How To: Clean the Heatsink/Fan Assembly on a dv2xxx.

** NOTICE: If you do not feel confident about doing this fix yourself, thats ok, being worried about opening a notebook is perfectly normal. You can always find someone who is capable of doing it or if your notebook is still under warranty,(which it should be) you can always send it in to be serviced. **

Best place to work on a PCB or electrical device is; Kitchen(tiled) or bathroom. Avoid carpet, and to be extra safe take off your shoes and socks...


Ok, now we'll start;


Step 1.

a) Remove all power from the notebook.(never a good idea to work on a computer thats on ~) This includes; Ac Adapter, Battery, and any USB device.

b) Start unscrewing all the labeled screws and arrange them on your post it note groups(use the image included).




Step 2.

a) Now turn over the notebook, open the lid (careful, the keyboard may be loose inside and can fall out partially), The power panel and keyboard will now be loose and are ready to be removed.

b) Take your soft durable piece of plastic (your listerine pack), locate the left side gap between the bottom case and power panel, and pry the corner closest. It should come up pretty easily, if it does not make sure you got all the screws you needed to from the bottom of the notebook.



c) Once you pop up that side you should be able to get a grip of the keyboard, pull the keyboard towards you, you don't have to disconnect it, once its out of the way you should be able to get your fingers under the power panel, you'll hear some clicking... but don't worry thats normal.



d) Now the power panel should only be connected by 2 connectors. The power switch and the media touchpad. First unplug the power switch, BE VERY CAREFUL, try not to pull on it with the cord... the power buttons are very fragile, try and get your 2 index fingers to pull the top corners. It can be hard but it will come out, try wiggling it.



e) All thats left is the media touch pad. using your 2 thumbs and/or index fingers pull up on the either side of the input, should be fairly easy to get open. Then remove the power panel.


Step 3.

a) Now that you have removed all the top case attachments, we're going to remove the screws holding the top case down, Use the screw map to remove the; D and A screws.



b) Now that you have removed all the D and A screws, we will remove the C and B screws. A couple things before you do that though, go through and unhook all the wire running through the top casing. Once you have freed all those wire from the top casing, pull your LCD Assembly up to a 90 degree angle(straight up). I will explain in the next section.

c) Now while holding the LCD Assembly, remove the first C screw and the first B screw. After that, remove the second C and the second B screw, we do this as a safty precaution in case while something happens after you take out the screw(s). Now all the screws should be out of the top case, and the LCD Assembly should be loose, just simply pull your LCD Assembly straight up. It should come off without issue.

d) To remove the top casing with either you finger nails or a your plastic tool, pry apart the top/bottom casing on either side and pull up, make sure the touch pad is disconnected. The entire casing should come straight up and off of your unit.


Step 4.

a) Now you should be staring at the guts of your notebook, looks pretty intimidating doesn't it? Its really not so you don't have to worry. Start by unplugging anything that is attached to the bottom and right sides of the logic board(motherboard). Using the Logic map below, Unscrew anything inside the Blue boxes, and Unplug anything in the Green Boxes.



b) Everything should be unplugged, clear of the logic board. Using your right hand maneuver it under the right side of the logic. Gently pull up on the right side as shown in the picture below. It should come up fairly easily, If you find it hard to pull up then wiggle it slowly back and forth.



c) Now continue pulling the right side up until you feel little to no resistance from the bottom case. Then slowly pull the logic out and to the right, as shown in the picture below.




Step 5.

a) Now that you have the logic out, place it on a static free surface, i.e. rubber(best), wood, cement, etc.... No Cloth or Leather like material.



b) Flip your logic over so you see your 2 sticks of ram as well as your heatsink and fan. Unscrew the 4 screws on the heatsink in order(each screw has a number you can go up or down, it doesn't matter). Once unscrewed the cross beam on the bottom of the logic will come off, all thats left now is to unplug the fan on the opposite side of the ram and heatsink.

c) Now that you have your heatsink/fan assembly off, unscrew the 3 screws on the top of the fan, and the cover will flip forward allowing you to clean it thoroughly.



