*HP ENVY 17 & 17 3D (3XXX series) Owners Lounge*

I am unable to run a second display in portrait mode (off HDMI or DisplayPort)
I want to rotate my screen 90 degrees (portrait style a widescreen verticle for reading code easier)
The Catalyst Control Center option is greyed out, it is not available in Display\Screen Resolution either.



Quick Specs

HP Envy 17t 3200 Win7 Pro 64bit i7-3610qm 16gb
Radeon HD 7850M (8.951.9.1000) CCC version 2012.0326.310.3601
Intel HD 4000 (8.951.9.1000)

All Video drivers are current, I updated everything today (only had the laptop 24 hours now)



I read on another thread to regedit HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\ControlSet001\Control\Class\4D36E968-E325-11CE-BFC1-08002BE10318\0000 Display1_RotationCaps from the right Side and set to 1

http://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/Notebook-Display-and-Video/DV7t-with-Radeon-HD-6770M-Can-t-rotate-displ...



That did not work for me, the entry for Display1_RotationCaps also fell under \0001 for me. I also tried to edit Display2_RotationCaps, Display1_PortraitMode and Display2_PortraitMode in various reboots and configurations. No luck on any of these. I even created Display2_PortraitMode as it was not there.

 

What kind of battery life are you guys getting when it's on "High performance"? Were you just browsing the internet, gaming, or what during this test for battery?

 

To Smurf and mraufait...

Please don't think that I'm literally keeping the only copy of my data with me on my laptop... I just mean that I want to primarily manage it on the laptop, as opposed to managing it on my desktop, and inevitably forgetting something when I leave town.

You are both correct about RAID; I have learned to treat all storage as temporary, so I keep good backups. And again, I find backups to be so much simpler when I can just backup one single drive and press one button.

In so many words, I guess I'm saying it's a risk I'm willing to take. I'd be more concerned about the cost of replacing the drives than I would be about loss of data.

As far as NAS, I love the concept, but I get very frustrated with the reality. The fastest NAS on the fastest network is still way slower than the slowest internal hard drive. And I'm on WiFi, so the only thing slower would be a USB stick. Plus, you're completely dependent on your network to function, just to use it. And I never know what kind of internet connection I'm going to have on the road. I mean, I have Verizon 4G, but even that has a host of dependability, connectivity, and data limit issues.

I actually do appreciate you reminding me of NAS, cuz it's something I haven't thought of in a while. I'm not trying to be a jerk and deny a good solution. I'd totally consider an NAS type device for home media streaming, but not for reliable, remote data access, or even for primary storage within the home.

Funnily enough, I'm not a packrat, and I never bring excessive luggage, but I do like to have all my files with me. Some of them are important work files, some are pictures and personal documents... and then there's the really important stuff - MPEG files of The Hangover and Beetlejuice.

Oh! But I do love DropBox! DropBox has literally improved the quality of my life. No joke. I can access from my phone, tablet, laptop, desktop, even on unfamiliar computers with a web connection. And I still have seamless access to the data when I'm offline, which I consider mandatory. DropBox is the best of all worlds, and I have all the stuff that I can never lose stored there.

But then again, there's hacking and privacy concerns with DropBox. It will inevitably be hacked one day. Count on it. So, I mean I figure every plan has a hole in it. If I know the hole up front, I can handle it.

...and that's what she said. XD

 

I couldn't say, lol... there are too many variables, especially with the automatic switching graphics.

However, I tweaked my power plans from their out-of-the-box settings, and I'm getting about 6 hours of browsing/Hulu streaming on my power saver plan, and about 5 hours on Balanced.

The main power draws are going to be your display and your graphics card. I have my power saver plan set to force onboard graphics, so that even if I open a program that's set to use dedicated GPU, the power plan forces it to the Intel HD graphics.

 

Thanks for the kind words... You obviously understand RAID and .... So I guess I'm stuck like you as I travel as well and need a wheel barrow of files. Just no great answer except to have more money.

 

So, will you be short stroking the HDD's to optimize performance for certain programs?
OR
Will you do both HDD's as a short stroke, then RAID them as a C:\ (C+E) then have D:\ (D+F) as the final partition.
How to Partition Your Hard Drive to Optimize Performance
Raid 0 questions (short stroking and striping) - NAS-RAID-Technologies - Storage

Rock'n Dude,,,,,you got the lingo............
My Theory.....

