How To: Fix dv2000 Lid Switch(Backlight) issue.

How To: Fix dv2000 Lid Switch(Backlight) issue.

History;
First off, a little background on this fix. Since the dv2000s came out we've been getting these almost non-stop. For a while we were replacing the lid switch completely, which was a very long process and was always destine to fail again, sometimes within less then a month. So we decided its easier to just remove the lid switch from the equation which we were reluctant to do at first because of a negative side affect of losing the 'Standby' lid shut option. But ultimately there is nothing you can do to about it, the problem will always be there. So it'll save you lots of time and effort if you just disable it.

Why does it happen?;
In the past most notebooks have had pretty robust lid switch which could only really cause a problem if broken off... With the dv2000 hp decided it needed a very small lid switch for such a small model... The problem with this is there is little no no clearance on either side of the leaver switch, so after time goes on hair and dust can easily get caught inside the notebook and make its way up to the switch until it completely stops the switch from decompressing.



Is this Really your Issue?

Though in some cases this is considered a Preventative fix, its still better to see if this is actually your issue before you go opening it up... Here are a couple ways to tell;

* Hold the screw up to the light and see if you can see anything.... You maybe able to see some very faint black flashing.
* Use and external monitor and hook it up to the VGA port on the side.



What you need to make this fix;
a) Phillips screw driver. (recommend you use one with a sharp point.
b) Post its. (not needed but recommended)
c) Pen. (if you got the Post Its...)
d) A soft durable piece of plastic. (i.e. a Listerine Pocketpak case)




Getting started:
Write these 4 groups on your Post Its;
BC Screws
KB Screws
PP Screws
TC Screws

[BC = Bottom Case] [KB = Keyboard] [PP = Power Panel][TC = Top Case]


This is so you keep track of what screws go where, putting the wrong screw in the wrong place can prove to be disastrous... you make what we cal 'screw nipples'. These can; look very bad, decrease the value of the notebook, and in some cases penetrate the case...

** NOTICE: If you do not feel confident about doing this fix yourself, thats ok, being worried about opening a notebook is perfectly normal. You can always find someone who is capable of doing it or if your notebook is still under warranty,(which it should be) you can always send it in to be serviced. **





Ok, now we'll start;


Step 1.

a) Remove all power from the notebook.(never a good idea to work on a computer thats on ~) This includes; Ac Adapter, Battery, and any USB device.



b) Start unscrewing all the labeled screws and arrange them on your post it note groups(use the image included). You will remove a total of 8 screws; 3 long, 3 medium, and 2 short.




Step 2.

a) Now turn over the notebook, open the lid (careful, the keyboard may be loose inside and can fall out partially), The power panel and keyboard will now be loose and are ready to be removed.

b) Take your soft durable piece of plastic (your listerine pack), locate the left side gap between the bottom case and power panel, and pry the corner closest. It should come up pretty easily, if it does not make sure you got all the screws you needed to from the bottom of the notebook.

c) Once you pop up that side you should be able to get a grip of the keyboard, pull the keyboard towards you, you don't have to disconnect it, once its out of the way you should be able to get your fingers under the power panel, you'll hear some clicking... but don't worry thats normal.



d) Now the power panel should only be connected by 2 connectors. The power switch and the media touchpad. First unplug the power switch, BE VERY CAREFUL, try not to pull on it with the cord... the power buttons are very fragile, try and get your 2 index fingers to pull the top corners. It can be hard but it will come out, try wiggling it.



e) All thats left is the media touch pad. using your 2 thumbs and/or index fingers pull up on the either side of the input, should be fairly easy to get open. Then remove the power panel.


Step 3.

a) Now you will need to removed 2 more screws, they are located in the middle back of the unit. Use the image for reference.



b) Now heres the tricky part. You will need to pull back the medal which is covering the logic to be able to see and remove the input. You can do this 1 of 2 ways;

The Hard way: While holding up the metal over the input, try and get your finger and a tool on either side and wiggle it out.

The Easy way: Get come metal clippers or even scissors and cut the small while that extends out the read of the plug.

Either way gets the job done.... and don't worry its ok for you to leave that plug in the input after you clip it, it won't hurt anything...




