*** MSI 16L13 (Eurocom Tornado F5)/EVOC 16L-G-1080 15.6" Owner's Lounge ***

I dont really see this has a DTR, I can get a good 3-4 hours on the battery life and its about 6.5lb which is very good for such power. Hell my Clevo w230ss weighs in at 4.5lb and gets about 3.5 hours on battery. I'm using the battery now in Honolulu.

 

This laptop has the capabilities of a desktop = DTR, no matter heavy it is or how much time the battery lasts. By its definition, basically any laptop with a desktop CPU is a DTR (With some details here and there)

Maybe we could call this a "light and portable" DTR

 

Around 43 degrees Celsius, with cooler boost on it will be 1-5 degrees cooler. When stressing CPU it can go all the way up to 90 degrees Celsius with no under volt/under clock with cooler boost on. But it's a bit cooler when playing less intensive games.
CPU is around 70-80 degrees Celsius (idle) without cooler boost.

 

so i got lucky and got this instead of micron 2133mhz!

 

seems perfect to me, with some undervolt and repaste it will be even better!

 

Yeah. But I want to play games in bed. This thing can melt if I do that.

 

Update:

Got the replacement GPU last night and popped it in. So far so good, no crashes, no weird artifacts like before. I have however, experienced a couple screen flickering during gaming but so far it has been able to come back. I'm not sure if that means I'm in the clear.

One thing to note though is before I replaced it, I pulled HWiNFO and GPU-Z to see if I could pick up any errors. When it would flicker, I took a look at what the sensors were saying and I found out that the GPU power package became greyed out and didn't change anymore. I looked at GPU-z and noticed it was throttling, I saved the log so you guys can see.

Seems like something power related it making it do that??



Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

 

Do you have the 230W or 330W power adapter? The reason why I am asking is my vast experience with desktop computers. If one of my computers were drawing more power than my PSU could provide, I would get display driver crashes, black screens and more. If you have a power meter, I suggest you see how much draw your computer is pulling. If it is a faulty mobo causing the higher draws, you may have to get it replaced. Keep an eye on it.

 

I have the 230W adapter. I'm not overclocking, actually I'd like to down clock. I still had these issues in the past when I was using throttlestop.

The highest I ever recorded my GPU to pull was just under 139W, and my CPU at stock clocks with a -160 undervolt was around 75W. That's cutting it close if it was at the same time but they weren't, if that matters.

Right now, the replacement GPU I got is holding up relatively well, no crashes, no artifacts, no funky stuff like the one before. At this point it has to be either the mobo or psu. I'd have to pick up a power meter soon. If it was the mobo though, there a chance it could eventually ruin the new GPU?

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

 

Based off your previous posts, I assumed you didn't OC or don't OC much. However, if it is a bad mobo, it could be drawing more power than it should, thus harming your GPU. At this point, this is all speculation from me, based off my experience with computing.

My suggestion to anyone that spends 1K+ on a computer to have certain tools in their computer toolbox and one of those tools are power meters. There are a lot of inexpensive AC power meters out there and they are very helpful to keep an eye on your computer.

 

Forgive what might seem to be a simple question but.. what would be a way to check the power draw of the mobo under full load aside from the wall? Reason being is, say the power brick is fine, I wouldn't see anything abnormal on that end right? I assume it won't be able to draw more power than its rated, unless I'm mistaken of course.

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

 

If a power adapter is a good quality adapter, it actually has more overhead than it is rated for. So a 230W may have a 250 to 300W peak. With that in mind, you should expect spikes, however if you see constant draws above 230W, then you either have a bad power adapter or worse. Unfortunately, there is no good way to test power between a computer and the power adapter besides using software.

The good thing is that you got a new GPU and it is working. The former GPU might have just been bad. I say run the GPU through several valley cycles to ensure your system is stable.

 

So Windows 7 does not have native USB3.0 drivers on the install disk or .iso's. To get around it you have to install through USB2.0 or set your BIOS settings to allow a 'legacy' mode for the USB 3.0 ports. Unfortunately, the F5 only has USB 3.0 ports and @Eurocom has not provided a BIOS with an option that allows the USB3.0 ports to function as 2.0. I tried with an external DVD drive and then creating an iso with my W7 disk but both options would not allow me to proceed with the W7 install.

There is a way around this. You have to add USB3.0 drivers to your W7 bootable .iso.

I used this guide: http://codeabitwiser.com/2014/03/how-to-install-windows-7-with-only-usb-3-0-ports/

Just make sure you use the USB3.0 drivers off of the Eurocom website for the F5.


Also, hello everyone! I have read through this thread like a hawk since I ordered my F5 back in September but due to shipping, it arrived just after I left the country and have not had access to it until a couple of days ago. I appreciate all of the useful info in this thread and look forward to contributing!

So after dealing with installing W7 with USB3 as I talked about, and then the Windows Update never ending search for update issue I am finally up and running with my new F5! I'll just say that I have an extreme dislike for Windows 10 at the moment but I may dual boot it in the future like I do with my desktop.