• Keep your OS and primary programs separate from all the rest of the PC, this means NO partitions, keep it as defragmented (TRIM) and clean as possible.
• Movies/music/documents need only a 5200RPM HDD to run, they take up a lot of space, but still only run at the speed of a record player....
• Games/photo and video editing/astronomy programs/CAD/graphic design,,,,they really benefit from the speed of a SSD, ether SATA 2 or 3.

So, there you have it, 3 drives, each one doing their job.
ALTHOUGH,,,,
TRANSFERRING/RIPPING movies, really could use the speed of the SATA 3.
​

SENT VIA PM




.

 

I make it a point not to talk about stroking in forums. XD

 

Nice

@Gigabitz: Ok, I got that a bit wrong and thought you would handle your important data on a RAID 0. 99% of users I know don't use backups. And I must confess, since having a RAID 1 external drive for "temporary" and the cloud for my "important" data...I'm a bit lazy making backups.

Sure, DropBox, SkyDrive etc. will be hacked some day as anything else. But then try to use BoxCryptor or TrueCrypt. TC - if configured correctly - will just upload changes made in the container and not the whole container itself. That's nearly to perfect.
DropBox itself isn't that secure since the "basic" encryption is handled on the server and DB knows how to decrypt your data (except your extra encrypted data). Also, DB is allowed to hand out your data in serious cases, which does make me not amused.

But well, as you said, there is always a hole in the plan....but try to get that as small as possible

 

ROTFALMFAO...........

 

Nope, not interested in short stroking... simple RAID 0 - one logical disk, straight stripe.

You are obviously a very technical user. I, on the other hand, am not. Sounds like we have pretty similar levels of experience, but I walk a different path. I've tried out everything at least once to say I did it, but day-to-day, I run a pretty straightforward rig.

My absolute favorite drive setup is one disk for OS+Programs and one disk for data. And, the majority of the time, those disks are simple discs - ie, no RAIDs.

I always put my OS and my programs on the same drive, and I don't stress about it. And I don't manicure my registry - I tried to once, but I couldn't stop the entropy. So, I decided to not waste energy worrying about it.

(I also know that I start a lot of sentences with "And", haha - and I dont' care about being proper. It's ok to break the rules, so long as you know the rules, lol!)

My registry cleanup is very simple - I reinstall everything about once a year. It's become quite the ritual, lol, and I rather enjoy it!

So, to answer your question, no short stroking. I would buy a 256GB mSATA and just let my programs and my OS rub up against each other. They can fool around all they want to; I'm always in favor of that, lol.

And my RAID would just be one big, moderately fast, storage drive. Short-stroking would be pointless.

Now I said this before - I think a very interesting solution would be to setup the RAID with a pair of hybrids, so that way I would get the benefits of caching on my most frequently used data and media files, and the near-elimination of spinup-induced-wait.

Again - I like hybrids because they are simple - at least on the user end. I just plug it in, and it does the technical work for me. The only way I would not want a hybrid is in a pure-caching solution. I am not interested in a "true" caching setup, like some companies are marketing, where you install everything on one drive, and then install an SSD whose sole purpose is to cache your frequently-used files (OS, Programs, whatnot). That's where I would draw the line. Whenever possible, I do prefer to separate my data files from my system drive.

 

That is SO what he said! hahahahahahahahaaha

 

I have a lot of questions to be confirmed/answered below....

1. I've heard the heat while playing games is well handled and away from the WASD keys? Never burns up?
2. I've heard the 15" has some flex on the keyboard and I'm guessing its not present on the 17"?
3. Also does anyone have any experience with Hp's preferred account? Do they send you a credit card or do they just bill you?
4. If I go through with the purchase I will be buying a SSD, but I also want Windows 8. I'm guessing I would install windows 8 overwriting everything on the stock hard drive so it would be a windows 8 with no pre-installed programs. Then I would make recovery disks?
5. Windows 8 x64 takes up 20gb of space correct?
6. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=20-147-137 Decent ssd? Anything better?
7. Chances of AMD making drivers for the 7850m?
8. Chances of 33% coupon returning?

