*HP dv8 Owners Lounge*

You need to go into the Nvidia Control Panel to make these changes....
Once you do, you can set up profiles that will auto load.

Yeah, that issue is definitely your nvidia driver. Several pages back I linked to the WHQL driver from Nvidia (197.16) or the 'windows update' driver 197.45.

NVIDIA DRIVERS 197.16 WHQL

197.45 Download = http://go.notebookreview.com/?id=525X832&xs=1&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdownload.windowsupdate.com%2Fmsdownload%2Fupdate%2Fdriver%2Fdrvs%2F2010%2F04%2F20348935_0a7d4357f5036aa43e5b64eed420f8387a79bd62.cab&sref=http%3A%2F%2Fforum.notebookreview.com%2Fhp-compaq-voodoo-pc%2F404164-drivers-hp-dv6-gen-2-dv7-gen-3-dv8-hdx16-hdx18-intel.html

 

I think that we're splitting hairs now. I think that a "fairly capable gaming machine" has just not been enough to attract the attention of the reviewers to spend much time on.

I'm actually surprised that the Dv8 hasn't attracted more attention as a home business machine - a capability that it EXCELS at!

 

Sorry, Alan. I read endlessly (it helps to "sort the wheat from the chaff" ) and didn't think to note where I first read about it since I hadn't yet realized its significance. Besides that, GC was covered in the manufacturer's description of issues relating to its drives and how its firmware update for TRIM addressed the issue. Also I've read about it on the SSDTechnology forum.

GC is definitely relevant to SSD performance but, from what I've gleaned from what I've read, I doubt that it is a significant factor in SSD life.

I've heard that 'tony trim" is to be avoided but I have no idea what it is. What is the "tony trim" procedure with perfectdisk you referred to??

 

HP shipped it so quickly that I was in shock. They basically charged only $5 for expedited processing AND overnight shipping by air! It's that type of performance that keeps my loyalty with HP!

I'd love to say it's much faster, etc., but I can't - I haven't yet taken it to a location where I have prior experience with which I can make a valid comparison. I'll report back when I have made a comparison but, in the meantime, I'm happy to know that I have hardware that supports the final version of the "N" standard. Capiche'?

 

I found a i-7 920 QM on eBay for about 400 bucks. Has anybody tried installing this chip, as HP apparently does not have the 920 option?

 

I'm really tired of waiting for HP to release a firmware update for TRIM support under Windows 7 for the Samsung PM800 256gb SSD they offer with the Dv8 laoptop. I'm getting ready to make some attempts at updating the firmware on my Samsung PM800 256gb SSD. I've obtained the generic update package from Samsung's site. It requires a bootable USB Flash Drive (UFD) with DOS and formatted with FAT16.

I have a DOS 6.22 floppy and have used "diskpart" to create a 2Gb partition on my 8gb UFD under Win 7 and format the partition for FAT16. Nothing I have tried after those preparations has been successful in transferring the DOS 6.22 files and bootability to the UFD.

I tried the HP bootable UFD utility but it erased the 2gb FAT16 partition and replaced it with FAT32 and took the whole 8gb UFD to put Win98 DOS (7.1, I think) on the UFD. While the resulting UFD was bootable, I considered it a non-starter (excuse the unintentional pun) because of the FAT32 filesystem.

Then, I used MKBT by Bart Lagerweig to extract the DOS 6.22 boot sector from the floppy but attempts to install it on the UFD are met with "incompatible file system, FAT16" errors. Deeper research suggests that the MKBT utility works with only a handful of "compatible" UFDs.

Lastly, I found a suggestion to use the 'format.com" command from DOS in an XP-SP3 Command window to execute 'format x: /u /s' to place the DOS system files onto the UFD but that only returns the ubiquitous "incorrect OS version" errors.

Does anyone know of a way to accomplish this which works with a Sandisk Cruzer or PNY 8gb UFDs as those are what I already have?

I am becoming very frustrated! Suggestions? Other ideas?

 

Wow, fast turnaround!

Yeah please let us know your experience with it...thanks.

