v2000z overheating

I have had this laptop a couple of years, and up until recently it has worked fine, except for some unusual noises(I'll elaborate further on)

I have even been able to get a little gaming in on it.

Until I played call of duty , and it apparently caused the laptop to overheat, and shut down, so I played it with a fan blowing on the laptop to keep it cool.

I have also had a strange "sizzling" sound that would come and go sporadically, until It ran hot, It never dawned on me what it could be, as everyone looked at me like I was crazy when I asked about, it, but I recently ran across an article on thermal grease, which has me thinking, could I have burnt it off, by playing this game?

It has been shutting down more , and more often ever since I played that Game, So I obviously did something to it, Which I should have realized, but it just didn't dawn on me, until it started to recur while not gaming.

So my question is, Can this be fixed for a reasonable price?

I was planing on giving it to my daughter, and possibly upgrading to a Mac for photochop, and such, but obviously I don't want to give her a dying laptop. I also don't want to put too much more into it, I have maxed out the ram at 2 gigs, But If I have to spend much more than $100, tops I might as well get her one on black friday, or possibly a netbook, she is 13, and only really needs it for word processing, and internet. If It cant be fixed I may just get her a cheap lapop, and milk this one until it dies before I upgrade myself.

I may still have a warranty As I bought the extended on under Office Depot, but it is at least 2 years old, and I cant remember how long the warranty lasted, I am gonna dig up the receipt , and look, but I figured I am on my own on this one. Any advice would be appreciate

 

if u suspect overheating pls confirm it by monitoring heat with some tools like hwmonitor or everest. pls post the max temperatures found here. also note the temperatures when the sizzling sound is produced

 

ok thanks, but the sizzling sound has stopped, that's why I thought it may have burnt off.

Ill download the programs

 

You can get the service guide from hp.com, take it apart, clean up the old thermal grease with Arcticlean and apply new Arctic Silver. Follow the instructions on arcticsilver.com. Clean the dust out of the heatsink while you're at it. Depending on what CPU you have you might want to upgrade that too, check eBay for Socket 754 Turions. I had a v2000z with a Sempron that I replaced with a Turion ML37.

 

I am not sure how to determine the min and max temps

but here isa "collection" of the results, (typically after a shutdown)
from hwmonitor

ACPI hardware monitor

Temperature sensor 0 96°C (204°F) [0xE6C] (THRM)

Dump hardware monitor



Hardware monitor
-----------------------------------------------------

AMD Turion 64 ML-30 hardware monitor

Temperature sensor 0 22°C (70°F) [0x6] (Core #0)

Dump hardware monitor



Hardware monitor
-----------------------------------------------------

FUJITSU MHT2040AT PL hardware monitor

Temperature sensor 0 50°C (121°F) [0x32] (HDD)

Dump hardware monitor
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
CPI hardware monitor

Temperature sensor 0 85°C (184°F) [0xDFE] (THRM)

Dump hardware monitor



Hardware monitor
-----------------------------------------------------

AMD Turion 64 ML-30 hardware monitor

Temperature sensor 0 22°C (70°F) [0x6] (Core #0)

Dump hardware monitor



Hardware monitor
-----------------------------------------------------

FUJITSU MHT2040AT PL hardware monitor

Temperature sensor 0 48°C (118°F) [0x30] (HDD)

Dump hardware monitor
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

ACPI hardware monitor

Temperature sensor 0 80°C (175°F) [0xDCC] (THRM)

Dump hardware monitor



Hardware monitor
-----------------------------------------------------

AMD Turion 64 ML-30 hardware monitor

Temperature sensor 0 22°C (70°F) [0x6] (Core #0)

Dump hardware monitor



Hardware monitor
-----------------------------------------------------

FUJITSU MHT2040AT PL hardware monitor

Temperature sensor 0 49°C (120°F) [0x31] (HDD)
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

And here is everest

EVEREST Home Edition (c) 2003-2005 Lavalys, Inc. ]------------------------------------------------------------

Version EVEREST v2.20.405
Homepage http://www.lavalys.com/
Report Type Quick Report
Computer PC121161970429 (Compaq laptop)
Generator Chris
Operating System Microsoft Windows XP Home Edition 5.1.2600 (WinXP Retail)
Date 2008-10-13
Time 22:16


--------[ Sensor ]------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Sensor Properties:
Sensor Type HDD

Temperatures:
CPU 86 °C (187 °F)
FUJITSU MHT2040AT PL 48 °C (118 °F)

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Version EVEREST v2.20.405
Homepage http://www.lavalys.com/
Report Type Quick Report
Computer PC121161970429 (Compaq laptop)
Generator Chris
Operating System Microsoft Windows XP Home Edition 5.1.2600 (WinXP Retail)
Date 2008-10-14
Time 02:27


--------[ Sensor ]------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Sensor Properties:
Sensor Type HDD

Temperatures:
CPU 92 °C (198 °F)
FUJITSU MHT2040AT PL 49 °C (120 °F)




I have no clue what is high or not, and these were taken right after rebooting after a shutdown so they are probably lower than the actual shutoff temp.