Thanks

 

1. Never gets very hot to the touch, even after hours of games. The fans spin up a little louder than I'd like, but not like a jet taking off or anything. Frankly, even the exhaust that blows out in front of the screen is only moderately warm.

2. There's a hint of keyboard flex in both. I think it's about equal. I never actually notice the flex while typing, but while cleaning the keyboard with the machine powered off, I can feel it flex. A couple keys were squeaky at first, but now, two weeks later, they're not.

3. No clue.

4. I don't really get what you're asking here. I don't get why the SSD is relevant to Windows 8, or how the recovery disks would factor in.
I'll say that, when you get your PC, make your recovery disks right away. You cannot reset the counter by doing a system recovery - so, just make a set and hold onto them.
As far as Windows 8 goes, well, it's not released yet. So, you've got a few months to sort out the particulars. It will likely be delivered to you as a digital download, which you can burn to a disc with an ISO burner. And you will probably have the option of doing an in-place upgrade, or a clean install. Everyone here is going to recommend you do a clean install. And then, you will need to go to HP's website and manually download and install the appropriate drivers to get your basic functionality of controls, media buttons, and utilities like the HDD freefall protector and the keyboard backlight control.
I have no idea if that answered your question, but again, I didn't really get what you were asking.

5. No clue. I'm personally not too interested in installing Windows 8 right out of the gate. I skipped Vista, and I was glad I did so. I'll probably wait till Windows 8.5 or Windows 9, which will fix all the things that will inevitably suck about Windows 8, haha.

6. The Samsung drives are in the high performance class, but they're not the highest, per se. That being said, you'll probably never "notice" the difference between any of the high end drives - they'll show up different in benchmarks, but not everyday use.
The leading drives, currently, are:

• Sandforce 2281 Based Drives with Toggle NAND (Corsair GS, others)
• Marvell-Based Drives (Plextor, others)
• Sandforce 2281 Drives with Synchronous NAND (Corsair GT, OCZ Vertex 4, others)
• Homegrown Drives like the Samsung 830 and the Crucial M4/Micron C400

The next step down from these drives is to drives with Asynchronous NAND. Even there, the performance is still really good, but the savings is insignificant, so stick to any of the four categories above. For more info, to go StorageReview.com - Storage Reviews. Their leaderboard is getting slightly dated, but it's still good for comparison sakes.

7. AMD has released drivers, obviously, but only through the manufacturers. So, I don't really get what you mean. AMD drivers always suck compared to nVidia, but that's just life.

8. It will eventually come back; it always has. Alternatively, see if they do the $450 coupon for CTO builds. I've seen that sometimes,and if you see it, then you'd be crazy to hold out for the 33% coupon.

 

Oh, one more thing - about SSD's...

The Sandforce drives are still the overall leaders in the market right now, but Sandforce drives have their own set of problems. Mainly, they never can seem to get the firmware quite right. At first it had instability and data loss issues, and then they fixed that. And then they had problems with performance degradation. And then they fixed that - sort of. And then some people started getting blue screens. And they fixed that. And the performance problems would still creep up over time, and they had to fix that again. And, it's still not 100% resolved.

On the other hand, the drives by Crucial, Samsung, and Intel (latest generation), are all competitively fast but not quite as fast as the others, bu their firmware problems are few. Since the drives are made either in-house or mostly in-house, you have the advantage of one company overseeing the product from start to finish, and they tend to have more balanced performance profiles, whereas Sandforce controllers tend to display very different types of performance for different types of data.

So, if you're not up to maintaining your SSD, you'd be well-advised to go with Samsung, Crucial, or Intel.

And, you have the option of mSATA as well on the 17" at least, but there are very few options for mSATA. They're all much more expensive than regular SSD's, and unless you're willing to do your own research and possibly clean up your own messes, steer clear.

 

BINGO!
WE HAVE A WINNER
I hate BETA versions of Windows (Vista).
After all, W7 was Vista SP3



.
​

 

Intel has the SSD Toolbox that integrates flawlessly with the i7 to do all the maintenance.
http://www.intel.com/support/utilitytools.htm



.

 

Great minds think alike...

I have a theory that every other version of Windows is worth using.

95 sucked, 98 was "ok"

WinME was the spawn of satan, and XP was very good

Vista was asinine, and 7 is the best version so far

 

Can we say "Fangirl"?

