hp pavilion dv2020us(dv2000) has blank screen (black) due to defective lid switch

I've had this problem with hp pavilion dv2020us entertainment (hp pavilion dv2000): the screen was blank all the time (ie. no backlight) and the mouse(touchpad) was disabled. Sympoms are just like when the lid switch was closed (ie. when the display lid is closed the touchpad gets disabled). The lid switch is inside the laptop on the right; but it can only be reached if the laptop is disassembled. It took me 7 hours to fix it and I did that by unplugging the cable of that switch such that the switch is now seen as always open(ie. make the switch stay open by unplugging it's cable from the board); this plug is located near and under the F8 key; you will have to remove two layers: the keyboard and another aluminium layer which is part of the outter cover just below the keyboard where you keep your hands when typing(yeah that cover).

I advise against disassembling the laptop; you'd be better taking it to service! It seemed unavoidable that i could open it without breaking small plastic things that are part of the covers. Besides there are two screws just on top of the dvd-rw while it is open that keep the top cover in place and you cannot pull the dvd-rw out: i had to eject the dvd-rw by a needle then crack('cause i couldn't pull it out) the part of the dvd-rw which has the eject button such that i could insert a screw driver from below between the crack and unscrewn those two screws while the dvd-rw device was almost closed(injected). Also there's a screw right beneath the keyboard that keeps the cover in place; small plastic things that keep covers in place are most likely to crack(break) while using the screwdriver ...

Of course now that the lid switch is always open(not connected) the display is always on while the computer is on(unless the computer is in standby)

The switch is such that if you pressure the bottom part, on the right side of the display holder- there are two display holders - dno the word for them) then the plastic switch(which is inside again) gets pushed to a metal actuator and the switch button may get inside the switch such that it will break or get stuck so the switch is always on(meaning the display lid is closed and thus the display is off - no power/backlight)

However if you get a flashlight and point it to the screen you can see dim colours and the shapes of the windows and text (suppose you have Windows on it) [thus the computer still works, forgot to mention that - it was obv.). The flashlight should work on all displays that are off due to a lid switch or defective backlight. Try running explorer with Winkey+E and a white window should appear and you should see it's shape even on the light of the room if you get closer(and from some point of views).

My guess, transportation can get that lid switch damaged(apparently this was the cause in my case)... and the screen will always be off; keyboard is still usable; some may try Fn+F4 which switches between laptop's display and CRT or both of them at the same time(ie. of course you could plug an external monitor on the VGA D-sub on the left side (three rows of fem.dots)

More about the lid switch? well you'll have to remove the display cover and the two other covers under this (the second one is the speaker cover) also the keyboard and ... the pad cover can only be moved a little to the right to be able to unplug the switch from the motherboard(near F8 key - or around there); the switch is near and under the right part that holds the display connected to the laptop; and it has two screws but you cannot manage to unscrew them unless you remove the hard metal parts that really keep the monitor attached to the laptop(which I didn't do).
The keyboard is kind of tricky to put back because it has to be under 4 metal protuberations (2 on the left and 2 on the right) that are there for some purpose other than making your life a result of your past.
Again, please do think 3 times before disassembling the laptop (in general, any laptop) because you may regret it when you see how it looks on the edges afterwards (because of the screwdriver insertions in attempts to unlock the small plastic things that keep the covers in place - yes the plastic things that eventually, or at least 20% of them, get cracked/broken).

Hope this helps in any way.

ps: this laptop was not mine.

 

can you post some pic on how you unpluged the cable of the switch?? i have the same problem ... when i plug it with ext monitor it loading fine, but if it starts with the laptop LCD there is very dim text also the keyboard work fine... I disassambled the laptop but still couldnt find the connector. (also try all other method but now use)
btw, i have hp pavilion dv1100 CTO, hope you get some update soon cause waiting for hp service may just take forever ...
thx emacs

 

What is the action that triggers this issue? Why would the lid need to be closed when the computer is in a 'On' state?

 

ei, you save me EMACS, thank's a lot! This tip is working confirmed! On HP Pavilion dv2000,
The lid connectior is under F7 and F8 button on keyboard, I removed only keboard, without removing anything else, you can reach it without removing aluminium layer, only need to remove keyboard.... and indentify lid connector (it is two wires i think the color was red and black )
Thank's again!

 

Ok, I'm doing this too cause by bro in law's HP Pavillion 2000 doesn't respond when I press the power button. No BIOS, no LCD backlight, just the power button lights up blue. Another forum I found posted these links to the repair manual. 1, 2. Page 182 of the first one has it.

