*HP HDX DRAGON Owners Lounge, Part 1*

Now, I've seen that you guys reccomend DV 6000 and 8000 model hard drive cages for the HDX, but whats the point in using them if they lack the center mounted screw hole?
My Segate 320gb 7200.3 came two days ago. I'll be excited to get it installed. If I use a hard drive cage without screwing it down isn't it just preventing the HDD from moving too much rather than not moving at all?
Seems unsafe.

If anyone has a working HDD cage around I'll buy it.
I saw someone was doing bulk orders before on official HDX cages earlier in the thread and I'm sad I didn't jump on it!

 

If one gets new drives, isn't it possible to install the new drive in the HDX's original caddy or cage? The swapped out drives don't need to be in caddies or do they?

Puzzled

 

Does the HDX have any sort of inertial hard drive protection....protecting against falls...like the Lenovos?

 

I think if you drop your HDX, you'll have bigger problems than your hard drive getting whacked, your HDX will be toast...being 15 pounds and all is a lot of momentum to handle.

That being said. No it doesn't.

 

What about protection for the drives from bumps?

 

Yup, that's right. Welcome aboard.

 

Yep, 4 screws hold the HDD in the caddy. You swap the drive out of the caddy.

 

How low tech can I be and still swap out the drives safely?

The reason I asked the question about hard drives and auto-parking heads is that a number of manufacturers make drives with inertial sensors. I just wonder if there is a rationale for them in the Dragon. A fall (!!) of the Dragon might destroy the machine, but the survivability of the drives might be a different issue.

Thanks

 

Thank you, just updated mine. Since I recently received my HDX20 in Sept, curious why my system didn't have the updated driver for this already? It looks like the driver was dated in July. Do you know the difference between the 4965 and the 5350. 5350 faster?

 

No actually I really believe there is some application shifting focus from my games - Sometimes that happens even if I am not touching anything... no way to nail the responsible app by checking teh adm. tools (and maybe comparing the time that happened with whatever entry) uh?

 

My Seagate 160GB hard drive has G Force protection.
http://www.seagate.com/support/kb/disc/gf_protect.html

I cut a piece of a white soft rubber eraser to the right size to hold my Seagate hard drive. It worked perfectly. I wouldn't want a hard drive flopping around in a laptop.

 

Hi there, got my Dragon today, it has a T9300 processor, but what it has me worried is the display driver, it was supposed to be a resolution of 1680x1050
but when I click on the display properties it says: 1920x1200, could it be wrong or in fact the seller made a mistake? Thank you.
Oscar

 

Worried? Worried that you got something better than you paid for?

If you're not happy with the "smallness" of icons and text, I'd be happy to switch HDX's with you...mine is also a T9300.

 

Not built in, but again, since the Dragon is so big and heavy, it is not as susceptible to minor bumps and all. Just like a desktop system, few if any, have any sort of g-shock protection. It's all about weight.

 

So you don't see a rationale for getting drives with G shock protection for the Dragon.

I'm wondering if I should live with the 2 x 160 7200s that I have and wait for SSD. Or maybe I should use my available capital to live.

 

Not really. I just don't see that bumping it is going to even move it. Like was said before, if it falls off or tumbles over from an unstable table or something, it's so big your hard drive is the least of your worries. But, like any insurance, it's completely your choice.

"captial to live"? Food, electricity and roof are highly overrated.

 

Okay, food and a roof, possibly, but where are you going to plug in your Dragon?

 

Starbucks, of course.

 

G force protection is built into the Seagate 3 series. Even if I "dropped my Dragon" (How Rude!!) and totalled the machine, I would like to know there might be a chance of recovering my data. Sorta moot point anyway as I use two external hard drive images (two identical 500 GBs Seagates, in case one of them is dropped, I use odd/even duplicates and then Carbonite over that. Am I paranoid or what...DavidG

 

Scott,
HDTV's aren't TV's in the conventional sense which is a big reason that many people have problems when it comes to connecting them to PC's. HDTV's are nothing more than oversized monitors that have their own settings. But in the end, RGB is RGB, CMYK is CMYK - don't inject resolution into the equation because it doesn't matter. Remember that resolution is only a matter of how many pixels are actually in the field. It'll affect focus and color sharpness of course, but you're still calibrating to the image, not the resolution.