 

DITTO, DITTO, DITTO.... What he said.

 

Thanks a lot Gigabitz that was really really helpful! For #4, I was wondering how I would install the SSD if I buy Windows 8, but that was pretty much answered in your guess. Once again thanks for answering all those questions. Hp does have the $450 off on custom builds, but the total ends up being in the high 1200's.

 

1. Played games for hours, and the heat was fine. Well away from the user, and even still only warm air from both the CPU and GPU fans.

3. The HP Preferred account is just a line of credit from Web bank based in Utah. They don't send you a card or anything, just a monthly statement. Basically a credit account without a card. All the fine-print paperwork i've received (including their policy on interest accumulation) is exactly the same as my BOA credit account. Just make sure you pay if off before the interest free deadline and you're fine. PM me for more questions about the account

4. I strongly advise going Intel with the SSD. As others have said it will play very nicely and stay well behaved with the other Intel offspring at the playground. I plan on going with their 520 series Cherryville SSDs. They come with a 5year warranty and pack SandForce controllers.

7. I certainly hope so.

 

My Keyboard has very little flex if you are concerned about that. Coming from a almost 6yr old Toshiba Satellite laptop to this takes getting used to but definitely very nice.

 

Once again, I'd just say I strongly recommend you take the $450 and run with it. According to your build cost estimate, the most you could possibly stand to gain by going with the 33% off as opposed to the $450, is about an additional $100. And, for myself, I don't think it's worth taking the chance. The 33% is not always available - it's a special treat, but it's not worth waiting around for forever. Your money, but there's my two cents.

Also, to save a little money on your build, put in the base amount of ram - 6GB. You can add ram aftermarket for less than their prices, by a loooong shot. Even if you had the 33% off coupon, their ram prices are extortion-level. You could put in a set of 16GB DDR3-1600MHz from any of the top brands for just over $100. So, do your own ram upgrade. It takes two minutes and one tiny screwdriver.

 

Thanks a lot for #3 I'll pm if I have more questions

Thanks for the input

Yeah that is probably what I will end up doing later today. Do you know any good ram brands to buy? Also would I be adding on to the 6gb ram they provide (meaning there would be extra slots) or would I be replacing them? If it is adding onto the 6gb, does mixing brands mess things up?

 

You could argue that all the major brands are of equal quality - ie, they will all perform at their advertised spec, and they're unlikely to fail.

My favorites are Corsair, Kingston, Mushkin, and Patriot.

But you could just as well go with: ADATA, Samsung, PNY, G.Skill, Geil, Crucial, Wintec, or Transcend. They're all solid.

The Corsairs are interesting, because they are self-overclocking. They will automatically adjust their timings and frequencies to optimize your performance and squeeze out that last little 1-2% edge. They also cost about 20-30% more. So, in terms of dollars to performance, it doesn't equal out, but when does it ever?!

Personally, I originally planned on putting 16G of Mushkin in here, but then I decided instead to just replace the 2GB Hyundai/Hynix module (yuck!) that was in slot 1 with a Samsung 4GB module - the exact same model number as the 4GB stick that came from the factory. That was $28 shipped on eBay. So, now, I have two matching 4GB DDR3-1600MHz sticks of Samsung Ram, for a total of $28 after the build. I think the CTO option would have cost me like $60+, even after the discount.

 

Corsair Vengeance DDR3 Memory Kits Vengeance DDR3 Memory Kits and PC memory upgrades are designed using RAM specially selected for their high-performance potential

My preference, 8GB max, I will never use 16GB:
Vengeance® 8GB High Performance Laptop Memory Upgrade Kit (CMSX8GX3M2A1600C9) - Vengeance - Memory by Product Family

$57.00 wont break the bank,,,+$10.00 shipping:
Newegg.ca - CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 204-Pin DDR3 SO-DIMM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Laptop Memory Model CMSX8GX3M2A1600C9

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Could some tell me if this computer has a 80g Mssd accelertion cache or a msata 80g ssd drive
YOUR CUSTOMIZED HP PC