** Cleaning tips: You can use virtually anything you to clean it, except liquids... liquids may has erosion on the fans motor or the heatsink itself. Recommended: toothbrush(an old one you aren't planning on using again...), compressed air, lint brush, etc. **


ADDITIONAL NOTES:

When putting heatsink back on your logic 3 things you need to make sure of;

** Make sure the Processor is in the locked position.

** Make sure the connector from the fan is clear, and isn't wedged between the heatsink/fan assem. and the logic.



** Place Crossbeam on bottom of logic before attempting to screw the heatsink/fan assembly back on. Below are a couple pictures to better explain.





If you have any questions, corrections and/or comments, Please feel free to post.

Hope this helps.... good luck.

 

Awesome thanks for this... rep you again when i can.

Will doing this void my warranty? .. i was thinking of cleaning my fans in a few months time and using arctic silver for thermal paste. I can start to see abit of dust forming already

 

These days, there is no real way for them to tell if you did it or another service company did it... we all get units randomly and also based on location.... So no as far as they can tell it was just another service company.

 

nice write up...it's very very similiar for the DV6000 too

 

yeah the dv2000 and the dv6000 are very close in case setup, but their boards do vary quite a bit.

 

Ohh right.. cause i saw a few stickers that says "do not remove, will void warranty" or something like that. I just wanna make sure i do not void my 3 year warranty

Is changing notebook thermal paste as easy as desktops? I plan to use arctic silver 5. Can you add in a guide on how to change this aswell? (if its not too much trouble)

Thanks alot

 

Great tutorial FunnyX. But isn't there any other way to get the job done. I am pretty apprehensive about this move. Maybe using a Vacuum cleaner or something?

 

These days thermal paste is somewhat obsolete. The way heatsinks work these days, is there is a gel like substance between the heatsink and a thin square of aluminum.

The reason they changed to this format is because its more affective and move reliable. Thermal paste, believe it or not, actually has a life span.... Once thermal paste was at the end of its life span, it would harden and actually do more harm then good.

These days by adding thermal paste, you actually insulate the heat rather then disperse it.

 

Really the only other way to get it as clean as cleaning it by hand is by using an air compressor... the kinda you would use to fill the tires on your car... if you look the 'sinks' in your heatsink you can see they are much to small to allow clumps of hair out... and even a air compressor would just blow the dusk out of the clumps.... little else...

 

I thought they used thermal paste and pads..

Yes ive heard of this lifespan issue before but I actually plan to re-apply the paste every 6 months or so the same time i clean my fan again.

Ive seen a few reviews on its effectiveness and was pretty impressed

 

Sorry for the late reply.

I understand where your coming from, you could do it and have it make the heat transfer a lot smoother... but I don't recommend it.

The reason I don't recommend it, somewhat pertains to the question you asked in your earlier post about the warranty. Your warranty should be fine if you just stick to the rule of not adding anything to your machine. Dealing with so many units a day you always try and find the quickest answer to most problems(or find something to blame) so you can get that unit out and back into the EU's hands.

By adding (additional) thermal paste they automatically know it was put there by an EU, because no servicer adds anymore to the unit then what it originally came with. I have a feeling this will become the 'scape goat' and your unit will be less likely to get the proper treatment during the first service.

 

I guess your right, it be obvious and void my warranty. I should have stuck with 1 year warranty instead of 3 years. HP wont let you touch anything hardware, they wouldnt even let me upgrade my RAM, but i did anyway.

Cheers

 

Is there anyway to upgrade the main fan? Like replace it with a more efficient or quieter one? I have a dv9000 and while I have not taken it apart to the extent you have shown, the set ups is at least somewhat similar. If the fan is replaceable it would be really nice to get a better one to help deal with the 9000 series heat problems.

 

Sadly its not possible, as far as I know...

