru a vendor with a 180 day return window, this is a very small sampling, but should give you an idea what to expect, what to prepare for if your unit needs service, or needs to be swapped out.

HP has no CD/DVD replacement till Feb. 7, 2007 (todays date 11-29-2006)
Poster has done a "restore /recovery" as per HP tech support, wiping drive clean, putting unit back to as-shipped condition to verify it is a hardware problem, now can't install needed apps back onto the machine -

http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?p=1685217

DV8000 Series - Keyboard problems. Anyone else? -MAKE SURE TO READ THRU THIS THREAD, and ask yourself if you'd want to be in the same boat as these poor souls...

http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=57325

OWNERS OF HP NOTEBOOKS WITH DEFECTIVE KEYBOARDS (dv8000 & dv5000 & equivalent models) reporting page. (Mods here trying to work up a database of owners with problematic keyboards, getting poor service from HP...)

http://forum.notebookreview.com/announcement.php?f=3&a=11


http://forum.notebookreview.com/showpost.php?p=1694866&postcount=1

HP Not honoring extended warranty claims: having warranty issues with HP over my ZV5346us laptop....
http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=91675

............................................................................



Why should people care if Costco takes a loss? / that a problem is slated as the reason for the return so the MFG takes the loss instead?

Two reasons:

1: Well indirectly such losses affect us all in the form of higher prices, further restrictions on returns...
(Costco used to have a lifetime return window on computers, but college age kids mostly would buy a machine, use it for 6 months for a class, then return it, demanding their money back after using the machine for "free" for 6 months.)

2: I'm of the mindset that if there is a problem, the MFG should be charged back the loss, not the reseller... here's an example in which the mfg should bear all costs: http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=57325

It's only right on a defective unit (or model) that the mfg take the loss... and "helps" to speed up a "fix" to a problem (like noted above) to a model that is "problematic".


Bottom line is don't return a unit, unless you have exhausted all options.. and be sure to state there is a problem with the unit, so it's not marked resaleable... Otherwise you can expect in the future further restrictions on returns, hassles, and increased prices...


BTW: If anyone has an "insider info" on how HP credits back vendors on product, please feel free to comment if any of the sections are in error (PM me with the data). I don't work for Costco, all the info above is from several conversations with management regarding how Costco handles returns.
.

 

.
Which is the limiting factor if I'm a "gamer"? GPU, or the CPU?
On most systems the GPU - aka "the Video card" is going to be the limiting factor. Read thru below links.

The Mobile Graphics Card Info Page **READ BEFORE POSTING**
http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=39568


Mobile Graphics Cards - Benchmark -See where your card ranks speed wise

http://www.notebookcheck.net/Mobile-Graphics-Cards-Benchmark-List.844.0.html

Mobile laptop GPU comparison chart

http://www.killernotebooks.com/support/support_mobile_gpus.aspx

The Mobile Graphics Card Info Page

http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?p=1246649


Upgrading a Graphics Card?
http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=41454

Notebook Video Graphics Card Guide 2006
http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=65548



*****************************************

DVI, HDMI AND HDCP DEFINED

DVI, HDMI AND HDCP DEFINED

DVI, launched in 1999, is a purely digital interface that transmits visual data from a source device to a display. With DVI, there is no digital-to-analog or analog-to-digital conversion that needs to take place before, during or after transmission. This streamlined, straightforward process makes DVI superior to other interface connectors, such as analog.

Inferior Analog

With due respect to the common analog transmission technologies (VGA, XGA, SVGA, UXGA), DVI is generally considered to be the better transmitter primarily because analog is sensitive to the phase changes of cable. Simply stated, the analog picture cannot be reproduced as accurately as the digital one, particularly at distances. Analog cables are also generally more intolerant to environmental conditions and can add “noise” among other anomalies.

USB and FireWire

There are two other data transmission interfaces that are competing with DVI’s preferred status: IEEE 1394 FireWire and USB (universal serial bus) 2.0. Yet both of these use some form of compression. When a signal is compressed, transmitted and then uncompressed, it has more potential for difficulty than one that is sent uncompressed, like DVI. Although both FireWire and USB are often used to connect cameras and other DTV (digital television) devices, neither is the format of choice for large panel high definition displays.

DVI’s Reign

DVI emerged as the preferred connector because it’s purely digital. This means the integrity of the video signal remains true through any transmission, even long distances. You may have heard that DVI is limited to 5-meters in distance, according to the DVI 1.0 specifications. But with solid soldering techniques, using low capacitance, thicker DVI cables and fiber optic interface technologies, the distance of DVI transmission is not limited and can extend as far
as 500-meters from the source to the display.

HDCP: No More Piracy

With the advent of DVI, however, came HDCP (High-bandwidth Digital Content Protection), a standard "key" encoded into the DVI signal to prevent video data from being pirated. HDCP was strongly endorsed by the entertainment industry. If a source device is HDCP coded and is connected to a HDTV display or projector via DVI without the proper HDCP decoding mechanism, the picture is relegated to "snow" or in some cases, a very low (480P) resolution. In order to see HDTV with HDCP compliance, both the source and display devices must be equipped with DVI connections that can enable HDCP using "software key" decoding.

The New HDMI

Now enters HDMI (high definition multimedia interface), a new connector that bases itself on the DVI-HDCP model. HDMI with HDCP addresses the concerns of the Hollywood film community while providing consumers the ability to view high quality content on all HDTV displays and projectors. It also offers several features that make it perfectly suited for the consumer electronics market:

- supports uncompressed high definition video plus multi-channel audio in a single cable using a smaller connector that eliminates the need for multiple cables in home entertainment systems, simplifying installation and eliminating cross technology confusion.

- transmits uncompressed digital video so that the picture maintains a high quality of color depth, brightness and contrast.

- supports Consumer Electronics Control (CEC) based on the AV.link protocol so it can be controlled with a universal remote that is used with multiple HDMI sources such as DVD players or satellite set-top boxes.

- supports bi-directional communication between devices, allowing the DTV to communicate its preferred audio/video formats to the set-top box, and the set-top box to communicate what video format it is providing to the display. This enables the DTV to make intelligent decisions on how to render any given image in the format designated by the original film providers.

- supports every uncompressed standard, enhanced and high definition video format ranging from 480I to 480P, 720P, 1080I and 1080P as well as existing PAL formats.

- has the bandwidth to support compressed audio formats such as Dolby Digital, Dolby Digital EX, DTS, DTS EX and uncompressed formats (PCM audio) up to eight channels, up to 192kHz, up to 24-bits.

- supports most standard PC monitor formats, such as VGA, XGA and SXGA—all in a single HDMI cable.

- extends as far as 500-meters using proper cabling techniques. In most commercial and home theater installations, the consumer electronics components are installed in a closet or basement far from the actual displays. This makes cable length an important feature for consumers and installers.

Because of these advantages, HDMI is expected to become the standard digital interface for consumer home theater devices, computers systems
and DTVs. Already, HDMI is being featured on Silicon Image's new PanelLink Cinema chipset providing HDMI with HDCP for a high definition
content-ready solution, and consumers will likely see HDMI connectors on new electronics devices for many years to come.

http://www.gefen.com/kvm/support/dvihdmi.jsp

*******************************************************

What is HDCP?

What is HDCP?

HDCP stands for High-Bandwidth Digital Content Protection, a copy protection scheme to eliminate the possibility of intercepting digital data midstream between the source to the display. The format designed by Intel and licensed by Digital Content Protection, LLC using an authentication and key exchange procedure before video and audio is presented. Products compatible with the HDCP scheme such as DVD players, satellite and cable HDTV set-top-boxes, as well as few entertainment PCs requires a secure connection to a compliant display, the process often described as the handshake. Due to the increase in manufacturers employing HDCP in their equipment, it is highly recommended that any HDTV you purchase is compatible. Although most video devices support high-definition video over component output, analog connections are scheduled to phase out in the future or possibly forced to limited resolutions output.

Why is it important to me?

Although manufacturers are still making most products with at least component HD output, new generation of products like HD-DVD and Blu-Ray devices will limit the analog output resolution (Analog defined as Component or RGBHV). The highest resolutions these devices can output (720p/1080i/1080p) will be available on via the digital (DVI or HDMI) connections that employ HDCP encryption. Any new HDTV purchase should have a digital HDCP compatible input.

