*The Offical MSI GX60 Owners Lounge*

Max is 1600MHz

AMD A10-Series A10-4600M - AM4600DEC44HJ

 

Sorry, I noticed the cpu part numbers is the same on both pages we posted. AM4600DEC44HJ On the AMD page I posted, it says "Memory Interface DDR3-1866"
Am I misreading this?

I did see your page posted says 1600mhz.

 

It could be like the FX cpus, where they say they are rated for 1866, but thats only in single channel mode. In dual channel they are only rated at 1600. The trinity could be the same. My FX-6300 wont even POST if I set it to run at 1866 in dual channel, with 2133 rated RAM.

 

Where are you fine gents getting this modded BIOS from? I *could* Google I suppose, but the BIOS is the one thing I like not taking chances with

 

I have the feeling that my CPU underperforms. If I play BF3 I get FPS like 15-20. Thats with settings on high no AA or AF on Full HD. Have latest beta drivers 12.11+ CPS2. GPU load is not max, but CPU is, with a locked turbo on 2700mhz. I did some benchmarks and I think is does underperforms if I compare it with other results on the internet. What do you guys think?
And is it possible that a CPU underperforms?


Cinbench R10 64
Single CPU 2728
Multiple CPU 7358

Cinbench R11.5 64
Rendering 1.87pts
OpenGL 38.40

 

Actually you can kill adapters, I have done so with a 180W brick and a 680M running at 1080mhz and a 3740qm at 3.9ghz.

It's in the MSI subforum on tech inferno, there are no significant options to enhance performance. As I said, setting 1866mhz just makes the memory clock bounce around a lot and it reduces performance.

 

The Richland APUs, or maybe known as Trinity 2.0 may have 1866MHz dual channel memory controller, probably how its iGPU got 20-40% gains. So you may need that 1866 setting if they are drop in replacement APUs.

 

Not that I am saying you are wrong, but why then does a 5V 200mW phone charger charge my phone significantly slower than a 5V 500mW charger? And why does my ThinkPad (I have seen dells do this as well) warn me when I am using a 65W power supply that the power adapter can not supply enough power to run the system? If the adapter cannot supply more than it is rated, and it is rated at a certain amount, is it unreasonable to expect said adapter can run at it's rated power 24/7? These are just my personal experiences, but it makes me wonder

 

Wooo... Now I have to go buy 1866 RAM unless I can overclock the RAM I have now in the BIOS since it is 1600. The RAM will do it, it's G.Skill. Let us wildly speculate! haha

 

Hi guys, I REALLY would like some help if possible. PSCheck seems to be a memory leak when running in windows 8 and i dont have access to Win 7. can anybody please try to help? any response would be appreciated.

 

Many, many moons ago, I managed to melt a 2" hole through the middle of three consecutive laptops, all because they apparently managed to draw too much power and then die spectacularly (there's really nothing like getting the proverbial waft of smoke coming up through your keyboard). The power brick didn't show any problems, and I used it with another laptop for many years after those ones died. Going from my own anecdotal experience, I would have to agree with Sublime that it's a coincidence that the brick died while ensuring a steady clock on the core (from what I can tell it's not even an overclock?).

It could be, of course, that the brick was in a position that the requirement to supply a specific level of power caused it to die from overheating etc, or that it was a poorly made one. I mean, if that were true, then you'd find people killing off their PSUs when overclocking on desktops, instead of motherboards/CPUs/GPUs dying left, right and centre. Never seen, or heard of, a PSU die from OC'ing, and I see no reason why a laptop power brick would either given it essentially fulfills the same function.

Of course, I could be wrong. I'm not all knowing

 

I got a question for everyone that owns the gx60

My left "Ctrl" key doesn't feel right.. I have a tendency press the left "Ctrl" key on the bottom left corner of it, but when I do, the left side of the key sinks down, and I don't feel the "click" like other keys, and it SOMETIMES register sometime not when I press it that way. anyone having this problem?

 

Hi, so I've been looking at the GX60 for a month or so, and checking in on this thread to see the general opinions. As far as gaming, I'm mostly looking to be able to play Guild Wars II right now. Notebookcheck calls out the laptop on GWII specifically (saying it's nearly unplayable), but I saw some owners on this thread were able to get decent framerates. Based on the dates, I assume that was also with older drivers...I was hoping that someone running the new drivers might be able to tell me how the game plays for them now.

Also, if anyone has any other thoughts on machines they considered instead of the GX60 (Y580, Asus G55VW, ??) I'd be curious. One odd requirement I have is that the laptop I get must be available on Sears or Kmart (mostly the same products) because I'm putting a ton of credit card points toward the purchase and they give me the best bang for the point by a wide margin. The GX60 just became order-able on those sites, so I can pull the trigger if I want to commit to it.
Thanks!

 

Unfortunately I'm not much help on your main question other than people are playing it, though at times it dips fairly low (in the 20s) for framerates - but GWII from what I'm hearing is a backbreaker for even gaming desktops. The thing to ask people to try is WvW with PSCheck locking the processor at 2.7GHz.

