** MSI GE62 Apache (and Pro) Owner's Lounge**

That's broadwell for you, but it should give you a nice little boost in performance for that at least.

 

Does anyone know how well the samsung sm951 ssd performs in this laptop, i know the laptop has a m.2 pci-e 2.0 slot and the ssd utilizes m.2 pci-e 3.0 so i would think that the sm951 wouldn't be fully supported, if that's the case, can an adapter like the one listed here allow it to work at its full potential?

 

Guys has MSI solved battery drain issue during gaming in this laptops or this is still present?

 

Additionally, can anybody check if battery drain exists in models with GTX 965m or it's only with GTX970m?

 

I'm interested in 970M model (for my liking better than P651S but this drain).... If this issue still exists i will go with clevo P651S...

Please respond

 

according to what ive read , the battery is designed to drain even when on ac.

 

Power boost is still being used on current models.

 

Hey guys,
yesterday i was superexcited about my GE QF 237 (i7 5700HQ, GTX 970) coming today. Now after finding this forum and reading about Hybrid power, which i wasn't aware of i am more then a bit scared. Although i have had 4830TG laptop from Acer (GPU died after 4 yrs now - R.I.P), which had built-in battery that lasted almost 3 years of heavy gaming. It never drew power from battery, when gaming.

1. Is it possible to at least unplug the battery? I know it is removable but i won't remove 15 screws daily... so is there a switch to just disconnect it?
2. What performance i would get without battery? Stock speed with no Turbo? Or something even worse?
3. What battery life (and i mean the life of the hardware not between charges) you experienced on previous models (no guesses pls, just experience)

 

1. It can be unplugged from the PCB but proceed with caution because if anything is physically broken will not be covered under warranty.
2. Possibly a 20 to 30% reduction in GPU performance, other areas are not impacted.
3. Approximately 2 hours, maybe more if you elect extreme power saving settings.

 

Thank you with GTX 970 loosing 30% is not that bad... most games except for the '15 ones should be ok i think .

The 3rd point... you have answered exactly what i didn't want you to answer . I have probably expressed myself incorrectly - I was interested in knowing, how long the battery worked until you had to replace it. Not how long it lasts until discharge. It must be enormous stress for the battery to discharge when it should charge and wear it really quickly.

 

Gotcha, typical battery life is 500 cycles, more or less depends on your habit.
Warranty on battery is one year so after that if it has to go then it will go.
Recommendation: Enjoy it while it lasts, instead of worrying about it. You may actually have bigger fishes to fry in life than a battery.
But if you really must, charge battery at 40% then disconnect it from the system for long-term storage, and plug in if you are going to travel, this way the battery can last longer because it isn't constantly charged/discharged.

 

Yeah, you nailed it. There are better things to care about then the battery. I loved my old HP ntb - no screws just a pull-in/pull-out battery . I play almost daily and also almost daily i need the battery to hold as long as possible...

Well, thank you for your answer. I got everything i need will report back to all of you how does it perform later, so those interested in the i7 5700HQ model would know what to expect.

 

Hi all

I have MSI GE60 2OE (2013 Model) and it comes with mSata slots. I am current using Crucial M500 mSata. However, the current GE62 comes with M.2 instead of mSata which make my M500 incompatible should I upgrade to GE62. I would like to know if I can use an adapter mSata to M.2 as shown in this video:
as I do not want to waste my M500 and have to buy new M.2 SSD

Thanks for all the advice!

 

Were you referring to this adapter? Since the one in the video is incorrect.
http://www.amazon.com/Bplus-Adapter-SATA-based-Maximum-dimension/dp/B00LAQRT7A

 

MSI GE62 2QG (237) - a review and a guide
CPU: i7 5700HQ
GPU: GTX 970
RAM: 8GB
MEM: 2x 128GB SSD, 1TB HDD

A review

Spoiler: Design, keyboard and the "toughpad"

The chassis, of this ntb, is really well made. It is the best combination of light and durable materials. The chassis bends a bit when you push on it. It is enough, to just place your hands comfortably on the keyboard and it bends a little. but it is nothing catastrophic. You won't notice it normally. Materials used, look very nice and pricy and give it a look of titanium made, bullet-proof monster, weighting 1000 kilograms - the ultimate surprise comes, when you lift it and realize, that it actually is really light for gaming laptop.