It is important to note that HDCP is currently not a standard used in PC monitors, and almost none of these displays have Component inputs. Although PC monitors are HDTV capable, HDCP encryption limits this type of use. If you use an HTPC and want to ensure dual use of your new flat panel display, look for HDCP compatibility.



How does it work?

A simple answer is that an HDCP session will result in the exchange of keys between the source and display device. The source device will query the display to make sure that the equipment is HDCP compliant before video is shown. Non-HDCP devices such as PC's and older model DVI products will work with any DVI compliant display, but the HDCP compliant boxes will show an image only on HDCP compliant display.

Other products affected by HDCP are scalers, switchers, and splitters (distribution amps). While these devices do no authentication for key exchange, they must be able to transmit the presence of HDCP if the video is handled (processed) in any way. Due to the two different formats of digital connections, occasional inability for proper communications may result in loss of interoperability. The newer format, HDMI was designed to be backwards compatible with DVI and in most instances, the two signal types are easily adaptable, but older devices may not always work well with in-line devices like scalers or switchers. These problems can sometimes be fixed in "firmware' although that is not always the case. Incompatibility is often displays on-screen as a snowy image or an error message. http://www.digitalconnection.com/FAQ/HDTV_12.asp



Defining High-Definition and HD-Ready TV
http://www.digitalconnection.com/FAQ/HDTV_6.asp
What programs are available on Digital and High-Definition TV
http://www.digitalconnection.com/FAQ/HDTV_11.asp
HDTV Decoders and Set-Top-Boxes
http://www.digitalconnection.com/Archive/HDTV_8.htm
Standard or Widescreen Aspect Ratio
http://www.digitalconnection.com/FAQ/HDTV_7.asp
What's the Frequency, Kenneth?
http://www.digitalconnection.com/FAQ/HDTV_10.asp

How to connect your PC to a Digital TV with a Transcoder http://www.digitalconnection.com/FAQ/HDTV_4.asp

Guide to PowerStrip Custom Timings and Resolutions http://www.digitalconnection.com/Support/cliffnotes_17.asp

 

http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=91129

making a clean Windows XP Install cd for your compaq v3000z

---------------------------------------------------------------

Burn the restore DVDs - better use a DVD burner because using
CDs takes 15 blank CDs, you can use an external DVD burner,
make copies of them and keep them in 2 different, safe places,

Download all the drivers from HP, except the nvidia stuff,
go to laptopvideo2go.com for the video drivers, make shure
to get the "modded INF" file, and go to nvidia.com for the
chipset drivers - you also need the
"Microsoft Universal Audio Architecture Bus Driver for High Definition Audio"
its "sp32646.exe" its at HP - make shure to burn a copy, or save your
drivers that you just downloaded

find the "i386" folder on your hard disk, AND the "swsetup" folder,
burn both to DVD, You may want to make more than one copy of
each DVD/CD and keep them in 2 different, safe places,

Download "Belarc Advisor" at " www.belarc.com/free_download.html"
its freeware, and use it to find system info, like your CD KEY, you might
want to save the web page it makes, so you have a record of before and
after the reinstall - copy that page to another computer or print it out

The key you need to reinstall, is different than the one on the bottom
of your laptop, thats why you need to save that info

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

go to " http://www.nu2.nu/download.php?sFile=bcd111.zip" and download
"bcd111.zip"

go to " http://www.nero.com/nero6/eng/WNASPI32.DLL.html" and download
"WNASPI32.DLL"

go to " http://www.nu2.nu/download.php?sFile=wxp10.zip" and download
"wxp10.zip"

extract "bcd111.zip" - I extracted to "c:\bcd111"

extract "wxp10.zip" into the folder that was made by extracting "bcd111.zip"

the folders should be like this

\bcd111\bin\

and

\bcd111\cds\wxphome

and

\bcd111\cds\wxppro

put the "WNASPI32.DLL" into the "\bcd111\bin\" folder

If you have Windows XP Pro, put the 'i386' folder into "\bcd111\cds\wxppro"

If you have Windows XP Home, put the 'i386' folder into "\bcd111\cds\wxphome"

in the "\bcd111\cds\wxphome" and "\bcd111\cds\wxppro" folders, there is a folder
called "files" in that folder there are 3 files "w2ksect.bin" "win51" and "win51ic"
you need to copy "win51ic" and re-name that copy, to "win51ic.SP2" - Now there should
be 4 files "w2ksect.bin" "win51" "win51ic" and "win51ic.SP2"



-----------------------------------------------------------------------


Now the fun part.

Click in the start menu, click on run, type in "cmd" and hit enter
now find were the "\bcd111" folder is, mine was extracted to "c:\bcd111"
so I typed in "cd c:\bcd111"

put a blank CD into your burner

If you have Windows XP Pro, type "bcd wxppro"
If you have Windows XP Home, type "bcd wxphome"

and press enter

you now have a Windows XP install CD

make copies of it, and keep them in 2 different, safe places,

if you want the ISO file - dont insert the blank cd - and look at the text
in the command window for the ISO location - just copy it some ware else

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Installing windows and Quick Play


Boot with the Windows install cd

delete all partitions

now create a partition in the unpartitioned space - press C
You should see "Create partition of size (in MB):" and that
number is how much free space you have, take that number and
type it into a caculator, minus 1028mb, like this
"29317 - 1028 = 28289" yours will be different, that is what
size to make your partition

I tried a few times and had problems getting it just 1028mb,
- you can have a larger partition for quick play than 1028mb,
thats what I did, my quick play partition is 1038mb,

now just setup windows normal after that

Installing Quick Play is easy

you will need that DVD with the "swsetup" folder,
in the "swsetup" folder, is a folder called "HPQPDP",
run the setup in that folder, and it will install
quick play

Good Luck


------------------------------------------------------------------

I used "http://www.nu2.nu/" to find a lot of this info
and also "http://forum.notebookreview.com/" and
"www.google.com" for the rest

Any corrections, just post them here and I will edit my post Thanks

 

.

Are you outside your return window? Need to send the unit in for "repair"?

You would be well advised, to:

A: Make copies of Proof of Purchase, warranty , extended warranty documents, and if you can make a pdf of website showing details, warranty info.

B: Before sending unit in, take pictures of it, with a current newspaper in background showing date, major headline... AND write up a short document stating the condition of the unit, any damages or lack there-of and go down to your local BANK with the unit in hand, the pictures (numbered to match sections in the document stating the condition- Top, bottom, side, front, rear, Open, closed, etc) and show the unit and pic'ss to the bank's notary, and have he/she sign off on each picture, and notarize the document.

TIP: Wouldn't hurt to have the notary stamp/sign the back of EACH picture... so the picture becomes part of the document.
(Proof thereof that the pictures match the document describing the condition of the unit)

Why bother?
There have been quite a few reports of people sending in a unit that is "perfect" getting them back damaged.
With a signed, notarized document with pic's, numbered to show condition you are going to have less of a fight if your unit comes back damaged!!!

Most banks will do this for free.... especially if you were to show the notary posts in the dv8000 keyboard thread about how people are getting the run around!


****************************

 

Costco CTO link:

PRO's:

You can CTO a unit (Custom to Order) picking the parts /OS you want. Units are shipped DIRECT from the HP factory in CHINA... which is a plus over getting a "pre-built" because you get the hardware that has the latest revisions, bug fixes... CTO units take about 3-4 days to get built and another few days to reach you.

CON's: takes about 7-10 to build + be delivered. Costco also has pre-builts in store, or via the web for pickup, shipment.

www.COSTCO.com and here is the CTO link: http://www.costco.com/CTO/HPLanding.aspx?Prodid=10029570&whse=BC&Ne=4000000&N=4017749&Mo=1&pos=9&No=1&Nr=P_CatalogName:BC&cat=28163&Ns=P_Price|1||P_SignDesc1&Sp=C&ec=&topnav=



Time frame expect an CTO Costco order to arrive,

I CTO'd a unit a few months ago, ETA was the 12th.... Placed the order the 3rd, was shipped the 7th on a Friday at 3:54pm Fed-Ex picking up AFTER the Fed-Ex cut-off... and it arrived the 10th East Coast U.S.A by 8:30am delivered to my home.