Step 4.

a) Now screw your TC Screws back in. Plug both your Media Touch pad, and Power switch back in. Carefully put the panel back on, be sure to tilt it up so the rear of the panel fits flush with the rear LCD hinge guard. Once you get the back in position you can push down either side of the panel, you should hear a couple of snaps.

b) Now take your keyboard put the bottom of the keyboard into the groves located just about the touch pad. Once you have it in the slots you can push about 2 inches down from the top right of the keyboard, it should click under that tab, there are 3 more tabs like that vertically and horizontally of that initial tab.

c) The keyboard should be secure enough to move. Flip it over and start on the final step.


Step 5.

a) insert the screws into the proper positions, please review the image from step 1 to know where to put which screws.




Hope that helps.... Please post if you have any questions.

 

If you find that this does not work, and you still are getting no video. Then your notebook could have possible BGA issues. dv20xx series is know for BGA issues. This requires you to send it to be serviced.

 

These guides will come handy.. thanks! rep'd

 

I know all this talk about dv2000s have people scared... if you have one and you haven't had problems yet here are some tips on how to prevent your laptop from having serious issues.

Tips:

• Resist from putting pressure on the left side of your unit. Below the keyboard to the left of your touchpad.
• Keep your Heatsink and Fan clean, with a air compressor(recommended) or a can of compressed air.
• Try not to leave your laptop on for long periods of time.
• Its best not to move your laptop during use, or wait 15-20 seconds after shutting it down to move it around.
• Resist pressing hard on the bottom left of your keyboard and touchpad.
• Refrained from hitting your computer, and if you are going to hit it.... wait till it cools down a little, and maybe you will follow its lead...
• Do not shut down your computer if it appears to have froze, wait at least 2-3 minutes before manually shutting down your unit.
• If your computer's battery is running low, shut down and charge for a while.
• NEVER START YOUR UNIT WITH A CRITICALLY LOW BATTERY!! This WILL cause a glitch in your system which causes sometimes FATAL issues with your unit's BIOS chip.

Also, its unofficial yet, but a possible cure for many of dv2xxx's issues is to update your BIOS.

Drivers for:

dv 20xx
dv 21xx
dv 22xx
dv 23xx
dv 24xx

If you don't know what model you have look here;
How do i find out my model name/number?

Hope that helps, if you have any questions feel free to post them here...

 

Thanks so much for the post and the great pics... you saved my laptop....

Kudos to HP for making a Laptop that can survive being dropped...and only have this ONE stupid component fail.

 

Great to hear. Its never fun to see or hear a delicate electronic device fall and hit the ground, good to see this has a happy ending.

 

My girlfriend presented me with her broken HP DV2000 last night. I could see that the LCD was working but the backlight was not. At first I thought it was the inverter but just to be sure I googled to see if this was a common problem . That's when I found your article.

The symptoms were as you described -- LCD works but no backlight. Also, the normally blue touchpad icon was illuminated with an orange LED (ostensibly because the laptop thinks the lid is closed and turns off the touchpad to save power).

Anyway, I tried your fix and it worked. I chose to disconnect the lid sensor (in case she wants to get it fully serviced later). I lifted the metal shield and used a tiny screwdriver to *carefully* push the plug away from the board-mounted jack. Eventually it popped out. If you go this route I'd be careful to work the plug out slowly and not apply too much force so you don't scratch the motherboard when the plug finally pops out.

Thanks for posting this.

 

FX - holy crap! - thanks for posting that...you just saved me a lot of money!!! - the pictures and instructions were perfect....wow

 

Hey guys,
i have a dv2000 as well and it seems like my backlight is gone out in this one...not sure. When i first boot it up, i can see the HP logo, and then it goes blank. Do you think the above fix will work on mine?
thanks!

 

Don't think so. See if it can boot from a CD like MemTest86+. Better yet, can you get into the BIOS? If both of those work I'd run the HD diagnostics in the BIOS. If neither works, things start getting expensive.

 

I can get into the BIOS, but i can barely see it. The screen is so dark. I tried hooking an external monitor up to it, but it wouldn't allow me to switch over to it. Any clues?