Firstly, I don't think you need to disassemble the whole machine, just remove the battery, the three screws behind it, then you can slide out the keyboard.

Secondly, if you don't remove the aluminium plate, then there is a ribbon-style cable going into the motherboard. This is not the lid-closing power cable. That is for the volume and DVD buttons above the keyboard. Don't remove that. The actual cable you want is to the right of that (1cm) and is under the aluminium plate. It's hard to reach.

Lastly, after I done all this the machine still didn't start. I charged it overnight and it came to life the next day. But the hard drive was fried. So I gotta buy a new hard drive for the machine. Either way, many thanks to "emacs", your post in combi with the manual helped me fix the machine.

I hope this info helps someone.

 

Aloha, someone brought me a laptop to fix, it had been dropped (in the case), and the screen no longer worked. I'd been searching online looking for replacement parts when I found this thread. I followed the instructions and it worked PERFECTLY! Thank you very much. Now that you have done all the hard work, my little contribution will be an image of the disconnected cable, hopefully it makes it through. Mahalo!

It was a little difficult getting the plug unplugged without damaging it (in case it didn't work), I used a micro screwdriver set and mini needle nose, I mostly used the smallest screwdriver to insert into the plug to pry it back. It worked pretty well, only slightly damaging the plug, it could still be plugged in if needed. One more note, this is on a DV2125us laptop.

http://airin.us/up.php?id=13

 

I'm having the same problem, but it is random. Sometimes the machine will boot fine and other times I get a black screen. I haven't tried to look at it with a flashlight to see if there is anything on the screen. Can this switch be failing or do they just go bad all at once, eg. either it works or it doesn't?

 

Aloha, the laptop I worked on also has this problem, about 50% of the time when you turn it on the screen stays black, no booting (hard drive light isn't active). You have to turn it off and turn it back on and then it usually works fine. If you are running on Battery power and turn it on, it seems like 100% of the time the screen stays black with no booting.

Before I removed that cable, it will still booting about 50% of the time but the screen was so dark nobody noticed. Now at least it does boot about 50% of the time, as long as you start from AC power (once it is running, you can unplug it and run on battery power, but it won't successfully boot from cold from battery power). Very interesting.

 

yeah ur gonna have to get that replaced or fix it yourself

 

v3loc1ty2.0, exactly what needs fixing? The post from airin96771 said that unplugging the lid switch did not cure this, only made it more tolerable. Thanks, Keith

 

i just repaired a dv2000 using the instructions here and it worked great! thank you to those who posted great information on how to resolve this problem. the laptop i worked on was dropped causing the screen to go extremely dark and disabling the mouse (both features of the lid being closed). I removed the battery and the 3 screws as stated, then slid the keyboard out and there it was! Just be sure you get the right plug - the one that is 75% covered by the aluminum cover. Took me 10 mins to fix!

 

Hello kge420!
I really need your help, i am have the same problem with my laptop notebook tx1000, almost same as dv2000.
sometimes it turn on very fine and boot properly, but sometime it shows blank screen no boot no display.
can you please help me how you solve this problem????

 

Azee, if you have the same problem as I had, your mainboard needs replacing. This model of laptop has an inherent design flaw.With that knowledge I wrote HP a detailed letter and let them know I am a loyal customer (I am) and how the design of a product should not go out of warranty. They fixed my Laptop quickly and for free, It was approx. 18 months old at the time. Good Luck, Keith

 

Keith - Would like to get a hold of that letter. Anyone to get that kind of response from HP has to have some skillz. What address did you send it to? My dv2000 is 18 months old and I'm sure the mainboard is shot. These laptops run way too hot - I'm wouldn't be surprised if some caught on fire. Any help you can provide is appreciated. -Craig

 

I too am having this problem, is it possible you can send me the letter and who you sent it to so I have an idea of what to try tell them. Thanks.

 

Is there a way to figure out whether the lid switch is the problem before I take apart the machine (I'm very nervous about doing it)?

I dropped my dv2020 and cracked the screen. The first two replacement screens I installed did not work (black screen, no backlight). The third screen works for about 3 seconds when I power up the machine, but then goes black. If I power down and then start up again, I get another 3 seconds before it goes black. I plugged in an external monitor to confirm that the laptop is working (it is). The guy who sold me the screen says it is either the inverter or the lid switch.

Does anyone have a view as to which is faulty? How can I test this before I buy a new inverter or take apart the machine to work on the lid switch?

Thanks.

