Pictures of X200AFFS-X200 equipped with Flexview screen

They may strip the digitizer themselves and sell them, or the panels may not be manufactured with digitizer attached. Companies simply attach them in and sell as a single unit.

 

Mine comes without digitizer/touch panel. But I do remember reading on some Chinese forum, someone got a version of this panel (same model number) with digitizer and touch panel on it.

As zephir said, it's either that the guy sold the panel to me had them stripped off, or the panel can be ordered with and without these tablet features from the manufacturer.

 

I see. When I posted that message you replied to I was under the impression that they all came with a digitizer that was a part of the panel.

So what about finger touch capability? - Does the panel or the bezel incorporate this feature or is it independent of both? The reason I ask is because ideally I'd want to purchase the relatively cheap resistive single touch x200t and replace the panel with a Hydis AFFS panel whilst retaining the digitizer and removing the touch layer to eliminate grain (before you point out that I could accomplish this by buying a frameless model, the single touch model is preferred because is has less parallax).

I'm a student with only just enough funds available to purchase an x200t and replacement AFFS panel, so I absolutely must be sure of every aspect of the mod before spending my money. If the mod doesn't work because I overlooked just one critical point, I will have wasted precious funds and it would be a very long time before I would have the ability to try it again so please bear with me and my questions.

 

To be honest, the original screen is fine for all intent and purpose if you're coming from a TN screen. There's no need to replace it with AFFS screen in the first place. You will void your warranty, and if the laptop ever dies on you, you'll be out of luck. Not an ideal situation for a student on budget.

 

I'd say there's a fairly decent chance they'd never know unless it's your screen that's gone haywire of course, but if they want to make an issue of it and void your warranty they can do so. You'd probably do better with on-site warranty.

 

Just received my Spyder3 Pro today and created a calibrated profile for the HV121WX4-120 screen. The original X200 screen was too blue, and the HV121WX4-120 was a bit too red/yellow for my taste and the gamma was set to high by default. It looks perfect now after calibration. If glossy/matte is the only difference between HV121WX4-120 and HV121WX4-100, then the profile should also apply to the -100 screen pretty well. For those interested:

http://uploading.com/files/cm874m49/HV121WX4-120_AC_19Feb2010.icm/
http://uploading.com/files/918ad6cm/HV121WX4-120_battery_19Feb2010.icm/

To use it (in Windows 7): Go screen resolution->advanced settings->color management->color management...->tick "use my settings for this device"->add... and use the attached file.

Remember to go to msconfig and disable "c:\windows\system32\igfxpers.exe" on startup. Otherwise the intel color calibration will the profile on startup. Also see if there is a file called "Adobe Gamma" in the startup folder, I've read that it will also override your color management (although this didn't happen to me).

I will try to take some better pictures of the screen and post them here this weekend.

UPDATED:

It turns out that the display properties, especially gamma level, of X200's screen change depending on whether it is on battery power or AC power (the same applies to my X61). So I uploaded two calibrated profiles, one created under AC power, and another one created under battery power. These profiles were created with a target gamma level 2.2 and color temperature 6500k.

If you go to this page

http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/gamma_calibration.php

you would want the lighter and darker bands should blend in at the height labeled "2.2", which is the targeted gamma setting. If you are using the profile for AC power, stare at those bars, and then unplugged your charger (with battery inserted!), you will see the gamma level (the point where all the strips blend together) slides to 1.2~1.4. If instead you applied the profile for battery power, and you are on battery power, plugging in your charger and will slide the gamma level all the way to 3.7.

There is no quick way to switch between profile in Windows 7 (perhaps some software will help). But I suggest you don't bother with the profile for battery power. In fact I do not recommend using it. It seems that when the X200 is on battery power, the display card will enter battery/power saving mode, reducing the gamma/contrast/color range it can generate. My Spyder3 Pro seems to have a hard time adjusting the gamma to a level it satisfies when on battery power. Consequently, the calibrated profile for battery looks pretty crappy, no matter how many times I try, although it did calibrated the a gamma level to 2.2 (seems to be achieved by reducing brightness).