 

Ah. For the sake of being thorough you should probably disconnect the lid switch (it's liable to go bad eventually anyhow) but more likely the LCD inverter or CCFL backlight has gone bad. If there is no reddish tint to the screen I'd bet on the inverter. Replacing the inverter isn't too bad, replacing the CCFL involves soldering and is a much bigger pain to get to.

 

I just saw this topic today and I'm wondering if this is the same problem as I'm having? My dv2000t is almost 2 years old and has had a flickering LCD since last March. I've already sent it into HP once, had it fixed, but it's been flickering randomly for the last few weeks. By flickering, I mean that the entire screen goes blank (or EXTREMELY dark - I can make out outlines of certain things, like the HP logo) at random times. If I wiggle the cover back and forth I can get the screen to light up again, and most recently I discovered that lightly pushing on the inside cover just below the LCD can sometimes light the screen up.

Do you think that doing this would fix this problem for me? I'm having the most difficult time sending my laptop in to HP because of an extended warranty mixup, and if this could fix my problem permanently I'd be VERY grateful!

 

Better than 50/50 chance. Worth a shot.

 

Eleventeen--Funny--you and I have the exact same story. I have a dv2100us, and my backlight started failing at random intervals, resulting in flickering of the monitor. I sent it to HP for repair, they sent it back after replacing the inverter and it operated flawlessly for four months (about 30 days past the 90 day guarantee for the HP repair work) and then started flickering again.

I tried Brianstretch's solution yesterday (thanks for the nice instructions, by the way, Brianstretch), but the problem was not solved. I'm thinking I need to replace the inverter again.

Does anyone have instructions for replacing the inverter on a dv2000 or simply instructions for opening up the LCD panel?

 

The service guide documents how to remove the screen. After that, there are screws hidden behind the rubber bumpers on the bezel. Remove those, pry apart the bezel, and you'll see the inverter just below the panel. Remove any mounting screws, unplug the old one, plug in the new one. That's typical for most screens. I'm a little worried that your CCFL may be going bad and that's what's taking out your inverter. Replacing the CCFL is tricky and requires a little soldering. For now I'd just try replacing the inverter unless you see the telltale reddish glow from the backlight.

 

Thanks,

I'll give replacing the inverter a go. It is getting progressively worse and will need to be replaced soon. By the way, I am seeing no reddish glow from the backlight. When the backlight is on, the screen looks perfect.

 

FunnyX I freaking love you.

Found this page after spending many hours googling ways to disable that switch, visiting around 10 computer shops who wanted nothing to do with it and getting quoted $150 by hp just to look at it.

Followed your steps and had it running after about an hour.

Tip to anyone doing it, step 3 b is a lot easier with a pair of needle nose pliers or probably even some narrow tweezers.

However, I'm finding it almost impossible to get the media ribbon cable back in, any tips? It's not that important seeing as though I never used it anyway, but I did admire the shiny blue lights.

Thanks again funnyX

Regards,
Stuart.

 

Hi all,

After some experimentation, I found that my flickering display problem (due to a flickering backlight) was caused by a loose display cable connection on the inverter. To fix, take the display apart simply by following the instructions on pages 5-33 through 5-37 of the HP DV 2000 Maintainance and Service Guide at http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/c00729555.pdf (this should not require opening the laptop in any other way). If you look at the how the display cable comes into the socket on the left side of the inverter, I think repeated opening and closing of the display is working that connection loose. This would explain why my monitor started flickering randomly 10 months after buying this laptop, and then again 3 months after I had HP replace the inverter. After reseating this connection, my display has been working flawlessy. I expect that in a couple of months it will work itself loose again and I will need to do this procedure all over again. Pretty easy to fix, though, so I'm not too pissed about this.

 

This reddish tint to the screen problem, could you explain it a bit further? I have a dv2000 dark/dim display problem too and i've unplugged the lid switch but that hasn't fixed it. I'm trying to figure out for sure whether it is the inverter board or the CCFL backlight. My screen is very dark but there's no reddish tint and i can see the screen very faintly under a flashlight. I also plugged the laptop into a seperate monitor via the VGA on the side and that works perfectly.