 

I'd disable the lid switch on general principle. It sure sounds like a lid switch problem, and if it isn't I don't know what else to try.

 

Hey KGE

I would like to get that letter from you if you don't mind since I got the same issue with my laptop.

Thank you in advance

 

cyboy 2001; this problem has now been acknowledged by HP as a faulty chipset and they are doing repairs under an extended warranty. I have had my mainboard replaced twice. Both times after my coverage had expired and both times for no cost to me. HP was very accommodating with this issue and I am in the process of sending my son's dv6000 in for the same repair. The first repair seemed to be a replacement of the faulty part with another faulty part. This second repair seems to be a true fix. I have no more heat related issues with the unit. Here is a link to HP concerning the extended warranty and the models covered. Good luck, Keith http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/...2189&lang=en&docname=c01300427#c01300427_dv20

 

Hello guys.
I`ve just been asked to have a look at one of these HP Pavilion dv2000`s for someone but as well as the actual screen been blank on this one there`s also no display when using an external monitor.Shinning the torch on the laptop screen shows absolutely nothing at all.
I still went ahead and tried the lid switch fix mentioned but needless to say i had no luck whatsoever so i`ve just reconnected it for the moment.I only had to remove the keyboard to get to it thankfully...just.
I dont actually know yet how long the owner has had the machine or wether it`s still under any kind of warranty but seeing as we`re are in the UK and the serial number of this machine(RN079EA) is not on the list mentioned over on HP`s site i dont think that`s going to be much help.

Any ideas anyone.
Thanks for reading either way.

EDIT:Just found out it it was bought by the owner some 2 years ago,here in the UK.

 

Thank you so much emacs for identifying this issue and creating the post. Thanks also to stevenmc and airin96771 for posting the repair manual and helpful photo.

To those having the same 2 symptoms I list below and asking "should I try this fix?" YES - Give it a shot - it's easier and cheaper than replacing the whole LCD assembly. But if you only have 1 symptom and not both, then it's probably NOT the lid switch - maybe the LCD needs replacing. I’ve purchased HP laptop parts from myworld.ebay. com/laptop_specialist/ in the past – excellent customer service.

My friend had a Pavilion dv2125nr with the following symptoms:
1) LCD remains blank when system is on, although external monitor worked intermittently. It is very difficult to see, but there is a faint image on the LCD.
2) Touchpad is not working - the dv2125 has a red/orange LED next to the touchpad which indicates it is disabled. If working correctly, the LED would be blue.

After finding this wonderful thread, I followed the HP repair manual very carefully. See stevenmc's post above to download it. I was unable to unplug the lid switch with only the keyboard removed. I tried very hard and it just wouldn't budge due to the aluminum layer partially covering the lid switch. If you find yourself stuck in a similar place, read on...

I was able to access it best by the following (refer to manual linked above):
1) 5.3 remove battery
2) 5.4 remove hard drive
3) 5.8 mini card (I skipped this - only needed if you intend to remove LCD)
4) 5.9 remove optical drive
5) 5.10 remove keyboard
6) 5.11 remove switch cover (thin plastic part between keyboard and LCD)
You do NOT need to do 5.12 or 5.13 (the display assembly or top cover) unless you intend to remove LCD...

Now you are in a position to partially move the aluminum layer around the lid switch. Time to improvise - put aside the repair manual. Under the plastic switch cover you just removed (in 5.11) are a few screws that hold down the aluminum layer. They're very obvious. Just unscrew the top several screws that hold it down, so you can lift up the aluminum layer enough to reach the lid switch. Unplug it!

Now reassemble the laptop in reverse order.

I reassembled, turned on the laptop, and the LCD & touchpad worked! But I immediately received the dreaded "no operating system found" message, which often indicates a damaged or missing hard drive (see stevenmc's post above). However, I removed the hard drive, reinserted it, and prayed to God in the name of Jesus-- and the laptop booted great. It's been just fine ever since.

I mentioned this last point because:
1) Some of you may need to remove it / reinsert it -- don't just assume the hard drive is fried if you receive that error message
2) God is very real and very awesome.

I humbly have 2 suggestions if any of you haven't previously worked on laptops :
1) Try to AVOID working on your laptop over carpet, or on a surface that could cause static discharge. Dry (non-humid) weather in the winter makes you a higher risk. Touch something metal / grounded before working on the laptop to discharge any static charge.
2) I recommend that you have a piece of paper, pencil, & scotch tape handy. Sketch the underside and topside of the laptop, then as you remove each screw TAPE IT to the spot on the sketch you removed it from. Even the best of us can be left with a few "extra" screws if we don't do something like this.

my Pavilion dv2100-series lid switch photos:
s3.amazonaws. com/sreference/dv2125laptop/dv2125.jpg
s3.amazonaws. com/sreference/dv2125laptop/dv2125-lid-switch.jpg
remove the spaces above to make the links active.

