HP DM3 Broken Power Switch

Just found a bunch of DM3 owners here so I thought I'd ask (yes, I did search first with no luck).


Has anyone had their power switch break? Mine just slides loosely in the slot with no resistance, laptop won't power on.

 

Oddly enough that was a problem I ran into a lot with the HP machines when I sold them in the past. It could be as easy as the spring being off or the switch itself may have broken from the motherboard. Have you had anyone take a look at it yet?

 

I got it apart to take a look at it. It appears that the outside switch should rest in a tab that is spring loaded. This tab is broken off and it is smooth. It is on the same board as the usb ports and wi-fi button. I think this part number from HP should fix it.

580700-001 SPS-PWR/USB BD W/CABLE

Any other thoughts?

 

For future reference for people who has the DM3 or similar models with broken switches, you can just buy a "Nintendo DS Lite power switch" off of ebay for like $2 shipped (and thats from USA not China).

It is the exact same switch found in the DS Lite. You just need some really basic soldering skills.

 

Hi,

My DM3 power switch has broken and the shop are trying to charge me £170 (~$260) to fix the problem. I agreed to that but now they said they ordered the part from an EU supplier and it doesn't fit so they're going to have to order the part from the US.....

@DTN107

I like the sound of using a DS lite switch - did you need to do any special SMD soldering? Does the DS lite contain an LED like the proper one?

I figure I may as well give it a craic and it doesn't matter if I screw it up because the shop'll replace the whole USB/power switch/wifi switch board anyway....

Thanks,

Duncan

 

Duncan,
The switch on the Pavilion DM3 does not have an LED in it. The LED is attached to the circuit board.

I just ran into this today on my son's laptop and after pulling it apart I found the switch missing a small but important part......
Checked on ebay and amazon for the DS Light switch as suggested here (thanks) and while similar it is not exact as it has different mounting tabs, it would probably do... Looking at what has happened I think I could drill a small metal post into the plastic of the switch and use an adhesive to secure, barring a small metal post I could run down to the local hobby shop and get a headless screw and carefully screw that into the hole I'll drill. This may be easier for most than trying to remove the solder and install a new switch. My iron while meant for electronics would be too bulky for these micro contacts. and I think would be too much work. We'll see how I do. If I don't post back it worked.

 

That is the exact same what happens to mine any fix?? Thanks