Envy17
• Genuine Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit
• 3rd generation Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-3720QM Processor (2.6 GHz, 6MB L3 Cache)
• Radeon(TM) HD 7850M Graphics 1GB GDDR5 Memory [HDMI, DP]
• 8GB 1600MHz DDR3 System Memory (2 Dimm)
• MSSD 80GB+HDD 750GB 7200 rpm Hybrid
• Microsoft(R) Office Starter: reduced-functionality Word/Excel(R) only, No PowerPoint(R)/Outlook(R)
• FREE 2-year Norton Internet Security subscription (a $99 value). Pre-installed.
• 6 Cell Lithium Ion Battery - Up to 5.25 hours of battery life +++
• 17.3-inch diagonal Radiance Full HD Infinity LED-backlit Display (1920x1080)
• Blu-ray player & SuperMulti DVD burner
• 720p HD video streaming webcam supports Skype
• Intel 2x2 802.11a/b/g/n WLAN + Bluetooth(R)
• Full-size Radiance backlit keyboard
• Adobe(R) Photoshop(R) Elements 10 & Adobe Premiere(R) Elements 10
• 2 year limited warranty included
• HP Home & Home Office Store in-box envelope

 

MSATA DRIVE for sure.

 

Ya, hardware-wise, it's definitely an mSATA drive plugged into a 6GB/s mSATA slot. Pretty sure the 80GB option is Intel, and the larger option (128GB???) is Samsung.

Function-wise, I don't know if it acts as a separate system drive or as a caching solution. There may be an answer in the forums about that already, or you may have to talk to their sales support.

Sales support may be an absolutely futile effort, so hopefully someone here who ordered it will know. Unfortunately, it seems like the majority of folks here order low-end specs and then upgrade themselves, so we don't see a lot of expensive HDD combos come through.

 

Ah so there are only 2 slots in the Envy 17" for Ram correct?

I'm guessing this Ram is compatible with the envy 17" 3610 cpu?
Thanks a lot for the link

 

Don't quote me on this but I believe someone posted that on the above order specs it is used as a drive, and the OS comes preloaded on it with the HD set up as storage. My guess is that is why hp decided the to make the MSATA slot one of the two possible 6GB ports ( but only HP truly knows that answer) as they were shipping two 500Gb SATA2 drives on the no refreshed model so it " made sense" to do this.

 

Ya, now that I know the mSATA functions at 6GB/s, I get it, and I actually like that setup. I mean, since the HM76 chipset only supports two 6GB/s ports, it would be pointless to use both of them on the full-size bays, while leaving the mSATA bay crippled for anyone who wants to use mSATA as a fast boot drive.

The way it is configured, it satisfies every possible combination that includes at least one mechanical drive - which is what nearly everyone is going to run. I know it sucks for that very small minority who want to RAID two full-size SSD's, but that's far and away a much smaller population. And, there are other laptops on the market without an mSATA slot, where you can RAID two full-size SSD's on dual 6GB/s ports.

 

It doesn't specifically say third-generation i7 (Ivy Bridge) compatibility, but there are a lot of people using those kits with Ivy Bridge and having no problems.

RAM is the single most picky component in a computer. It may say it's compatible up one side and down the other, and it can still fail in your particular system. And frequently, RAM that does not specifically claim compatibility with certain hardware, will work just fine.

RAM is just picky sometimes. So, buy whatever is the right speed and size, and try it out. Exchange it if it doesn't work.

I would say an absolute hell yes to buying that kit. I'd be astonished if it didn't work. Corsair RAM has a very high reputation for quality and compatibility, and they have earned it.

 

Yes, that's all correct.
Boot Drive, see below.
http://forum.notebookreview.com/hp-...3xxx-series-owners-lounge-94.html#post8434052
HELLO!,,,,,,,




.

 

Anybody try putting in two sticks of 8GB (16GB total) RAM yet? Any problems in BIOS/BSOD when booting, etc.?

 

OUCH,,,, the price just doubled on the Corsair site,,,,,,the lower price is still at the NewEgg site.
Time to purchase another set just as B/U.

 

Oh . I guess I have to purchase soon. Btw does the Envy 17" only have 2 RAM SLOTS?

 

Yes. Max 16GB.

 

Thanks

Limit

 

Oh, and I wouldn't say there's a "rush" per se in buying that RAM... it's held pretty stable at that price point, if you look at all the sites selling it. But you certainly wouldn't hurt yourself to buy it now.