Hope that helps,
Scott

 

That was a awsome walkthrough, heres what i found on mine though...after following the instructions above the computer still couldn't find the harddrive...the screen comes on now but couldn't find the OS...so I removed the harddrive and put it back in, Still nothing boots...so then i went into my bios and my CD drive was set to boot first...All i did then was changed the boot order to Allow the harddrive to boot first and Bingo it worked like a charm....**SO ALSO CHECK YOUR BOOT ORDER IF THE OS DOESN'T LOAD.

 

similar problems but not only lol
I broke my LCD, I dropped the laptop as my daughter screamed "I broke my finger!!!", well, nothing was wrong with her but 3/4 of the screen was dead. The laptop was still working and fully operational (ok, not fully lol) and I kept using it until I had my new LCD that I replaced myself (just physically removed the old one and placed the new one). It was working properly for some time. Then, I don't remember what happened first - did it start not starting properly after "sleeping" or I poured some tee on the keyboard... but I think the displaying problem came out first. So, the laptop is starting normally, but the screen is not powered at all (well sometimes it does, but sometimes doesn't work for me). I removed the plastic frame, left it open, I thought some moisture might have caused the power cable/lid to malfunction. Now I'm reading here (probably I've should done this first lol) and I'm not sure how to proceed. Help, anyone, help... Promise will be more careful lol...

 

I have a HP pavilion dv9000 (dv9627 actually) and I was having the BLACK SCREEN problem (no display and no backlight) and after many ideas i found online i checked the wires for the DISPLAY PANEL , i took off that 'protection tape' and found that 2 wires were completely SNAPPED and when i pulled on another one it snapped in half also. I twisted those back to eachother and taped it up and it WORKED!!!! I am typing this on that same laptop.

symptoms:
-laptop would run and startup and an EXTERNAL DISPLAY would function perfectly
-built in screen would not light up or display ANYTHING.

also i called HP and they said id have to send it in and pay 300-400$ because it was not under the DV6000 motherboard recall list (the fact that the external display was working and that it wasnt recalled made me think that motherboard might not be the problem anyways)

 

ok .. i'm a newbie ... and want to thank KGE420 from post # 19 for providing the best solution for my situation.

HP will fix my laptop DV2416 (dv2000) for FREE even though warranty expired.

If you have a blank screen ... and attaching an external monitor is also blank .. then go to ... http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/d...c01300427_dv20 to see if your laptop is covered for the "HP Limited Warranty Service Enhancement (Product Numbers Included)". If your laptop's product number is listed, then you will get a free fix.

I called the service number listed on the site ... and the customer service rep first told me that my laptop is out of warranty. You then have to tell him that the laptop is covered under the HP Limited Warranty Service Enhancement .. and you meet the qualifying conditions (eg: blank screen in both the laptop screen AND external monitor).

HP will then arrange to send you a box to sent your laptop for repair .. you then send laptop via fedex .. and 2 weeks later your laptop should be returned. I made the arrangements yesterday.. and it took only 20 minutes (start to finish) for the arrangements.

so .. thank you kge420 from post #19


.. note .. if your external monitor works.. then proceed with the other solution

 

I'm almost sure having the same problem. I think it's not the lid stitch as my touch panel is working (last option is to open it and try that too). I even replaced the inverter. It worked for 2 days and it' s black again. Which cables exactly are you talking about?

 

OK..Before I gut my laptop(a nearly 3-year-old DV2000 that has had NO problems to date), I was wondering if anyone who has experienced the lid switch issue with the dim screen has NOT had an issue with the touch pad. My screen flicks between working(not very often) and not working(very often over the last three weeks). There's also a very dim image on the laptop screen when a monitor is not hooked up. A monitor hooked to the laptop works fine with no problems. So I'm thinking this might not be the lid switch and might be the inverter or tube.

I've like this laptop and haven't had nearly the problems everyone else is talking about. But this is probably the last thing to push me into buying a new one. The laptop is not worth an upgrade and the keys are falling off, so it's probably better to get a new one for $750 than to spend $300 repairing this one...any advice would help.