If you've got the CS3 Master Collection as I do, then you need to use Adobe's On Location for the kind of calibration you're talking about. OL was introduced to be used in conjunction with Ultra, Premier, and After Effects.It comes with Sureshot, Focus, and Monitor calibration panels that you can use for camera calibration. Although it's primarily for video/film work, cameras are cameras - if you're using a digital SLR, you should be able to use the same calibration toolset. If you're talking about one of the other CS3 suites that doesn't include it, you can always download the trial, but it won't have the calibration reference cards. Or you can order the CS4 version like I have, although they won't be actually available until later this month.

As a photographer, you should be using Lightroom as well as Photoshop - they just released version 2.0. The file manager is as good or better than Bridge, and Lightroom is of course specifically geared toward photographers. Also, if you're a NAPP member, you can find calibration info on the NAPP or Kelby site.

Here's a tip on getting screen pics to match prints:
# Q: Is it possible to match my on-screen display with my actual prints?
# A: Download/install a fresh copy of the printers' drivers from the printers' Web sites. Clean/calibrate the print heads and make sure that inks from the printer manufacturer are installed.

MAC: Go to the blue Apple menu and open System Preferences, then click on Displays. Select Adobe RGB as the system level color profile.
WINDOWS: Go to the Start menu, to Control Panel, and double-click Display. Select Adobe RGB as the system level profile.
NOTE: If you send images to a photo lab, use an inkjet with only 4 inks, or create exclusively on-line imagery, sRGB is a better choice both at the system level and in Photoshop.

In Photoshop's Color Settings dialog box select Adobe RGB as the working space. Set the RGB color management policy to Convert to Working RGB. Uncheck the mismatch warning dialog boxes.

When you're ready to print, make these selections in the Color Management area to the right in Photoshop CS3's Print dialog box (or Print with Preview for earlier versions):
--Print: Document
--Color Handling: Photoshop Manages Colors
--Printer Profile: [choose the specific profile for the paper on which you’re printing]
--Rendering Intent: Relative Colorimetric
--Black Point Compensation: [selected]

After clicking the Print button, you’ll see the printer’s own Print dialog box. Make sure that the correct paper is selected and that the printer’s own color management is disabled.

I've got an email into NAPP to find out their recommendation for a profile/calibration package for the HDX monitor. Will let you know when I get a response.

 

Only the models whose model numbers end in "G". The others do not, from what I read...

 

Ah...yes, Starbucks. I forgot about their cold fusion latte. Why hasn't T. Boone Pickens mentioned this?

 

Come on guys - of course the Dragon has inertial damage protection!!!

Its called " HP's Accidental Damage Extended Warranty Protection"....

It bounces, breaks, you react inertially by calling HP in :cry: and telling them you just dropped your HDX. Of course as others have pointed out, you'll likely have more than a drive to worry about.

 

BK,
Open up your Task Manager and see if you've got an executable called Flexnet.exe running in the background. If so, shut it down. Flexnet is used by many programs to perform auto-updates. It runs on programs you don't even think about, so many times users don't even know it's running. You shouldn't run it anyway as there's a major security threat associated with it as well - you can Google it to read up on it. If you have any Adobe or Corel programs, you've likely got it running on your system.

You can use a program called Memory Boost (for those of you that have 32bit systems and aren't running max RAM. It's a great program for Memory Management/Reclamation of Memory that the system doesn't reclaim automatically after a program is shut down. It allows you to monitor Memory percentage in real time as programs or processes startup. It's Detective feature allows you to look at all background processes, and it's properties will tell you which program the process belongs to and if it's okay to shut it down. Even with a 64bit system it's a good tool for finding those annoying processes that are hard to track down. I've had clients with similar problems use it to track down processes that were hanging their systems.

You can find it at Tenebril.com - it has a 15 day full-version trial. I've used it for years (still do) on my XP desktop, before when I was using only 512mb of RAM, and now with 1.5 just as process monitor and memory reclamation tool.

 

Takes too many gallons to fill up the average tank.

 

I hope the inertia is not in customer support. After I bought my Dragon from HP I read somewhere that I should have bought it from the Business side. Better support, supposedly.