 

Sounds like a busted inverter to me. If the CCFL were going bad you'd probably still get some light out of it, usually of a reddish tint. Check the power cable to the inverter too. If it weren't such a pain I'd say swap in a fresh CCFL too but it's not worth it unless you have to.

 

Ok thx for the reply brian. I wanted to buy this inverter, that should work ok? I'm not sure how picky i should be or whether they're all the same, but it looks like the one i need.

 

It looks right to me.

 

Sisco: Did you ever figure out your problem? I have the same symptoms, and am trying to figure out if it is the inverter or the lid switch. My problem started when I dropped my laptop and cracked the screen.

 

thanx this solved the problem and got the screen back on but now the screen looks like a smudge water colour any ideas guys

 

FunnyX...thanks a lot. My girlfriend's son presented me with the same problem, no backlight or touchpad. 30 secs of googling and 20 minutes with some small screw drivers and I was a hero.

THX

 

I have a similar problem with an hp zv6000 (no backlight). When I giggle the lid switch it will flash and sometimes stay on for a short (less than a minute) and then go back off. Inverter or just a bad switch?

 

FUnnyX i really thank you for this wonderful post and you saved me loads of cash..

thanks alot i wish i could ove u something.. but unfortunately i aint got anything right now.. here is what i can say..

 

This is in response to those with the flickering issue/backlight.

I had the same problem for 2yrs. Multiple send into HP was no help.

So I've fixed it myself.

The problem I suspect is the connection between the inverter and the wirings (both the backlight cable & the power switch cable).
It may come loosen over time of closing the lid.

Here is my fix.

1. Brought a new inverter off of eBay ($8-15bucks)
2. Loosen the hinge on both side of the laptop so there is less drag when closing the lid. Turn the Hinge slightly counterclockwise & test the friction.

3. Super Glue the connectors on both side of the inverter where the cables meet.
power cable inverter backlight cable
=======> |____| <=========


Super glue number 3 & 4.


Why SuperGlue? Because I've try regular school Glue-stick. the connection will come lose after awhile.

Here is the entire manual copy of the HPDV2000. DL it while it is still available.
http://baby-expose.com/hp/dl/

 

I have the exact same issue as you OSO.

When I start my PC I see a faint HP logo and my touchpad is lit blue NOT orange. But to eliminate that it was a switch issue I removed the lid switch PIN and the LCD still did not light up so no surprise there.

I had ordered an LCD inverter but when it arrived I plugged it in and it also didn't work and unfortunately the damn flimsy thing split in half.

Now I think its a bulb, but I don't have any pink hue that indicates the bulb has gone bad. The image on the screen is very dim and when I connected an external display I was able to use my laptop.

What should my next step be...

 

Thank you very very VERY much for this guide!! It is just PERFECT!!

I was about to get it to HP for repair and it would cost me a lot!! I've had my pc for more than 3 years so I would have to pay for everything and it would probably taker more than a week to fix it since they always take much time..

I followed this guide and I fixed it in about 15 minutes!!

May I ask what I can/can't do now? I mean am I able to put it in sleep mode etc.? I don't want to try something that will mess it up again!

Thanks once again!!

 

Sleep mode still works, you just can't trigger it automatically by closing the lid.

 

Thanks, FunnyX! This worked like a charm!

Actually, it worked better than a charm...because, you know...it worked. And charms generally don't really do much. You know, because magic isn't real and all that.

In any case, great post, and a perfect solution.

 

My friend was having a problem with her hp dv2000. The backlight would go out after booting up. If I press fn+f5 (to hibernate) then wake it back up, the backlight works again for a short period (usually less than a minute).

I tried the fix but when I opened up the machine I noticed that there is nothing plugged into the lid1 slot (where the lid switch connector is supposed to be).

Any recommendations?

 

Hello,

I am facing the same display problem(very dim display in the laptop LCD but could see clearly with an external Monitor).I have contacted local HP service center in Kolkata over phone.They are saying it seems that its a problem with the LCD and it will cost around INR15,000. Could you please advice?

