*HP dv6z AMD Llano (6XXX series) Owners Lounge*

Either use some compressed folders or prioritize what goes on there. How big was it to start?

...didn't someone say you can also recover from USB memory stick if there's an hp_tools partition on it?

 

Well the 3850 is 500MHz faster! I think it is an "enthusiast" chip, cream of the crop. However the 3800 is a good buy, and if it's anything like the mobile chips, can overclock like mad.

You can, but it won't save you a whole lot of space. Did you:

(1) Reduce / turn off your page file
(2) Reduce your system restore size
(3) Turn off hibernation
(4) Run CCleaner and get rid of the extra crap
(5) Use Treesize Free to check for the large files

Just note that your WinSXS folder can be misleading as far as free space since it contains a lot of hard links, you may have actually more space than you think. See here: http://www.sevenforums.com/general-...folder-not-actually-consuming-lots-space.html

 

Try go to computer management > Storage > try shrink it?

Did you do minimal restore on SSD for the partition? You can always back it up to w/e media you like. At least backing up to USB flash drive would work, just make sure the flash drive is FAT and named HP_TOOLS if you need to run it.

Maybe some one can try it with a CD.

 

Did you delete/rename the HP_TOOLS partition?

I didn't have that problem since I had no original partitions when I put the Bigfoot in.

Earlier, I was wondering if any BIOS change was neeeded at all when it came to removing the whitelist check, and that it was all tied to the partition. My reasoning was supported by the partition problem when flashing the BIOS.

Maybe any "illegal" mod problem is tied to the HP_TOOLS partition and not the BIOS?

 

Yes I renamed the HP_Tools partition. Had to do that to flash the BIOS. But interesting about your Bigfoot wireless card. I am planning on doing a clean install soon. Maybe I'll just stick the wifi card in then and see what happens.

edit: well there goes that theory. I actually just removed my SSD completely and it still gave the error.

However! Another theory. It said it found an unauthorized device but only mentioned bluetooth. Perhaps if I had a wi-fi card with no blue-tooth it would work?

 

That seems to be the concensus with every other post I've read with an Intel WIFI card with bluetooth on an AMD laptop. My Bigfoot doesn't have bluetooth, but I just bought a "bluetooth button" and put it into one of my USB 2.0 ports so I could use my bluetooth mouse. Since media and gaming are important to you, you might want to go with the same combo I used.

By the way, I just posted the bezel guide to your optimization thread and included options for the optical drive and SSDs too.

 

Hey thanks. Where did you get your Bigfoot wireless card? Is it the 1102 or 1103? A froogle search results in only one place that sells it and never heard of the place and don't know if its reliable or not. Plus $45 for a wifi card is a bit steep. eBay is also $45. I don't need Bluetooth. The 6300 card is only $20 on eBay.

 

Does the antenna or the wireless card have more impact on performance?

A few weeks ago, I saw some 1 selling their 1102 for 28 on NBR? But still kind of steep for some non "emergency" upgrade.

 

KillerN-1102 Wireless Card (now listed as unavailable where I bought it):

Amazon.com: KillerN-1102 Wireless Card: Electronics

...but plenty in stock here (and the only other place I could find it, since it's not marketed retail):

BIGFOOT KILLER W/L NIC M/PCI-E NOTEBOOK - AireTech IT e-Shop International

Don't bother with the 1103. You'd need to run another antenna, and there's no real gain in performance based on all the research I did. It just gives you 3x3 MIMO which you'll probably never use since the majority of routers don't do 3x3, and those that do are overpriced.

As far as the bluetooth button, I paid bank (about $25) for the best-rated one I could find (Cirago), but I probably wish I'd just bought this:

Newegg.com - ASUS USB-BT211 Mini Bluetooth Dongle USB 2.0

...since it's pretty much a "throwaway item" @ $7.99AR, and most users seem to like it...plus I just use mine for the legacy mouse anyway. (Other bluetooth devices are overpriced IMHO, and other non-BT wireless devices I have tried cost less work just fine.) BT does give me the option, however, of syncing up my phone later, though.

 

Thanks. That's the same place I found it (AireTechIT). Not sure how reliable the site is. May just go with eBay.

No need for bluetooth since I don't use it and actually already have a USB bluetooth "button", but thanks.

 

I bought mine in order to maximize media streaming and downloads, and to provide 2x2 MIMO when I travel, if I get in an area that supports 5ghz but is congested with 2.4ghz-only users (most of travelers are only 2.4.) Just future-proofing for me.