I did get the acccidental protection. And I'm a big believer in extended warranties. Saved me a lot of bucks with many different electronics.

 

Me too...it's called AMERICAN EXPRESS. They double (up to a year) the warranty of anything you buy on your card. I've used it multiple times. They practically insist on giving you EXACTLY the same coverage you had while under warranty (onsite service, etc..)

Cost? ZERO.

 

No Problem - that's why we're all here.

MA, to add to what 2.0 was saying about the CPU not mattering as far as the CA goes, the Alert is about a possible boot access security violation in certain BIOS installations. I found it interesting that the new HDX 16 & 18's were listed also. Come to think of it, I forgot about the "other" HDX forum for those irrelevant new HDX's and didn't copy my post over there. Did anyone copy them in on the CA?

 

Does that mean they'll buy you 2 HDX's if you drop and total out your original one?

Just don't miss a payment - those buttwipes stranded me in Orlando back when I had a government AMEX card and couldn't get a rental car to get to work at KSC in '97. If it wasn't for a relative of my wife's that lived close by, I would've had to get on a plane and head directly back to Baltimore. Since then, every time I see an AMEX offer come through the mail it immediately gets trashed. I used to have a gold card - never again. Don't trust them.

 

I'm just the opposite. I've been with them for 9 years, and charge everything for my business on it. They easily get $200-500K per year from me. They love me! I've always been treated well whenever I needed anything. I missed a payment once...they jacked up my rate. I called...they apologized, and lowered my rate back to where it was.

 

Support is better on the Business side, but that's primarily because Businesses tend to have Extended Warranties. Since you have one you'll get Support Case Manager if you ever have a problem. Others are large enough to have their own internal OEM Service Depots, which is how I got my training on HP systems; I used to run an HP OEM Service and Repair Center for Honeywell a "few" years ago....

The HDX wasn't available from the Business side - I tried. My HDX was actually purchased on an HP Employee Purchase Plan, but I couldn't get it from the Biz side. It won't even come up if you try to add-on the warranty as a business warranty, which is stupid since I use it almost exclusively for business.

R U EVER going to unpack yours?

 

Yes. The anticipation is staggering. The problem is, there's so much going on for me that I don't want to do a clumsy job in setting it up, making recovery disks, updating drivers (doesn't seem like I'll have to do the bios update), and all the rest.

Still, being on this great forum is keeping me in the loop, and almost as good as using the Dragon.

 

Missed this one, 2.0 - I didn't have any problems with installing Acrobat 8.0, but mine's part of the Master Collection. Is yours part of one of the CS3 Suites or did you install it as a standalone program, and what problems did you have installing it?

The reason Acrobat 9 works so good is that it's 64bit certified on both Vista and XP, and it's 2x faster than previous versions. I'm curious as to whether or not you got the Pro or Pro Extended version of 9. I've already got my Master update pre-ordered, but I've been thinking about getting the Extended version of 9 since they released it.

 

As far as Drivers go, there aren't that many you really need to update - QuickPlay for sure if you're using a BD-ROM, and the obligatory HP program updates. Anything else is just whether you want to or not or if you have a problem. Remember, just because there's a newer driver available doesn't necessarily mean you have to install it if you don't have a problem.

You can always just order a set of Recovery Disks from HP. I got a set when I ordered mine, but you can order a set after you receive it also. Recovery Partitions are nice, but I like to hedge all bets and keep all options open.

That and I'm too lazy to make my own Recovery Disk set....

Even though HP tells you to go through all of the Recovery steps, you can still order a Recovery Disk set for your system if you want. If you (or anyone else) is interested, the URL for the 9300 is at:

http://tinyurl.com/3fgwvo

For any other HDX, go to your system Support Page (go to HP Customer Care and enter your system's HP Product #, NOT THE MODEL #, into the system field). On the Support page, select "Solve A Problem", then "System Recovery". Go down the list until you see the link that says "Obtaining a Recovery CD or DVD set for Windows Vista" and click on that. That will take you to the procedure for obtaining a Recovery Disk set for your particular system. You'll need your system's Model, Product and Serial # from your tag underneath the Power button so make sure you either have it or know it before you start.

Or you can just call HP.