The keyboard is great. Very silent and comfortable to use. I would recommend this ntb to all the woodpeckers out there, who bash the keys like if they wanted to punish their lappy for something. What is a little worse is the layout. For me it is hard to get used to it bcs of two things: 1. i came from smaller ntb 14" with no numerical block and 2. the gaming layout is a little messy for me. Like backslash key next to spacebar on the right side. Every single time i want to write "@" it just makes "\v" bcs i hit that button. And the start key could easily be on the left side (thankfully there is at least the on on the right side of spacebar) for Win shortcuts. The most annoying thing is,that Numpad is disabled every time i restart/shutdown PC. When you have PIN password or number in account password, it is a bit annoying to always have to activate it again or forget about it and mistype password and wonder what is wrong . Except for that, it is awesome and nicely backlit.

Woodpecker's heaven - the "toughpad"... i just can't call it touchpad. It has no acceleration curve as some other touchpads have. Some ppl does not like acceleration, but with bigger screens it is useful. [There is also no roller so you can't use it to scroll] - found out there is two finger scroll. Now to the reason why i call it toughpad. The problem is the left/right mouse key. It is known, that it makes sound, but this is like taking a hammer and bashing into it. Really terrible.

Spoiler: Performance, heat and a jet sound

I didn't try gaming yet and will write about it later, but i am almost worried to even try it now, but lets start with basic speed. Windows start within 2 seconds. There is no slowdown, everything runs superfast. Only thing that slows everything down is Windows 8.1. not bcs of bad performance, but i came from W7 and it has extremely messy interface.

Heat. There is a lot of it. Even when idle i couldn't get under 47°C and i had to enable Power saving and that Green mode and the CPU still reached 50°C. When using balanced profile it balances around 60°C with spikes crossing 75°C. I didn't even tried the Sport mode yet. It will probably scorch the CPU. //i have been moving files from old ntb to this new one and cleaning obsolete windows update files and the computer is brand new, so temps will probably be lower when it settle down a bit.//

Fans are pretty loud. When powersaving is enabled, CPU settles around 50°C and fans are off almost all the time. Other power plans heat a lot more so when doing anything ONE fan runs 3-4k RPM which makes sound similar to optical drive reading a DVD at max. speed. I said ONE as the other fan is off all the time. It probably cools down GPU so it is not needed. I tested, that it is not broken by dedicated button which enable both fan to run at MAX speed (5700rpm). I thought the ntb will fly away when the roaring of both fans started

Spoiler: Battery

Well, not much to say here. You could squeeze 5-6 hrs in theory. Yesterday, i managed to get 5hrs with powersaving (not really tested just seen it in battery stats in the system trey). So with debloating and a little tweaking, it could be possible. My old lappy had almost the same battery capacity (60wh) and, when i bought it, lasted 9-11hrs (Acer 4830TG - i5 2410m, GT540M, 600GB 5400rpm disk, HD 14" display). It is caused by bigger display and power hungry CPU, but for gaming lappy it is good.

ADD: I have managed to measure 5,6 hrs... tested by deplepting 29% and then recalculating for 100%.
ADD2: Ntb lasted for 3 and a half episode of a TV show (aprox. 40 min. one episode), watched on external monitor.

Spoiler: Gaming and benchmark

Ok, today I tested the real performance and this notebook is a monster. I have tested Hitman: Absolution Benchmark.
Game parameters: RES: FHD, Borderless w.; VSYNC: on; MSAA: 2x; Details: Ultra
Ntb parameters: Sport mode on, high performance power plan
Results: FPS: min.: 32, avg.:48, max.: 80; TEMPS: GPU max 69°C, CPU max 87°C.

I have repeated this benchmark 6 times with results almost the same - Min. FPS 28-32, avg. FPS 40-41,2, Max. 80. Tested 3 times in a row - no decrease in performance = no throttling.