On the other hand, the profile created for AC power still look pretty good under battery power, even though the gamma level is off. So I suggest sticking to the profile calibrated under AC power.

 

rather than using shared ICC profiles, i suggest using the in-built color calibration provided with windows 7 (for those using win 7, of course).   rather than tack instructions onto this thread hoping users would see it, i started a new thread.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?p=5912559

 

Just took some better pictures:











For more pictures of it:
http://picasaweb.google.com/iamtsekahei/HV121WX4120?feat=directlink

 

Let's see, I've got one of these X200s coming. I been looking at screens. It seems my best option price wise would be to one with a digitizer and remove it. Anyone done this and know what's involved?

 

you bought a CCFL model, correct?   if so, this is simply an R&R (remove and replace) job.

this mod is WAY easier than what's involved in making an X61/X61s with an SXGA+ panel.   that mod requires cutting, fabricating, and a custom BIOS.   this one is dead simple if you can follow either the HMM or service training video.

 

I assume so, but I suppose I won't know til I get it. I'm aware of the difficulty of doing the X6x swap. It's why I don't have one already. I'm more concerned about the digitizer. The ones I found on eBay all have them. How hard is it to remove? It can't be too bad, but I thought I'd ask to see if anyone knew. khtse does have those nice matte ones without the digitizer, which I'd prefer, but I'd rather have the $90 and take the digitizer off myself.

 

the digitizer comes off the back with ease.   it's held on by double-sided tape and a few screws.

the writing surface, if held on by foam tape, will come off with a razor blade (if used carefully) or dental floss.   if it's a direct-bonded panel with a glass writing surface then the safest method will be to split the LCD open, carefully remove the frame without allowing dust inside the rest of the panel, and carefully cutting the 3M VHB (very high bond) adhesive with a razor blade being cognizant of the glass.

the -120 panel is matte underneath and the -110 is glossy.   you'll have to decide which one you'll prefer to use in the end.

 

Hey Guys,

I am thinking about purchasing the matte version even though it goes for quite a bit more.

Just to make sure it works with the X200, this is the one I found on ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370332447857&ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:US:1123

Can anyone confirm that this is the correct version. Also, does anyone have a link on the tutorial on how to disassemble the LCD panel?

Tuan

 

I have the same screen for sale here at NBR, check out my ad at the marketplace section
http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=461352

For instruction about how to taking apart the LCD, see the X200 HMM (starting page 138)
http://www-307.ibm.com/pc/support/site.wss/document.do?lndocid=MIGR-70149

Note that in the HMM, it tells you to remove the whole LCD assembly (page 114). You do NOT have to do this step, just follow from page 138 onwards.

 

Thanks! I sent you a PM khtse.

 

So the HV121WX4-120 will only work with CCFL X200. How to get a CCFL X200? Is there anyway to know if it's LED or CCFL? Specific model number maybe? The X200 that is available to buy new in Lenovo, is it CCFL or LED?

I know this may be a silly question but what are the chances that these screens will work with X201?

Thank you

 

Hi,

You guys have convinced me to buy a HV121WX4-110 off ebay for my wife's x200. However I just acquired a X200t with digitizer but I am very disappointed with the screen (kind of "grainy" looking), it is worse than my wife's x200. Do you think I could put the HV121WX4-110 into my x200t and it would fit perfectly?

Thanks in advance.

 

The grainy feel is due to the touch surface on top of the LCD panel itself. I'm not sure if the HV121WX4-110 you purchased on ebay comes with the touch surface or not. If yes, then probably you will still find that grainy fee, but for X200 (non-tablet), you have to remove that touch surface in order to install it anyway.

 

Now that the X201 has come out, who wants to volunteer to get it and then take a photo of the connector so we can see whether it's compatible with the LED-backlit Flexview screen or not

 

no need.   it uses the exact same cable as the X200.

 

So I guess X200 isn't destined to have LED AFFS screen then

 

doesn't look like it... not without a custom jumper harness fabricated anyway.

CCFL AFFS+ is possible though.