 

I said worried because, when I first opened the box and set the unit, i kept getting the unit going into safe mode, and upon close inspection I saw fingerprints in the screen, after I managed to fix it, went to the HP site and registered the unit, five minutes later got the message that my warranty was running out, looking in the paperwork that I got found a 3 year warranty with a company called Mack Camera I did fill the form, and got confirmation of my warranty, the odd thing is that I bought the unit here in Sydney (Australia).
Everything is working ok, exept for the fingerprint reader, haven't been able to register my fingerprints, i gave up after trying more than 20 times and getting the message to do it slower, the other thing is where can I get some software to be able to wath TV in a small screen instead of the original program that takes the whole screen.
Last night my screen went black all of a sudden, the only choice was to turn the unit off.
Turn it on and at the moment is working ok, sorry about the long post.
Oscar

 

As far as your screen going black:

Open up your Power Options, then open up the Advanced Settings. Check your Display settings and change it to a longer time. If it goes black, it's just going into Sleep or Hibernate - all you need to do is press (not hold) the Power Button for a second and it'll come back up. Keep in mind if you have a multi-display setup, even if you have your laptop set as the primary display, when coming back from sleep or hibernate it can default to the external display.

To register or use your fingerprint scanner you have to:

1. Make sure your finger and the scanner are clean - use Iso to get the oil or any debris off with a Qtip.
2. Make sure your finger pad is entirely flat before you draw it across the scanner.
3. When you draw your finger, draw it SLOW - if you hear a sound when you draw your finger across, it means you're drawing your finger too fast across the scanner for it to get a good read.
4. You can use any finger, and you can enter more than one. Try using a different finger if you have problems with the one you're using or trying to scan.

If you're using QuickPlay and the TV tuner, go to the upper right corner of the window - you can make the window smaller just like any window in Vista. Click on the double-window icon, or the large icon with arrows in the corner to return it to the main QP window.

If you bought your system new and not used, I'd have a serious discussion with whoever you got your system from. If HP indicated your warranty is running out, they're talking about the original 1 yr warranty. That means whoever you got it from registered the system almost a year ago, and added the Extended Warranty at the same time. If they sold it to you new without the initial warranty, that's fraud - at least here in the US it is. Don't know about down under, but having had Aussie roommates in the Navy and knowing how you guys handle problems, I know you'll find a "unique way" of dealing with any sales deceptions.

 

With similar in price, I wonder how the mALX Backpack compares to the HP 20" Roller Case KD853PA.

 

I remember earlier posts about the Kensington power adapter. Is there one particular model that works for the HDX? Does it void your warranty to use a non HP adapter?

 

Most adapters, like HP's, are made specifically for the unit they're powering, meaning its specific voltage/amp/wattage requirements. Even if you could find a duplicate (which I doubt) the HDX adapters, and others like them, are AC-DC transformers that convert 110/240v 60hz AC (or 50hz AC if you're across the pond) to a specific DC voltage input for the HDX or whatever unit an adapter is powering. In the HDX's case, it's 19 volts DCV/9.5 amps current. The output adapter voltage and the plug in connector for the HDX need to match, making it hard to find a match since most adapters are usually manufactured to specific requirements for specific electronic items.

For smaller electronic items, you can get a 9v transformer with multiple input connectors at many stores - even Wal-Mart has them. But something as specific as the HDX adapter can't be that easy to find since it needs to be exactly the same voltage/current wise, or within 1 volt / .5 amps + or -. Any further difference and you start running into system operation problems. To see what I mean, when you setup your system at some point, leave the AC unplugged and let the battery get to critical levels, then see what starts to fail. It doesn't take much voltage fluctuation to cause problems. And that doesn't even take into account trying to match the input connector.

To illustrate the problem, think about how many AC adapters you have around your house for the different electronic devices you have - how many of them are interchangeable with other electronic systems?

Digital systems need precise voltages to work properly - they're not as forgiving as analog systems used to be. And as far as warranty goes, I'd worry less about that than what you're going to fry by trying to use an adapter not matched to the system.

The Kensington adapter referenced is likely a replacement / aftermarket adapter that's matched to the HDX's voltage/amp/watt requirements. If it isn't, the owner stands a good chance of stressing the internal electronics or overheating the battery unit.