I considered the Asus RoG G55VW however with a middle of the road i7 and only a GT660M for $100 more, it doesn't have anywhere near the power of the GX60. I considered other MSI machines (briefly) but was more interested in the Republic of Gamers due to branding (shallow I know, but at least I'm honest). The machine in my sig cost $1198.96 from Gentech (plus $69.98 for the RAM) and I have an extra empty hard drive bay for an SSD when I get around to upgrading.

I'd recommend the GX60 over anything else short of a $1600+ machine with a i7/7970M. You *will not* get any better framerates out of anything short of a machine with a 7970M/680M, so spending $1500 on a i7/GTX675MX is still going to be a performance loss.

 

What kind of BF3 frame rates are y'all getting? I saw only one YouTube video that was not so good like in the 20's. it would seem it should be much higher.

 

Assuming the brick has protection and it kicks in you will be fine, but I don't have to prove what happens when you draw too much power from a power supply and the protection fails. It's not something I would rely on either.

 

https://twitter.com/CatalystCreator

Sure, JUST WHEN I GET COMFY... AMD is releasing the Catalyst 13.1 WHQL drivers tomorrow

And I'll be one of the first jettisoning the 12.12 drivers for it hopefully I can find another all in one driver pack

 

Great, crossing my fingers for one of those 20% improvment leaps with drivers

 

My face when I read your post about AMD releasing 13.1 WHQL driver:

 

Once again, I don't want to be a bother, but even a reply with "No. PSCheck will not work on Windows 8. Ever." would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance guys.

 

Yah I would like to know this as well...


On other note, I would like someone to explain to me the differences between Catalyst, Enduro.. Are they two completely different thing? Or does Catalyst INCLUDES Enduro??

Or am I suppose to install BOTH?

Thank you all in advance~

 

Ok, I pulled the trigger...at least now I have someone to blame other than myself if I can't play spider solitaire without the machine locking up ;-). Thanks!

Next, I'm going to have to review the SSD install instructions...

 

I'm not sure of any specific instruction set, fresh install is going to be best: "obtain" a windows disk of your preferred flavor and get ahold of your serial (windows 8 should have this stored in the BIOS if I understand correctly - someone please correct me), and download all drivers before touching it. Download everything from MSI's site for your OS of choice, then download the latest AMD drivers for the AMD chipset and Radeon card. Save these to a thumbdrive.

Pop your bottom panel off, swap in your new SSD (removing the drive in there already), install windows as you would, install drivers, then place the old drive into the other HDD bay and you're good to go. You can copy any data off the old drive you need and format the old drive as you see fit.

Most of the "hard" work is in the prep. FYI Windows 7 64 bit runs flawlessly on this machine, MSI has full driver support and it performs like a champ. The only thing that doesn't have a driver is the wireless "switch" on the little touch panel by the power button, and this is allegedly a windows 8 only feature - you can still switch wifi with the FN hotkeys.

If you are keeping 8 and are willing to trade off the cleanliness of a fresh install for the ease of using recovery, go to target or wherever and buy yourself a 10 pack of DVD-Rs and burn your recovery, swap hard drives, restore, plug in original hard drive, format as you see fit. Or call MSI and claim the device won't boot due to winload.efi corruption and you need a free set of restore discs

EDIT: a couple things to note - if you switch to windows 7, your USB 3.0 slots will *not* work until you install drivers, make sure to use the right-hand slot as it is USB2.0 if you are using drivers off the thumbdrive (this screwed with me to no end until I figured it out). Burning to a DVD is a better option if available.

 

Yes, the product key for Windows 8 is stored inside of the BIOS, I didn't have to input any key to activate my computer when I reinstalled it.


Sublime, do you mind helping me out with my question? =[ 2 posts up

 

Sorry, I missed it

Enduro is the name for the technology behind the tech allowing dynamic switchable graphics, more a codename than a specific piece of soft/hardware. Catalyst includes support for Enduro, there's no separate install (I and a lot of people wish, then we could have avoided all together the issues with enduro in prior drivers).

 

ahhhhh so when we install catalyst it already includes enduro?

thank you for the explanation!

 

That is correct.

 

It seems you dont need PSCheck to lock your CPU to 2700 Mhz. When I choose ''High performance'' from the power options, and I look at CPU-Z, then it is locked at 2700 Mhz.

 

This would be fantastic if true. I'm not keen on having to run programs in the background constantly (as I usually forgot to start them up!). I'm hoping I have my GX60 by the middle of next week, and to start messing around with it ASAP

 

AMD Catalyst 13.1 WHQL Download

 

AMD 12.11 Beta Drivers 13.2 Beta Leak <--

 

im trying it now. the 13.1 WHQL wasn't installing right. It said the hardware wasn't detected basically.

 

I got the 13.1 installed.

Ran 3dmark11 P mode, I noticed that the graphic score, scored noticeably lower than the 12.12 driver.