Repair /return options on units purchased thru COSTCO:

If you get a unit with problems you can send it in for 'repair", OR you can just return it and then re-order.... Another option is to order the replacement first, since there will be a delay of 7-10 days it takes to build and ship a CTO unit..... OR you could pick from in-store models to buy...

.

 

The only problem I see with Costco is that they do not offer the student discount that HP does.

 

.

You get a bad unit and any difference in price, unless you got like 50% off will be a moot point.

Most people that have priced a system taking into consideration tax, shipping, and the various extended warranty options thru COSTCO find that the price is very close... even considering a student discount. For those of us working people who aren't students Costco beats HP price on every machine I've CTO'd.

On your idea on buying thru HP direct.... unless they are running like a 1/2 off sale I'd go thru Costco since Costco's return window is 180 days... and HP's is 21. If the prices are anywhere close you'd be a fool to buy anywhere else IMO.
After 21 days if you buy thru HP, you're at their mercy.

Examples:

HP has no CD/DVD replacement till Feb. 7, 2007 (todays date 11-29-2006)

http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?p=1685217

DV8000 Series - Keyboard problems. Anyone else?

http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=57325

.

 

This is pretty much all I see you post, for every one of your posts...

 

Thats why I was posting it here, so instead of having to type up all that crap I can just link to it. I'm tired of wasting time with some of these turkeys, going back and forth with them, finally getting out of them that on a $1,000 to $2,000 machine the price differance is $50-$75...because of a student discount, or whatever.

For anyone that's considering a "consumer" grade model, they'd be a fool to purchase from HP directly.... again if the pricing was close...

Consider also the time frame of year. Right now alot of people are looking to buy for Christmas and DON'T KNOW about the various issues, crappy service, or return polices of the differant vendors out there.

Say for example on that nx9420... If a place was selling them with a 180 day return window, other vendors only offering 21 or 30... and that model was having some problems with it, like people are having in the dv8000 keyboard thread..... Wouldn't you want to know which vendors to buy from and which to say away from?


How about you list the return polices of vendors you may know of, lets see how they compare...

Most all vendors are only going to give you only 21 to 30 days, after that you're at the mercy of whatever mfg.


.

 

Well, it just seems like it's all you are now. I mean, come on. It's your sig... No offense, but it's kinda starting to feel advertising-ish.

 

Once again... I'm tired wasting time making people aware that it it very important to purchase from a company with a good return window...

That being said I'm sure a "newbie" would apperciate being pointed in the right direction.

How would you like to buy a new unit, then on the 22nd day start having problems and discover you are in the same boat as those in the dv8000 keyboard thread? You being at the mercy of the mfg, you fighting with them to get it fixed, sending it in multiple times..... and like some each time you get the unit back it's damaged?

Please do expand on that... Wouldn't you if you were looking to buy a unit want to know of the return polices from vendor to vendor, and have it pointed out to you there is a pretty good chance you may indeed need to return a unit?

Wouldn't you want to be informed BEFORE the purchase of all of that, informed that consumer grade models have a VERY short production cycle, are used as the "testing bed" for new ideas and unproven hardware... Before you purchased one?

BTW: I don't work for Costco, Nor do I profit in any way. The orginal point of this thread was to make people aware of the issues when returning product to COSTCO so the mfg (HP) gets billed back for defective product.


One last thing: The reason I put the comparison chart listing the return window of major vendors in my "sig" was to keep from typing up such info on a person to person basis... so people can make up their own minds.
(For those reading this thread now that sig has been edited out as it seems there are HP stockholders here, or people that benefit from people buying a HP, and not being able to return it past 21-days.)

.

 

Another small reason that you also might want to consider buying from HP: free printer. Keep in mind that I am not arguing against Costco, I just want to make sure people realize that HP has some definite pros as well.

 

.

Yes, Hp may offer a free printer.... (I think I talked with you on that in another thread?)

Yes HP offers a free printer/bundles...(with that being said the Costco site usually mirrors what is posted on the HP site... at least on the CTO, Custom to Order machines, so they may have such bundles also).

Before you jump on a free printer making that a deal maker or a deal killer you need to realize that most of the time the free printer is going to be one of those printers that take those dinky little cartridges, and the cost to run that printer is going to eat you alive.

(That's why they give the printer to you "free")


Just to show I give equal air time and I'm not "all" about Costco.... I got a e-mail from OfficeMax today:


HP Pavilion DV61250M-B Notebook PC / Printer / Camera Bundle

Item # 21167336 ,
Style # DV6125OM-B

EA $999.98


This OfficeMax exclusive bundle includes an HP Pavilion DV6125om-b Notebook PC, HP Photosmart 3180 Printer, and HP Photosmart E427 digital camera all conveniently packaged in one box. It's the total mobile solution for Work, Home, or School.

Delivering portable digital entertainment and powerful computing, the HP Pavilion DV6125om-b notebook combines innovative entertainment features and the latest technologies. Optimized for mobility, its sleek 6.8 lb. design features a 15.4" high-definition BrightView widescreen display, AMD mobile technology, and leading-edge integrated wireless LAN connectivity.
http://omximages.officemax.com/pdf/misc/dv6125om.pdf

Looking for that perfect machine the HP Photosmart C3180 All-in-One printer, scanner, copier can meet all your photo printing needs, not to mention your document printing needs . . . and do a whole lot of other stuff, too? You can print photos right from your camera via memory card (no need for a PC). Use the included HP Photosmart Express software to edit each shot and organize the whole lot. You can print, scan, and copy with ease, and you'll love the results you get -- fast, convenient, reliable!
http://www.shopping.hp.com/shopping/pdf/q8160a.pdf

If you want point-and-shoot simplicity combined with true-to-life-color photos, check out HP's Photosmart E427 Digital Camera. With 6 megapixels and 5x digital zoom, it clearly captures your subjects. You can see your shots and video clips-whether you're indoors or out-on the 2" display, and the intuitive button layout makes everything a breeze.

http://www.shopping.hp.com/shopping/pdf/l2437a.pdf

.

 

WeAReNotAlone, thanks for putting the time out to help others. This might seem repetitive.. but at one point i was looking for something like this but it wasn't availible. I have found some of your post to be very helpful, both on nbf and here on the forums.

Anyways i could have purchased through hp to get the student discount.. but after reading different user experiences.. i figured that spending 50-60 more for the 180days wouldnt hurt.. Just incase something fails.

My last purchase was through costco, a dv8000t. Four and a half months into my purchase.. the computer died (some kinda hardware problem?). I was able to return it at a local costco store... All i had to do was wait in line for about 5-10 mintues.. told them the problem.. and got my full refund (tax, shipping, etc...). I used a mastercard to purchase the system, but at the store they only accept amex.. so they gave me my refund in cash .

Try not to abuse it though, i have heard stories about someone returning $6000+ in computer/electronics... So whenever he/she checks out the register locks up and a manager has to unlock the register. He/she also said that the manager would ask questions like.. "Oh you're not buying a computer today?...

They do keep track of what you purchase/return.

 

Sorry, I don't spend money on "peace of mind" and if you can't see how this is slightly annoying, I don't know what to tell you. Yes, the info generally is slightly helpful, but not by much. A 21-return day window is fine, most probably find defects with their computer within the first day of receiving it, let alone twenty.

I mean, good hell, you've posted nearly a dozen essays on the same topic, at least. "We Are Not Alone" is a perfect name for you. Come on.

 

Also, what is this:

IT'S A FREE PRINTER!!!!

 

Fiver Took, Join Date: Oct 2006, total 16 posts


"Ummm,

1: You think it annoying to have to see those posts? You think those posts typed themselves? They bother you?

Talk about annoying, try debating people like you who you're trying to help, them saying it's cheaper thru HP due to a student discount for example, going back and forth, over and over again to find out the differance in price is like $40.... Gee $40 or whatever for the privilege of being able to take back a defective unit, get it swapped out that day, or get ALL my money back on a CTO order within minutes for 180 days .... No need to call HP and sit on the phone, run a restore wiping out all the data on your hard drive... go thru all the hoops to get a unit repaired, or fight with them.