Before someone decides to start arguing with me about Lithium Ion batteries - you should know I was in charge of government program QA for NASA on the advanced development of Lithium Ion technology. I'm pretty aware of what it takes to fry the cells, since the developer's test tech fried an entire batch during final testing (30 cells in all, set back flight schedule by 2 weeks). The tool the astronaut in the picture at left is holding (that 2.0 was the only one to come close to figuring out what it is) is powered by Lithium battery cells in the base. It was originally designed for servicing the Hubble Telescope, one of my other programs, as well as the ISS. The tool he's holding is called a Pistol Grip Tool. It was so successful it was adopted by NASA for use in Space Station construction as well. The PGT holds 10 or 12 lithium cells, I can't remember.

So please, just take my word for it that it doesn't take much voltage difference to screw up Lithium Ion batteries. NASA pumped close to a million into development of LiIon technology for the PGT, and it never worked as advertised - it still doesn't work 100% today, even though they're in widespread use. Sony sure found out about it the hard way. Pelican found out too with replacements for the PSP. If you want to use a non-OEM adapter, go for it - just remember the old saying:

Caveat Emptor.

 

Thanks, Cybervisions, for the erudite answer. I was a bit sceptical about using a non HDX adapter. I'm careful about the adapters that I use for my pdaphones.

 

Quick question..what's "Iso"? Doesn't that usually mean in search of?

Foxmarks works great for Firefox in regards to using the fingerprint reader with passwords.

When I first got my DV9700t with fingerprint reader it took me a while to figure out the fingerprint reader as well. When you first start it up it defaults on a highlighted finger BUT YOU have to click the finger you want, even if its the default one FIRST before trying to assign a password via the reader. Also if you do Windows updates you have to start all over again with the finger print reader as far as registering it until all your major Windows updates are done...otherwise you have to keep re registering it after each major update. That was my experience with it at least.

 

Thanks for the answers, that caps everything.
Managed to register one fingerprint, but I guess will leave it alone.
On the power settings followed the advice and changed the times.
With the tv tuner, haven't been able to do anything, system manager shows the Hybrid Tv tuner, but it doesn't say between brakets (DVB-T), that's the digital for Australia, according to the user's manual. Downloading the driver from the HP site doesn't change anything.
QuickPlay doesn't find any channels, I got good reception, an external usb dongle picks up all the channels.

 

I just got my HDX today (X7900, 4GB RAM, 500GB, WUXGA, HD-DVD). I bought a refurbished unit which seemed very much new. When I charged the notebook battery at the office, I did not notice anything peculiar.

When I got home, the battery got down to 66% and I plugged the charger back in. I noticed it was making some weird 'crackly electric' noise - surely this can't be good. The last thing I want is some silly charger burning down the house or my HDX!! Strangely enough, the PC was not even on load, it was charging under Power Saver mode in Vista.

The link below is a short video that records the sound coming from the AC adapter. Is this a warranty job for HP? (Turn the volume up a little)

Strange Noise from AC Adapter

 

As much as I thought I would, I have never used any of the Adobe programs outside PSCS3, Bridge and ocasionally Illustrator. Really wish I could sit down and make progress in illustrator.

I am a NAPP member. Please shoot me a link to any calibration info there.

I also never saw the on-location program. Maybe I did not install all that as like I said, I never do video, although I'd like to. Although I cannot imaging that could help match a print like a colorimeter could.

Wen I get settled in for the week at the hotel, I'll post a link or 2 to some of my pics. Nothing great, but decent.

Scott

 

Hi all
my hdx is the old 9050 with ati video card. After i flashed to f.39 bios i'm unable to upgrade video dirver (even the official hp sp37918.exe) . I get always black screen after win logo on reboot. I tried even under xp but the result is the same, so it doesn't seem a software iusse.
Can i downgrade to older bios? where can i find it?what was his number?
thanks

 

That is very familiar. I had the same exact problem and HP sent me a new power adapter with no problems.

 

For those still in the market for the dragon, Newegg has them back in stock. Tempting.

 

Do hdx20s use 200 pin laptop type RAM or 240 pin desktop type RAM ?

Laptop RAM:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=2000260381 1309139889&name=4GB

Desktop RAM:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=2000170147 1052323986&name=8GB (2 x 4GB)

How can laptop RAM be twice as expensive for slower (667 versus 800) memory ? Desktop and laptop RAM use the same chips only soldered to a board with a different form factor.