 

Hi all, just wanted to introduce myslef. Just got a dv8t-1000 (although the p/n says dv8t-1100 - maybe they just swapped out the blu-ray drive for the DVD drive). For the record, I got pretty much the stock system with the following selections::

-Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit
-i7-720QM
-4GB DDR3 System Memory
-500GB 7200RPM SATA Hard Drive
-LightScribe SuperMulti 8X DVD+/-RW with Double Layer Support
-Intel Wireless-N Card with Bluetooth
-No TV Tuner
-8 Cell Lithium Ion Battery

I'm slightly regretting not getting the Blu-Ray drive, because I didn't realize the discs have 40GB capacity. I don't expect to watch too many movies on my PC, but perhaps I'll upgrade to the Blu-Ray or get an external one later. Anyway, after having a number of problems with the Dell Studio 1747 and spending two weeks trying to fix them, I sent it back and started looking for another laptop. I was considering the Toshiba Qosimo series but this forum convinced me that the dv8t was the better option. Plus, I got in on the $500 off deal on the last day (May 8th, I think). Paid about $1080 or so with NJ tax, and shipping was spot-on-time.

Planning to follow V3locity's guide for out-of-the box optimization and take it from there. Glad to be part of the forum

-Falesi

 

Congratulations! Great price! Hope you enjoy your new Dv8 more than what it replaced! Welcome to the conversation.

 

Apparently someone on ebay is selling a dv8t with an i-7 920 in it. They say (of course) that all the HP seals are broken and replaced with their own

---------
So I did a fresh install last night (couldn't sleep) on a Intel 160gb G2. Everything works as it should (I'm not even going to bother with the on-screen volume, treble/bass - I realized it was annoying me anyways because it kept minimizing all my screens when I controlled the volume)

I didn't even bother installing the stock nvidia driver and just went straight for the 197.16. And I've realized that HD playback (720p or 1080p - more 1080p) causes a lot of the freezing problems I had mentioned earlier. I can play a 1080p music video and it will start to skip (but I can close the program without issues of freezing or locking up) - and then play a 480p video right after - and it plays perfectly.

It does this with HD youtube videos (online and downloaded) and some mkv files I've made.

It also seems to be more of an issue if I try to fast forward or rewind. If I let it play straight through it usually does so without a problem. Also tried downloading K-lite, but it hasn't helped.

This issue never occurred with the 187 driver, but we all know the problem with that one

 

I don't have any problems watching all kinds of HD files, mostly blueray rips. However, I use Sharks Win7 codecs (x86 version) plus the latest x86 version of MPC-HC with most internal filters/codecs disabled since I'm using the codecs and filters from Sharks pack. Although it's not necessary for good HD playback, I also use the CoreAVC Pro codec for x264 playback. Sharks pack along with his "settings" application makes configuration very easy. Also the CoreAVC pro codec supports Nvidia's CUDA (hardware accelerated playback) on appropriate files. When CUDA is being used to playback a video file, the CPU use drops markedly as the GPU is doing most of the processing. I think you also need to be running one of the later 19X.XX series Nvidia drivers to enable CUDA support but I'm not 100% sure on this as it's been a while since I used a driver that doesn't support CUDA).

On making a bootable USB flash drive, I usually use a program called " Flashboot" to make them bootable, however, there are tutorials out there on how to do it manually and I've done it that way as well (see below). The demo version of Flashboot will work fine for making a USB flash drive or card bootable at least for time limited use. I put my W7 installation disk on a bootable 4 GB flash card to use it in the built in card reader on the DV8. To make that bootable flash card, I used a free app MS released called the " Windows 7 USB DVD Download Tool." It just asks to be pointed at the W7 install media and copies it over to any flash drive or card making it bootable in the process. I haven't tried to see if it might also be able to be used with non MS media.

Here's a tutorial I used to do it manually (before I found the MS app), perhaps you can adapt these instructions to accomplish your particular goal:


Creating Bootable Vista / Windows 7 USB Flash Drive
Published
by
Kevin
on December 20, 2008
in Geek
. Tags: boot, bootable, flash drive, install, usb, Vista, windows 7.
It surprised me to find that there are very few dead-simple guides to creating a bootable USB thumb/pen/flash drive for a Vista and/or Windows 7 installation. I cobbled together the following from VistaPCGuy and another source I don’t remember right now.
This will walk through the steps to create a bootable USB flash drive for the purpose of installing a Vista or Windows 7 OS. These instructions assume that you have a computer with Windows Vista installed on it. (Note: I did it from within W7 with no probs.)
Required:
• USB Flash Drive (4GB+)
• Microsoft OS Disk (Vista / Windows 7)
• A computer running Vista / Windows 7
Step 1: Format the Drive
The steps here are to use the command line to format the disk properly using the diskpart utility. [Be warned: this will erase everything on your drive. Be careful.]
1. Plug in your USB Flash Drive
2. Open a command prompt as administrator (Right click on Start > All Programs > Accessories > Command Prompt and select “Run as administrator”
3. Find the drive number of your USB Drive by typing the following into the Command Prompt window:
diskpart
list disk
The number of your USB drive will listed. You’ll need this for the next step. I’ll assume that the USB flash drive is disk 1.
4. Format the drive by typing the next instructions into the same window. Replace the number “1” with the number of your disk below.
select disk 1
clean
create partition primary
select partition 1
active
format fs=NTFS
assign
exit
When that is done you’ll have a formatted USB flash drive ready to be made bootable.
Step 2: Make the Drive Bootable
Next we’ll use the bootsect utility that comes on the Vista or Windows 7 disk to make the flash drive bootable. In the same command window that you were using in Step 1:
1. Insert your Windows Vista / 7 DVD into your drive.
2. Change directory to the DVD’s boot directory where bootsect lives:
d:
cd d:\boot
3. Use bootsect to set the USB as a bootable NTFS drive prepared for a Vista/7 image. I’m assuming that your USB flash drive has been labeled disk G:\ by the computer:
bootsect /nt60 g:
4. You can now close the command prompt window, we’re done here.
Step 3: Copy the installation DVD to the USB drive
The easiest way is to use Windows explorer to copy all of the files on your DVD on to the formatted flash drive. After you’ve copied all of the files the disk you are ready to go.
Step 4: Set your BIOS to boot from USB
This is where you’re on your own since every computer is different. Most BIOS’s allow you to hit a key at boot and select a boot option.

 

Thanks for the response, Peter.

Though your provided instructions apply to putting a protected mode OS onto a UFD from within a protected mode OS, I'll review them and see if any of it will work with my goal - making a DOS 6.22 bootable UFD. Putting a non-protected mode OS from INSIDE a protected mode OS is a much harder problem AFAICT.

The HP utility I described did a nice job of it but insisted on formatting entire UFD as FAT32 which was unacceptable. Only the "DiskPart" utility, that I had already used, seems to perform the partitioning and formatting correctly (as your instruction described).

On the face of it, it seems your instruction for making it bootable requires a Vista or Win 7 disk and of which I have neither! It's probably moot since it's patently clear to me that neither will let me put DOS 6.22 onto the UFD.

I'll look into the FlashBoot utility to see if it's applicable to my achieving my objective.

 

I think the Vista of Win 7 disk is mainly needed for the boot instructions (or whatever it's called). Doesn't the stuff you are wanting to put on the flash drive also contain it's own boot code which perhaps you could substitute for the W7/Vista code? (But I'm over my head here so perhaps I'm not making sense. )

 

Peter,
thanks for the post and I'll look into getting Sharks codecs. But still, that doesn't really explain the choppy playback from streaming youtube videos.

 

Couldn't that be due to your network connection not being able to download the video file fast enough to stream it smoothly?

That's the problem I usually have with youtube videos. So to solve it, I usually just download the file before attempting to play it. I don't know if that's difficult to do in your setup or not because I use a download manager (Internet Download Manager) that automatically provides that option whenever it sees a link to a file including youtube video files.

 

Peter, no. This all starts with the differences between protected mode and non-protected modes OSes and their respective filesystems. Thence, I have no way to substitute the non-protected mode DOS6.22 boot system for the Protected Mode (Win2k, XP, Visita, Win7) boot system after it's been applied. That will probably be impossible since the Protected Mode OSes want to make the UFD use FAT32 and DOS6.22 can't even read FAT32 (much less boot up from it).

On the same subject, I tried FlashBoot and found it unable 1) to utilize my DOS6.22 bootable floppy 2) to use existing FAT16 partition on my UFD, 3) to format less than the entire UFD, and 4) because of 3), unable to format my
UFD as FAT16. It looks like a great program and was worth a try ...