In case you missed it the reason I have just in the past day or so put the comparison chart about the various return windows from differant vendors in my "sig" now is so I will not have to waste time typing up personal responses as I have before that you are refering to... You should be seeing less essays on the subject... I'm tired of wasting my time. You will more than likely see a short blurb, with a link to this thread so people can read for themselves the issues they should consider before making a purchase.

FYI: If the above short blurb, or any of my previous posts hurt your eyes, I think you can go into your user options, and select not to have any of my posts show up.

BTW: If a 21 day return window is "ok' with you I'm glad for you. For alot of people 21 days is not enough.
2: Yes I know I've been posting the same thing, reffering people to COSTCO because of the 180 return window they offer. Most people don't even know Costco exists, or offers "on-line" ordering of pc's...
3: A product is no good than the service after the sale, and frankly to make a long story short HP's "repair" service and their general treatment of customers stinks. I've spent many hours on the phone with them and would not consider purchasing from any place else, unless they were running a heck of a sale. I take comfort in knowing that if I was to get a defective unit, that I could instead of fighting HP to get it repaired, going thru all the hoops they make you jump thru... just return the unit anytime within 180 days.

.

 

Re: Also what is this..

The reason it's free is more than likely the cost of the ink will eat you alive if you use it much. I've read many posts from people that "know" printers that say such.

While a free anything is a bonus, if it's crap, it's crap.

.

 

Being in the states, you already have a much better deal from HP. Have you seen HP's 7/14 day return policy in Asia? That's ridiculous.

 

7/14... Well according to Fiver Took who posted above that should be plenty of time to test the unit out. (Just kidding)

Let me ask you, if you were in "the market" and you could find a vendor with a 180 day return window (and the pricing was close) would YOU want to know about that company?

And additionally would you want that company to stay in business /not change their polices?... Or would you want that company to go to a 7/14, 21 /30 day return window like all the rest?

Bottom line is we (the consumers) need to support those companies that offer the longest return windows on products as there are alot of issues that are only discovered after the grace period, be it 7/14, or 21/30.


Here's some info from someone that works own /owns a shop in reference to HP, and the current models:

Now, with the above being "out" there, Have you guys which are gung-ho on buying from HP and think 21 days or whatever is enough to test out a unit heard of "Tolerance Stacking"?

Google "Tolerance Stacking" if you don't know what it is.

.

 

joystik,

Thanks for your input, your expericance.... I ended up doing the same thing, and got ALL my money refunded within minutes. That's why I am a big supporter of buying thru Costco.

BTW, I've revised the first post.... Know it's long, but I'm trying to paint a picture here for those persons who haven't been hanging out here day after day, and on other boards for their benefit that may be in the market.

.

 

Thank you for taking the time to educate others. I, for one, think that this information will definitely help me make my next purchase. I have heard heard all about HP's crappy customer service. 180 return is awesome insurance to have for something that is expensive.

 

Over here in the EU, we have the 99/44/EC directive to cover our backs! HP doesn't seem to know anything about it!

I had a problem with my DV6000 series...

They took it for repair. 1 and half weeks later they gave it back and it still had that problem, plus they managed to kill the bluetooth. Then they told me that they replaced the motherboard and mics, *even* though they believe there wasn't a problem. Which is kinda funny because when I took it to the repair place, the techie agreed with me that there was a problem!

After a total of 7 weeks of messing around and emailing Mark Hurd "[email protected]" that if I didn't get a new computer that did what it was suppose to do (HP has to by EU directive 99/44/EC) or I'd seek legal advice.

They upgraded my notebook from a 1GB TL-52 to a 2GB TL-56 and threw in a 1GB PMP and a logitech fusion webcam as comp.

Don't bother with the online HP techies, they don't know anything about the machines. One *techie* even told me to download a new freeware recording program and that would cure the problem. They didn't seem to know what VoIP is!

I do know that notebook mics aren't as good a studio mics, but they should be at least as good as a cellphone mic and should be a lot better than a 1980s audio tapedeck!

After this, I'll never buy HP again that's for sure!

The main problem is that most people are just laughing off the fact that their mics aren't working. It's not like 10 years ago with built in mics. Today's mics are ment for VoIP, (even more so now since the webcam is between the two mics) you should be in shot and be heard well enough!

Know your rights and go after them. Talk directly to the complaints department, after dealing with the "techies". Coz then you've at least got ammo to say you tried them and nothing worked!

In the US I'm sure you'd could end up with more than just a PMP and another webcam for comp!

Yet again, if something you buy doesn't do what it says on the box, get it sorted, don't just sit around grumbling about it!

 

Unknown Device Identifier 5.02

http://www.zhangduo.com/udi.html

Freeware
Unknown Device Identifier enables you to identify the yellow question mark labeled Unknown Devices in Device Manager. And reports you a detailed summary for the manufacturer name, OEM name, device type, device model and even the exact name of the unknown devices. With the collected information, you might contact your hardware manufacturer for support or search the Internet for the corresponding driver with a simple click. With this utility, you might immediately convert your unidentified unknown devices into identified known devices and find proper driver on the Internet and contact the hardware device manufacturer or vender. Known devices recognized by Microsoft Windows will also be analyzed independent of the operating system.




.

 

.
Belarc Advisor - Free Personal PC Audit (Version 7.2a)

http://www.belarc.com/free_download.html

Belarc Advisor builds a detailed profile of your installed software and hardware, missing Microsoft hotfixes, anti-virus status, CIS (Center for Internet Security) benchmarks, and displays the results in your Web browser. All of your PC profile information is kept private on your PC and is not sent to any web server.

Q: Can I purchase a license to run the Belarc Advisor on my corporate network, or my customer's network?

A: We do not permit use of the Belarc Advisor for commercial purposes, however we suggest that you take a look at these products, which we do license for commercial use.

.

 

Partitioning Strategies
Backing up (imaging) your laptop /PC

http://radified.com/index2.html


http://radified.com/Articles/laptop.htm


Disk Partitioning tools:

http://www.seagate.com/support/disc/drivers/discwiz.html

 

Using SYSPREP to Create XP Pro Images

http://www.uea.ac.uk/itcs/software/xp/xp-sysprep.html

 

nLite
Windows Installation Customizer

http://www.nliteos.com/nlite.html

 

Symptom : While cd-dvd is in use computer largely unusable.

Info on a fix to slow cd-dvd rom access:

http://forum.notebookreview.com/showpost.php?p=1706207&postcount=1

Heya!

My problem was that my DVD ROM(VENDOR:HL-DT-ST MODEL: DVDRAM GMA-4082N REVISION: HQ04) worked all the time in PIO mode (basically computer is unusable when DVD-ROM works), thus it was pain in the ass to write CD-R no talking about DVD-R. I read in several place that people had same problem with this or similar hardware. (Also on this forum). However only solutions proposed were either to get new hardware or to ask for refund. But after playing around with BIOS and hardware controllers, i discovered that this issue is caused by Native SATA support. So here we go - solution lies here:
http://winhlp.com/tools/resetdma.vbs (Launch it, if you use Firefox then save it and launch it, restart pc)

Read about this problem more here:
http://winhlp.com/WxDMA.htm


*************************

DMA reverts to PIO
(Causing the computer to slow to a crawl when accessing the cd/dvd)

The stuttering DVD drive


Quick solution

If you're not interested in the details, but just want to fix this problem as quickly as possible:

Click here. http://winhlp.com/tools/resetdma.vbs
Despite any warnings click on the [Open] or [Execute] buttons as required to execute the file resetdma.vbs.
If the program found any ATA channel to reset, reboot your computer and test all drives.
Note that many CD and DVD drives only use UDMA-2, because their data rate is much lower than that of a hard disk. This is normal and no reason to worry.

If you are interested in the details, read on. The program tries to reenable DMA in the registry exactly as described below, for all suitable ATA channels. Windows then redetects the DMA status after the next reboot.


This article also applies to Windows 2000. (Peter Frank reported successful application on Windows 2000 with Service Pack 4.)

DMA is an abbreviation for Direct Memory Access, an access method for external devices where the data transfer is not done by the central processor, but by a small special processor called DMA controller. It uses a procedure called cycle stealing, where the central processor memory access cycles are delayed for very short times to intersperse DMA controller memory access cycles. Some newer, faster DMA modes are called UDMA (Ultra DMA).