Specs:

6700k
32gb kingston 2400mhz
GTX1070
2x Samsung M2. 500gb SSD's

I had a few questions that have not yet been answered in the thread:

1. The latest Nvidia drivers (376.09) show up as unsupported when I try to install on the F5. The 375.95 work just fine. Has anyone managed to get the 376.09 installed on their laptop?

2. How the heck do I get Soundblaster Cinema 3 working!? The driver disk I received had W10 drivers on it but the SBC drivers from it installed just fine. For whatever reason they are not posted on the Eurocom website. After install and trying to run SBC3 it says I have no supported hardware and everything is greyed out on the SBC3 menu.

3. Do I need both the Realtek Audio drivers and the SBC3 installed?

4. On the Eurocom website for the F5 it lists the Audio spec as 'Sound Blaster X-FI MB3' but when I try to install the drivers from creative (XMB-VDWEB-2-11.exe) it asks for a product key.

 

@SpacemanSpiff46

I have 376.09 installed on my P870DM-G. You and other DTR users need to either modify the existing INF or download a modified one.

 

Is there anything better than Silent Option?

 

Answers:

1. Can't help you on that as right now I'm using an old notebook until my desktop is finished

2. & 3. You first install the sound drivers provided by Eurocom that are specific to the hardware in question. You then go and proceed with the Cinema 3 software and the options should appear. That's what I did when I had my GT60 to make the SBCv1 work.

4. Those are Creative drivers tailored for their product. The "Sound Blaster X-FI MB3" is copied over from the specs of the M5 model. The F5 uses a Realtek codec which is different

Regarding Windows 7 and USB 3.0 ports, you guys can use "Simplix update pack" which integrates the latest Windows 7 updates along with most common USB 3.0 drivers. Faster, easier and cleaner for an up-to-date iso

 

Latest Nvidia drivers released today seem to fix G-Sync issues for a lot of people according to release notes, specifically g-sync flicker in BF1 on notebook g-sync. I'll test later and report back. Fingers crossed these are good drivers.

 

Well, due to some miscommunication and lack of response I may or may not be getting my MSI 16L13. Apparently when I asked for signature required I was expecting the ability to schedule a pickup at my local UPS center, but Cyberpower locked it into ONLY delivery + signature. I contacted UPS, but they have stated the only way for me to get my package is to be at home when they attempt to deliver it, which I can't do at the moment. The only way for me to pick it up is if Cyberpower removes the restriction before it gets returned back to sender. I've asked Cyberpower to remove the restriction so I can schedule a pickup but haven't heard back from them.

Was really excited when I ordered the laptop due to savings/bonuses, but now, kind of regretting it. Shame.

I might just have to resort to ordering GTVR62 from Bestbuy so I can pick it up, can't deal with UPS shenanigans at the moment.

 

Seriously ridiculous. What is the difference between signing for it at your house and signing for it at the UPS facility? I would call them up and talk to their support team. If they fail to deliver your package then you're not on the hook for any fees they may try and charge you. Call your credit card company/PayPal and let them know whats happening, they always side with the buyer.

 

Yeah, whenever I've requested a delivery with signature I've always been able to schedule a pickup at my UPS center, so this was a new one to me. Maybe it was a clerical error on their part, or again miscommunication as to what I was requesting. I've already worked out my strategy from best case to worse case scenario.

 

*sight* I think I'll have to give up buying this laptop. Argentina is a complicated country to import things: 1400 dollars is way above what I can legally import ($1000 being the maximum, with a 50% tax due to importing + 35% tax due to technology), and no importer will do the job for less than $1000 dollars. I can in no way justify (To myself) paying $1400 for the laptop + $1000 to import it, even if it's my dream machine.

I don't really want to, but I think I'll have to settle with a PC + lower spec laptop for on the go. Sucks.

 

WOW. So you're taxed 85% on imports?! And here I thought the US had stupid import tariffs (especially considering what Trump wants to do now).

 

Yep, as long as it's $1000 or less. For more expensive stuff you've got to register as an importer, and there starts the real mess haha!

Anyway, theorically, in March the 35% tax on most PC and laptops things will be erased, still, cannot import **** due to money caps

 

Steve at Cyberpower got back to me. Turns out it's my fault... well, technically Amazon, but my fault for paying through Amazon payments. I didn't know Amazon payment has a real strict deliver only to address on file and even Cyberpower can't change the restriction. I have to wait for 3 failed delivery attempts before UPS/Amazon will let me schedule a pickup. So, lesson learned is don't pay with Amazon payment if you want flexibility.

Can't wait to see the condition of the package when I go pick it up.

 

Just ordered my F5.

Now need to purchase storage. Any suggestions?

Deciding between using my Samsung evo sata or picking up a m.2 pcie SSD perhaps Intel 600p.

Some people have signatures, but what's everyone else using?

 

What about Samsung 950 Pro?

 

$$$. Guess I could downsize to 256.