 

Sounds like a lid switch problem to me. It's fairly easy to disconnect the lid switch yourself. If it were the inverter the screen would be dead, period, not occasionally lighting up. If it were the CCFL you'd usually see a pinkish glow rather than nothing, except for the Dell I had the misfortune of working on where a wire soldered to the bulb had broken off... anyhow, 99% probability you have a defective lid switch.

 

brianstretch,

Thanks for the prompt reply! I'm going to go for it then. I've seen a couple of schematics for the fix, and it doesn't seem that difficult. One guy said he did it in 45 minutes. The only thing that perplexed me was that I never had any problems with the mouse pad. I'll reply about my results...

 

OK...sorry to take so long to get back about the situation, but I've had a great deal of fear in the run up to taking this thing apart...enough that I never did...sure enough today, as I was prepping my tools, the screen abruptly blinked back on, only slightly dimmer than before...now playing the role of scientist, I did some experimenting. I unplugged it and let it run from the battery...lo and behold, the monitor seems bright again! So I check the cord and see my goddamn cat has done a number on it. The wire isn't severed, but the casing is definitely compromised. It still seems to charge the laptop, but whenever I plug it in, the screen seems dimmer. Does this change things you think? Should I go forward and disconnect the lid switch? I just have these nagging fears about totaling the computer and all its info without having a new one to replace it.

 

The notebook remembers different brightness settings for plugged in and unplugged. Try adjusting brightness with Fn-F7/F8?

I think that your mangled power cord is a separate issue. Your lid switch probably became unstuck. Worry about disconnecting it the next time it gets stuck?

 

Well, sure enough the screen when dark again. I got the gumption to disconnect the lid switch and apparently did it with success...but...the screen is still dark. I'm beginning to believe it's either the fluorescent tubes in the screen itself or the inverter some have talked about here.

I will say from my whole experience that it really pays to listen to people who know what they're doing and to take a look at the schematics through and through before haphazardly taking things apart. I was scared to do it, thanks to a number of posters here who said they got the blue screen of death and fried their hard drives. I'm not sure how they tackled the disconnect, but it must have been with reckless abandon. My instance went flawlessly and my laptop is none the worse for it. Now if only I could pinpoint the problem...

Any suggestions? My gut instinct at this point is to just by a new one. I've seen more powerful DV's on the market for $700, which is probably a better bargain than finding used pieces, upgrading my own and hoping nothing else happens. Any advice?

 

Best remaining bet is the LCD inverter, which is cheap and fairly easy to replace. If that doesn't work it's probably time to give up and sell it as broken on eBay. CCFL replacement is difficult, requires soldering, and is less likely. Given how cheap dv4z's are and that they use far superior ATI GPUs I think your gut instinct is a good one.

 

hey kge420

I have a HP Pavillion DV2000 I called HP and mine went out of warranty can you give me any ideas to get them to fix it for free

 

Alright...not much has changed since I last posted...still trying to save up money for a new lapper...

But recently, I've discovered a new phenomenon with my screen. If I switch between the monitor hook up and my laptop screen, eventually it will flicker back on. If I do this process(using ctl-alt-F1 and ctrl-alt-F3) repeatedly, I can usually get the monitor to stay on for a while. In fact, it will stay on until the computer goes in rest mode...then when you turn it back on, the screen goes dark(the kind of dark where you can still vaguely see images)

Does this change the diagnosis any or would you still stick with the inverter?

 

@stilvip: When I was having the problems with my DV2120 I gathered as many facts as possible prior to contacting HP. Age, symptoms, how often the problem occurs, cpu and gpu temps etc. I haven't kept up with HP and their warranty coverage time period. Check their site. I also know that they were being more than a bit coy about the problem and if it wasn't stated they played ignorant. My advice is to be knowledgeable, firm and a little humble. This problem is with the gpu de-laminating after an indeterminate number of heat cycles. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

@tdchi: If you get an image while using an external monitor then I would definitely replace the inverter. This is a very easy and inexpensive repair. I picked up a whole lid assembly (lid plastics, screen, cables) off of eBay for $40 for my son's DV6000. I did an autopsy on the old screen to have a look at the bulb. It is about the diameter of a piece of #8 spaghetti and equally as fragile. In my opinion not worth the risk to replace only that part.
If, on the other hand, you have no image then your troubles lie in the body of machine. This is where a thorough cost/value examination is required.
My advice to anyone wanting to learn to repair their machine is to read about it. It also doesn't hurt to buy a broken laptop of CraigsList for $25 to take apart and learn where parts are and what they do. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

Well...the inverter is replaced...and the problem persists...however, if I switch between screens...the external monitor and the laptop screen, I can eventually get the laptop screen to stay on for an extended period of time. Usually, it's until the power saver clicks on. If I start typing or move the cursor, the screen will come back for a few seconds, and then blink off again.