 

I'm talking about after it has already finished loading/buffering to the max...negating network connection

Edit: what bothers me is that, for example, I'm playing an mkv right now and it plays back flawlessly. Pause, rewind, fastforward all without a hiccup. I don't understand why the issue comes and goes

 

Good to see all the activity but perhaps someone missed my post above. I'm sorry for being impatient but I am mildly annoyed by my suddenly noisy DV8t. As I said, this is happening during routine events when the CPU is not even being pushed. Thanks.

 

I read it but had nothing to offer you. My fan occasionally increases in speed and becomes audible when it's normally silent. I haven't heard of anyone having a noise increase solely based on the software you're running ... normally it correlates well with CPU load and temperature.

Have you a temperature monitor program installed like CoreTemp or SpeedFan?

 

My guess is that the noisy fan is probably being caused by your GPU not down clocking properly. The GPU has three powerstates it can cycle between. Standard 2D which is 135 MHz GPU clock, Low Power 3D which is 400 MHz GPU clock, and High Performance 3D which is 500 MHz GPU clock, (all iirc).

Some nvidia video driver versions or particular installations of a driver version (which could possibly be corrupt) may fail to up clock and down clock correctly on demand as they should.

One of the metrics I routinely monitor (using Everest Ultimate, but I'm sure there are other free apps that one could use), in addition to various temperatures, is the GPU clock rate. While your computer is idling, the GPU clock should mostly be holding at 135 MHz (assuming it's not overclocked in the Standard 2D mode). So if you see it holding at 500 MHz for extended periods of time for no apparent reason, that could very likely be causing things to heat up a bit and the fan to ramp up in response in an effort to keep things cool (as it should) under those circumstances.

Many users who are into maximizing their video performance recommend going through a rather laborious process of uninstalling video drivers and cleaning the registry in safe mode before reinstalling one's chosen new video driver version in part in an effort to avoid problems like this, but I admit I don't always bother with that.

I would suggest using something to monitor the GPU clock rate to see if it is getting stuck at 500 MHz or not. If it is, a reinstall of the video driver and/or possibly changing to a different version, might help fix it. If not, doing the cleaning procedures mentioned prior to reinstalling the video driver might help. You could Google about nvidia driver installation procedures to find more detailed instructions, if needed.

Also, if the GPU clock rate is not the cause of the problem, even though you said your CPU usage is at or near zero, I would look a little deeper to make sure there is nothing running in the background that may be using more CPU than it should. You could look in Task Manager and click on the CPU heading to sort the list in order of CPU usage to see if there is anything going on there. (Or if you happen to have a free program called Process Lasso running (good app, btw), it is even easier to see and keep track of what is using CPU cycles with that apps main window "active processes" tab.)

Finally, if none of the above is the cause of the problem, it's also possible that there is dust in the fan or elsewhere in the cooling system that is blocking airflow somewhere that may be causing things to run hotter than they should. Checking for this would require opening the machine up and physically inspecting for dust and blowing it out if you find some.

 

Thanks guys for the response. I am in the IT industry and have been for fifteen years so I am pretty familiar with all that you are mentioning. I did check task manager and that is how I determined my CPU was at or near idle during these recent fan events. I am doing heavy rendering at the moment but later, can I use cPUid to check Gpu clock speed? Since this occurred just after nvidia drivers were updated I am leaning toward that being the cause.

Thanks

 

PHil.. I believe Tony Trim is basically custom settings from a guy names tony concerning perfectdisk 10 telling it to aggressively consolidate freespace.

 

Peter, I think you may have the right idea about the fan speed increasing due to high clocking and heat up of the GPU. I still haven't found any good way of tracking the GPU speed with freeware but I have found that I can see the GPU temp with SpeedFan.

I suggest icicle22 try SpeedFan to see if it shows the GPU temp spiking when he hears the fan noise ramp up.

 

I repeat my suggestion that you try SpeedFan to monitor the GPU temps and see if they correlate with the increased noise of the fan you hear. If it shows the correlation, then some changes to the video card drivers may be necessary to fix it.

 

That's really weird, Alan ... thanks for the reference and I'll have to look into it.

Until now, I have had no reason to believe that fragmentation adversely affects read speeds with SSDs. It might come into play with RAIDed SSDs though but I wouldn't expect a major effect there either. Shuffling pieces of files all over to defrag the SSDs seems like a great way to slow down the drive and greatly shorten its life due to increasing its read/write cycles.