 

CCFL possible with a lot of modifications correct. I may just buy one and take it apart but an X201s which in Europe has the same screen as the X200. If I get one I don't mind undoing the screws. Mind you if the LED gives me eye sore, I need to be able to send it back in 7 days ... That is a bit of a gamble at U$1,600 especially when I cannot find a CCFL AFFS screen in stock anywhere. Are there any other brands apart from Boe Hydis that do a similar CCFL quality screen ?

 

again (for the third time) it depends on what display you start with.   if it's an X201s with the WXGA+ panel then you can expect to replace the entire display assembly.   if you start with the WXGA panel then you'll need to replace the panel, LVDS cable, and inverter.

the above holds true for an X200.   any LED model can be converted back to CCFL given enough money to throw at the project.   you can expect to spend a minimum of $350~400 if only a few parts need replaced, up to $600~700 if the entire upper assembly needs replaced.   this is on top of whatever you pay for an LED model X200/X201.

 

Hey Guys,

i just installed one of these panels on my x200 and it is great, but I am getting a whining noise.

I thought I had the problem solved but apparently not. I am not sure if it is the screen or the inverter that is damaged. If I power on the laptop, the whine is turned on but it instantly disappears when I plug in the power cord. If I turn on the laptop with the a/c plugged, the whine is there, but if I unplug the power cord and plug it right back in, the whine is gone.

Also, the whine seems to change with the brightness level of the screen. If the brightness is set to its mid level, the whine is very apparent, but when I turn the brightness all the way up, the noise disappears.

I am not sure what is going on. Any suggestions?

Tuan

 

it could be your processor going in and out of a power-managed stated.   change your power plan to "high performance" and see if it continues.

if that doesn't fix it (and the noise does appear to be emitting from the inverter or backlight) then you have a defective part somewhere.   it's possible that the display you purchased is faulty, was damaged in shipment, or damaged in installation or the inverter is failing.

 

I may have found a source for the Boe Hydis screens but not completely sure yet. If it does come through I will post the details ASAP.

 

Keep me updated. The X200 is a fantastic laptop for me. I can see me use this laptop for quite a few years. So an upgraded screen is a small investment. But on the other hand when seeing those ebay prices and when I factor in shipping costs and import duties, I might as well buy a netbook. The best deals seem to be only for people living in the US too.

Still have to make a decision. Price is obviously a factor for me.

 

Varman I have the same thing with current screens on sale. The person who is sourcing the screens for me asks for a picture of the back of a Boe Hydis - 120 screen. I cannot remember if there is one here on the forum anywhere...

 

I bought an HV121WX4-120. It is a FRU# 45N6091, which is a CCFL LCD from an X200 TABLET 12.1 WXGA. It does not have any glass touch panel, but it does have a digitizer card taped to the back. My understanding in looking at the X200T maintenance manual is that there are (2) types of X200 tablet LCD's, one is a single touch panel, and the other is a direct bonding glass model (multitouch ?). I'd assume that I have the single touch panel model. Will this fit in an X200? It is very thin, so I am not worried about the thickness of it, just the connector. It appears to be 1.25 inches long or so. Also, I'd assume that if it does fit I can just leave the digitizer card in place?

 

I think one needs to remove the digitizer. If you back within this thread then you likely will find the answer. BTW where did you obtain the screen? Am looking for same on.

 

If there is no cable plugged into it, and it is not in the way, why is that so? I have read this entire thread before I posted and I see folks making mention of removing it, but why is it required? At least one person mentioned firing up the assembly with the digitizer installed and having it work. In fact I think they posted a picture, but had to remove the glass touch panel because it was too thick. This LCD has no glass touch panel. I got if from EBay.

 

harry - there's no reason to leave the digitizer on the back.   all it will do is add extra weight.   you'd need an X200T LVDS cable, LED card, and BIOS to actually make it work, and trying to adapt that stuff to a notebook would be an undertaking all in itself.

so, remove it.   it's completely useless.

btw, i take i you snagged the HV121WX4-120 with the scratch in the upper left, correct?   i was watching that one and someone bought it before the seller could answer me if the scratch was in the writing surface or the actual LCD.   it sounds like my hunch was correct -- someone screwed up trying to remove the writing surface.   hopefully it isn't too bad.