The alternative, slow and inefficient data transfer mode is called PIO, Programmed Input-Output, where the central processor transfers data byte for byte or word for word. This requires many processor commands for each data word and therefore causes a high and unwanted processor load.

Possible causes for falling back to PIO mode
The most frequent use why a CD or DVD port falls back to PIO mode is a scratched or otherwise unreadable CD or DVD.

However, there are a few reasons why a computer may use PIO instead of DMA, particularly when it's the hard disk port that falls back, not a CD/DVD drive port. For example, David Duberman reported in 2005 that some Dell computers have DMA disabled in their BIOS by default for the second hard disk. So it is a good idea to check the BIOS settings first.

Other reasons can show up in the event log, so check this first and see if you can find repeated Atapi errors recorded. If so, you likely have a hardware defect. You can use the procedure described below, but your computer will probably fall back to PIO mode again and again, until you solve the underlying problem, which may be located inside the device, on the motherboard, or in the IDE data cable and its connectors.

The trap
Windows contains a trap in which quite a few computers seem to get caught sooner or later. The trap was described in a Web article whose link no longer works (and also in another one mentioned below):

The crucial paragraphs are:

PIO mode is enabled by default in the following situations:
...
For repeated DMA errors. Windows XP will turn off DMA mode for a device after encountering certain errors during data transfer operations. If more that six DMA transfer timeouts occur, Windows will turn off DMA and use only PIO mode on that device.

In this case, the user cannot turn on DMA for this device. The only option for the user who wants to enable DMA mode is to uninstall and reinstall the device.

Windows XP downgrades the Ultra DMA transfer mode after receiving more than six CRC errors. Whenever possible, the operating system will step down one UDMA mode at a time (from UDMA mode 4 to UDMA mode 3, and so on).
...

Of course, drive firmware being quite complex and certainly containing programming defects of its own, it is not all that difficult to produce such errors. In my case a scratched DVD and later also an unreadable (overburned) CD did the trick, got the drive to choke and Windows to disable DMA for good. Later my hard disk hiccupped just once and also went back to PIO for good.

I had been using my laptop for DVD viewing for years, until I inserted a borrowed and heavily scratched DVD. The player and apparently even the DVD drive choked on it, and when I finally got the DVD to play, I found that playing was jerky and processor load was 100%, roughly half of which was system overhead.

This indicated that the drive had reverted from the usual UDMA (Ultra Direct Memory Access) mode 2 to PIO (Programmed Input Output) mode. No amount of resetting or changing the relevant registry parameters from 1 (try DMA) to 2 (force DMA) helped. Stubbornly the drive kept using PIO mode, and Windows even changed these settings back to 0 (use PIO only).

The following text will refer to the secondary IDE port because that is more often affected, but essentially the same also holds for the primary IDE port, to which the main hard disk is connected in most computers.

Before you begin to work on the problem, log on as Administrator or as a user with administrator rights.

Check Your IDE Port Mode
First check what mode your secondary IDE port is currently working in. Go to Device Manager: right-click on My Computer, select Properties, click on the Hardware tag, click on the Device Manager button, click on the plus sign to the left of IDE ATA/ATAPI Controller, double-click on the secondary IDE channel, click on Extended Settings and check whether it is set to DMA when available. Directly underneath that setting is a grey field that shows the actual working mode of your IDE channel. You want the highest possible DMA or Ultra DMA mode there, and you definitely don't want PIO mode.

Normally you don't have to use the registry editor for this, because the normal settings are also available through the properties dialog for the IDE port, but if you want to look at it anyway, the parameter for the secondary IDE port can be found through regedit.exe at

HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\HARDWARE\DEVICEMAP\Scsi\Scsi Port 1

It is named Scsi only for historic reasons. Scsi Port 0 is the primary IDE port, to which presumably your hard disk is connected.

After trying various remedies—in vain—I found the abovementioned article and went to work again. I uninstalled the DVD drive in Device Manager and rebooted, but that did not help either.

So I searched for more and better information, then I went on and did the following.

Re-enable DMA using the Registry Editor
My thanks go to my fellow MVP Alexander Grigoriev who taught me this method.

Run REGEDIT. Go to the following key:

HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Class\{4D36E96A-E325-11CE-BFC1-08002BE10318}

It has subkeys like 0000, 0001, 0002, etc. Normally 0001 is the primary IDE channel, 0002 the secondary, but other numbers can occur under certain circumstances. You have to go through these subkeys and check the DriverDesc value until you find the proper IDE channel.

Delete MasterIdDataChecksum or SlaveIdDataChecksum, depending on whether the device in question is attached as master or slave, but it can't actually hurt to delete both. Reboot. The drive DMA capabilities will be redetected.

Note that many CD and DVD drives only use UDMA-2, because their data rate is much lower than that of a hard disk. This is normal and no reason to worry.

2006-01-19 – Horst Schülke wrote that it is sufficient to empty the content of these values. But you can also delete the values entirely. Windows will automatically recreate them anyway, with new content.

Open Device Manager again and check whether the device is now actually using DMA mode. If so, congratulations, you've made it (at least until the next time Windows disables DMA).

2005-10-24 – TomᚠSouček wrote, if this doesn't work, check also the dword value MasterDeviceTimingModeAllowed, whose default value is hex 0xFFFFFFFF. If you have a much smaller value, you can try to set it back to its default and reboot for a test.

2006-07-21 – Peter Götz wrote:

It's three keys that work together:

MasterDeviceTimingMode
UserMasterDeviceTimingModeAllowed
MasterDeviceTimingModeAllowed

MasterDeviceTimingMode:

Queried by the drive. Each bit means a permitted transfer mode that the device is capable of. Somewhere at MS some of these bits can be looked up.

UserMasterDeviceTimingModeAllowed:

Has the same structure as MasterDeviceTimingMode and has the bit values the user configures in Device Manager. 0xffffffff allows all modes that are set in MasterDeviceTimingMode as well.

MasterDeviceTimingModeAllowed:

This entry is the problem child. Normally not present in XP, it is created as a reaction to errors. This entry has absolute priority.

These parameters also exist for the slave drive as SlaveDeviceTimingMode, etc.

One guess is therefore that simply removing the last value, MasterDeviceTimingModeAllowed, could cure the problem.

Alternative Method—Uninstalling the Port
1. Uninstall the secondary IDE port
To do that, open Device Manager as follows. Right-click on My Computer, select Properties, click on the Hardware tag, click on the Device Manager button, click on the plus sign to the left of IDE ATA/ATAPI Controller, right-click on Secondary IDE Channel, click on Uninstall. Deactivating is not enough.

Reboot to make the changes active and permanent.

After booting Windows will automatically reinstall the IDE channel and the DVD (or CD) drive. This Plug-n-Play process can take a little while, so give it a minute after the boot process finishes.

2. Reactivate DMA
But this is not enough, because unfortunately Windows does not automatically activate DMA on a DVD or CD drive. You have to tell Windows to try to use DMA first.

For that, go to Device Manager again. Right-click on My Computer, select Properties, click on the Hardware tag, click on the Device Manager button, click on the plus sign to the left of IDE ATA/ATAPI Controller, double-click on the secondary IDE channel, click on Extended Settings and change the relevant setting from PIO only to DMA when available.

On Windows NT and 2000 you now have to reboot a second time, but Windows XP applies the change instantly. Then you can go to the same place in Device Manager again and check whether the device is now actually using DMA mode. If so, all is well.

Note that many CD and DVD drives only use UDMA-2, because their data rate is much lower than that of a hard disk. This is normal and no reason to worry.

3. Driver is not intended for this platform
If you keep getting the following error message, please read on:

There is a problem installing this hardware.

IDE channel

An error occurred during the installation of the device. Driver is not intended for this platform.

2005-03-30 – Johannes B. wrote: The reason for this error is often that Daemon Tools or Alcohol 120% are installed. In this case the solution described below would not work. But when you uninstall these programs and then restart Windows, it will then install the device drivers without any further problems.

If these programs are not installed, then one possible way out is to rename C:\WINDOWS\system32\drivers\atapi.sys (or a similar path on your computer) to something like atapi.old.

