Hp screen white with black skid marks

I was browsing the web and playing a vid in hulu when all of the sudden the screen went white with black skid marks running across at a rapid rate. After about 5 sec my laptop shutoff on it's own. I turned it on and all the lights and HD spin went on but the screen wouldn't display picture

after 5 minutes I turned on again. The screen showed the usual bios image but went white and shutoff. After 30min the laptop lit up and shutdown and refuses to start up without AC connected even tho bat is fully charged. This laptops a piece of ****.. My optical drive and sound card stopped working prior to the screen.

The screen thing is a mystery to me though. Can someone tell me what is going on? This is a 2 yr old dv6. I'm going to call It a night an see if I can do anything about it 2moro.

 

What graphics card do you have? Maybe you had one of those graphic cards that have major problems.

 

It has a Nvidia 7150 integrated graphics card. Never had any problems with the display up till now

Currently, my laptop boots up with the lights for 2 seconds (no pic on display) and then repeats till I pop out the battery. It's an endless reboot cycle.

 

Does it still work plugged in?

 

Then it's dead. Either send the board for reflow, ghetto reflow it yourself (i can help you with that), buy a new motherboard, or buy a new laptop. The ghetto fix is always worth trying if you have a few hours to spare.

 

Ghetto reflow?

I'll try it if I have the equipment to do it but I'm not really sure if I'll be able to keep track of all the screws if I disassembled the laptop.

Either way I'm interested in hearing more about the ghetto method.

 

You can find the service manual on HP's website, it'll keep track of the screws for you.

The ghetto method simply involves a temperature controlled oven, or just a regular oven and a IR thermometer or a multimeter with a high temperature probe. I have a temperature controlled oven but its thermostat got damaged over time (mom uses it in the winter to dry clothes in the kitchen, leaving the oven door open, and because of the thermostat the oven always turns the gas to maximum whenever she does that, and the bimetallic strip got decalibrated because of too much heat).

Therefore i use the temperature probe of my DT9208A multimeter. I paid $12 for the meter and the probe is good for up to 400C.

So here's how it goes. Take apart the whole laptop, remove everything from the motherboard including CPU and CMOS battery. Cover everything except GPU and northbridge in aluminum foil, then make 4 foil balls of equal size, and make sure the board will sit on them without moving around or falling. Place foil balls in cooking tray, sit motherboard on top of them.

Preheat oven to 210 degrees C. Put tray in. Close door. Wait 7 minutes. Monitor temperature during this time (don't worry, if you get one of those multimeters, the probe won't break even though it doesn't look like much, you can keep it inside the oven during the whole 7 minutes) Open door, then carefully slide the tray halfway out, any bump to the board will send chips flying. Let it cool down for at least 30 minutes, then take board out, reassemble, and you should get your display back.

To make sure that it stays fixed, i suggest you to throw away that thermal pad and machine (or handcraft) an aluminum shim to fit between GPU and heatsink. It should be just tall enough to fill the gap completely, without bending the board when the cooler is fitted. Apply good quality thermal compound to both sides of the shim, then put everything back together. Done this way, it should be good for at least an year. Temperature difference between the stock thermal pad and the aluminum shim is 10-15C in my experience, which is quite a bit. If you just put the pad back it'll break again in 3-5 months.

 

I've taken my laptop apart now. During the process, I broke a single black cable running from what I believe is the power button to the screen. It connects with a blue, yellow, and a red cable into one port. It's very small and too close to the end for me to know how to fix.

Anyways, I'll deal with that later. The only other problem is that I can't seem to locate the northbridge. Could you tell me what it's labeled with?

Also, there's a lot of plastic covering parts of the MB. Should I remove all of them (Black and see through) and then put them back on after wards?

 

You can leave the black plastic foil on the motherboard, it won't melt. The northbridge is the second largest chip on the board. If you don't have dedicated graphics, the northbridge and GPU will be in one chip, and you will have only one large chip. You can recognize a board with integrated graphics by a large blank spot on the left side, where the heatsink and fan are. There will be blank spots for a GPU and memory chips there. If that's the case, the only large chip on the board will be the northbridge/GPU combo.

If you look closely it says nVidia on it. As for that cable, don't worry. By your description it sounds like either the integrated microphones or the webcam. Replacement cables are available, but what sucks is that you'll have to remove the display bezel and LCD to replace the whole cable... In my experience the display bezel will NEVER look like new again no matter how carefully you remove it. But that's for later, first get it running.

 

wow, this is an amazing thread! A ghetto reflow method to fix "skid marks" on a laptop display.