I ran the test with 12.12 driver twice, and with 13.1 driver 3 times, all test done with 13.1 driver scored a lower graphic score than 12.12.

I will reinstall 12.12 and run the test again.

 

Can anyone tell me what the dimensions are like for the HDD bays in the GX60? I want to get a SSD to throw in there, but I'm worried about bay dimensions - what size drives can it take?

I'm looking at the OCZ Vertex 4, for instance, but at 9.3mm high I'm not positive that it will fit in the bay...

 

The OCZ vertex 4 will fit for sure, you just have to use the bracket included with your GX60.

I have the vertex 4 in my gx60 right now.

 

Fantastic, thanks Looking forward to replacing my desktop with this as my primary machine, not to mention drawing a lot less power!

 

wow something weird happened.....

So stupid me deleted the 12.12 driver installer, so I redownload it from AMD Embedded GPU and APU Driver for Windows Vista/7/Win 8 (Windows 8 version)

It downloaded fine, but when I try to unzip it, it tells me that few of the file in there are corrupted ... I guess no 12.12 driver for me... =[


Edit: BTW anyone else still having nonadjustable brightness on Win8? are they ever going to fix it? The thing is my brightness is not stuck on MAX, it's a little below max, how I know this is that when I uninstall catalyst my brightness suddenly became soooooooo bright! After I install the new catalyst it became a bit dimmer again.... =[

just wondering if they are ever going to address this issue... also does this ONLY happen to us? (MSI users) or does it apply to all win8 users?

 

Bro. Use the 13.1 Drivers, the 13.2 are not ready yet, my bad. However, Im using the 13,1 drivers and they fixed the brightness issue fantastically plus enduro works great. Dl it. Now. What are you still doing here?. lol

 

Wait what do you mean they fixed the brightness issue?? I AM using the 13.1 and my brightness still doesn't work. Enduro been working since 12.12 that I've been using.

btw, when I say it works great, I mean that it automatically switch my graphic card. Not sure what else is enduro good for other than switching graphics...

But I would really like some inputs on the brightness issue, it would be nice if you can tell me how it is solved for you.

BTW I'm on >>windows 8<<

 

I have the same problem. Installed 13.1 and still have the brightness issue. Btw there is an ati catalyst and an ati catalyst mobility. Is there any difference cause i normally just install the non mobility and it always works

 

Since I switched to Windows 7 64 I have not had the brightness issues.With Drivers 13.1 World of Warcraft Mist of Panada I'm getting about 10-15fps more with everything at ultra settings in the main cities!

 

Glad to hear that it gives improvement on WOW, I actually see better GPU utilization in Far Cry3 and BF3.

And I am well aware that the brightness feature is fixed on WIN7, I am curious what windows is PhantomMegaman using tho, since he says it is fixed for him.

 

Yeah the new 13.1 drivers have fixed a bunch of stuff, I also seem to have lost the brightness issue although it was only an issue on battery power in Windows 7 x64 Pro.

I have a question for some people, is anyone getting "XXXXXXXXX application has stopped working" pop-ups? I've been getting them for Thunderbird, media player classic HD, and sometimes other random programs. Like just now when I unplugged to check brightness issues MMdriver.exe stopped working.

I just re-installed windows to see if maybe it was a problem, I used a different ISO and version and its still happening. Also ZERO anti virus installed atm.


FYI There are also updates to our Chipest drivers with this update to let everyone know.

 

Usually that points to not quite stable ram, have you tried running with just one stick installed?

 

I was thinking that also, but I've ran countless Ram, CPU and Video card test and everything comes up just fine. You know what though I got some ram in my GX740 ill swap them out and see what happens.

Cheers!

Not to mention all my programs and games run flawlessly, they just have the "Stopped Running" after I've closed them.

 

Just let Memtest86+ run for almost 7 hours with 3 passes and no errors, I really doubt it to be the ram. Although if the problem continues ill take your advice and try with 1 stick of ram and perhaps swapping them out entirely.

Cheers!

BTW Loving these new 13.1 Drivers not much improvement on the 7970m but my 7660G has improved about 25-50% average for most games.

 

I did a completely complete clean install of the mobility drivers using driver fusion and ccleaner (in safe mode). Then, i booted up Win8 and installed the mobility 13.1 drivers. It gave me a driver package not detected no hardware identifier error, but once I rebooted everything seems to be working fine, including the brightness issue FINALLY. Lol. Hope that clears it up for you guys, and to answer your question directly, I am running Win8 64 bit.

 

Hmmm, it still doesn't work. =\ anyone else having any luck with it beside phantom?

 

I really wish I could be of more help, all I can say is that I used a download from guru3D i think.I used driver fusion and ccleaner in safe mode to clean everything i could. :/ Wish I knew more about this stuff bro.

 

Should I RMA it..... >.<?

It doesn't looks like it "cracked" I can use some force and temporary make them close up, but it doesn't close up smoothly, like one piece is on top of other kind of thing.....

what should i do.... >.>?