My first choice would have been an HP-compatible 2x2 with BT solution...but there are MANY posts that have said that they either don't work, or are not what the part number's description said they were, so I opted not to take the chance with HP OEMs...which tend to be more expensive anyway.

From all the reviews I've seen, it makes a real difference for gamers based upon the streaming optimizations alone, but that's not why I purchased it. However, the same optimizations work for media, and that IS why I bought it, in order to get the full 300mps when the network supports it.

I actually probably would have been fine with any 2x2 option, and have used Braodcom, Railink, and Atheros products before (and all were fine), but since I am on the road a lot, Bigfoot's optimizations make all the difference since I am often competing on slow g networks. Head-to-head reviews said that Bigfoot's devices were noticeably betterin media and gaming over Intel's (but not in respect to range, which I don't care about because when the signal's weak, I use a small access point configured as a client through the LAN port to boost range), and I have already found this to be so, so it has been worth the extra bucks for it.

My biggest concern was when I first installed it, and the keyboard light flashed blue and red. Since then, I'm pretty sure that I've figured out that all this is now, with the Bigfoot change, is an "activity" light. I was worried that this might be an indication of going offline/online due to an incompatibility isssue...but I don't think so now. Even if it is...it's working better than the Railink that came stock.

It really IS just a more-expensive option based upon personal use...but aren't they all, really?

However...I'm happy with it, and it's a change I am glad I made.

 

i ve a strange issue with swtor.sometimes the game stutters for a while and i noticed the cpu from 2.6 goes to 1.7 and when it changes game play smooths again.any suggestions about that??

 

Have you checked your temps? That sounds like throttling to me.

 

i ve B0 2.7 @ 1.1750
P0 2.6 @ 1.150

never passes 80 degrees celsius.
A6 3410MX cpu using only 6750m o/ced to 770/900 via afterburner

EDIT: does hp coolsense has something to do with it?

 

I think sometimes ago, the thread kind of conclude the APU throttle is a mix bag cause from heat and max TDP.
There is no "software" fix, mostly we just keep same p-state across the same or lower it as game usually don't need all the CPU power

edit: HT can write a section about the CPU throttle for his guide and "fix"s against it

 

Ha. I can recreate the different throttle scenarios but can't quite put my finger on why it's doing what it's doing. I've had mine throttle as low as 80C, and had it reach nearly 100C other times.

But @ jimpsar - coolsense would have something to do with it only if you're running on "coolest" mode. Best to set it to "performance" mode or forget it.

I may do a write up about the throttling, even though I'm not 100% clear what the heck is going on. Need to talk to an AMD engineer.

 

Being the case that it's exactly my processor I can tell you that if there is no mod applied at 2.6 GHz the processor will throttle. Without coolsense installed I reached temperatures of above 90° at those frequencies.

 

Any one jumped on the boat of disable cool n quiet and test it out?

 

i don't have it installed and have no heat issues.
seer

 

Did a clean format looooong time ago, no issues.

 

I was given to understand lack of cool n quiet driver prevented windows from stepping the CPU...? Removing coolsense driver leaves the BIOS trapped in coolest mode right? Wouldn't that suck in Linux then?

EDIT: Yes I know these are different programs. But cool n quiet lets Windows reduce the clock and coolsense forces thermal throttling...?

 

wow mine boots, just a little slower getting past the HP bios splash screen, but the wireless worked, just couldn't get the bluetooth to work and unknown usb.. But yeah i went back to the original card.

 

Cool'n'quiet != Coolsense, btw.

And from my experience uninstalling coolsense doesn't lock you at the "Coolest" mode, because I had "max performance" before I uninstalled and my load temps never changed.

 

Disabling Cool'n'quiet will not allow Windows to manage the CPU P-states. It will always be at P0. K10stat still works though. I did find however, to set coolsense to whatever mode you want before you uninstall it because it will be stuck with whatever mode you left it at. Of course a fresh Windows install would negate all that. I believe it defaults to "max performance" mode.

 

My last run was 3.51 pts. Has anyone broken this record on CINEBENCH?

Judging by that score that puts me ahead of the A8-3850. http://www.legitreviews.com/article/1649/9/ and http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/foru...a8-3850-apu-review-llano-hits-desktop-13.html

@ HT,

Great write-up btw on your guide!

 

I just purchased the wireless card ... Intel Ultimate N 633ANHMW. Anyone had any success or failures with it???
I'm really looking forward to 5ghz. I pick up 10 2.4ghz in my house.

