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    Dv8t possible salvage

    Discussion in 'HP' started by DarkLink418, Jul 24, 2012.

  1. DarkLink418

    DarkLink418 Newbie

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    What I own:hp dv8t-1000. P/n: NQ226AV. Intel i7 core PM55 chipset w/nvidia gt230.
    Bought with promotional upgrades on dv series release.

    I've had this thing for ages. Loved it so much so far. Put in new wifi 5100 chip, replaced fan/heat sink assembly. Fixed touchbar.

    Problem: I've had it for years, not really one to know how to necessarily mod a laptop per-se. But either low volt chip or bios chip fried.(probably due to electrical surge) the chip near LCD power zif point on motherboard with writing on it had a pinhole burned into the top. The rest of the motherboard is perfectly fine. I have a very old/outdated/semi-deceased enviro li-ion battery which holds a charger for about one minute. When the battery is in and ac is plugged in the laptop runs just as long as the battery lasts(as stated, not very long). Regular a/c won't start the Laptop.

    Problem discription: left my dv8 on a glass table, after playing a few hours of video games I was very very tired so I put it in hibernate (rather churmuginly leaving the battery in) and slept 4 hours. When I woke it was off, turned it on and it stayed on for ten minutes, then quit. Every time since its only lasted as long as the battery. Upon dissasembly and inspection fried chip.

    Final comments: currently I can't afford to do anything. It's beyond its warranty. Another mobo costs $175-200+. I want to figure out which chip fried #1, so if I do manage a new mobo I can prevent. I also need some working. Computer and after working a week installing fence/home remodel I received an old desktop. Mostly new looking compaq presario with intel celeron D 360. I'm hoping option #2 would be to place hdd, i7 and memory sticks into this old compaq.
     
  2. Gesher

    Gesher Notebook Enthusiast

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    Hi , DarkLink418
    I have a toshiba A65 since 2005 and
    a hp dv8 1090ev since 2009. its config is the same yours.
    It still works perfectly.
    I'm so wondering why your notebook has these problems!
    only thing i can say is:
    I take apart toshiba easily but hp is too hard.
     
  3. DarkLink418

    DarkLink418 Newbie

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    The hp dv8t I own in particular should have had a recalled battery. However, the reason I don't have money for a new motherboard is currently being jobless. I was thinking of digging through the nearby burrtec e-cycling and findings new mobo since I live in basically a retirement community. I never undervolted ( http://forum.notebookreview.com/har...arket-upgrades/235824-undervolting-guide.html) or otherwise modded my system beyond the basics, dv8t NQ226AV in my opinion should all be undervolted in my opinion due to the high chance someone can do something like burn out the fan, or have the LED touchbar zif slide down and short the mobo. I used to just think blowing compressed air or mobo cleaner into the vents would be well enough, but as a fellow dv8t owner I have to warn you that dustballs and other particuli are bound to get into the vent and stick somewhere in your system. So a once a year dissasembly( http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/c01910942.pdf) and clean of this particuli is doubly recommended by me. As far as dismantling goes, it isn't particularly difficult. Just get a sectioned container( sectioned containers - Google Search) for the screws. There are really only three different screws you need to remove, the dissasembly guide shows four/five? But the others are for taking apart the screen assembly which isn't required for a basic "dusting". A few shortcuts for a quicker dissasembly: you do not have to undo the hdd connector, but you do have to slide it out to get to the screw underneath. As far as I know the DIMM chips(two layered rectangular chips you can see by unscrewing the larger cover on bottom) don't have to be removed, the wifi chip does have to be carefully removed however to get the top cover off. The connecting wires to the wifi chip also must be "fed" through the smalle triangular opening. Make sure before you remove them you take a picture of how they connect to the chip and tag them(the chip sticker should label the black:1 main, the gray:2 aux) I know it seems difficult at first, but the only "difficult" part to me was removing the speaker cover AFTER undoing the bolts on the underside, and slowly and delicately prying the plastic circle around the keyboard. I can make and attach a video of an easy dismantling(provided hp doesn't mind). I can take it apart in under 30 seconds. Putting it together takes about a minute because you take it safe and slow and don't force anything. Just so you know, the motherboard is a VERY delicate piece, you don't really have to touch it to "dust" it with a soft brush or compressed air, but I would recommend you do not let your body transfer static electricity to the board. Any sweat and not specified water products(specifies being a special mineral water) could also damage the motherboard, so be calm(it's not hard!), and work in a safe environment(nice dry table). Or send it in to a mom and pop shop so they, or hp can clean it for you. As for my laptop, I just don't know what could have caused this chip to fry. I live in the high desert and as the day grows long it heats up outside. However, unless I had a problem before that, there should be no reason that overnight it power surged my a/c. Laying on a glass table and it didn't fall or come unplugged. It works(or would work) off battery power but not a/c. I've read of specific "unplugging"warnings that indicate one should not remove the a/c cord from the laptop while it is plugged into the wall(I believe in the dismantling PDF from hp's site I posted). However the battery receives power, the computer receives power from the battery so??? The chip writing led me to believe it was a Texas instrument low power chip, after hours of searching it might be so. The PM55 mobo chipset allows cheaper and less dependable chips. I filed down the "fried" chip and discovered the lower portion is burned pretty badly. If half the chip still works it sort of explains why I can get power from some sources but not others. I have not been able to successfully pin down if in fact it is a TI Low Volt current chip on a mobo diagram, since it's half good I had been hoping to reconnect possible melted connections but I'm about fed up with it, everyone else would just buy a new mobo(while I figure if I have to buy a new one anyway why not experiment SAFELY). The dv8t is wonderful but this chip makes me wonder. Which is also why I recommend you learn how to undervolt it in case your outlet surges etc. according to the link the lower current could prevent the mobo from building an excessive static charge and frying.