//Only problem with the benchmark was, that it ran always in fullscreen no matter what i set, so i couldn't see real time values of GPU and CPU frequency changes. I used Windows Task Manager to see the frequency graph of at least part of the benchmark. CPU ran at about 70% of max. Also used Throttlestop 8.00 to measure max. temps.//

Tested the benchmark in green mode with both turbo off. Results are MIN 31, AVG. 37, MAX. 59. technically it is decrease of 4 fps in average which is not much. The positive side is that temps lower a lot for CPU - max. 81°C. GPU just to 66°C
Throttlestop stress-test. Heated the CPU to 91°C, which maintained its max. 3,5 GHz frequency.
//EDIT: Found out, that the green mode can sometimes lower temps, but sometimes can make them higher. It is caused by passive cooling policy of the green mode.//

Spoiler: External battery / Power bank review - RAVPower 23 000 mAh

INTRODUCTION
This notebook is not a battery endurance star. You can squeeze 5 hours of it, with a lot of tuning, but still, it is not enough. This is the reason why i bought this power bank.

There are more power bank manufacturers out there, but most of them sell very low quality stuff. Only few work with our notebook and even less is save to use (at least, this is my opinion) The main problem are voltage and amperage. Almost non is able to provide 20 volts and absolutely non of them is capable of 8A charge. You might think, that it is not a problem, it would just charge slower, but you could not be more wrong.

WHY AND WHEN IT WORKS - SOME TECH DETAILS
Volts must fit. You could seriously damage your notebook, if volts were too low or too high either. It should be exactly the same. Thankfully this powerbank has Voltage steps, which cover range of voltages. One of them covers everything from 19V to 20V, so this exactly what we need.

Everything seems OK here, but only till you look at the amperage. Only 4,5A. Again, if you think this is not a problem, you are wrong, mainly because you probably don't know, how electricity works (it's ok, i didn't know either, but i searched a lot on interned and found a few things). The most important to understand is, that powerbank is not "giving" the energy to a device, but the device "pulls" the energy from the powerbank. The difference is that, if it was otherwise, 4,5A would be enough as it would just really charge slowly the device, but in reality, device tries to pull as much as its inner battery is able to accept (in my case 7,7A). If the powerbank had no protection it would melt down. In this case it just switches off.

Now you may ask, why would i advice you, to buy something, that cannot work. Well, under certain circumstances, it can. Those circumstances are: either the notebook is off or the battery is charged.

When notebook is off, it just works, no more elaboration on that, but the second circumstance needs a bit more explanation. Do you remember the fact about 4,5A i told you? Yeah? Well, it does not apply in this case. Because full battery is... well.. full, it sucks from the external source just enough to stay full and nothing more. This means, if you won't do anything power hungry, that would force the battery to draw more then 4,5A you will be able to use this powerbank. I was able to watch HD movie, download files and run file compression in the background. So, the powerbank should work unless you launch any app with nVidia GPU.

LET THE NUMBERS SPEAK!
Now, to numbers and values! Everyone loves them! The powerbank charges 3% within 10 minutes and looses 2% of its capacity. To use this battery when notebook is turned on, always fully charge it, via power outlet. By "fully" i mean to the state when Windows says, that it is charged. It doesn't matter if it is 100% or 90%, it just has to stop charging (to fulfill the less-then-4,5A-drain condition)

The powerbank needs a few hours to charge. It charges from 0% to 50% in 2 hours. 90% it reaches in 4 hours and fully charged it is 30 minutes later.

//There was a weird jump from 90% directly to 100% after longer period of sitting on 90%, then it took some more time till the battery switched off fully charged, but it just might be because it was first charge/discharge cycle, so it needs to calibrate//

A guide
I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY IF ANYTHING GOES WRONG FOR YOU. YOU COULD SERIOUSLY DAMAGE YOU COMPUTER. BY OPENING THIS SPOILER, YOU ARE TAKING FULL RESPONSIBILITY FOR WHAT MAY HAPPEN.

Spoiler: Lowering temps: CPU undervolting

So today, I have managed to significantly lower temps, without sacrificing performance - by undervolting.
I have managed to lower my temps, from 83-86°C to 69-73°C, in load, which is pretty good. I have used stress test inside the intel tweaking app. Room temps were 26°C degrees at start and 28°C when I finished undervolting. Which means two things. First is, that there was hot like hell, because of ntb running at full speed for two hours and second is, that room temp rised and CPU's lowered so if the room maintained the same temp all the time, the result could be even better. In theory, it could even increase battery life a bit.