 

Thanks. And thanks for sharing your results. I think I will put performance results in the guide too, at least in the FAQ so people can know what to expect.

I got 3.49 with my 3510MX yesterday running 2.933. I was having some issues at 3.000GHz. The voltage on the 3510MX can only go to 1.2625 and I think it needs just a little bit more than that to run without crashing. That being said, Cinebench for whatever reason, doesn't push my temperatures much. They stay <75C even at 2.933 GHz where Prime95 or even 3DMark pushes it over 80C easily.

I don't know of anyone, but please share your results. clarkkent57 was able to get a Bigfoot Killer Wireless-N 1102 working no problem. I can't get 6230 working at all, but hoping 6300 will work because it doesn't have bluetooth. I may go with 6300 as well if it works because it's half the cost of the Bigfoot card.

 

Does anyone else get this error when trying to open AMD System Monitor... "Sorry an unexpected error has occurred. Please restart the application"? It used to work fine and I can't think of anything I installed that could messed it up :-/

 

Clear it out and grab the latest system monitor from AMD. I think it needs admin privileges to write the .csv and .log files.

3.5 in Cinebench is pretty darn nice, didn't Seer get similar numbers? (I think he was one of the first to approach 3GHz) This compares pretty well against cheaper i7QMs, yes? And I think it beats the i5 for most part. Not to say Intel does not hold the CPU performance title, but AMD value-for-money is amazing when you give an affordable laptop some TLC.

Now if only SOMEthing can be done about OpenCl drivers. I wish we could see how the Shogun 2 engine works because I'm thinking render is dGPU and DirectCompute shaders are iGPU. If anyone figures out how to use the dGPU that's a minimum 50% bump in speed, even better if both units can be engaged simultaneously. If they are serious about APP initiative crap this needs to work better.

Folding the screen way back was a blessing today. It prevented me from any issues with viewing angles on the cheaper screen. Now thinking whether to put a bracket on my drawing table or build a dock that uses another screen. Nice to have USB and HDMi in a row.

 

24 hours only @ Newegg!


OCZ Solid 3 SLD3-25SAT3-120G 2.5 Inch 120GB SATA III MLC

$119.99
With Promo Code: EMCYTZT1095

After $20 MIR with Free Shipping!

 

Good deal on SSD but my advice, avoid OCZ like the plague.

 

I own three OCZ drives and have never had a problem! While the new Sandforce controllers were once a problem, it's long been fixed by firmware update.

I've also owned other OCZ products, including RAM and power supplies, and never had any OCZ-branded items fail. (Compare to Antec, Crucial, Patriot...all of which, in my own anectodotal experience, required return and/or replacement.)

 

I guess I meant OCZ SSD's, their RAM and other components have been fairly reliable. I have an OCZ Vertex 2 that has worked fine, well, after it crashed on me but got it replaced under warranty. But the latest gen drives still have considerable issues. Not to mention the dishonesty of OCZ during their whole slew of failing controllers. They have egg on their face, and honestly, I won't touch their stuff until they've got a longer proven track record for reliability and honesty.

 

OCZ gold RAM was such a stinker that they quit making it. I had to replace mine with Mushkin. I use an OCZ Agility 60GB SSD using an indilynx controller in one PC, it has been decent only needed to correct bad sectors a few times over the last two years (normal with any SSD from what I understand, better study up on how to do it. I use HDD Regenerator to check and correct as Windows doesn't always do such a good job). It took years for them to correct the firmware to a workable state on their newer sandforce controller drives... I still am very wary of their products. They don't mind shipping faulty hardware obviously. I returned a 256GB Crucial M4 after thinking the $520 laptop didn't deserve a $350 SSD and my desktop only has SATA II still. I will maybe jump on an Intel 320 SSD in the future, but would like prices to go down.

 

Yeah at the cost of SSD's it is hard to justify buying a storage drive more expensive than the laptop itself, lol. I really wish the manufacturers would work on dropping costs rather than keep pushing the speed envelope. Make it more affordable first, then push for the performance crown. Even $1/GB is too expensive IMHO. I got my 256GB Western Digital CaviarBlue for $200 as I got VERY VERY lucky when Newegg had a fire sale on them and they disappeared after only a couple minutes. I was stupid and should have ordered two, could have made $100 off it at least. Oh well, that ship sailed a long time ago.