If that's not possible, you can try it from the repair console (boot from the Windows install CD and select the repair console).

If Windows always automatically recreates atapi.sys, you can try renaming it in safe mode or from a command line window or you can try to rename or remove it in the driver cache as well.

Desensitize Your Computer's IDE Channels
There's a bit more to it. The following article offers a way to reduce the incidence of this problem, although it still doesn't solve it altogether.

IDE ATA and ATAPI Disks Use PIO Mode After Multiple Time-Out or CRC Errors Occur
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/817472/

Do read this article because it contains a useful long-term workaround. But you have to go through the procedure described here to re-enable DMA first. Assuming you've done that, insert the ResetErrorCountersOnSuccess registry values mentioned in this article into both the primary and the secondary IDE port registry keys as described.

Unfortunately this is only a half solution, because when you enter an unreadable DVD, you will get 6 errors in a row, and the IDE channel will revert to PIO mode, but at least when you pull out the DVD in time and then insert a good one, the error counter will be reset and it will at least be a bit more difficult for Windows to hobble your IDE drive.

A little warning: One user reported that by mistakenly putting the value into the parent key, rather than into one of the 0000, 0001, 0002, etc., subkeys, he was accused by Microsoft's Genuine Advantage check of using a pirated copy of Windows and therefore denied online updates.

Emails
I tried all the ideas mentioned (Registry hacks, deleting the whole IDE controller, etc), but my new drive still insisted on instantly reverting to PIO mode. In the end it seems that it was just incompatible in some way with the motherboard, and I had to add an additional IDE controller card to solve the problem. The extra card only cost 35 euro, so not too bad, but still annoying!
The motherboard is an Asus A7A266-E from early 2002 (though I have updated to the latest BIOS version). The drive is a Samsung Spinpoint 200 Gb, bought two days ago.

I have a ASUS A7N nForce Mainboard (latest BIOS) and I bought a Samsung Spinpoint 250 (SP2514N). PIO mode no matter what I tried (your tricks, different cables etc.). I used Knoppix to switch to DMA mode, but it reverted to PIO after some seconds.
Solution: exchange Samsung drive with other manufacturer (Seagate) drive (same size) --> works perfectly. As the other reader mentions, there seem to be some incompatibilities.
Tanks for your good website.

Useful info on re-enabling DMA. No more jerky video from primary slave! Thank you

Thank you for a very helpful article. After applying your fix I saw a 10x speed improvement!

Don't mention it!!! After months of trouble-free operation, DVD playback suddenly started to crap out on me, and your site was the only one I could find that remedied this problem. I had been trying to fix it for several weeks when I found it, and boy was I happy. I'm the one who needs to thank *you*!!! Thank you!!!

Thank you for the great page on DMA/PIO issues. I had a problem caused by Daemon tools that you covered on your page. Without your work I might never have solved this problem. I intend on donating again after my next paycheck.

You ROCK! Your write-up on Windows setting DMA back to PIO saved me. I was about to take a 12 gauge to my computer. My DVD player wouldn't work for **** (stuttering, dropping frames, etc.). I uninstalled my secondary IDE controller, re-booted, & problem solved. THANKS!

Your DMA reverts to PIO page relieved me from horrible sound stututustuttuttering. [...] Hard disk went from PIO mode back to Ultra DMA mode 5 when I uninstalled primary IDE channel in device manager and XP reinstalled it. Thanks.

I love you...
no i don't—but I'm really greatfull that you published this site [...] as I was quite desperate and 24 hours mentally down because my harddisk only managed 2,2 MB/sec (now, thanks to you: 66,2)
best wishes!

 

Does cosco cost tax in WI ?

 

Don't know, I don't work for them. They have a 1-800 number for Customer Service on their website I think, and you can e-mail them also... www.costco.com

BTW Most all vendors if they have a "presence" in a state will be charging tax.

Dell for example having say a little kiosk at a mall that doesn't stock units you can buy right then and take with you charges tax from what I've read. Something about at a Dell kiosk at a mall you can maybe look at a unit in person, but the transaction is still done online...

Ditto for online merchants who may have a presence, OR be shipping a unit from a warehouse in your state..

Should you buy from Costco? Is a 180 day return window important? That's up to YOU.

Well last night I had to go to Sam's and Costco... while at Costco I was looking at the offerings... Looking at a dv9xxx variant...

While there looking at it a older gentlemen comes up and we start talking.... He was the one who pointed out to me all that I've been saying above... He seemed to be into computers more so than the average person, him saying he was into photo editing, and had run benchmarks on his system... Knew that problems appear 2-3-4 months down the road and then your stuck with dealling with the mfg, He said he had called HP and said he was not impressed. He mentioned in reference to dv8xxx's he had the dv8000 keyboard problem.. bad display on one.
(Display stopped working about two months into ownership he said.)

Guess what else he said?...
He said he was mightly glad he bought from Costco as he's gone thru 3, or maybe 4 dv8xxxx's.... and I think he said he's been thru 2 dv9xxx's to get (1) good one.
(he was happy with the last unit)...

He said that 180-day return window was important to him.

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On the drivers you can go to HP.com and download the latest SP's (SP=Service Pack)

SP's shipped with machine are in the C\:SwSetup folder... The ones you download from HP directly may be newer, so no reason to cry about the loss of those so to speak.

There are /may be install programs for the various programs installed on your PC.... in that case a option is to use an external hard drive (or dvd discs) and head down to your local vendor, tell them you deleted the stuff by mistake, and ask if you can copy the contents to the EX hd. Should be about 35 gb... (if memory serves me right)

Another option if you haven't wiped the drive totally clean and still have the restore partition on the disc is to run a restore.... OR to use the "USER" created "restore discs"... to run a restore from them to put your system back to as-shipped condition... then copy the contents of the C\:SwSetup folder.

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Dropped your laptop?, or bumped the power jack and now it won't charge?

A/C brick not making a good connection?
Laptop won't start unless you push the power adapter to one side?
Unit turns off when you let go? (if battery is dead, or removed)
Jack moves back and forth a bit (loose)

Sounds like the jack on the motherboard has come loose.

http://www.laptopjacks.com/

Note that as a "work-around" most units will charge thru a docking port... so that might be an option for those that can't take the unit apart and replace the jack, or pay someone to do that... Price the docking port against the cost to repair.. against your needs for which option you choose.

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The PC De-Crapifier

The PC De-Crapifier is designed to remove a specific list unwanted software in an unattended fashion. Before running, the user may select exactly what software should be removed. Currently, it is targeted for use on most Dell machines; however it will theoretically run on anything that has the software listed below.
Here you can get the latest download of the PC De-Crapifier.

http://www.yorkspace.com/pc-de-crapifier/

Requirements

The PC De-Crapifier will run on any Windows XP variant, including XP Home, XP Pro and XP MCE. It will run on any Manufacturer, assuming it has any of the software installed that is listed below. The PC does not need to be new, however, the older the PC is, the less likely it will have any of the software listed below installed.




How it works

Simply download the file above. Open up the zip file and run the EXE. There is no installer necessary. If you have anti-virus software installed, it may complain about this program because it is written with a scripting language. These warnings can be safely ignored. I include the source code with every version. You may inspect it and run it directly from the source if you wish by also installing AutoIT.

When it runs, it looks for any software that it knows how to remove and presents you with a dialog box:



You may then pick and choose what you want to remove.
It will not begin removing anything without prompting you first!
Hit the “Process” button and it will begin cleaning your PC. If it does not find anything a pop-up box will notify you of this and the program will exit and not modify your PC.

Currently Uninstalls



The user can select exactly what is uninstalled from the list below

QuickBooks Trial
NetZero Installers
Earthlink Setup Files
Corel Photo Album 6
Tiscali Internet
Wanadoo Europe Installer
Get High Speed Internet!
Internet Service Offers Launcher
Dell Search Assistant
Norton Ghost 10.0
Symantec Live Update
MS Plus Photo Story 2LE
MS Plus Digital Media Installer
McAffee
Norton Internet Security
Google Desktop
AOL US
AOL UK
MusicMatch Jukebox
MusicMatch Music Services
Wild Tangent Games
Norton AntiVirus 2005
Norton Security Center
Norton AntiSpam
PC-cillin Internet Security 12
Run Registry Entries
Desktop Icons
Corel WordPerfect
Roxio RecordNow
Sonic DLA
Sonic Update Manager
Sonic RecordNow Audio
Sonic RecordNow Copy
Roxio MyDVD LE
Microsoft Office Standard Edition 2003
Quicken 2006
I can’t emphasize enough that you use this script at YOUR OWN RISK. If it hoses up your machine in any way, I’m not responsible! But Enjoy!