Now how to do it:
1) download, install Intel Extreme Tuning Utility and restart ntb
2) set ntb to sport mode and ensure, that the highest possible performance is available (to really stress test the CPU)
3) start the app and go to "stress Test" tab and run CPU test for at least 5 minutes (the longer, the better), record a temperature range for the last minute of the test
4) now go to "Manual Tuning" tab and click agree to enter
5) Go to "Core" sub-menu and adjust "Dynamic CPU voltage offset" to -[n] mV
6) Click Apply
7) Stress Test the CPU again for at least 5 minutes
8) If no BSoD appears and ntb continues to work, then increase the offset max. by -20 mV and stress test again
9) Repeat until BSoD appears, then decrease the offset to a value where system does not crash
10) Do at least 15 minutes (i advise you longer) Stress Test. To see of it survives. Then repeat the stress test with power saving mode on to see if there it is stable too. Also record temps again, to see the difference.

OPTIONAL: Go to "Cache" sub-menu and adjust "Processor Cache voltage offset" to -[n] mV
- i am not sure, if it helps for me there was 1°C difference, but it could be coincidence, that it just was running little cooler.

Little explanation of why i have choosen [n] instead of values. Well, every CPU is unique and can handle different stress. I suggest starting at -50 mV, increasing by -20 mV and then fine-tuning. I managed to maintain stability at -80mV for both Core and Cache. At -85mV it passed stress test, but died after a few minutes of idling. Had to lower the values to -75mV, as BSoD appeared, when playing Far Cry 3

It should be safe to edit these values, as when something would go wrong, system would restart and resets those values.

Spoiler: Lowering temps: iGPU undervolting

First, to make it clear. This is a guide for undervolting the integrated GPU, that is the power efficient low performance one, built into the CPU. To tweak dedicated GPU, you would probably need to mod VBIOS and that would be bit harder and definitely less save task to do.

To undervolt iGPU, you need XTU. Look at my "Lowering temps - undervolting" guide, if you dont't know how to install it and where to look there.

Now when the XTU is ready. Go to "Graphics" submenu and there set the "Processor graphics Voltage offset" to -[n] mV.

As in previous guide, i won't give you exact numbers, because of two reasons. First, your values will differ from my values. Second, because this depends on how you use this GPU. If you use it just as low power cost solution, when running on battery and browsing websites or watching videos, then you can set higher values, but expect, that you system will crash after starting something 3D heavy like games (mostly just games, even 3D modeling worked ok).

I got to -110 mV, to be able to watch 4K videos, but everytime i launcher a game, it crashed after a while. Think about what you want and keep it in mind, when you mess with those values.

Now, to the last important point. How do I know it works, you ask? Well, I tried a lot of graphics stress test, non of them worked. XTU passed without errors every time, OCCT never passed. So the easiest way is trying the most GPU intensive thing, you expect it to accomplish. If you want it just for watching videos/browsing the web, then try playing some videos. You want playing games on it? Ok, play a game. I still have not told you, how oyu find it out, right? Ok, here it is, look for artifacts - errors, like weird green squares in the video or other graphical glitches. Sometimes it may crash the graphics driver sometimes whole computer. Reboot and try less agressive values. Shortly, look for anything suspicious, which you didn't notice before, but don't become too paranoid, not everything means problem.

Spoiler: Extreme battery life

You have bought this notebook and you realized, that you battery life is not really enough? Well, there are a few things you can do about it.

First of all, look at my Lowering temps: CPU/iGPU undervolting. Don't be confused by the title, undervolting causes lower heat and lower battery consumption too. Everything important about it is written in those guides.

Second thing, you should do, is setting correctly up your windows. There is window power plan manager accessible by right clicking battery trey icon -> Power options -> choose a power plan / create new one -> click "change plan settings" -> and in the newly opened window click "change advanced power settings". From there, you can set many settings, most importantly the processor's max frequency. To conserve power set something between 0-5% to the maximum.

