MSI GE63VR / GE73VR Raider Laptops

So subtracting all the ones that don't work, leaving the ones that do, those work ok?

Math checks out

 

I fix it for yoo

I will always do. But if yoo have never done it before... Let those who handle it... Fix it like @Donald@HIDevolution


For me and others who have use LM long time, we fix it by us self. With very good results!! No ordinary thermal paste out there can handle and cool down almost 132W current through the processor in a laptop.

@Seferio See and learn ↑↑↑!!

Yees, A good advice.

 

really that IC diamond is better than grizzly kryonout ? did you have some example or data?

i don't want using LM, because i never use it before and i dont want to break anything on the motherboard due to wrong aplication, i m just using reguler paste like grizzly kryonout, gelid GC Extreame or arctic mx 4, so these 3 paste was bad compre to IC diamond ?

 

I posted this a while back, some recent reviews of paste. MX4 is ok, but dries out with laptop's being moved around a lot, but that's likely due to application - letting edges show and wick moisture out, with Gelid and Grizzly some of the best - but Grizzly has a 24 hour curing time like AS5 so don't panic at first measurements, let it run for a day before getting excited.

I'll see if I can dig up that post with the reviews...here's the images to check out until then:



Of all the non-conductive pastes I've used, Noctua NT-H1 has been at the top the longest, and still running strong on PC's 7-10+ years in service.

What's The Best Thermal Paste? | Thermal Paste Comparison 2017


What is The Best Thermal Paste 2017? – Thermal Paste Comparison
https://play3r.net/reviews/cooling/...son-2017-what-is-the-best-thermal-paste-2017/

"Following on from our previous ‘Which is the best thermal paste’ article and testing we did back in 2015, I decided to create another; this time with a current-gen Intel Core i7-7700K processor and with a couple more thermal pastes added into the mix.

Thermal paste is a very important ‘component’ for ensuring efficient and optimal thermal conductivity between your heat sink and your processor…but why?

Here are some common questions along with answers to those questions to further understand why thermal paste is important..."

Your laptop will likely not hit 7700K OC temps, so dropping down from conductive (shorts electronics if drizzled over them, and melts aluminum it touches) to non-conductive pastes won't matter as much, and most stock paste is just fine after undervolting.

It's best to avoid pulling apart expensive electronics, once you do you will waste much of your life continuing to repeat doing it - for nothing - no real performance improvement that makes a difference in your gaming life.

If you insist on re-pasting, there's likely no one that's going to talk you out of it, but if you are like most people - trying to find a good excuse to avoid wasting life on pursuits not of interest, this is it:

You don't need to do a re-paste yourself, let your vendor do it, or return a thermal throttling laptop for replacement or refund - temperatures should be correct out of the box, and if they aren't then return or RMA.

If you take on the responsibility to re-paste it yourself, you might be voiding your warranty and losing the value of future RMA work - when parts really fail - all for a couple of degree's better temps that won't improve gaming FPS but a smidgen.

 

yeah i forgot to mention that NT H1, i saw ppl on youtube using it on GS43VR skylake and get 9 degree drop on the CPU compare to the stock paste is very hot at underload

the durability on the noctua nt h1 was good rather than grizzly kryonaut ? i mean we don't need to do some re-pasting again in short period of time right ?

 

I put a proper post with more info regarding LM here + here

None here have said ICD is better than Kryonaut. Re-read my previous post #389

" IC Diamond handle uneven heatsink quality in a better way than most other thermal paste."

A few recommendations for Thermal Paste - here on NBR Forum.

If yoo look in your own posted pict of the reviews above... You can clearly see Coollaboratory Liquid Copper paste is on 3rd place... Only 1C degrees worse results than Liquid Metal.
For the records, bruh..I'm sure you will find out that we already have tested this Coollaboratory Copper Paste. You will find the posts about the final results in the forum. It's tested and it's pure Junk on laptop's worse hardware...