 

Should I buy now (12-2006) or wait a few months for the next generation of machines to come out?

New platform is coming out if you can wait called Santa Rosa:

In addtion to the below GOOGLE Hybrid Hard drives, Vista Dx-10...
Hybrid hard drives to example giving "instant-on" boot times+ better battery life..


Santa Rosa info:
http://www.notebookforums.com/post2496587-9.html


It's the next generation machines designed for Vista with improvements....
800, vs 667 bus, Hybrid hard drives, better gpu's DX-10... and other stuff..

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&sa=X&oi=spell&resnum=0&ct=result&cd=1&q=Santa+Rosa+Intel&spell=1


http://www.theregister.co.uk/2006/01/16/intel_centrino_roadmap/

http://www.techspot.com/news/20130-intel-santa-rosa-centrino-to-appear-in-2007.html

http://www.xbitlabs.com/news/mobile/display/20060419053800.html


Intel’s Santa Rosa Mobile Platform to Adopt EFI.

The transition to extensible firmware interface (EFI) from the widely adopted basic input/output system (BIOS) has begun with the release of Intel-based Macintosh computers, however, in the general personal computers EFI is still not used any broadly. However, this is going to change with the release of Intel Corp.’s next-generation mobile platform code-named Santa Rosa, which will use EFI instead of BIOS.
American Megatrends Inc. (AMI), a leading supplier of BIOS, announced at Intel Developer Forum (IDF) in Beijing, China, that Santa Rosa, Intel’s next generation Centrino mobile technology, will be the first of many future customer reference boards (CRBs) from Intel mobile platform group to offer Aptio, an EFI 1.1/UEFI-based firmware.
AMI Aptio is compatible with EFI 1.10, Unified EFI (UEFI) standards, and the Intel platform innovation framework for EFI which is Intel’s “product-strength implementation of EFI and UEFI”. Aptio offers a wide set of mobile features, such as enhanced embedded controller interface, digital thermal sensors, hot key support and quick boot. Aptio also supports the latest advanced mobile features of Intel’s next generation mobile chipsets, including innovative power saving technologies, advanced display options and dual-core processors.
UEFI (Unified Extensible Firmware Interface) is a specification detailing an interface that helps hand off control of the system for the pre-boot environment (i.e.: after the system is powered on, but before the operating system starts) to an operating system, such as Windows or Linux. UEFI provides a “clean” interface between operating systems and platform firmware at boot time, and also supports an architecture-independent mechanism for initializing add-in cards. EFI and UEFI are set to replace BIOS in future computers.
Intel’s code-named Santa Rosa mobile platform will feature code-named Merom processor with 800MHz processor system bus, new core-logic code-named Crestline which incarnations sport DirectX 9.0 shader model 3.0-compatible built-in graphics core, Intel NAND technology that boosts performance of hard disk drives, code-named Kedron wireless network controller compliant with an 802.11n standard, which will increase bandwidth to up to 600Mb/s, and some other innovations.

 

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How to rebuild a Li-Ion battery pack


http://www.electronics-lab.com/articles/Li_Ion_reconstruct/index.html



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Creating a Windows Installation CD from your Recovery Disk

+ Smart Tip for installing Windows with NTFS

http://www.easydesksoftware.com/recovery.htm#XP


Another option, instead of doing a CLEAN install may to be to use these tips to remove the bloatware:

http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=93899


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Deals:

BUSINESS CLASS machine info...
http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=56356

The differences seem to be similar as they were with nx8220 and nc8230:
- nx8420 has 1-year warranty instead of a 3-year warranty that nc8430 has
- nx8420 is not available in the US, but is available in other parts of the world
- nx8420 does not have a point stick, nc8430 does have it
- nx8420 does not have a serial port, nc8430 does have it
- nc8430 has HP Client Management Interface and a client manager software
- nc8430 includes HP OpenView Radia Management Solutions
- HP software is preinstalled on nx8420
- HP software can be installed and selected by user on nc8430

Stats by HP:

HP nc8230
Battery: 69 Wh
Average Operating Power: 25W
Battery Life: up to 4 hours 30 minutes

HP nc8430
Battery: 69 Wh
Average Operating Power: 39W
Battery Life: up to 4 hours

In minimal use, you lose just 30 minutes. In average use, nc8230 runs 50% longer (see Average Power Consumptions). However, nc8430 is more powerful, so it likely performs faster in "average work".

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Here's a deal you may be interested in. NC8430
http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=86789&highlight=WeAreNotAlone
http://www.amuras.com/prodDetail.asp?PartNumber=J96048

Vendor Name HEWLETT PACKARD - NOTEBOOKS
Part Number J96048
Vendor Part Number RE798US#ABA
Description NC8430: DUO 2.0GHZ 1GB
AUX Description DVD/CDRW 80GB BT WL 15.4WSXGA
Media SYST
CPU NOTEBK
Unit Price, $.$ $1,299.00 (US dollars)
Weight, lb. 6
UPC
More Details:
AVAILABILITY: IN STOCK - 24ps
HP'S IMAGES
COMPUTERS ARE BRAND NEW, IN A FACTORY (HP) SEALED BOXES, WITH 3 YEARS HP' WARRANTY.
Designed for professionals who take their tools as seriously as their work, the powerful HP Compaq nc8430 Notebook PC combines cutting-edge mobile computing technologies, high-end graphics, and high-resolution displays into a thin and light package.
Dimensions (WxDxH):
14.1 in x 10.2 in x 1.1 in
Weight 6 lbs
Platform Technology:
Intel Centrino Duo
Built-in Devices:
Stereo speakers, wireless LAN antenna, Bluetooth antenna
Embedded Security:
Trusted Platform Module (TPM 1.2) Security Chip , SmartCard reader
Processor:
Intel Core Duo T2500 / 2 GHz ( Dual-Core )
Cache Memory 2 MB - L2 cache
RAM:
1 GB (1 1 gig dimm installed) / 4 GB (max) - DDR II SDRAM - 667 MHz
Card Reader Yes
Hard Drive:
80 GB - Serial ATA-150 - 7200 rpm
Optical Storage:
CD-RW / DVD-ROM combo - integrated
Display:
15.4" TFT active matrix 1680 x 1050 ( WSXGA+ )
Graphics Controller:
ATI Mobility Radeon X1600 - 256 MB
Audio Output: Sound card
Telecom Fax / modem - MDC - 56 Kbps
Networking:
Network adapter - Ethernet, Fast Ethernet, Gigabit Ethernet, IEEE 802.11b, IEEE 802.11a, IEEE 802.11g, Bluetooth 2.0 EDR
Wireless NIC Intel PRO/Wireless 3945ABG
Input Device:
Keyboard, touchpad, pointing stick
Power AC 120/230 V ( 50/60 Hz )
Battery Lithium ion
Run Time (Up To) 4 hour(s)
Operating System:
Microsoft Windows XP Professional
Manufacturer Warranty: 3 years
Condition: New & Sealed
* * * * * *
FYI: The story of the above being a big company had ordered a bunch, cancelled the order... the machines did NOT have a "fingerprint" reader... (All other "normal" versions of that model having a fingerprint reader)..
So the machines were marked down.
PS: Ram can be bought 3rd party and a five year can install it, so don't let the 1gig scare you off...

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* * * * * *




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Info on "the hole" in the Windows COA sticker

Microsoft redesigned their Certificate of Authenticity (COA) labels in mid- 2006, to support their Software Piracy Protection efforts.

The new COA labels have a transparent 'Port-Hole' which makes it more difficult to remove a COA label from one computer, and affix it to a different computer. The Port-Hole area is an irregularly shaped opening, and reveals fibers of the underlying paper and interwoven metallic threads. The overall appearance of this Port-Hole may suggest that a hole has been worn through the label, as in the picture below, which shows two COA label varieties.