 

Hi, I encountered a similar problem on a Presario V2000 model. the switch always act like I closed the lid and shut down the display while I'm actually working on it. So now I barely can use the display. But the output video is ok. If I borrow a LCD and plug in, I can use it.
I also asked here, Re: How to bypass or replace display standby switch? - HP Support Forum
and there are pictures of this switch, want to know if you have any suggestions to fix this problem. like bypass, short circuit it?

Thanks in advance

 

Thanks. That was it. Saved the customer a bundle.

 

HELLO,
i get lost when you say cut the metal, then what nesxt.
trackstar123

 

hello,
i get lost on wich wire to cut and

 

Hi FunnyX

Thanks for the excellent advice, you saved me wasting money buying unneccessary parts to fix this problem

 

hello everybody
my hp Pavilion 2910us seems to have the same problem, or maybe just similar.
the situation looks like this:
when i try to start the system the back light of the lcd doesn't light up, i can see the desktop but it's dark as hell ;]
however i don't think that the lid switch is responsible as it seem to work correctly ( when i close the lid the system is going into sleeping mode, and when I open the lid all multimedia keys and touch pad are functional) so could it be the inverter that is messing with my system ?
o maybe it's something else ?
any ideas ?

 

Hi krishafi, it could be the backlight inverter, it's a ~$5 part.

You can try pressing the lid button rapidly with the system in the BIOS setup (so that it doesn't go into sleep/hibernation) and see if you get any flickers.

 

Many thanks to FunnyX, for such a clear, detailed, well illustrated, and useful post. As well as to those that have posted about their experience using it, which were also helpful

I went through the procedure and, fortunately, the lid switch was my problem. I was quite worried about what to do with our HP DV2000, which my daughter had let fall from the seat of a chair - it only hit on the right side of the bottom, because she put her foot below the other side before it hit, but the screen stopped working. The touchpad did work when I tested with an external monitor.

Had it checked by a technician who diagnosed that it could be the inverter or the CCFL lamp, but did not go any further. He did not mention the lid switch.

Then found out it could also be the lid switch - by searching in Google for the blank screen problem - also in notebookreview. A friend that knows a lot more about these things than I do, also mentioned the switch as possible fault, and also mentioned that by putting a flashlight very close to the screen I would be able to see a part of the image, if the screen was still good - which turned to be the case. The use of an external monitor confirmed this.

A new search for "hp dv2000 lid switch location" brought me to this thread, which was the first one it showed.
The indications on releasing the power pannel, and unplugging its two connectors were particularly helpful. As well as those on assembling things back - the plastic post on the right side of the power pannel, in which the screw goes in, was a little tricky to put back in place, but eventually it went in. Indications on putting back the keyboard were also very useful.

Did things very carefully, because I am not familiar with laptop repair. Even so, one of the little pins on the retainer of the media touchpad cable broke, or it may have been already broken since the laptop had been repaired by HP in 2009, because of the problems caused by overheating of Nvidia video cards, but that is another story. I call it a retainer, not a connector, because in my case it was not attached to the media ribbon cable, it was just a miniature plastic tab with two pins along its sides (one of which was broken), loose - on its own. To connect it again, I introduced the cable first, and then the retainer, below the cable, to keep it in place. Fortunately, it worked.

A tip about keeping the metal plate pulled back, so that one can work on detaching the lid switch connector - which is just to the right of the media touchpad ribbon cable (took me a while to find it, because it is below the metal plate) - I cut a 1 cm thick (slightly over 3/8") round slice from a wine bottle cork, split it in half, and placed the two pieces between the edge of the metal plate and the plastic base that supports it, to both sides of the lid switch connector. I could then work out the connector, very gently, using a very small precision screwdriver - those that you use on eyeglasses, prying on one side, then on the other. Any soft but firm material, like cork, would also do the job.

Many thanks to FunnyX, once again.

NOTE (Oct. 8, 2014): The retainer that holds the media touchpad ribbon cable in place is supposed to be so. These are zero insertion force (ZIF) connectors, from what I just saw in the Maintenance and Service Guide (HP) for the DV2000. The keyboard cable also has one of them. By the way, the procedure described in the same guide to get to the lid switch, to replace it, seems to be a lot of work.