I have stopped looking on reviews for thermal paste done on test bench or the better desktop cooling (You will different results as well depending on what reviewer who have done the tests also). You can not transfer exactly the same temp result done on the tests for laptop's much worse Heatsink/heatsink pressure and weaker fans. This is tried time after time. With big failure!!

 

Grizzly is only a couple of years old, too early to tell.

Either one is fine, if you want "new" get Grizzly, if you want tried and true get NT-H1, either one is fine, it looks like under load Grizzly was 1C better - tough to tell if that's enough to make a difference.

Try undervolting first. -100mV to start.

Do a before / after prime95 small fft test - no longer than 15 minutes, 5-10 minutes is enough, and let it cool down completely between tests - give it 15-30 minutes or until it reaches ambient low.

You should get a 10c drop in CPU load temperatures, which should be enough to drop CPU temp well under thermal throttling.

Obviating the need for re-pasting

 

Yeah, well, I've seen just about every paste mentioned here as a complete failure except for LM, so I look askance at any review for TIM here, and look elsewhere for independent tests.

For the longest time NBR people were crapping on Grizzly, all because they didn't follow application instructions and didn't notice the notice to wait 24 hours of run time to let the paste cure. For months, and months, now it's normalized and enough independent reviews have dispelled the erroneous consensus here.

Collaboratory makes and sells Copper TIM with pride and success with many people successfully making it work, including that review, so I'd go by what they have to say

Even der8auer gave this review a positive comment:

der8auer 6 months ago
Good stuff mate!

What's The Best Thermal Paste? | Thermal Paste Comparison 2017

 

donald HID evolution said that on previous page, maybe he never using it. i never test myself IC diamond, that's why im asking, my trial error until now i m still using gelid extreame or kryonout, maybe i m looking forward to test that NT H1 from noctua myself..

how about that liquid copper ? is it garbage ?

 

See post for Coolaboratory Copper Paste. As you can see, the Coollaboratory Copper Paste doesn't meet the expectations as yoo can see in the picture posted above.

For the records... Grizzly Kryonaut is in the recommendations list for Thermal Paste - here on NBR Forum

See post above FYI I have tested NT-H1 on my oc'd Haswell i7-4930mx in my AW 17. All know haswell was Hot. Yeah, with failure. AW17 ain't a desktop!! Gelid Extreme - Grizzly Kryonaut is a safe choice. And a much better choice on laptop hardware than NT-H1.

 

When the people that don't manage to get it to work call it garbage, and many others do get it to work - with great results, I go with the techniques recommended by the people that got it to work, not the ones that don't

It's conductive, so I don't recommend it, in the review I posted of 26 TIM's it came in 3rd, with close but not best performance against CLU and CL Pro, and they are conductive too. So no to all of that.

The next range, non-conductive TIM's, is close enough to use for the same performance. Realistic performance, not monster truck performance.

Remember, there is 0 FPS difference between CLU/P and top non-conductive TIM's

Stick with what doesn't destroy electronics, non-conductive TIM's there's no practical reason to do anything more extreme.

Jump off a cliff face first into a damp wash cloth if you want Extreme, but don't use conductive thermal pastes

 

We don't record stock paste results.

These are after Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra on CPU - IC Diamond on GPU, and after we fix their pads, and uneven seating of the heat sinks. AIDA64, Gaming and Benchmarking...Maximum temps:
Alienware 17 w/ Intel® Core™ i7-7700HQ & nVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080 - CPU = 81C, GPU 76C
Alienware 17 w/ Intel® Core™ i7-7820HK & nVIDIA GeForce GTX 1070 - CPU = 84C, GPU 73C

 

And here are my temps after gaming GTA V for 30 mins:



The game also froze up once during this play time, for 5 seconds, then it went back to normal.. Note that I'm already using an elevated laptop stand in which I drilled holes to allow maximum airflow...

What should I do guys? Laptop is 3 weeks old (stock from MSI), gets temps of 98 degrees while gaming.. for 30 mins! The occasional freeze is also really annoying (sometimes it won't happen for a few days, I'm guessing it's connected with the temp issue?)