 

I already have a turion 1.6 , isn't the max like only a 2.0? would it be worth it to swap it out?
I seem to remember a huge debate over some sort of handicapping dual core, as in my model had most of the framework, but was handicapped so it bottle necked and dual core was useless.

and this whole thermal grease thing is news to me It just a suggestion about the sizzling issue I used to have, I could be totally wrong, but since I no longer hear it sizzling, and I now have shutdown due to overheating (I assume as Ialso have issues with the processor spooling at 100% fairly often)
So the discovery of thermal grease in an article I ran across had me wondering.

I just hope this thing can be fixed so I can give it to my daughter, and I dont have to hunt her a cheapo laptop instead.

 

wow these temperature readings are quite abnormal especially the CPU and hdd temperatures recorded by everest and overall temperature recorded by HWmonitor. where these readings taken during gaming or idling ??

i think ur heatsink is having some problems. you should seriously consider replacing it

 

Mostly firefox, I have'nt played any games since COD started this whole overheat mess.

I am hoping that I can Get this fixed up to a level my 13 yo daughter will be able to use as primarily internet, and word, so I am not needing it to run games anymore or anything, but if I can't or it turns into a money pit, I might as well snag her a black Friday laptop, or maybe a net book. This was going to be her first laptop, and I was seriouslly thinking of a macbook pro for art stuff, but I am not terribly impressed with the new release, and price, and I may just stick with PC.

But I really would like to get this one working at least as an internet computer if nothing else, especially if i end up keeping it myself until lit burns out and getting her a new laptop, but I am still debating it, How difficult it replacing the heat sink? I will admit its been a good unit it just sucks that this happens just out of warranty (i Think I'll have to dig out the receipt)
basically I want to fix this W/o putting more than about a hundred in it.

 

I am probably gonna regret asking this but what should they have been?

 

To give you an idea, it is common for most notebooks to have a CPU temp of around 30 C for idle and up to the 50 C area for light to medium load. Most newer units actually have motherboard settings to "beep" a warning once you surpass 70 C as that is a critical point. Also, most laptops have an auto shut off similar to what you are experiencing where it just "randomly" powers down to help protect hardware from failing due to heat. Hard drive temps typically follow the same thinking as CPUs, just under slower time frames with longer periods of intense use in order to raise the temperature.

As you can see from your temperature readings, it is showing CPU and Motherboard temperatures way over the "critical" temp threshold. I will throw out that that will it is plausible to burn off CPU thermal grease (or in OEM manufacturers case, a paste or sticker) it is also very rare. More often the culprit of "sizzling" sounds and faint burning smells are one of 3 typical things...

1) Most Common - dust that gets trapped and collected in the notebook vents and heatsinks reaches a point where air can no longer pass through to effectively cool the notebook. Most of the time this is easily fixed by purchasing a 5 to 10 dollar can of compressed air and thoroughly blowing out the vents all around the laptop.
2) Next Most Common - sometimes over time and prolonged higher heat from demanding system usage such as games and the link in conjunction with insulation by dust which naturally forms in the system over time can lead to the slow break down of solder on certain parts. This, for example, is currently a big problem with Nvidia and current notebooks right now. If this is the case, you are better off replacing it.
3) Least Likely, but still possible - a capacitor "popped" of essentially gave out for whatever reason. If one of these goes, however, usually your notebook won't even boot or won't stay on long at all (5 minutes tops if that long). Again, if this is the case, you are looking at a replacement.

My suggestion is similar to those who have already posted. Go to HP's website, print the technical service bulletins, open the laptop and both blow out the dust bunnies as well as clean and reapply the thermal compound between the CPU and the Heat sink. If you follow the directions, this should be a simple solution to try, would take about 1 to 2 hours for most people, and only cost roughly 25 to 30 dollars max.

BBGus

 

gr8 work BBGus i have nothing more to say other than a link that may lead to your service manual

http://www.laptoprepair101.com/laptop/category/laptop-service-manual/

 

Great, I am clueless on the sizzling, as I noticed it wayyyy back when I first got the laptop, but it never caused an issue, It has happened on and off the whole time I have had the laptop ,I mentioned it on the old dv1000 forum but since it is apparently gone for good its moot. But I only suggested it as I haven't noticed it lately.