Most fan's screw lay out are slightly different from one another, making it nearly impossible to swap different unit's Fan Assemblies. But I could be wrong, if you find a fan with the same screw layout and diameter... it should work, voltages don't very too much between fans.

 

Great article thanks, I have an HP pavillion ze2000 which is overheating and shutting down quite often.

I intend to disassemble it and clean the heat sink and fan. However I don't want to do that and suddenly find that I need this gel you mention in reply to a comment.

Can you add to the top of your article a list of things needed before disassembly?

 

- screwdriver
- A brain with IQ of 90+
- toothbrush/compressed air.
- thermal paste (optional)

I suggest reading your service manual first. It should all be in there

 

You can find the service manual at hp.com, in case you need to know how to open the HP ze2000.

 

Unfortunately the manual says nothing about brains, toothbrushes, compressed air or thermal paste. It gives no clue about how to go about cleaning the heat sink and fan either. and yet it has the temerity to be named 'Maintenance and service guide'. It is good on disassembling though ... Just as well ... because to get to the heatsink and fan, there's a heck of a lot of disassembling.

cheers
Deadline99

 

Of course not. HP coins the term 'Maintenance' as replacing parts

Its common sense on how to clean fans. The manual just tells you how to pull it apart.
-Toothbrush
-Compresed Air
-Cloth

Personally i use all 3 when doing serious cleaning. The tootbrush to scrub away the big bits. Compressed air to blow away little bits and a damp cloth of methylated spirits to purify it

 

Nice manual, thanks. You wrote

, does that mean, the processor has a socket and can be removed? A HP technican told me, that all Pavillions have a soldered CPU which can not be removed.

thanks,
noplan

 

Almost all of the new HP's use socketed processors other than those which use ULV processors and special versions like the Voodoo envy 133. most likely the technician mentioned that they are not socketed most likely due to the fact that HP doesnt make it easy for the end user to upgrade. To access the cpu you would have to completely disassemble the cpu.

 

Why does your dv2000 has 2 wireless card slots? is it one of the wireless broadband serries?

 

You can definately change a dv2000's CPU. HP tends to give out misinformation

Yes WLAN and WWAN

 

Hi to all, im new here, my cpu burned out so i bought a new one but taking it to hp people is really expensive, i have plenty experience in desktops but never changed a laptop cpu, i saw how to disassembly the laptop (mine is dv2125nr with turion x2 processor) will i be able to change the processor by myself? i can see in pictures that nothing keeps it in the right position so what should i do?

(sorry about bad english)

Thanks for help.

 

Thanks FunnyX, it's obvious that you spend quite a bit time and effort in this post.

A question - I used these instruction to pull the motherboard out in order to replace it (NVidia graphics controller died), but now I'm confused regarding the part number i need to order...

I have a Pavilion DV2000, The sticker on the back has:
Product: BU IDS PM/G72M-Z FF+ DV2100
p/n: RM668AV

According to the Maintenance and Service Guide for HP Pavilion dv2000 Notebook PC (which I d/l from HP website), the system board part number for "PM/G72M- Z" is 440777-001, but the sticker on the board I just pulled out is saying "Replace with HP Spare 417035-001", which according to the Service Guide, is used in "PM/G72M- V" systems...

and I'm confused
Can you help?

Thanks,
David.

 

It's best to let HP replace the motherboard for free under their enhanced warranty:
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?lc=en&dlc=en&cc=us&docname=c01087277
but plan on being without your notebook for weeks. They still have mine.

 

Thanks very much for the guide.

However after installing the new fan into my hp when I tried to power it back up

"Operating System not found"

flashes repeatedly on the screen, is there any obvious reason why this would happen, did I miss one of the plugs during reassembly.

 

This Link will show you how to change it, but it's not for everyone as many of the internal components are very fragile and if you're not use to handling them they will beak easily. I know of technicians that will do an CPU update for under $50 replacement is no different, ring around.

P.S.I cleaned my fan a month ago, a tooth bush won't get that sticky crap off either, a cotton bud or even one dipped in methylated sprits worked for me and an alternative to a tooth bush is a small painters bush (picture painter) they have softer bristles.