Please some advice..

 

Did you undervolt your CPU yet? It doesn't look like it. Doing that should drop your top CPU load temps down 10c +- a few degree's.

Start at -100mV and work down in -5mV steps until you crash, then back off +10mV and you should be stable at load / idle. If you crash at idle, adjust another +10mV.

Range for Kabylake has been -100mV to -220mV, with the lower stable voltage giving even better thermal reduction.

After you think you are stable then run the GTA V test again

 

16C between coldest vs. hottest core

 

Do you want to help him? If so then please do, otherwise let me handle it for now, ok? Distracting him and others isn't helping.

Of course I noticed the differentials, but I need to know the temperature drop and final temps after best undervolt.

If the 7700HQ that's locked and unable to OC is no longer thermal throttling after undervolt, he doesn't need to get into the whole mess of re-pasting and re-padding.

Please be patient

 

I'll be quiet. Sorry I mentioned it. The path is yours.

 

Thanks, I know it's exciting, it's tough to resist bringing out both barrels of fixes right away, but over time I've found new users are fragile.

Ya gotta have patience and start slowly...or...

 

Thank you kindly for your reply!
I'm sorry but I've never undervolted before. How should I do this? Some sort of software? Are their any risks of bricking the laptop?

 

another great review, i think that GPU temperature was very good out of the box, the problem was the CPU. sick intel LOL

 

It's not a big elaborate effort, basically you are changing one setting for your CPU voltage - the CPU voltage offset - and adding a negative offset of say -100mV to start, in the Intel Extreme Tuning Utility.

Download here: https://downloadcenter.intel.com/download/24075/Intel-Extreme-Tuning-Utility-Intel-XTU-

To avoid issues I run the install As Administrator due to bugs long ago, but still it's not a bad thing to do anyway even now.

When you run it, you only need to (or can) change the CPU Core voltage offset, try -100mV to start (ignore the other in Yellow settings, it's for a different CPU). Your 7700HQ XTU layout will be different, so hunt down the Core Voltage Offset.

Then Apply it, and run with it like that while testing gaming, and benchmarks.

Make sure when testing for undervolt stability you have all important work closed and don't do important work while at new settings until you are certain they are stable.

There is a Default Profile in XTU to load and Apply that you can set anytime to get back to a stable default setting. Then you can do important work safely.

The XTU internal Benchmark and Stress test are good to run a couple of times to check initial stability, but they aren't stressful enough to completely validate a new setting.

You can use a CPU stress test like Prime95 or OCCT or even just gaming, but if / when you crash, don't forget to setup a disk check at boot time to verify your C drive - lots of crashes won't do anything to the disk but occasionally you will interrupt a write and then the disk needs to repair itself.

Right click on the C drive icon, select Properties, then Tools tab, then Check disk, and schedule a disk check at next boot - you can't fix / verify the C drive when booted. Just be sure to run this every few crashes, or every crash

Increment the undervolt up -5mV at a time until your testing crashes - BSOD or unstable behavior - and then back off the undervolt +10mV and test again.

After you are stable at load, then you need to test at idle. Simply let the laptop sit idle and running (no movie watching! ), and if you are stable without crash for a couple of hours you are good. If you crash at idle, reduce the undervolt another +10mV (or +5mV, if you want to get closest maximum undervolt ) and test idle stable again.

Along the way, if you think the value you have for undervolt is stable, then go ahead and save that setting in XTU as a Profile. Go into XTU and click Save and it will ask for a name, then it will load that Named profile every time you boot.

Make sure that you have a stable value to save before saving it to run at every boot time

Later, after you are stable and XTU is loading the undervolt value every boot, and you have a crash for another reason - it happens, heck it's Windows - XTU won't load the Profile at the next boot, because it doesn't know whether it caused the crash or not, so you have to go back in to XTU, select the Named profile you want again, and Apply it. Then XTU will keep loading that Named Profile again at boot, until you crash in the future.