Additional: I looked into Tony-Trim (TT). It is a procedure using PerfectDisk defragger to consolidate erased areas so their OS status and SSD status are efficiently brought into agreement. It is unnecessary and redundant on an SSD with GC (or TRIM) as the case with all our Samsung SSDs. TT should not be performed on our Samsung SSDs.

 

The program "as cleaner 0.5" seems to have positive results.. problem is.. I can't find it.

So far, I've found not garbage collection software.....

CCleaner writes "supposedly 0's" to the disk which are in turn changed to "1s"... "or something like that... but people have reported mixed reviewed from that too.

Oh well... guess its no bid deal just yet... People keep thinking the new firmware will be out soon.

Do you know if it will be destructive the the drive contents to upgrade the firmware?

Correction... after hours of looking I finally found it here.... its called something different is why its so hard to find.

 

Are the programs you're looking at specifically designed for ssd's or hdd's?

The only things I've heard of as being "good" for ssds are TRIM and Intel's toolkit for intel drives.

 

The "as cleaner" program is talked about here... scroll down about 55 - 60% down the page once you get to that link.

 

They are used to achieve different objectives but they work with either SSD or HDD. They are being discussed because of major shortcomings in current SSDs lacking TRIM firmware.

TRIM (part of the Intel toolkit) has become the "gold standard" for keeping SSD performance at the level of a new "clean" SSD without significantly shortening its life.

 

No software is needed for GC as it's in the Samsung SSD firmware and operates automatically. TRIM, also in the firmware, is the successor to GC and operates on smaller quantities of uncleaned cells so it maintains SSD performance better. This is basically about correcting the mismatch between what the OS is told is available space on the SSD and what the SSD can make available to the OS as available space. Inherently, this mismatch develops and slows down the performance level when the OS tries to write in "open space" and the SSD hasn't actually performed the extra step of restoring the empty space so the OS can write there so the computer WAITS, as I understand it, while the SSD cleans that space and makes it available. GC waits for large blocks to develop before it does the cleanup while TRIM does it in smaller blocks as it develops which maintains a higher level of performance.

I sure hope it comes out soon! But I'm not optimistic...

I believe that the firmware update package from Samsung for their 256gb PM800 erases the contents of the SSD - they are VERY CLEAR that all the contents should be "backed up" before performing the update. I would think that that could avoided by properly designing of the update package.

Off to try to update my SSD firmware today... wish me luck!

 

Alan have you found and downloaded Hiren's BootCD v.10.4 yet?

If not, try this:
MEGAUPLOAD - The leading online storage and file delivery service
It should do the job for you, buddy.. It was working when I tried it 5 minutes ago!

 

You can definitely use the free trial demo of Everest Ultimate, if you can't find anything else, to monitor GPU clock speed directly. In Everest look for the "sensors" menu item on the left tree. I would also check out PC Wizard which is a free app but I don't recall if that one tracks GPU clock or not among it's many monitors. Also, I'm not sure but possibly Riva Tuner might allow one to see what the current GPU clock speed is. However, iirc, there are some procedures that have to be followed to get the current version of Riva Tuner to work with the 230m. I did it at one time and have it on my system but I don't recall the procedure. I'm sure a Google search on Riva Tuner and 230m would probably bring up the solution.

 

If this hasn't already been gone over recently: To get ready for an SSD, just move all the user data files over to the secondary internal drive (see User Folders - Change Default Location - Windows 7 Forums for the correct and easiest way to do that), and then clone or restore an image backup of what's left on what is now the OS/APP drive to the SSD. The SSD can be connected via a hard drive dock (if you have one of these useful and inexpensive pieces of hardware) and cloned using the demo version of Acronis (or Macrium Reflect, or one of Paragon's backup programs, both of which have free versions, iirc).

Also, I believe even with the demo version of Acronis TIH, one can and probably should make a bootable "rescue" CD which contains the whole Acronis program and allows one to boot directly into it from the "rescue" CD. This makes it possible to restore a back up image which has been stored on another external drive to a new hard drive even if the original hard drive has completely died.

With this rescue CD, one could install the still empty SSD and use the Acronis rescue CD to boot up with and restore a back up image of the original HD (made after the user files have already been moved to another location using the method described above). Before doing this, one would first have to use Acronis TIH or similar app to make a backup image of the original HD ( sans user files) which should be stored on an external HD, or even on one of the internal drives.