Windows 10 bonus:
If you have W10 installed, you can even crank up its power saving mode. It disables most of its useless services running in the background. You just have to open that W10 Settings UI, go to "system" and search for "Power saving" and there you can set anything you like.

If nothing helped, you could buy external power bank (no i am not insane, it really exists ), there are only few shops selling these things and even less of them actually work. One which i tested myself, that works is RAVpower 23 000. Its usage has a few limitations caused by our extremely power hungry specs, but when you fulfill few conditions, it can provide you many hours of power (more about it in a review written higher).

Spoiler: Assign a function to the SteelSeries key

If you have altered functions of the default app settings like me, you might found out, that your SteelSeries button (SSB) has stopped doing its job. Now you are wondering, what to do, to make it work again.

first, launch the Steel Series app.


You should see this overview with all you SS compatible hardware. Double click on the line with your ntb name.


It should open this window. First click on "CONFIGS" (1.), to open the side tab and then, from the tab, choose s profile (2.), which you want to set. Then click on the SSB (3.)


First, click the drop-down list (1.) and then choose the "Launch Configuration" (2.)


Now, you should see, under the drop-down list, name of your ntb (1.), click on it and all available SS profiles should appear (2.). Choose the correct one* and click "DONE" (3.)

*correct one is the next in a row - If you have two profiles, you just set the other one (not the one you are editing), If you have more of them, lets say A, B, C, you have to create a loop so to A set the B, to B set C and to C set A. This way it will always loop through all of them.

Feel free to ask anything. If i forgot to mention something, just write me and I will try to add it.

 

No, i need an adapter from mSata to M.2 so that I can use my existing M500 mSata SSD in the new GE62 which comes with M.2
The one you mentioned is M.2 to mSata adapter. I need the other way around (mSata -> M.2). Does such thing exist? Otherwise I will have to ditch my M500

 

Well I have just bought the ge62 with the 4720 HQ and 965m, I was worried about the temps I was getting: cpu 50° on idle. After I played heroes the storm a not very demanding game and my temps reached 80 81 at the cores and 60 at the gpu. I was scared to try a more demanding game, but after I ran the witcher 2 all enabled, even ubersampling, and the temps were slower lol. (Blizzard must optimize hots) So after reading you review I think my temps are normal, but it disturbs me to have that level of temperatures and also when gaming the notebook behaves like a radiator, lots of heat coming from the chassis. Yo have the same problem? I feel like I could cook a steak there ( left upper corner)
Sorry for bad English
Thank you
Edit;: I forgot to mention that my last computer was an asus g750, so maybe my cooling and noise expectations are a little high.

 

Haha steak yeah i have similar problem... when i place my finger to the gap between buttons it is so hot that it hurts.

Check back at my previous post containing the review. I have heavily edited it and added a guide to lower temps . Hope it will help you

 

Help please. Installing Windows 7 headache. Got everything to install (after changing BIOS to old boot method), except for graphics, both intel and nvidia. Nvidia tells me to install Intel first. But I can't seem to install the Intel Graphics card. The BIOS doesn't appears to give me any information regarding graphics cards.

Msi_ge62_2qd_apache_pro_intel_graphics by paul8720 posted Jul 5, 2015 at 5:54 PM

 

You will need to install Intel HD Graphics driver first.
Then Nvidia driver.

You can obtain Intel HD graphcis drivers from the link below.
https://downloadcenter.intel.com/do...HD-Graphics-Driver-for-Windows-7-8-8-1-64-bit

 

The main thing i make sure is not to leave it plugged in overnight and to shutdown instead of sleep mode

 

That's fine, however the EC (embedded controller) will drain the battery power still from 5 to 10% a day.

 

re: Windows 7 install issue with Intel graphics driver
Well, that was very helpful. Thank you! So, what in the world was I downloading from the official site when I get the Intel Graphics Card?
http://www.msi.com/support/nb/GE62-2QD-Apache-Pro.html#down-driver&Win7 64

 

Yup, now we are in summer here, but for the winter I wont need to turn on the heating . I have already undervolted the CPU but i didn't go very far, -50mV cores and cache, I'll try to squeeze it a little bit more today.
Anyway the GE62 is a monster of perfomance it outperfomrs my old asusg750 (770m) and it weights the half, i don't really like the hybrid power thing, and the fact that you have to open the notebook to remove the battery. But i guess you cant have everything haha

 

Don't worry about pushing the cache too much as the impact on power is pretty minor.