It sounds harder than it is, it's really very easy to do.

There are video's on how to do it in Youtube, here is one - kinda long, but it looks basically ok. The importance of it is that it will show you the layout of XTU with your 7700HQ CPU.

Undervolt that laptop CPU with intel XTU!

 

Thank you for that detailed tutorial.
I installed XTU and tried some things:

• -0.175: freeze and crash
• -0.165: freeze and crash
• -0.155: BSOD
• -0.145: Seems to be okay, I also stress tested the CPU for a few mins with XTU, so far so good. The only thing I've noticed now is that XTU is suddenly very laggy (wasn't before) takes a while to respond etc.. Besides that I'm gonna keep it at this value and do my normal work (at work right now)
  Unfortunately I can't test GTA V at work so I'll have to wait until tonight. I've applied the undervolt but have not saved it yet, first I want to game GTA V for at least an hour so I'm sure the value is okay.

Thanks again!

 

Did you mean -145mV? You wrote -045mV...if it is -45mV I think you can find a stable point between there and -155mV to give you more thermal relief.

Please come back and post your tuning results

 

Yeah I meant -145mV, edited now.
What do you mean with post my tuning results?

I will reply back tonight after GTA V testing.

 

Yes, that. When you find a best stable undervolt, probably still a bit less than -145mV, you are still early in testing, then run GTA V again and post your gaming session temps again.

You might want to try hwinfo64, it gives a bit more info, and you can do logging with it - defaults to saving all values monitored every 2 seconds - then you can see the temperature peaks reached besides just the single max value.

Quite often the max value is rarely reached over the whole test run and it's good to see that, instead of worrying about that 1 highest temp monitored.

hwinfo64
https://www.hwinfo.com/download.php

 

Cheers, installed that program. Do I need to enable logging or is it on by default?

 

Yes, click it on via the button at the bottom of the monitor dialog while running, there is also a reset button that I use to refresh the readings when I am about to start a run before turning on logging.

There is also a GenericLogViewer addon that you can download from here (and other tools):
https://www.hwinfo.com/addons.php

 

If anyone has any questions about this

I'm using a cooler master notepal U3 Plus. It's nothing fancy or anything but it works well and you can manually place the fans on a position you want. I put mine two in the middle and one above in the middle for the ge73vr.

 

Thanks again. I'm logging now through the sensors menu:



Will post back tonight after the GTA V test.

 

Great you found the "thermal throttling" readings

You can use the reset button to clear those.

There are laptops that won't ramp up the fans fast enough to stop thermal throttling, but once the fans are ramped up they cool the CPU below the thermal throttling point, so if you reset the hwinfo64 readings you will see no more thermal throttling triggers occuring.

Have fun

 

Thanks again for all your help, am curious about the GTA V test tonight!

 

go test it bro LOL, we want to see the result soon hahaha

 

Does anybody have the GE73VR Raider- 003? Could you post the exact display panel OEM model?

 

Thanks @hmscott for posting undervolting instructions; I've never done it before either. Im close to pulling the trigger on a GE63vr from HIDEvolution.com, but the CPU temps were worrying me a bit. Does performance suffers if you undervolt a CPU?

 

Sadly I just got a BSOD, I got it after 6 hours though. (never had them before undervolting)
Not sure if it's any use, but here's the HWinfo64 log, up until the BSOD, yet I can't seem to find anything weird? https://www.mediafire.com/file/hace007tb053nc7/log temps after undervolt 0.145.CSV

So I will be "lowering" the undervolt from -0.145 to -0135 and try again..