 

2 slots
Supports up to 16384-GB of system RAM @ 1333-MHz,
Supports up to 8192-GB of system RAM @ 1600-MHz,


Supports the following configurations:
● 16384-MB total system memory (8192×2 @ 1600- and 1333-MHz)
● 12288-MB total system memory (8192×1 + 4096×1 @ 1600- and 1333-MHz)
● 8192-MB total system memory (8192×1 @ 1600- and 1333-MHz, or 4096×2 @ 1600- and 1333-MHz)
● 6144-MB total system memory (4096×1 + 2048×1 @ 1600-MHz)
● 4096-MB total system memory (4096×1 @ 1600- and 1333-MHz, or 2048×2 @ 1600-MHz)

Anything over 8GB and 1600 will get clocked down to 1333.
So,,,
8GB @ 1600 + 4GB @ 1333 will give you 12GB @ 1333

 

So having 8gb at 1600 would be the best option? I ended up purchasing the corsair memory that you linked


Finally purchased everything(thanks to everyones' help), but for the recovery disk process what kind of disks do I need?

 

The best you can buy, but even those wont last, they will still delaminate.
Do a mirror image to an external HDD as well.
Run MEMTEST86+ on the ram when you receive it, actually, run Memtest86 on your USB sticks and whatever else you have as well.
Memtest86+ - Advanced Memory Diagnostic Tool

How to run Memtest86 from USB
How to run Memtest86 from USB - YouTube

Windows 7 has a built in tool for this type of test, take your pick of the 2, but defiantly do the test.

Don't forget the Intel diagnostics, monitoring and update tools:
Utility Tools

 

I have been looking at getting a Envy 17t 3200 3D and just wanted to hear from some owners on it.

Specs on what I config:
i7-3610qm
8gb 1600ram (sounds like anything over 8gb @ 1600 is bumped down to 1333, so why spend the $$)
1tb 5400rpm (leaves me room to get my own ssd)
left out the widi, is it useful?

This will be mainly for home; internet, music, games. Being heavy doesn't matter, more asking on performance and bang for the buck. Also, I have looked at dv7, envy 15/17 but keep coming back to the 17 3D as it has more options/power at the same price point.

 

You better start reading the forum more.
The Envy 17-32xx 3D is crippled, HP is sending them out with a broken Intel HD 40000 and WiDi.
Why would you want to buy the 3D unit,,,,,go with the NON 3D unit.
http://forum.notebookreview.com/hp-...d-ivy-bridge-switchable-graphics-problem.html

 

To be honest I don't have a reason for the 3D over non. I just did another config of 17t-3200 with the same specs and it comes out to $125 less, nice savings. What are the thoughts on that model with the same specs?

 

Go non 3D, you will get better battery life. The 3D unit only has 2-3 Hrs of battery life, that's unacceptable for a notebook with Ivy Bridge processor. All because the Intel HD 4000 does not initiate, its there, but it wont work.

I would config to the 17-3090nr 3D's specs in the 17-32xx series.

 

If u dont care much abt misleading sales and battery life u can go with the 3D...its a pretty cool feature to have...specially for the price with the discount coupon.....I hav found over time I do enjoy watching 3D movies on my lappy..and I have collection as well..but thts just me

If dont care abt the 3D ..and battery life more important ..then I strongly suggest you go for the Non-3D version..plus u have the satisfaction of not receiving a broken unit..with the switchable graphics not activated on the 3D model u will probably have the feeling of owning a Broken Model like the rest of Us..

 

I'd also say non-3D. ~Twice the battery life, less heat, quieter fans (all of those due to use of the Intel HD Graphics).

Also, the screen on the 3D is a TN panel, whereas the non-3D is IPS. The IPS has better colors and viewing angles.

And, I'd say get the cheapest i7. It's definitely the most bang for the buck, and your processor will spend 90% of its time running at 1200MHz anyhow. It's pretty amazing just how much you can throw at the system before it needs to jump up above 1200MHz.

Any other feature you want, is just preference. I'd just say avoid the i5, and you're golden. Rest is up to you.

 

Yeah the battery life of the non-3D just over 5 hrs and the some the 3D guys have claimed they getting 3-4 hrs with 30 percent brightness(Radiance 3D panel is brighter) surfing on Wi-fi

Gigabitz,Thanks for all your posts .They are all very informative and helpful.Rep for you.