 

Today I have had to lower the values to -75mV. -80mV seemed to be OK, even when stress tested, but Far Cry 3 thought something else and BSoDed , but still aprox. 7 degrees lower heating is nice.

Does the cache even do anything? How much do you think is it save to lower it? I lowered it the same as Core. I am not aware, how the cache works so I am a little bit afraid of increasing it more then the core.

 

Separate voltage plains to help save power. Don't worry about differentials.

 

So should i push Cache as much as possible while maintaining stability even thought it will be more then Core's undervolt?
Also did you try undervolting HDGraphics? It would conserve battery a lot if the integrated graphics card used less power. I am worried a bit of not being able to boot with screwed up HDG settings. Someone somewhere suggested to lower it to -70mV for graphics. Is there any good GPU stress test, that would work with HDG?

EDIT: I have tried to undervolt HDG... i am at -130mV now and it seems to be just fine... only game which i can test it on is Just Cause 2. There are strip artefacts in main menu but they are there even when i set stock voltage. Sadly i didn't tested JC2 before undervolting so I don't know if these glitches have something to do lower voltage or just graphic incompatibiliy bcs the game returns DirectX error everytime i use HDG. There seemed to be a few of white dots around the screen in XTU, but it happened just once so can't say why it happened. Furmark stress test shows artefacts everytime no matter what voltage i set. Is there any reliable stress test for HDG?

 

How many degrees were you able to lower with the underclock on the CPU? Also undervolting integrated graphics isn't really going to do much in this case. The huge power draw is coming from the CPU.

 

Such a great laptop, the motherboard burst and leaked after 2 months

 

I usually find the iGPU clocks slightly higher with an undervolt but saves no power as it is TDP limited.

@Doesitworkful How do you mean burst and leak?

 

Has anyone been able to get Windows 7 installed onto a PCIe drive? I'm having a HELL of a time getting it on a Samsung SM951. The drive, and the fact that it's a PCIe 3.0 drive, works just fine. I can see it in BIOS, and can format the drive and everything.. but it keeps telling me that the drive cannot be selected as a boot drive (this is within the Windows 7 install). I've been trying to get it working all freaking weekend, and it's driving me insane! I hate windows 8 so terribly bad.

 

The motherboard might not support booting from PCIe. When the predecessor of the SM951, the XP941 came out Anandtech couldn't make it bootable on any PC at all http://www.anandtech.com/show/8006/samsung-ssd-xp941-review-the-pcie-era-is-here/3

 

It's not a native feature of the chipset, it requires some extra hardware to do it.

 

I see. So what do I need to do in order to get it to work? I mean, I have the option to choose the PCIe drive as the primary boot disk - It has no problem doing that...

 

Maybe it's nothing to do with PCIe then, have you deleted the previous boot partition in the HDD? I remember derping with my Win7 installation when I added my SSD, because I forgot to completely wipe the HDD partition first and so I couldn't have the SSD be the first boot device (even though that's where Windows was installed) or something like that. Or it might just be that Win7 simply doesn't support PCIe SSD as a bootable device, you might need 8, or maybe even 10.

 

We've had PCI-Express drives for a while now. I imagine it wouldn't be a big issue when form factor changes.. I've tried installing when the drive is the only one installed in the system.

 

But Sata Express/M.2 PCIe is very new right? Anyway, sorry I can't be of much help. Hopefully someone more knowledgeable will come around. You should also try asking in the SSD boards, maybe someone there can help.

 

So you were able to boot from your PCIe SSD successfully?
Because per MSI, that part isn't supported, so you could be the first one whose small step has been made if you got it to work.

 

It wouldn't turn on and i opened the back and there was liquid everywhere. I send it to msi rma and they said the motherboard burst and they have to order a new one. Been waiting for a month now.

 

Maybe a heatpipe issue, very rare but can happen. The motherboard itself has nothing that stores liquid.