 

what is the gel that you refer to?

 

i got a question about the two thin wires running out of the LCD monitor, how do u remove them, they are attached in the rear!

 

SWEET guide and AWESOME pics man!!!!

 

Hi all,

FunnyX, thanks for all the informations & pics.

I have a faulty dv2000 notebook with Intel chip & nvidia geoforce7200m, was wondering if the dv2000 you dissembled has the same motherboard as mine:

Hp replacement electronic part: 417035-001
Motherboard (system board) without memory - Full-featured (FF), nVIDIA G72M-Z PCI Express x16 lane graphic controller.

Could you please list the Hp replacement no. of dv2000 dissembled?

Thanks in advance

 

In an attempt to clean the heatsink/fan assembly(overheat issue), I found one screw that would not unscrew totally and one screw head that appeared to be stripped (the laptop was previously serviced by HP and I assume it was stripped by one of their techs). Any suggestions on how to remove a stripped screw?

 

Ok, so I did this to my computer because I had noticed temperatures were very hot all under the computer and I stopped feeling any kind of breeze coming out of the exhaust. So I did this DIY and found the entire exit fins covered in dust.

So I cleaned everything out, and after assembling back together the computer runs so much cooler. My only problem is that the horrible motor sound is still there. There is also no air being "pushed" out trough the exhaust. I'm guessing the bearings on the motor on the motor itself might of failed from the extensive periods of high heat.

Here is a video I made.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=89dmuKDHYoM

 

I have a 3 year old compaq v2000 series that has been running hot. Just today I took it apart and cleaned. I chose to replace the gel/aluminum square because I think it was too old. The aluminum piece even had black marks on it like it was burnt.

I put arctic silver brand ceramic compound in place of this and my system temperature dropped from 63 degrees to 52.

While I was cleaning i broke the cmos battery and had to solder it back in place.

 

Hey FunnyX,

I know you have posted the way to disassembly HP DV2000
However, I have a new problem I just got the laptop about
three months..

There is a high pitch to sound coming from around the fan around,
and where is plug in the power cord the screen keep going bright
and then bim.. and the battery sign show that it is plug in AC then
switch back to battery and keep do that.

Also when I plug in the AC power cord the funny sricking noise or
high pitch noise from the computer [around the fan and where the
AC power plug into].

Thanks I welcome again suggestion right now..

you can email me on [email protected] or just reply.... i guess

Thanks again..

 

Wow, fantastic!!
I don't know if you still monitor this thread, but I hope so.
A friend had a dv2210us that died last July(out of warranty, but they replaced the mb at no charge anyway). Within two months it was shutting off every 10 minutes or so. He got fed up with it, and went and bought a new one(Acer).
He just gave it to me, said if I could fix it I could have it. It looks brand new, but it was idling at 70 degrees(plugged in), and 62(on battery), and opening Firefox shot it up to 85. Unacceptable...I've done pc repair and networks for almost 20 years, but I NEVER in a million years would have attempted this job without your most excellent guide. Now I understand why replacing a lappy mb is an expensive job, although I guess if you work on the same model over and over, you could probably do it much more quickly.
Anyway, once I got the heatsink off, I was shocked at the amount of thermal paste that was slathered everywhere! It looks like they used a whole frickin tube, dripping it all over the processor, the socket, the mb, etc...
Unfortunately, my heat problem is with the gpu, not the proc. I was hoping that I could clean the gpu and apply some of my own thermal paste(in the proper amount), but I see how thick that green pad is that covers the gpu. I'm afraid that if I remove it and apply some paste that the heat sink won't even make contact.
I guess my question is...if I remove that pad, will the heatsink, once screwed back on, even touch the gpu? I can't really tell by looking at it. Has anyone tried this with any success? The fan is clean, so all I have really accomplished is learning how to keep track of a ton of tiny screws...
That pad just doesn't look very capable of transferring much heat, and the fact that these models are dying by the thousands seems to bear that out.
I hope to hear back, and I PRAY that this thing works when I get it put back together.