 

Is it me, or do the hdx20s run really nice and cool and quiet ?

I'm coming from a zd7000. The fan on that thing howled like crazy as soon as you did anything significant. It was really hot, almost all the time. It was uncomfortably warm to use on your lap. Battery life was terrible, ie 1 hour.

My hdx20 is nearly silent all the time. I've never heard the fan get loud. The palmrest was a bit warm the other day when I was doing a lot of file operations, but that is it.

Edit: I'm running Kbackup, compressing about 40GB of data. Both cores are running 100%. My laptop is cool and silent.

I love how the cores run at 50% during normal operations. Then when I start doing something heavy in the background, they kick up to 100% and there is really no difference in perceived performance.

These hdxs are great. Period.

 

Scott,
The procedure I listed on my last post came from the NAPP Help Desk FAQ.
The 2 programs below are recommended by NAPP as the most popular, and what they recommended for our particular monitor. NAPP was also very specific in recommending buying support with them.

X-rite Eye-One Display2

http://tinyurl.com/2bvvty

Colorvision Spyder 3 Elite

http://tinyurl.com/45utd8

On Location is a part of the CS3 Production Suite or the Master Collection. The Production Suite contains all the Video programs - After Effects, Premier, Encore, etc., as well as a few others. It's function is for, literally, on-location film/video production crews to assist in digital film/video creation.

As far as Illustrator, if you don't subscribe to Lynda.com for training courses, you should. It's only $375/yr for unlimited access to all courses, which includes the exercise files. They also have monthly subscriptions, or another annual for $250 that doesn't include exercise file download capability. Their list of courses is very lengthy, and their instructors are all Adobe and former Macromedia instructors. You probably already know about Kelby from the NAPP site, but I like Lynda's offerings more. Since the merger with Macromedia, I've noticed that Illustrator has incorporated some of the tools and presets that Fireworks uses for website object creation.

You also know as well as I do that no matter how much training or actual use you get with each program, you'll never use either to it's full potential. I've been using both since Version 4 and I still only use maybe half of the functions available. Of course a lot of that stems from that fact that I used both Adobe and Macromedia programs for site and print design, and some programs of course duplicated processes. I was just really glad that Adobe decided to trash GoLive and keep Dreamweaver. I never got the hang of GoLive - it was set up too much like graphic and print design programs instead of a strict web design program like Dreamweaver is.

TRIVIA QUESTION: Who knows what Dreamweaver was called before it was officially renamed Dreamweaver by Macromedia in 1999? No Googlers allowed...

The things to remember about Illustrator and Photoshop are that Photoshop is for graphics creation and editing, while Illustrator is for original artwork and graphics for print and web. One way I explain it to clients is that Photoshop is for pictures (even thought not exclusively) and Illustrator is for artwork - again, not exclusively either, but it's a simplistic explanation. I was using some of the CS4 Beta's, and some of the new CS4 features are really cool.

As a photographer, you really should download the trial version of Lightroom - NAPP has started supporting it as much as Photoshop, and its file organization tools for photos are much better than Bridge. If you remember Extensis Portfolio, it's pretty close to that. It's also strictly geared for photographers, whereas Photoshop and Bridge are for Graphics and Photography pro's alike, but not specifically made for photographers like Lightroom is. I have a friend of mine who's a professional photographer like you and is using it. The one feature he likes is that it has plugins that let you interface with 3rd party photo labs. Other features that are great are the automatic picture enhancement tools - think Intellihance as an embedded feature rather than a plugin, but with additional options.

Lightroom 2 is also 64bit certified, as it appears all the new Adobe programs being released are. You can also get Lightroom at a discount if you get a CS Suite package as well. Of course you can get discounts from the NAPP site also, so I'd check to see which gives you the better discount.

There's a really good article this month in PSU on RAW processing in Lightroom, highlighting why it's not like Photoshop. If you've got your digital copy it's on page 92.

Sorry to sound like an Adobe marketing rep, but I really believe Lightroom is a great program for professional photographers, and that it's only going to get better. Still haven't gotten my Mom to get it yet (she's a professional photographer in California), but then again she doesn't have time to learn Photoshop either. She lets Dad deal with all the processing....