 

Yes that is the one. It's more of a scuff than a scratch, so I am hoping it won't be visible once the LCD is lit. It is about 3/8 inch long and is in the upper left hand corner. As far as the damage being caused by the writing surface removal, that is a mystery to me because there is no evidence of the black double sided tape that everyone mentioned in this thread, and as seen in this pic from several posts back.



Is it possible that for some models of the X200T that the writing surface is not glass? I'm scratching my head on this one. Also, nobody really answered my question about this panel actually fitting at the connector on an X200. As far as weight, it is a really small and thin card, I don't see weight being an issue.

 

Thanks anyway, I answered my own questions.

http://home.comcast.net/~harryc56/Jpegs/X200_AFFS.jpg

 

Erik I have sent a bunch of mails around the globe looking for that screen ... if I find a few I will let you know. I do know the -110 is available but that one is glossy.

 

harry - not all have direct-bonded (aka 3M VHB) glass surfaces.   models with polycarbonate surfaces are held on with black foam tape.

perfectionseeker - keep me posted.   i'm definitely in the market for a -120.   the one harry snagged was cheap.   i'm kicking myself for not taking the risk and buying it.

 

Bingo...that's exactly what I saw. Black foam tape on (2) sides of it. Thanks Erik.

 

I think there is a -120 floating around on Ebay USA but for 300 bucks ! I have written to a company who was selling them for 93 dollars ! But judging from their failure to reply they may not have it. My potential source in Taiwan had sold you !

 

So I removed the writing surface on the front (ended up scratching it a bit when the glass broke) but i have a question the backside of the display. On the back I see a WACOm chip on a circuit board attched with an orange cable and a really wide blue cable. Do I cut both cable ribbons? Also, on the back is a silver material (I assume is the input surface for the digitizer) can I remove this silver surface to save weight?

TIA

 

Does this mean I can simply buy HV121WX6-120 LCD panel and replace it on my X201 LED without any modification?

 

No
-------------------------------

 

It's been a while since the X201 was released. Is it safe to say an AFFS mod isn't likely to ever be feasible?

 

The X200 and X201 are very similar. They share a hardware maintenance manual. My guess would be any of the HV121WX4 LCDs that work in the X200 would work in the X201 if you replaced the LCD cable and inverter, but I don't have any firsthand knowledge and I've not seen anyone do it yet.

 

ZaZ is correct.   an X201/X201s can be converted to a CCFL AFFS+ panel as long as enough parts are replaced.   an X201 needs an LCD cable and inverter where an X201s would need the entire LCD housing assembly (cover, bezel, hinges, antennas, etc.) replaced.

it can be done.

 

So i picked up a used X200 off craiglist for $300 (Score!). I am very interested in doing this mod, as screen is totally dreadful. Did anybody here get one of those take-off panels from ebay? They seem to be going for 50-60 bucks. Do you think its worth taking the risk of buying a used panel or not? I particularly want the glossy version.

 

^This is something I'd be interested in as well. Looks like there's a good supply of these relatively inexpensive AFFS displays... and I think I could afford to drop that kind of money on this. Hmmmm.

Edit: These displays might be discounted this much due to possibly scratches and etc. on the digitizer surface? Since the digitizer is going to be removed anyway if it goes into an X200... that might be just a moot point.

 

Do you know where the LCD cable and inverter can be purchased for the X201? Also, which affs screen model number is the best one for the X201? I saw several models on the Boe Hydis website. Thank you.

 

44C9909 (CCFL LVDS cable with bluetooth and camera connections)

42W8009 or 42W8010 (inverter)

45N6091 (BOE-hydis HV121WX4-120 WXGA AFFS+ matte display)


any HV121WX4-1xx variant should work in these systems but the 120 suffix is the only one known to be matte instead of glossy.

parts can be purchased through IBM maintenance parts or various vendors online.

 

Thanks for the awesome reply! I noticed in the specs for the screen that there are 262K colors. Do you know if this is dithered to 16 mil?