 

Leaked??? Do you mean the battries burst and leaked? That should be covered under warranty...

Ohhh... Just found your other reply forgot about this laptop having heat pipes...
Never even considered the idea of one of those bursting...
Some capacitors(condenser for the old folks out there ) are liquid filled(electrolytic capacitors to be specific), but I do not think you would have one bit enough to do that!

 

That's odd , because I broke up one heat pipe before but found nothing in it though.

 

Interesting and unexplainable things happen when i play with values. XTU Stress Test is not enough to really stress the CPU, so i do my final tests by playing Far Cry 3, which is pretty intensive... when i started -75 was stable for 3 hours of gaming (then i stopped playing but without any problem), now it is not stable even with -70... so not sure what is happening but it seems like undervolting capabilities are going down.

Back to the question. with -80mV it was 7-10°C difference. -70 mV gain 6-7°C. When you add in that undervolted CPU does not reach its TDP power max., you gain better, more stable performance and lower temps. In Far Cry 3 from 90-91 to 84-85. When you reach 90 BD Prochot kicks in to throttle and lower temps, so do real temps could be even higher. I would expect 92-93. So theoretical improvement is even higher. Before, my battery lost 26-27% per TV show episode. Now it is just 22%, so it really can conserve some juice.

Talking about watts. With -80, package drains 39-40w, with -65, around 40-41. Without undervolting full 47w, so the improvement is very real.

I will experiment more with those values to gain stable full power performance with lower temps and consumption (hopefuly without breaking something or corrupting data)

 

I am considering buying the Pro 055 for my work laptop (some gaming and VM usage) but I am curious if anyone has tested it with Win 10 yet? Anyone running it that can confirm everything works correctly? I have a Lenovo W530 and the webcam doesn't work with Win 8.1 and I really don't want to go through that again.

 

I am not in the Windows Insider program, but people who are, said, that every version was completely different. That means, nobody knows, what will or won't work, until they finally release it. W10 will have DX12, which should be a little revolutionary, as they should boost performance greatly, but expect them to work with earlier DX versions, same as previous Windows did. Virtual Machine (If i understood your shortcut correctly) support was baked into the system since W7, i doubt they will change it. At least some of many W10 versions certainly will. Your camera probably required drivers. Sometimes system cannot install them, bcs it cannot identify them. Try searching Device manager for that camera's hardware. If it is there, then you should manually install drivers, if not something might have broken.

 

Thanks for the reply, I prefer my hardware to run as cool as possible while using as little power as possible so this stuff is important. For CPU benchmarks I find that intel burn test does a really good job at a quick stable temporary test. Not very realistic like most linpack based tests but it's alright.

Even with that undervolt, temps run a bit high. Might consider underclocking a bit to save some extra temps (or just disable turbo tech) since the broadwell quadcore is already really powerful and will never bottleneck the GPU. My current laptop burns at 100C instantly into gaming and the surface temperatures reach over 70C-80C making it pretty much unusable. Thanks HP! I even replaced the fans, heatsinks, reapplied past, and nothing (cheap parts on ebay). It's an old laptop though.

Nonetheless, I read that surface temps don't surpass 50C so I'm quite excited to pick one of these up. Also Prostar has a pretty awesome deal where they discount $80 if you get an upgrade, to which I just add an m.2 ssd and bam, lower price than competitors + ssd. comes to ~$1050. A shout out to anyone looking at the best place to pick up one of these!

Good luck on future benching

 

You are welcome. Not sure if the surface surpass 50°C but it hurts to fingers when i touch the plastic net between buttons. With my current voltage: Core -65, Cache -60, Graphics -80. CPU max temps are 85 in maximum stress. Battery life is longer too. About 16% longer battery life

 

Pretty excited. I get to the join the MSI GE62 party in about 1.5 weeks when i get my laptop from XoticPc. Really excited because this is my first MSI laptop and my first gaming laptop. I'm praying everything goes alright.

 

Congrats on your purchase, don't forget to register your product within 30 days of purchase to activate accidental warranty from MSI. Additionally, be sure to create recovery discs in case you will need to restore the OS.
If you have any questions with your machine, feel free to bring them up here in the forum and everyone will be able to assist you.