 

intel 600p is 70$ in microcenter i also got 9$ rebate so even if samsung pro is best pcie SSD i think intel 256gb cannot be ignore at this price specially after intel has increase endurance of 256gb model.

 

Everything I've read on the net shows that it's not worth getting anything faster than a SATA 3 SSD unless you're transferring a lot of large files regularly (or working with large databases). Boot times & application load times, document load times, etc are all the same regardless of SATA 3 SSD or PCIe SSD - I think for most people SATA 3 SSD is all that's needed for any real world benefits. So I'd go with your Samsung Evo SATA.

 

So word of the wise..

M2 NVme drives will throttle quite easily in our systems. My PM951 will go from a 1800mb/sec read down to 32mb/sec (ouch!).. Heatsinks are likely required in our systems but there's literally zero room to do so.. I'll let you know what I can figure out.

 

A thermal pad should alleviate the heat and eliminate the throttling.

 

I have Arctic thermal pads I could use.. Just the pad by itself on top of the SSD chips? Does that work well enough? I ordered some very low height heatsinks from amazon, but not sure if it will fit still.

 

Hey guys, Im having an issue with the sound on my unit. All of the audio is coming out of the subwoofer instead of the actual speakers. I've tried various drivers and settings and I'm kinda out of ideas. It almost seems like the top speakers arent being recognized. Anyone seen this issue before?

 

Hi. So I repasted my GPU and CPU yesterday, and noticed some black spots on my CPU (Like on top where the heat sink touches the CPU). I got this laptop last week and was wondering if the black spots were from thermal paste applied before.

 

Yeah, on top of the ssd chips. Some of the companies which configure laptops using pads. Maybe it's just Dellienware who have their own special M.2 SSD cooling.

 

I have some new pads and some copper shims, I wonder if the shims on top of the thermal pad would help even further?

 

The M.2 SSD heatsink I have seen, have a metal lid on top of the thermal pads. This ↑↑↑ is almost the same way. The main thing is that you make sure that it can circulate air around

 

That's the issue.. the placement of the m2's are completely opposite side of the fans in the machine :/ There is really no air circulation unless I leave the bottom of the laptop off and set it on top of my notebook cooler and leave the fans on. And at this point it's no longer a laptop since it's basically stationary without a bottom lid hah. I might have to deal with some throttling... in average use there's no throttling, only when I copy 10gb or more larger files is long enough for it to heat up to the point of slowing down.

 

Right exactly.

The heatsinks you mentioned... are they the ones intended for RAM? Those might work, but depending on how hot the drive is getting, it might be better to avoid them (the adhesive is prone to loosening with high temps, causing them to drop off and float around in your system).

 

They are VRM type heatsinks with just sticky thermal pad adhesive.. I'm not sure the heatsinks will even fit with the bottom cover on, the m2's sit extremely close to the lid:


I went ahead and removed the stickers and moved them to the bottom of the m2 pcb:

 

How about building the pads up to a thickness so that they're compressed by the base cover, that way you transfer heat to the base cover of the laptop - especially if base cover is made of metal.

 

These new drivers from Nvidia are completely F'd for me in BF1. Screen flickers, fps is low and very inconsistent leading to massive stuttering. Disabling G-sync gives great performance though and fast sync works great. Can anyone else please test these drivers to confirm same behavior so I can rule out a defective g-sync screen.

 

Bottom lid is pure ABS plastic unfortunately but great idea.

 

@Diversion - If those do fit, let us know how well they work.

 

I've had problems with the last 3 versions of Nvidia drivers with G-Sync enabled too.. like low FPS and oddities.. I had to keep rolling back until I was back to normal. Don't remember which version was last good one for me though.

 

Will do and here's the link on Amazon of the ones i'm trying:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HSBM3MG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The measurements say they are .23" tall.. I'm thinking/hoping that them being less than a quarter inch tall, it should fit without touching the bottom cover.

 

are there any dedicated heatsink like on plextor pcie drives? i think those will fit perfectly.

like these: https://www.amazon.com/Plextor-PX-1...81051101&sr=8-1&keywords=plextor+heatsink+m.2

 

I wish but apparently nothing yet.. A heatspreader would be ideal for m2 drives and not sure why Samsung and other makes haven't done them sooner seeing as these m2 drives will heat up beyond 100c and throttle after about 75c.. Not sure why they think that's acceptable..

 

what about this? http://www.ebay.com/itm/560W-mk-M-2...822699?hash=item2a7662f32b:g:v2EAAOSwcUBYQdBE

i order intel 600p over mx300 just because i thought those heat sink would be readily available its a shame such thing is ignored. nvme throttles like crazy and not having heat sink/spreader available is disappointed.

 

Received my msi laptop today,

Where do I source the RGB keyboard drivers ?

And I thought the onboard sound was creative not Realtek ? Possibly got the wrong driver for that ?

And lastly I bought a g sync one and on my Nvidia control panel there's no "set up g sync"