So even if you can't clone it, you can still make an image backup of it, ideally to any external drive, once again using Acronis or similar, then install the still blank SSD, boot from the Acronis rescue (boot) CD and restore the backed up image file to the newly installed SSD and you're done, (except for whatever else may have to be done to optimze the system for using an SSD).

The SSD should boot right up after that. If it doesn't, a Windows 7 install or repair disk will allow you to perform "start up repair" and it should then work fine. Windows 7 "start up repair" may even pop up automatically if there is any problem with the MBR after the restore or cloning. But I've restored back up images made with Acronis to bare drives and seen them work fine most of the time.

Another, probably less reliable (haven't tested this one yet), free program that could be used is DriveImage XML - V2.13 for Windows which offers the following:

Image and Backup logical Drives and Partitions File Size:1.78 MB Price: Private Edition Free

System Requirements: Pentium Processor - 256 MB RAM Windows XP, 2003, Vista, or Windows 7

Product Highlights
* Backup logical drives and partitions to image files
* Browse images, view and extract files
* Restore images to the same or a different drive
* Copy directly from drive to drive
* Schedule automatic backups
* Run DriveImage from WinPE boot CD-ROM Image and Backup logical Drives and Partitions

DriveImage XML is an easy to use and reliable program for imaging and backing up partitions and logical drives. Image creation uses Microsoft's Volume Shadow Services (VSS), allowing you to create safe "hot images" even from drives currently in use. Images are stored in XML files, allowing you to process them with 3rd party tools. Never again be stuck with a useless backup! Restore images to drives without having to reboot. DriveImage XML is now faster than ever, offering two different compression levels. DriveImage XML runs under Windows XP, Windows Server 2003, Vista and Windows 7 only. The program will backup, image and restore drives formatted with FAT 12, 16, 32 and NTFS.

 

Yes, it was reviewed in some detail day before yesterday, Peter. I have no differences with you except the choice of cloning software. Instead of AcronisTIH (which may cost $$ to keep) or DriveImageXML (which gives some problems), I recommend the use of Ghost32 v11.5 which is included with the Hiren's BootCD I provided a download link for earlier this morning. I'm in the midst of doing the Samsung SSD firmware update and have already made and successfully tested two complete clones (C: partition on SSD and D: partition on 500gb HDD) to other 500gb HDDs since lunch. Very simple compared to using AcronisTIH and my Ghost copy on CD won't expire or require payment next month.

Next I'll wipe SSD and Secure Erase it before applying the Samsung Firmware update.

If it fails miserably, I can copy the SSD clone back to the SSD in less than 25 minutes with Ghost and have it back up and running.

 

I would agree, Peter, if he first finds the fan noise spikes when the GPU temp shown in a simple monitor like SpeedFan does. Then, he can look at the frequencies in Everest Ultimate trial to see how changes in video settings (or drivers!) affect them, etc.

 

Well re cloning software everyone is entitled to have their own favorite. Mine happens to be Acronis. I find Acronis extremely reliable and easy to use for cloning. Been using it for so long I can almost do it in my sleep. Last time I tried Ghost (a long time ago), I found it rather arcane, but I'm sure it must have been improved since then. But there are many good free cloning solutions out there. I just happen to have and use the paid version of Acronis, so it tends to be the first thing I recommend. But I think even the free (not time limited) versions available from Western Digital and Seagate (aka Maxtor) for those who have one of those drives hooked into their systems, may also do a good job of cloning, possibly to any drive, not just those companies drives, iirc.

Anyway, the important thing is the procedure/method, not the particular software one prefers to use.

Also, I'm not sure of this but I wonder whether if one uses the demo version of Acronis to make the Acronis bootable rescue disk, which puts the whole program on a bootable CD that runs in some pre windows environment, whether the rescue CD thusly made would be full featured and without time limitation. It's very possible it would be and it's really easy to boot with the CD and make clones.

 

Imo, looking at GPU temps first is not the best way to investigate whether there is a problem with the GPU not up clocking or downclocking properly when it's supposed to. If it's clocking at 500 MHz when it shouldn't be, that is a problem that needs to be fixed whether it affects the GPU temp or not, simply because it's wasting power and needlessly stressing components. In fact, if the cooling system (fan) is working properly, the GPU temp may be held down by the fan, so looking just at GPU temp is not necessarily going to be a reliable indicator of whether there is a problem with the GPU clock. It doesn't make sense to me to look first at an indirect indicator of a problem with GPU clock rate when the direct indicator is easily available to check.