Since the Port-Hole area of the COA is not affixed to the body of the computer, its edges may become further roughened, or even torn, during normal handling of the computer -- slipping it into and out of a carrying bag, for example. The Port Hole area may also develop some discoloration over time, including darkened areas similar to those shown in the picture below.




Despite its irregular original condition, and the wear and tear described above, the COA label remains a genuine proof of Windows authenticity.

For additional information about the Microsoft Certificate of Authenticity, refer to the following pages on the Microsoft website:

http://www.microsoft.com/resources/howtotell

http://www.microsoft.com/resources/howtotell/ww/windows/quiz_coa.mspx

* * * * * * *

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HP/Compaq OS (Windows) Reinstallation Guides

http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=73377

*******************************

 

Need spec's, documents, or a SERVICE and MAINTANCE GUIDE for your Compaq / HP ?.... Want to know how the unit comes apart?

Go to www.HP.com , type in your model number..

(Note the when a unit is "new" it takes HP a while to get info up on the site... My advice? Find a the "parent" model of the unit you have... Like a DV6105CA would be a dv6000"t", or "z" depending on the cpu. T=Intel, Z=AMD

*****************************
Need parts/ part numbers?
Trying to fiqure out if your unit can take a faster CPU if you ordered your unit with a "base" cpu, and that model was offered with a faster cpu as an OPTION?

Type in model number, then see if that motherboard, heatsink/heat pipe was used in the higher spec'd model, then of course check/read the bios notes to see if same bios is used in both.

HP PartSurfer

http://www.partsurfer.hp.com/cgi-bin/spi/main

************************************

 

The official external Hard drive Enclosure thread - Questions /Answers pertaining to the various hard drive enclosures on the market.

http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/messageview.php?start=0&catid=28&threadid=496281


****************************

 

Repairing the keyboards of Hewlett-Packard laptops

http://schwinger.harvard.edu/~motl/hp-keyboard/index-classical.html

Problem:
Suddenly it may happen that a group of keys on your Pavilion laptop (the most typical example is "G", "H", "Backspace", "apostrophe", and "F4") becomes intermittently insensitive. In some cases the problem only occurs when the notebook has been turned on for 10 minutes.

Explanation:
The Foxconn keyboard connector is poorly designed. As your computer is being used, it heats up and various materials in the connector expand at different rates. Consequently, the connector is moving. It becomes loose and after two months or so, some contacts are lost. Sometimes the problem can be solved temporarily if we apply mechanical pressure in the center-left region of the bottom side of the laptop.
A thrifty solution - reseating the connector:
Reseating the connector fixes the problem. Sometimes the problem returns after a couple of months; usually it is solved permanently. Don't be afraid to follow these instructions, HP laptop keyboard replacement is not difficult.


HP dv8000t Keyboard Checkup Guide!
http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=62011


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Cold Electronics - Seasonal Reminder
Protecting Cold Electronics

Recently, I received a call from a laptop computer user whose laptop failed to start normally. While troubleshooting the problem, the user mentioned that the laptop was left in a car the previous night.

http://help.its.maine.edu/news_old/seasonal/


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Testing programs

Note it is very important that during your return window that you run some "burn-in" programs on the machine and give it a good workout.... otherwise you may find yourself with a "problematic" unit on the 22nd day of your return window, and have to go thru the trouble /hassle of sending the unit in for "repair".

Burn-in =Stress testing..

Prime95
HeavyLoad
3Dmark
Super_PI
HD Tune
DeadPixelBuddy (This is a dead pixel test program. It allows you to easily test your LCD screen for dead pixels.) http://www.laptopshowcase.co.uk/downloads.php?id=1


*********************

 

HP QuickPlay info ...
Questions /Answers pertaining to QuickPlay - Note later versions talked about later on in the thread.

http://www.notebookforums.com/showthread.php?t=141817

QuickPlay Error code c000007f not enough space in QP part

http://www.notebookforums.com/post2501281-3.html
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by seaside1982
After reading so many posts, thanks all. I finally get me XP pro work. However, when I change to the QP 2.0 by pushing the sensor DVD/QP. I loaded sucessfully,but give out the following error before the QP menue comes out.
"unable to reserve hiberfile error:c0000"

****************************

 

VARIOUS PC TOOLS


CCleaner = http://www.ccleaner.com/

CCleaner is a freeware system optimization and privacy tool. It removes unused files from your system - allowing Windows to run faster and freeing up valuable hard disk space. It also cleans traces of your online activities such as your Internet history. But the best part is that it's fast (normally taking less than a second to run) and contains NO Spyware or Adware!

**********************************

Spybot-S&D

http://www.safer-networking.org/
http://www.safer-networking.org/en/spybotsd/index.html

Spybot - Search & Destroy detects and removes spyware, a relatively new kind of threat not yet covered by common anti-virus applications. Spyware silently tracks your surfing behaviour to create a marketing profile for you that is transmitted without your knowledge to the compilers and sold to advertising companies. If you see new toolbars in your Internet Explorer that you haven't intentionally installed, if your browser crashes inexplicably, or if your home page has been "hijacked" (or changed without your knowledge), your computer is most probably infected with spyware.

***********************
Ad-Aware

http://www.lavasoft.de/products/ad-aware_se_personal.php

Provides you with advanced protection against spyware that secretly attaches and takes control of your computer, resulting in aggressive advertising pop-ups, sluggish computer activity, even identify theft through stolen bank details, passwords, and credit card account numbers.

Key Features
User-controlled spyware removal
Customizable Scans
Code Sequence Identification (CSI) technology
Extensive Lavasoft Detection Database
ADS scan
Blocks browser hijackers
Quarantine manager


**************************************




NHC / Notebook Hardware Control - http://www.pbus-167.com/

Notebook Hardware Control helps you to: - control the hardware and system power management - prolong the battery lifetime - cool down the system and reduce power consumption - monitor the hardware to avoid system failure - make your Notebook quiet

***************************

CPU-Z
http://www.cpuid.com/

CPU-Z is a freeware that gathers information on some of the main devices of your system.

CPU
Name and number.
Core stepping and process.
Package.
Core voltage.
Internal and external clocks, clock multiplier.
Supported instructions sets.
Cache information.

Mainboard
Vendor, model and revision.
BIOS model and date.
Chipset (northbridge and southbridge) and sensor.
Graphic interface.

Memory
Frequency and timings.
Module(s) specification using SPD (Serial Presence Detect) : vendor, serial number, timings table.

System
Windows and DirectX version.


*************************************************

What are the timmings of the ram my machine uses?
Download CPU-Z, run and it will tell you.

You can also try: http://www.crucial.com/ for info.



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PARTITIONING TOOLS -Disk management..

*********************************

GParted live CD

Price=FREE, download the ISO (30mb) burn to CD.
How do you use it? Stick in cd-rom drive, reboot...

Resizes NTFS partitions
Mirror disk images
Move, create disk partitions

GParted handles Ext2, Ext3, FAT16, FAT32, JFS, ReiserFS, Reiser4, NTFS, XFS, and other filesystem formats.
GParted can detect, read, copy, and create partitions using those file systems - and, in some cases, can shrink, expand, and move partitions.

Review of GNOME Partition Editor (GParted)
http://www.linux.com/article.pl?sid=06/04/25/1917228

Get it here:
http://gparted.sourceforge.net/index.php

Or here:

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=GParted+Live+CD&btnG=Google+Search

********************************
.

 

How about Ultimate Boot CD or UBCD4Win? And, don't forget Bart PE.

 

.

Unit making a buzzing, or high pitched whine?

One thought is that it's caused by the cpu changing power states...

"Fix" being to obtain a copy of RMCLOCK, and play around with the settings:

Some people reporting it affects both AMD and INTEL cpu'd machines..?

Some people report that turning on ALL the USB ports, or turning then totally OFF reduces the whine...
(I think I remember something about the USB port issue being related to the Intel cpu'd units.... It's a known issue, and I think there is a offical "patch". You might want to check Intel, mfg's site to see if the patch may work for you.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=85477
http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=93548


http://forum.notebookreview.com/showpost.php?p=1652387&postcount=12

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