Any more suggestions?

 

An addendum to all of this....I just went away for the weekend and brought my laptop in hopes that the screen would flicker on...well...lo and behold, the thing lasted the whole weekend long...four days without an interruption. Then this morning, it flickered off again. I just don't get it.

 

I hope i'm not wasting my time posting here since this post is so old but i'm having a related issue with my client's (friend also) dv2000 (dv2416us) (GA536UA) laptop.
Which by the way is under the list for a free repair but unfortunately is out of it's extended warranty period.
My client's laptop is going to a black screen also at times he states intermittenly which makes be believe he might be having the same issue with the connector under the F8 button.
Not too savvey on removing the top cover to tackle this procedure since I work on desktops more often than laptops for this type of repair.
HP support are of no help to me since they just want my money instead of giving me some step by step instructions on how to troubleshoot the issue at home in my shop.
The dv2000 has all power to the components,hdd,dvd/rw drive keypad light on blue,all lights lit up on top of the keyboard & do not flicker or blink on & off.
The hdd light on front blinks three times then goes out.
Usb ports have power also.
I'm suspecting this to being the problem since he's always bringing the laptop to work & using it alot.
Opening & closing the lid alot.
One question I have to all the dvxxxx series laptops has me baffled though.
What do all you owners hear on boot up that give out normal beep codes when they boot up sucessfully?
This one only beeps two short beeps (very soft beeps) & not one long & two short beeps like alot out there are having these beeps & has a problem with the GPU overheating & coming unseated from the mobo gpu socket.
That is the only question I have to ask so I can resolve this issue.
Desktops specs says two beeps on bootup are normal but laptops may be differant.
This is stated on the HP support docs under beep codes desktops link.
Laptop codes for two short beeps on bootup for laptops are suppost to be for a bio's issue bad reflash which I did reflash it while it was booting normally to F39 (current) trying to resolve the wireless issue.
This one really has me baffled & don't want to go tearing into it for something rather simple.
I did remove the memory modules & installed just one & it started blinking making me think it might be a memory module bad.
He started out having a problem with his wireless not working at times but was having the issue with the black screen problem alone with the wireless issue as well.
The wirelsss light stays amber all the time.
To make a long story short.
What are these dvxxxx models suppost to beep normally on bootup?
Sorry for the long writeup but I am baffled on this one.
Thank's for any support you might add.
David

 

Good day,

I have a hp pavillion dv2000 laptop and it has blank screen (or no displayed) I found a forum and 1 suggested, First, removed the battery. Second, put in the PSU (Power Supply Unit) and charged the laptop for 4 mins. Third, removed the PSU and then long press the turn on button. Fourth,, plug back the PSU and then turn on the laptop. Honestly, it really work for me I was surprised and enjoyed using my laptop after using it I shut it off.. after a couple of hours when I want to used it again the same problem happened so i did again the procedure but this time it didnt work, I tried many times but no success.. Any help?

Thank you!

 

ashley10!
I feel for you on your issue with your laptop. Alot of HP DV series owners are having the same issues. I tried the same method that was discussed here & did it 4 times with no success. Contacted HP numorous times by phone & email to try to get their attention & they still wont do a repair on my clients for free They want me to send it in for repair. Bull!! Don't have that kind of money for them to rob me.
I've come to a conclusion the hdd might be my culprit. Tried accessing it with a usb device the other day & it would not power up.
Worked awhile back this way when I was having the problem though.
Guess it just pooped out on me.
You might want to checking the hdd a shot the same way.
I'm planning on getting a small hdd & try it.
HP says this one is a hardware issue since it beeps 2 short beeps on boot.
Don't believe this one is a overheating gpu issue.
Tried the external monitor method & didn't fire up the monitor if I used the right keys.
Hope you get your fixed then you can give us some idea's what fixed it.
Have great one!
David

 

i know this thread is old, but is still relevant.

i followed daysofnoah's instructions and it worked perfectly, however i have one problem. now that the lcd is on and the touchpad is active, the sound keeps muting and unmuting by itself. any ideas what the problem is? is the connector that i unplugged somehow also in control of the quick play buttons at the top? i am considering reconnecting the plug, but don't want to deal with the black screen issue again.

thoughts?