Question could the High temps possibly be Due to it having an AMD processor?
A friend of mine is an IT for a local hospital, (desktops ) And he was telling me that they are not allowed to buy amd processors because they are overclocked to get Pentium speeds and prone to overheating issues.

Any suggestion on brick and mortar places that carry thermal grease, and a good brand for that matter, I definitely don't want to cause a short circuit.


I am also concerned about it not shutting down automatically until it apparently hits these super elevated temps.

If this clean out, and re grease is a bust, should I bother with having a professional look at it? I want to come out cheap, but I am not opposed to taking it to a pro, as long as the cost would not be more than the laptop is worth.

 

Your friend doesn't know what he's talking about. There have been severe thermal problems with the NVIDIA chips that the dv2000/6000/9000 series AMD notebooks used but the CPUs are fine. Your notebook is older and uses a reliable ATI chipset. The current dv4z/5z/7z notebooks are back to using ATI, thankfully. Intel notebooks with NVIDIA graphics have had the same problems but there are far fewer of those, especially in businesses that are too cheap to upgrade from integrated graphics.

You have one of the slowest Turions. There are far faster ones:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turion

You'll probably have to buy Arctic Silver, etc from a mail order store like Newegg.

 

To answer your questions...

1) While it is true that, typically, AMD processors do run on average warmer than their Intel counterparts, you are talking about a difference of usually 5 to 10 degrees C, which in PC terms is marginal. As for what you buddy said about the Hospital policy and or overclocking, AMDs have typically been known to overclock better than Intel CPUs until the recent launch of the Core 2 Duo series about a year and half or so ago now. Most of the time, unless you buy a "special" version of the processor, they do not come overclocked regardless of brand. So, it is more the policy of the Hospital, in my opinion, than it is an actual issue with a processor. In fact, more than likely, Intel has a contract deal with the PC manufactorers that the Hospital buys from or even the Hospital itself in order to provide price breaks for large orders that would naturally occur with that line of work.

2) In regards to where you can go to buy thermal grease, I have seen packages available in the computer sections of Best Buy, Circuit City, Staples, and Frys to name a few. Depending on where you live, you may just want to make a quick call to your local electronics store and ask. Most places will carry Artic Silver which is made by Antec.

3) In regards to the auto shut down sequence. These temperature thresholds are determined and set in your BIOS by the motherboard/notebook manufacturer. While they are high, they are also still lower than a truly dangerous level that could lead to catastrophic failures. Hence why they program the beeps and auto shutdown and not just let it go until the hardware either fails out right or shuts down the computer due to a BSOD error from corrupted files that can happen at abnormally high temperatures on the hard drive for instance. If it is a concern, however, some manufacturer's do provide the option in the BIOS to set at what temperature you want the computer to preform that auto shutdown sequence. It is usually located by hitting F2 immediately upon turning the computer on and getting the first splash screen. From there, you will usually find it under something to the affect of "System Monitor".

4) Finally, if you try the suggestions and still have problems or feel overwhelmed and just want to have it looked at by a professional, you usually have 3 options.

First, you can go to a local brick and mortar store such as Best Buy or Staples and pay for a "hardware diagnostic" to confirm exactly what's the problem. Most Brick and Mortars will charge a flat fee for the Diagnostic that runs somewhere in the range of $50 to $100. I personally work as a PC technician at Staples as well as previously worked for Best Buy and know that they currently offer hardware diagnostics for $59. The upside is it is a flat rate that is still within your monetary range (<$100). The downside is it can take a while to get to and process your computer depending on who you take it to and how many computers are ahead of yours for repair. This is one of the reasons I chose to work at Staples as we usually only have a few computers versus the "assembly line mentality" that comes from bigger places like Best Buy where they are covering a lot more computers because they sell a lot more computers. Best Buy, for example, usually has a wait time of 3 to 5 days before they even look at your rig at most stores. Another disadvantage to Brick and Mortor repairs is that certifications and standards varied widely as well as costs can rise quickly for even a basic repair.

Second, you can check your local listing for a reputable computer repair technician. These can vary from in home check ups to "bring it in" style locations. While this usually provides the most knowledgable service as most self-owned companies and technicians will have at least a CompTia A+ certification (or should, be sure to check and ask for this if you go this route), they are almost always the most expensive as about 80%-90% they will charge hourly rates. For your budget, this will more than likely be out of the question.

The third and final option would be to contact HP and possibly send it off for repair to them. I would consider this as a last resort considering the repair times are long and expensive for even the most basic of repairs. The one nice thing here is that you can, again as a last option, send it in and request to be contacted about what they find is the problem and how much it would cost to repair before they service the notebook.

Hope this helps.

BBGus