 

Peter, I have to disagree again - not my day I guess.

If the fan noise goes up drastically, checking the temps for the CPUs and GPU with a simple utility like SpeedFan is the simple direct way to establish which fans are involved. Since Icicle22 hasn't told us anything that has been tried, I think that using a simple utility is better than using a complex one like Everest Ultimate (unless he already has it and is familiar with it).

BTW, you kindly recommended EU to me to check GPU frequencies several weeks ago and I put in on my machine. I found it to be a VERY COMPLEX product reminiscent of the old AIDA32 program. It took me over half an hour to find the information in it you posted about the WiFi Advanced-N 6200 card, for example. Even longer to locate GPU frequency monitoring.

Furthermore, we are ASSUMING that the issue (and in your case, even to the point of diagnosing the cause of the problem with the GPU controls) is the video GPU. A simple check of that premise with a simple to use freeware program like SpeedFan seems the best place to start.

To your second point in which you assert that high fan speed somewhere wouldn't be reflected in temps is probably plain wrong. From and engineering standpoint, this is a chicken and egg issue - the sensors must see a temperature rising before they speed up to control it! I doubt they are clairvoyant - ha-ha! Hence checking temps to see what is hot enough to trigger such noise from fast cooling fans does not seem so unreasonable.

 

We'll just have to agree to disagree on all these points.

 

I agree that both can do the job. I have used both and find the free version of Ghost32 (that I referred to, which is the current version not several years old) MUCH easier to use for cloning.

The Ghost program is a small, simple program (less than 5 mb compared to nearly 117mb for Acronis TIH). If you want to do a simple, quick cloning job, I recommend Ghost. If you want a full-featured backup and recovery solution, from my testing of it, Acronis TIH looks like a winner.

While I agree with your procedural approach, I cannot agree that the tools you use are not equally important, IMHO, and warrant the discussion. I like simple procedures with simple tools. If the tools are large, cumbersome, and complex, the learning curve can interfere with the reader accomplishing the end result. As we engineers are taught, "keep it simple, stupid!", or KISS, is the best way to get things done with a minimum of errors and mistakes. Just my opinion.

 

You seem be be withdrawing when the discussion turns to scientific facts (like what triggers the fans to speed up) as they leave little to disagree about.

On the matters of opinion, I can agree to disagree with you agreeably.

 

I'm new to this, so if I'm posting in the wrong thread... I apologize in advance.

I have a dv8t and I'm wondering if anyone would be so kind as to go to device manager and tell me what their blu-ray burning drive model is?

The burner was no longer an option when I purchased, and I'd like to see if I can track one down to upgrade my lappy with.

Thanks!

 

sure... Mine is a "hp BD ROM BC-5501H

Looks like it may have firmware 2.88 if I"m reading that right under hardware IDs

yes, they are on again, off again about having those blueray CDroms..... and I bet they won't send you one once they get them in will they?

Oh Well.. maybe you can find one.

 

No, HP customer support.. well, it's laughable at best.

I appreciate the help, I'm going to see if I can find a burner and just do it myself!

Just to verify (because it says BD ROM right in the name) this is a Blu-Ray burning drive, not just a blu-ray reader?

Thanks again!

 

Just busy with other things atm and feel I have adequately stated my POV on this subject.

 

Thought I'd offer my 2 cents on the Zalman (the bigger one, NC2000 or something?)
- Works like a charm! Right now I'm idling in the high 30's/low 40's. This is after my comp has just been sitting on for 6 hours with about an hour of use in this past hour.

 

Wow, that's really quite a bit cooler than mine gets with the NC2000. Lowest CPU temp I've seen mine hit is in the low 50's (currently @ 58-59 with the Zalman on lowest fan speed). I must have a lot more stuff going on in the background, plus dual mechanical hard drives don't help.

 

hp BDRW BR-TD01HA
FW 1R09
BluRay BURNER (although I have yet to burn a bluRay

 

Thanks!

I'll look for that one!

 

just not on the science-based reasoning in my last post...