 

Hello , so i got a 6145ca for 650

my gpu usage(discrete one) suddenly went to 100 % on battery.Not sure what triggered it but plugging it in fixed it and now its ok even on battery.

Any known cause for 100% gpu usage without any load?

Edit : Looks like this happens after resume from sleep.i have 12.1a + ulps disabled.GPU is at stock.
Anyway to avoid this?

 

But SSD probably gonna out last laptop though. Unless they have some break though technology (I mean no matter how fast your SSD is, other stuff is not catching up atm)

 

Just read a series of interesting articles about RAM upgrades, as applicable to desktop Llanos.

The main one was this:

Seven 8 GB DDR3 Memory Kits For Your AMD A75 Motherboard : Turning DDR3 Into Graphics Memory

The ultimate decision was this:

Unless you're planning on getting PC-1600 and pushing it to PC-1866 speeds, don't bother. Stick with PC-1333.

If you do push the 1600 to 1866, then CAS really doesn't matter. CAS 9 is only 2% faster than CAS 11, so get the least expensive memory that will run CAS 11 @ 1866 (which is just about everybody's.)

Moneywise, you're looking at about $45 for 8GB of 1600. Or...$100-120 for 1866.

(I don't know if these laptops can be pushed to 1866, however. However...I'm sure y'all will figure it out if you don't already know.)

Bottom line: the 1600 running @ 1866 gives you about 5fps more than 1333 on average. For some of you, that might make a big difference, since that would mean about a very worthwhile 17% increase over 30fps. (The 2% difference between CAS 11 vs CAS 9 equates to about 1/2 fps. Not worth it.)

Of course, this was all about the iGPU...I have no idea what effect (if at all) this would have with the dGPU in the laptops...but it might be just enough to bump the iGPU up into being a help with CrossFireX.

I thought it was pretty interesting that they achieved 35fps on an A6 iGPU.

 

Based upon a MTBF of 2,000,000 hours...it's going to outlast YOU, and probably your kids too.

 

I think anandtech did similar review but their result show 1600>1866 have less improvement from 1333 to 1600 though.
But meh my a8-3500 cant take 1600 ~~

http://www.anandtech.com/show/4476/amd-a83850-review/4

Generally ,I avoid tom'hardware after i read their SSD articles.

 

Generally, I read them all. There's no one site that's 100% accurate on anything, but when their opinions coincide, at least on principle (if not accuracy of findings) then you've got something to base some reliance upon before spending your money.

Of ALL sites testing methodology, however, you can't really beat HardOCP, but sometimes, they flop too.

 

I got 1600 MHz and have no measurable or noticeable improvement over 1333MHz.

 

Which was what Tom's said happened in their testing. Anand's got different results, however, and results that don't coincide with your findings. (The overall results from 1333 to 1866 were about the same...it's just that Tom's and Anand disagree where the major boost was.)

However...I've noticed that you're not running from the iGPU, right? And running with CrossFireX disabled, correct?

In that case, you wouldn't, because only your already-OC'ed CPU would be getting a boost that wouldn't show in your graphics results.

All this was about the IGP...maybe you could try iGPU in your use if only with the different mem configs and see if there's a benchmarked diff? Seems to me that you'd produce pretty reliable results given everything you've done.

 

No, I did test with iGPU only and there was zero difference in performance. I'll see if I can drag up my results somewhere. Actually I don't know why, but I just started benching single channel (one RAM module) vs dual channel for IGP performance. Maybe I'll throw 1333MHz into the mix just for fun. Granted my 1333MHz is CAS9 @ 1333 and 1600 is CAS11 @ 1600. So not sure if that would also be an impact. I need to get ahold of CAS 7 DDR3 1600 somehow and see if that makes a difference.

 

Geez...all this makes me wish that someone would write a completely different BIOS for these things, rather than simply mod what appears to be a real stinker to begin with.

 

Is this possible? I would throw down!

 

So would I.

Maybe we should all pool our resources as a club and get an estimate from

:: BIOSMAN Inc :: Custom BIOS setting, BIOS Logo, Default BIOS settings

But first, we should pick a treasurer.

 

I wonder what is the extent that the BIOS can be modified. Like would it be possible to make an interface to change iGPU/dGPU speeds from BIOS? If we could get some "advanced" features I would gladly donate some money.

 

We'd all have to "sit down" and agree on the core features. There's only so much storage on the chip for the program, so it's doubful you could get every option in the world.

 

True. So we need someone to spearhead this that is trust worthy. Any site admins in this thread?