 

Well, its back together and everything seems to be 'functioning within normal parameters'...hehe
It's still outrageously hot. It was at 53 on startup, but all I had to do was start the screensaver and it kicked up to 61.
I don't even want to do any gaming. I would be happy with firefox and visual studio. I just cannot have it shutting down in the middle of a compile. Is there anything else I can do to cool that gpu? Maybe replace that little rubbery pad with a 'better' version?
If I thought it would help I would buy a new motherboard, I see new ones on ebay for a hundred bucks. Now that I know what I'm doing, I can replace it in a half an hour...I just dont want to end up with another disfunctional chipset.

 

You can do a copper heatsink mod. On dv6000's the chipset uses one of thoes little pads to fill the gap. The copper heatsink mod is putting a small peice of copper inbetween the heatsink and the chipset/video card and putting thermal paste on both sides. I did it and it reduced my temperatures 20°C

 

Great guide! I lowered my max temps by 15°C.

 

I just finished another guide for a HP Pavilion dv2000 notebook.

In my guide I explain how to remove and replace the damaged LCD screen.





LCD screen removal guide for HP Pavilion dv2000 notebook.

Also, you can use these instructions for removing and replacing the inverter board.

 

There is a guide of how to do the copper mod here. It is done in a Dell laptop, but the steps are basically the same. I have not done this yet, but I have read that works for most of the people.

Has anyone done it on a HP pavillion before?

 

Sorry for my english...

I took apart my laptop dv2000 and I unplugged the wire that is
connected between the mouse pad and the motherboard.

The problem is that I dont kwnow how to conect the little wire correctly.

I tried conect it many forms but I could make it works.

I'll be grateful if somebody could help me.

Thanks.

 

In step 3 picture there is a set of wires running from the lcd screen, top right. it has 5 wires inside of a heat/protecter sleeve. it plugs into the mother board. from reading your directions i am assuming its the wi-fi wires. is this correct? there is a larger plug right next to it but those wires are under metal panel. back to the 5 wire set. while un plugging said wires from board, the lil white plug broke. not on the board, but the plug attached to the wires. now i am at a lost of what to do. i cant seem to find a plug to re attach to those wires so i can plug in back on to the board. the set of wires runs from the board up into the lcd. if i open the lcd is there another plug at that end of said wires? should i replace just the plug or do i have to replace the whole set of wires? either case, where do i find what i need?

 

This was very helpful. Thank you

 

Just a big thank you for this write up. Gave me the courage to opened up a T2050 HP Pavilion DV2000 to clean the dreaded fan/dust as the CPU was running > 60 degrees idle, fan constantly on and would occasionally switch off during high loading or when the ambient temps were higher than usual.

What I discovered was somewhat startling. The copper heatsink is a square cutout that attaches to the heatpipe. The heatpipe had a blob in it so the heatsink was not sitting square/flush in the insert. This in turn meant the heatsink was making a partial angled contact with the cpu and the foil/gel contact was non existent!!

Anyway, heatsink was dismantled from the heatpipe, shaved out the blob, reattached heatpipe+heatsink with liquid metal epoxy paste + thermal paste so the heatsink sat flush and square. Temps have dropped significantly. Now the fan is hardly on anymore.

Makes me wonder how many DV2000's suffered premature failure due to a factory defect with the heatsink/heatpipe assembly. Advise anyone with high temps to have a good look at it to ensure their's too isn't sitting angled on the cpu.

 

Thanks for the How to. I hosed my BIOS and nothing I do seems to restore it. I'm considering replacing the motherboard. Where can I purchase one at a reasonable price?

 

ebay. 10char

 

FunnyX: Thanks alot for the guide, its excellent. However, it seems like your photobucket account is inactive. I would really love those pictures again since I have torn apart my computer and cant remember which screws that go where lol

 

There's a google-translated duplicate with what appears to be using the same images as the first post of this thread did.