How To: Remove a dv60xx's Top Casing.

How To: Remove a dv60xx's Top Casing.




Step 1; Removing Bottom Case Screws.

a) Start by removing all external accessories. (i.e. AC Adapter, Battery, USB devices, etc...

b) I have made a screw map to help you know where all the screws you need to take out are... Use some Post it's to organize them into the groups shown on the screw map. Remove all the screws shown on the screw map... Start with the A group and work your way down the types.

c) In order to get to the D screws you must have removed all the A's then pull out the DVDRW drive.

d) Now if you have removed all the screws listed on the map, there are 2 "screws" remaining to take out. To take them out you will require a pair of plier. They can be hard to get out, but you shouldn't have to turn them too much. These screws are located in the just below the ram. There will be 2 studs, you need to remove the 2 on the left.. There are 2 that have an octagon shape and 2 that have a circle shape, remove the octagon studs.



Step 2; Removing Top Case.

a) Now that you have removed all the screws from the bottom case you can not pull up the media panel.

b) Using a dull durable piece of plastic(i.e. a pick, or Listerine strips container). pull up the left side of the media panel, just above where you see the gap in the casing.



c) Then you have that up disconnect all the cables and ribbons to the power button panel... Also disconnect the middle media panel ribbon. that should make the media/power panel removable.



d) Now flip the keyboard face down on top of the touchpad. You can see a running from the back of the keyboard to the computer. Pull the tabs on sides of the fixture. It should click upward and free the keyboard ribbon. Remove the keyboard.



e) Free up any other cables that stretch over the top casing.

f) Once all the cables are free from the top of the top case, start unscrewing the top case. Start at a corner unscrew the first screw you see there, then proceed to pull up the side of the top case, one by one find the screws holding it down. The top case has very few screws holding it down, so this shouldn't take very long.

g) Last but not least before completely removing the top case disconnect the touchpad ribbon. Then pull off the top case.


Hope this helps...

 

Thanks soo much, rep point added!!!

 

Not a problem...

Sometimes the tech forgets to plug the mouse, keyboard, LCD, etc... so the EU's have to send it back and wait longer... We're all human, we forget stuff sometimes...

So if your notebook went to service and came back and the mouse/keyboard/LCD/etc. doesn't work.... Now you can quickly check the connection instead of sending it back and waiting longer to get it back.

 

My GOD! You know how to use a camera properly and/or didn't apply a 5 pixel Gaussian blur to your pictures!

 

Nah, I wasn't making a anime themed guide... but theres always next time

 

Nice pics.

Is this not covered covered properly at:

http://h20181.www2.hp.com/plmcontent/NACSC/SML/


under FRU Remove/Replace?

Joe

 

Most likely... the issue with that is they tell you how to dismantle it... but with those guides they do not tell you what screws go where... and that can be volatile to the over all well being of the computer... if your not careful you can put a screw straight up through the keyboard or case short your logic and cause serious damage to either, vital user data or CMOS database corruption...

 

FunnyX, this was a tremendous help. I am defnitely NOT a computer guy but your descriptons and PHOTOS (thank you) made this so easy. THANKS! ... A couple of points/comments, however:

1) You completely lost me on your steps 2f and 2g, but by that time I could pretty much see what needed to be done and I went off on my own path ... it works so I'm a happy camper. I did not need to remove the top case to perform this repair.
2) The replacement ribbon that I got off of eBay works, but the connection at the other end was not supported by a piece of firm plastic that makes it rigid enough to push into the connection, plus that lack of material made the connection a little loose. (If you are inexperienced, you'll know what I mean once you pull the old one out.) I just cut a tiny piece of electrical tape to snug that end up and it made it a little more rigid to push in and hold in the fitting
3) I had the elecrical tape out so I did a little of my own engineering. I figured that the tape might protect the ribbon from heat and keyboard stresses so I sandwiched both ribbons with the (white) tape ... I have no idea if I'm hallucinating here but I figured the white tape might reflect heat better ... what the heck, I had five colors of tape and the white roll was the biggest!

Bottom line, so far so good. Who knows how long it will last but it's better than paying HP more money to fix a faulty product (DV6000) for the SECOND TIME IN 16 MONTHS! (The first repair was under warranty ... a bad screen.) I bought two wires so if I have to do it again in another year or so, I suppose I can deal with that.

Thanks again for the tips and the pics ... you are awesome.

 

I send my DV6116us in last week and they wanted $321 to replace the power board also, and they been giving me a run around, so I told them just send it back to me so I can do it myself instead of been charge $321 for a faulty board in the first place - alot of people have this issues and HP don't give a rat about it. I will never buy another HP again - very unsupported from above and the lower guy........

 

Acer is easy, HP is puuh..

 

Does anyone know where the lid switch is located, the switch that triggers and detects when a laptop lid is closed/open? I want to rule that out as one of my problems.

I'm having display problems and it is really bugging me. The backlight seems to turn off at certain situations. Usually when my computer goes to sleep and the display turns off, my computer screen would not back wake up from it, but you would see that dim LCD screen image.

Weird thing is that MOST of the time if you were to go to the switch user windows screen, the backlight would turn back on again, but if you were to log back on to a user, it would subsequently turn off.

MOST of the time the boot up screen with the BIOS appears fine.

I'm having limited success restarting the computer, or hibernating, it use to work better but now it seems like actually turning the computer off, and then turning the computer back on again works better in getting that backlight on than just restarting.

Also, everything works fine with an external monitor. Strange thing is switching the displays would MOST of the time fix my problem. Although so far with a couple of trials changing the resolution (and then selecting apply) on the dim laptop screen from the external screen seems to trigger it to work 100% of the time.

Also, the backlight never flickers, so I am confused as to whether it is a hardware issue or not. It seems to be so consistently inconsistent.

Please help me! Thanks!

 

in the image under the step 2 c) step in the first post, does anyone know what cable that is connected in the board at the top right to cn2? mine has several wires disconnected from it and I'm currently trying to figure out why my laptop won't power on..