 

Haven't replied to this thread for a while since i was too busy enjoying my ge73vr hehe. I see most of the discussion is about the temps, even for me its a big deal. I get about maximum 78c GPU temps out of the box. This is while running games like witcher3 and tomb raider on max where the gpu usage goes to 99%.
The CPU is another story it can go to about 85c during heavy load in witcher3 and the wasd area gets quite warm. Then after undervolting the CPU temp is fixed almost at 75c, so great. Took me a while be4 i stopped getting crashes, at first i undervolted to -0.180mv which surprised me, but after many crashes i stuck to -0.140 ,before got lots of crashes in forza horzn 3(very cpu intensive). -0.140 is still yet to crash after 5 days.
Surface temps is very manageable esp if ur in an air conditioned room.
Other Things i like about the laptop:
*Width of laptop is normal but depth is very small, (i thought it was an 15inch when i got it first lol)very portable. Bezels are quite thin even the bottom.
*Custom Keyboard rgb is nice but i stick to presets.
*That 120hz screen ,mmm. So nice. I think everyone must prioritize 120hz over gsync.
I can get 120fps on many titles but not all(wit3, RoTR, dishnd2). But 60 is fine. Its just that once you try 120 on a game u nvr go back. So easy solu is dont try 120 if you have to sacrifice graphics quality.
I think i wrote too many stuf alredy,hehe sry for any grammatical errors.

 

I am currently at -130mv. No crashes. I undervolted my cpu 6 days back.

 

whats your model btw?

 

Proper undervolting will not impact your performance.

 

Wait.... is there Optimus on board in GE line???

 

Yes there is, hence why it doesn't have G-Sync (the two don't play nice with each other)

 

At anyone seeking to buy an msi GE63vr/73vr or any other laptop.

I have seen a lot of people in this forum talking about undervolting and that it decreases your temps significantly, and I just wanna make sure that you guys know that undervolting has its (dis)advantages.

Yes, you are getting lower temps as you reduce the power usage, but keep in mind that in theory you are making your processor slower of worse.

You are better of with a cooling pad (definitly the case with the Ge63/73vr (open underneath) than actually undervolting your laptop.

I use a cooling pad myself and I haven''t gotten any higher temps than 63 degrees under very heavy load.

Cheers

 

Can you link a product page for what you use?

 

Define "very heavy load"

 

Anyone want to comment on this? @Mr. Fox @hmscott @Rage Set @TBoneSan @bloodhawk @Papusan @ThatOldGuy @Falkentyne

 

Yees Sir, I can... See my older post here.
A short excerpt from my mentioned post... "I have take of my time, google numbers for yoo..."6700hq and power consumtion in benchmarks" The more he shrink on the voltage, the worse became the score."

If Yoo shrink the voltage all too much aka massive undervolt, you will in the end reach stability issues and the performance may suffer (right before freezes). But You have to be on the Voltage edge before you can see the processor start run a notch slower in benchmarks.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-NotePal-PLUS-Performance/dp/B00ED3WMTC

That's the cooling pad I use.

Cheers

 

That is true indeed, I just want to make sure people know this before they start undervolting. Some people think undervolting is without any disadvantages or offers an easy solution for temp problems, but when they find out their comp crashes because they undervolted to much they sometimes panic

Cheers

 

On my F5, I have TS profiles for overclocks of 4.9 and 5.0. For work, I have a profile for 4.6 that is undervolted and I suffer no performance loss whatsoever. Lowering your voltage for stock speeds can help with temps and unless you go too far with your undervolt, you are not making your processor slower/worse.

This is quite the opposite of OC'ing. You want to give your CPU the optimum voltage per the clock you are using, which can be more than Intel's factory voltage.

 

No performance loss, you are tuning for the optimal voltage to run at that particular multiplier / frequency - the same CPU performance settings.

Undervolting is needed, and so primary to setting up a new laptop due to the CPU overvolt setting in the BIOS for the CPU voltage. It's set high to be stable on all CPU's, but most CPU's don't need that much voltage to function so the extra voltage is burned off as heat.

You undervolt for stable 100% load operation and then for a stable 0% idle operation. Save that value in the Intel Extreme Tuning Utility, and so at each boot it sets the undervolt and the CPU runs cooler.